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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/03/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Hello, I forged this 7 3/4 inch long blade from a San mai billet I made with 200 layer 1084/15N20 sandwiching a piece of 80CRV2. It is 1/4 thick at the ricasso, flat ground with a convex edge. Makers mark etched on the blade spine. The guard and spacer are mild steel and gun blued. Handle is ironwood with a stainless pin. Sheath is 8oz leather with a beavertail hide overlay and hand stitched by yours truly. Price is $350 shipped. I am in Alberta, Canada. Please PM me and can send additional photos. Thanks, Clint
  2. 1 point
    Hey guys, long time since I posted last. I've been working as a fabricator/food grade sheet metal worker for the past 7 years or so and have developed some skills that I want to incorporate into a return to this craft. I'll be building a large shop next year, and will be building a full set of very nice equiptment to outfit it with in the time leading up to that. This is a work in progress thread that should come along pretty quickly. To start with, I'm making an experimental forge for heat treatment, it will be 20" in diameter, top fed and powered by the burner shown below. The video I posted is of a test firing. The ribbon section/plenum is all stainless steel w 15 1/4" jets set at increasing distances of 1/8" so that the bottom two are roughly 1" on center, and the top two are nearly 3". This is to theoretically help compensate for heat rising and collecting at the top of the forge. The black component is mild steel with an integrated slide gate, fuel line, and seperate port for the extra air since my fan is oversized. I figure this will act as a safety feature for settled propane, and help keep the burner cool. This burner will obviously be mounted vertically on the forge body, and with the closer spaced jet end towards the bottom, I will be posting pictures of thr construction of the chamber within the coming week or so. Aiming for ready for lining by the end of next week.
  3. 1 point
    This is the latest collaboration sword from myself Petr Florianek . We wanted to make another fantasy sword yet at the same time keeping a firm grip on reality. This a very much a “real” sword but also a dragon slaying hero’s sword! The sword blade takes inspiration from early Saxon blades, marrying that history into Tolkien’s middle earth and the world of the Rohirrim horse lords. The blade was made by myself and the handle and scabbard are Petr’s work. The blade takes inspiration from early Saxon patternwelded blades and has a lenticular section giving it the heft and strength needed when fighting dragons! It is important for me that anything I make has a functional reality to it. A reality based upon the imagined purpose of the object . This is the sword of a mighty horselord hero with the pride and fate of his people behind him. A sword for battling a dragon. Bryneleoma has a patternwelded blade 3 core bars twisted anticlockwise, clockwise and anticlockwise, the core bars are wrapped in a high layer damascus edge . The bold core pattern contrasting the fine layers of the edge. In Petr’s words… I wanted to make a truly heroic sword and when given Owen’s mighty blade, I had enough inspiration to get the feel of it. The blade is hefty and long so I immediately started to picture a mounted warrior; a hero on a horse, a proto knight if you will. The inspiration for this sword is firmly set in Tolkien’s Middle Earth, in the world of the Rohirrim horse lord. The motives for ornamentation are simple – he dragon on the pommel as the most powerful enemy but also a symbol to ward off evil. On the handle a series of knots representing fate being spun by higher beings. The knot on the guard symbolises oath, the oath of the horse lord bound to his people as their protector. An oath from sword to swordsman, the guard of the sword being there to protect its heroic master. I love doing these pieces with Petr, and always look forward to getting the finished piece. He has a way of bringing a blade to life.....
  4. 1 point
    Hi All Just finished, 3 Bar Seax, handle yew capped with sterling silver fittings, Total length 37.5 cm, blade 22.5 cm Richard
  5. 1 point
    I just want to really clarify that as long as you aren't cracking the metal, and you are going to HT later, the HAZ isn't something to worry about. Unless you are doing stock removal, then you may run into hard spots that a normalization cycle will fix.
  6. 1 point
    The heat affected zone is just an area around the place that got welded or thermally cut, but was not actually welded or cut. I wouldn't really worry about it since you are going to HT after the cut. Some alloys may crack during a thermal cutting operation due to the rapid temperature change. For leaf springs I would image you would be very safe if you normalize, cut, normalize. And probably won't have problems if you do no normalizing (other than your usual amount after forging for grain refinement).
  7. 1 point
    Sadly, my Rockwell tester is down (both at work and at home). A local college that has an engineering or machining center may be able to run a test for you.
  8. 1 point
    It seems Brian and I both had the idea to follow Steve Culver's instruction book on how to built a slipjoint folder without making patterns first. Like Brian, I know this is not going to be my last one! This one is bound for Knife in the Hat, and I will use what I learned making it to make the next one even better. Specs: Blade and backspring, 3/32" precision ground O-1 flat bar Brass liners with Nickel Silver bolsters and pins. Jigged bone scales from Culpepper & Co., Amber dyed, Catalina pattern. Open length 5 7/8" / 147mm, blade length 2 5/8" / 66mm. Closed length 3 1/4" / 82mm Maximum thickness 3/8" / 11mm I made two changes from Culver's design. I omitted the scale pin near the peak of the liners because I thought it was unnecessary and distracting, and I rounded the tang because I've never liked a knife with a half-stop. It just seems ridiculous to me and serves no purpose except to break your thumbnail if the spring is too strong. Speaking of which, I am really happy with the spring. It isn't too heavy, and the knife snaps open and closed with authority. The judge of how strong to make the spring is my wife, if she thinks it's too strong, back to the grinder! It feels much like any good factory knife of its size, spring strength-wise. And now for the pics! The problems I had with this one: 1. The pivot pin is not invisible on one side. 2. The blade is not dead center when closed. 3. A minor slip at the grinder moved the left-hand plunge line back into the kick. 4. While soldering the bolsters, the scribed line on the right bolster was not where I thought it was, resulting in a mismatch between the two sides. Much colorful language and careful filing followed. There has been a bit more cleanup on it after these pics were taken, mostly to remove that facet on the underside of the bolsters. I also engraved that spot with my initials since I forgot to do the blade prior to hardening...
  9. 1 point
    I just finished a little blade for a guy who had a dream of making his own knife... So I cracked - and forged him this one. The one and only non-mounted blade I'll ever sell. Anyhow - thought it might be of interest to have a peek. Didn't do any fancy photo-shoot for this one, so it's a single mobile phone picture only... The blade is about 13cm long, and 3,something wide. 3,5mm thick. The pattern welded steel is made from an old sawmill blade and 15n20 for contrast. The edge is Øberg steel. Initial hardness after hardening and anealing for 3 hours was 63 HRC. Took me quite a few aditional hours to get it down to around 58... But here we are, all finished and polished up! Anyhow - time for summer vacation and motorcycle tour through the rest of Europe. fixing up my workshop with new benches, shelves, lighting and stuff - and then it's back to new and exciting projects after the summer!
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    I love how the twist stars follow the grind line for the bevel. Enjoy your ride through Europe!
  12. 1 point
    I’m getting pretty good at this hand sanding thing. Still can’t figure out how to get the scratches out of the plunge though.
  13. 1 point
    This is not about edge packing but helps understand what happens during cold forging and it's pros and cons. https://knifesteelnerds.com/2019/03/11/cold-forging-of-steel/
  14. 1 point
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