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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/23/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    336 layer random damascus/African Blackwood/ 416 Fittings
  2. 2 points
    Shawn's advice is one of the simplest, most effective ways to this. I drill, then taper, and then make shims exactly like Shawn says above. I even have a drawing on my dry erase board that I just fill in the values, and blam, I know what I need to do. I clamp one scale at a time to the tang, glue the shim the on the side of the scale that will be on the drill press table, and drill through. I always make sure my scales are uniform in thickness. Here is the drawing from my dry erase board:
  3. 1 point
    So in a different route from my typical bloom smelting I built a propane furnace to make some crucible steel. I mixed brown glass with wrought iron and cast iron from the bloom furnaces with 80crv2 for the added alloying along with some crushed charcoal. All together 900 grams of iron and steel resulted in 600 gram puck I'm pretty excited to try forging this down. Although I will be working in a coal forge with a great bellows and hand hammering. This will certainly be a project. On a weird note I didnt get a reading at all on the psi gauge for the burner I just adjusted everything by sight and sound.
  4. 1 point
    I have some progress shots on a 4-bar twist for a commission I'm working on. Surface ground after welding. Pattern reveal after a light etch.
  5. 1 point
    Hello I just wanted to share my first forged knife. I've made two blades before this but they cracked in HT. 20190728_172512.mp4 20190728_172512.mp4
  6. 1 point
    I would like to point out for those that don't know, these are the indentations from the Vicker's hardness test. This is a very small (localized) hardness check.
  7. 1 point
    You are welcome Jerrod. I knew I was pushing into crazy territory, but didnt fully understand cast characteristics until most recently, and what to look for in my product. As stated earlier in this or my crucible thread, I had various samples of my crucible steel and some hearth steel for a researcher to look at. On of the samples was a 4fold piece of hearth steel. He had mentioned then that I had a clean band of heavy cementite, or iron carbide in the piece. At the time it was a mystery, but now things are getting so clear. This is why I love metallurgy and steel creation. Theres so much I learn the further I go in my journey that I am able to critically inspect previous work and findings a refine my understanding. Anyway, the piece was cool and he did take a micrograph, albeit not as bright as mine are. He also used a Vickers hardness test that the microscope was outfitted with to determine between ferrite and cementite structures. Inside that dark band it was showing all of or most of the white to be cementite at the grain boundaries.
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    Make a sheath, and call it a knife.
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    I agree that a full butt cap would be too much. If it were me, I would be considering inlaying a small disk in the butt to cover the tennon. Then again, it is late August, and it is certainly good enough.
  12. 1 point
    98 x 22mm blade cocobolo handle, ebony spacers, peened brass front bolster, and convex rear brass bolster.
  13. 1 point
    I have not had them do any custom stabilization. I have only purchased their pre-stabilized stock. I cannot remember anything I purchased from them failing my test. I have had other company's stabilized wood fail. I am curious about their stabilization services You probably don't know me as well as some of the other forumites, but I love to argue. I'm Sicilian, and arguing is just something we do to pass the time. So don't ever be afraid to get argumentative with me, just be prepared for the long haul if you do.
  14. 1 point
    I didnt do this today, but I requested advice earlier here about this knife... does it need a buttcap? Made of silver, wrought, or damascus? I added silver wire btw.
  15. 1 point
    For my KITH knife I’m going with an edc style blade. I had forged and heat treated this a while back and started handsanding it before I set aside for other projects. The handle is maple, Padauk and walnut that I’ve cut into slats and then glued together. Next I’m going to cut that block up width ways to make tabs which I will alternate and glue together again.
  16. 1 point
    Drill the tang like you normally would. When drilling the scales, you can place shims underneath the rear portion of the scale to ensure that you're drilling perpendicular to the centerline. To determine the thickness of the shim needed, measure the thickness at the ricasso, then the thickness at the butt. Subtract the latter from the former and divide by two. If the scale material is not of uniform thickness, you'll need to measure the difference and take that into account.
  17. 1 point
    Diced and glued together. Ready for a cleanup and start drilling holes
  18. 1 point
    Thank you for your praise of my work, Wes. Coming from a professional knife maker of your skill is humbling and most gratifying. BTW your work has been teaching me since I have joined this forum.
  19. 1 point
    Just finished, Skinner/Utility with gut hook. Handforged 1084 blade, with 500 grit working finish. Blued steel bolster w/ red spacers. Whitetail handle (customer provided, from his own hunting). OAL- 9" Blade - 4.25"
  20. 1 point
    Some micrographs of the core steel. The core steel is again W2 sandwiched between orishigane. A few show the clean weld of the two disimilar metals. I need to obtain a few more etchants to show grain boundaries.
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