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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/12/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    A copy of 6th century English archaeological finds, staring from ore. The finished blade. Heterogeneous bloomery steel blade, horn handle (drilled + burned in hidden tang). A closeup of the other side of the blade. This billet is only 18 layers--I wanted to maintain the messy metallurgy we see on so many of the originals. I smelted the iron back in March. Unlike my first half-successful try, this smelt went well. I got a nice, steely 14lb bloom. (This photo’s from the preheat, just before I switched from wood to charcoal.) Obligatory photo of the slag tap, near the end of the smelt. The 14lb bloom of new iron, birthed (via c-section) from the side of the furnace. The bloom was steely already, but I decided to do a hearth melt with some of the scraps that fluffed off it while I was compacting the main part. I tossed those scraps into a charcoal hearth, and got a nice lump of much more consolidated steel from it. The smaller bloom from the hearth melt, and the billet into which I forged 1/2 of it. I forged that billet into a blade! Polished and etched. I love the textures of bloomery steel.
  2. 1 point
    HI !! Finally i finished this knife Blade made of 1070 and 15n20, Handle: ebony, 304 and 420 stainless damascus
  3. 1 point
    I've been wanting to make one of these for ages and finally got around to it. The body of the knife is made from 2mm thick copper sheet which I've beaten and filed the top then applied liver of sulphur to patina the surface. The blade is made from Shiro 2 with a white paper steel core, blade thickness is 3mm, blade length is 75mm, that's cutting edge, overall length of the knife is 186mm and the closed length including the flipper is 135mm. I've called her Tombo, dragonfly, I hope you like her. Thank you for taking the time to look guys and all comments are really appreciated. Steve
  4. 1 point
    Alright, so I've finally finished the latest knife... I've named it Járn Haukr - Iron Hawk - with it's handle shaped like that of the body of a bird - with a nice fat chest for good grip. The blade is in bog iron from old tools made by the workers in the Silver Mines of Kongsberg city in Norway. This makes out the body. The edge steel itself is folded and twisted saw-blade steel from an old wood mill and 15n20 for contrast. The edge steel hardened nicely, and ended up at 58 HRC. The handle is in a solid piece of stabilized maple, with brass and vulcanized fiber spacers with a nice piece of mirror polished copper for the bolster. This knife was made extra large and thick in order to accomodate the oversized hands of it's owners, so I took inspiration from some of the more American Bowie style sheaths I've seen on this forum - and made a massive sheath as well. The sheath is 5 layers of leather, died in a deep dark red with brown borders. The iron has some cracks in it - but this is the best I was able to do with the material at hand. If I had more - I suppose I could have kept refining 3-4 kg. down to something a bit more useful. I feel however - that from a historical perspective - it is quite fitting like this. It will be handed over to it's new owner this afternoon. As always, any critique and comments are more than welcome. Sincerely, Alveprins.
  5. 1 point
    My recommendation would be to build a completely separate control box: Preferably a metal enclosure (to help with cooling the SSR) fitted with cable and plug to plug it into a mains socket, power to the PID controller taken from inside the box and the PID controller output switching an SSR, which switches the power to a power socket on the front of the box. I fit a miniature thermocouple socket to the front of the box so that the thermocouple just plugs in. The one in the photo is larger and much fancier than necessary, having been assembled for a 28"-long HT oven I built. Once built, it can be used to control pretty much anything: Austenitizing HT oven, tempering oven, salt pot, electric crucible furnace.
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    I wonder if we need to explain to the youngsters that the Space Invaders you're referring to actually exist, not just generic space invaders.....
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  10. 1 point
    I love it. FWIW, I see lobsters fighting.
  11. 1 point
    It's starting to look more like a knife: The more I look at this pattern, the more I see a pair of dinosaurs getting ready to attack each other.
  12. 1 point
    So after a dissapointing try at etching with the ferric chloride I got some very good advice from Steve (Bladegrinder) so set out to try the hydrochloric acid. 5 liters of 32% was just NZ$20 (US$13) and I got a glass jar to do the heating in. It had a metal cap but a plumbing soil pipe end cap with the thread sanded out was a perfect fit so when not in use there will not be fumes rusting everything in the shed. I made a small bench and used an old gas fire that had had the pot bars cut out but a cake rack was a good fit to hold the pot of water to boil and heat the acid. I had it set in the doorway with a fan about 10 ft back to make a ight air current that would make sure ay fumes went outside. I made a sheet metal shield to keep the air current off the flame and have a soil pipe container with baking soda to nutralise the acid before scrubing the blade in water with a fingernail brush then a gentle sand with 2000grit paper. Water is just about boiling here and the acid is getting warm. I let the water boil for 5 minutes which makes the acid hot enough to do its job reasonably quickly as it only took about 7 minutes to get a nice etch. Note the cake rack (the bars were cut out to take a tray of wood chips for smoking sausage and salami) With hindsight I think the ladder pattern would be much better with a full flat grind but even so the coarse pattern seems to wrok well enough on the larger knife. The raindrop pattern is really quite suited to the ff grind so I am happy with it on this smaller blade. So now that they are etched I can get the handle back on and finished up.
  13. 1 point
    I got in a little late night forging after work today:
  14. 1 point
    Another option is 8th wall 1" square tubing. That's what I use. Easier to get good penetration, more weld surface, better heat dispersion while forging. 3/4" square works good too, but holds heat longer. Saying this I realize this stuff isnt throw away material to most. If you got it though, it's what I'd recommend.
  15. 1 point
    Designed my next, Let’s hope this one turns out well, my last 2 knives were supposed to be my carry knife, but they don’t look presentable. This one is thin 80crv2 and it will hopefully have some blue resin/maple burl hybrid block scales, anyone know were I can get some of that?
  16. 1 point
    using a known steel that is weldable is better than taking a chance on rebar but i like the deformations in rebar makes it nice to hold on to and as long as it was "annealed" (we got red then cooled...i know i know close enough) you will really not have an issue in the HAZ (heat effected zone) of the rebar its usually not that high in carbon or that complex an alloy. it really is the geometry. as for rod penetration use 6010, 6011 or 6013 they are not as fussy with needing clean steel as 7018 and have deeper penetration than 70series rods. if you are using MIG then you are completely reliant on the geometry and cleanliness of the weld and material. that was a topic in my welding party i had on Saturday where most of my junior structural engineers got to experience what they are designing and asking fabricators to do. last one i demonstrated forge welding but we never get to spec that out, bummer. good luck. Joe
  17. 1 point
    Good work there Steve. Very organic look to her.
  18. 1 point
    I like that low-contrast etch. Classy!
  19. 1 point
    Ooh, yeah! That's a lovely drive as long as you don't get stuck in a river of motor homes. And the Museum of the Cherokee Indian is very, very good. If you've got kids between the ages of 7 and 14 there's plenty of tourist traps for them in Pigeon Forge. The actual forge hasn't existed since around 1863, but it was under what is now the gift shop at the Old Mill Restaurant. Here's the story...
  20. 1 point
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  22. 1 point
    I really really AM picking up on the hawk theme. The sheath puts me in mind of chest feathers though I see it's actually an interlocking pattern. Too freakin cool man! You somehow get better each one. Btw, I dont even miss the extra pattern weld you usually use.
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