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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/02/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Alright with the knife done, I think the time has come to post some WIP pictures I actually made two similar knives because I want to have one extra to sell and making two is almost as fast as making one. The carving is different because making two exactly the same is boring in my opinion. The person who draws my name will get to choose his favourite. I started by making a layout file in autocad, this made it a lot easier to get the pin placement right. Normally I design all my stuff freehand, but here some extra accuracy was beneficial. For the blades I made a san-mai (maybe ‘’go-mai’’because of the five layers?) billet with a 1095 core, 15n20 strips on either side and wrought iron sides. The wrought came from the wall anchors from a early 19th century farm. After surface grinding the steel I cut the blades and backspacers from this material. I chose not forge closer to shape because it is a lot easier, but also because the pattern looks better when ground deeply. They were heat treated and ground normally. Grinding such small blades was a lot more difficult as I expected, I burned my fingertips a lot. After the steel parts were done the real work was about to begin. The copper needed to be flattened, and because copper doesn’t stick to my surface grinder magnet it had to be done with sandpaper on a granite plate. I think this was the most time consuming part of the whole build. The flat copper gets super glued together and holes are drilled. I made some brass washers for the pivot and decorated them with a tiny hammer. I assembled the handle without the blade and shaped and polished it, after buffing most of the copper pins disappeared. The blade is etched and the pivot pin riveted. With everything assembled I could move on to the best part: engraving the handles. I mount the knife in pine rosin pitch and tap away with a tiny hammer and homemade engravers. After some testing of different ways to layout the design I eventually settled on using regular old whiteout, it sticks really good to metal, you can draw on it directly with a pencil and even erase pencil lines when careful. So now I could freehand the knotwork with pencil and just follow the lines with chisel. After carving and removing of very sticky pitch I patinated the handles with liver of sulphur. And Most of the patina rubbed from the high spots. With handling these knives are only getting prettier each day. Even scratches add to the antique look. I just got a new camera, so I made some high resolution pictures for you all to enjoy. Thanks for watching
  2. 1 point
    Wes Detrick started me thinking about trying some new styles. I dug out some failures and started regrinding and slight redesigning of blades I thought were ruined. I learned there is usually another blade hiding in the former failure. The Wharncliffe and Fighter blades both have a convex grind. The ricasso on the Fighter is tapered from spine toward the edge which is slightly rounded. I have not added a swedge, just not sure yet.
  3. 1 point
    This is the first knife born out of my coffee can forge. I was mainly looking to keep it as cheap as possible just to see if bladesmithing was for me. The steel comes from a junk tire iron I found in the garage when we moved in. My guess is that it's 5160-ish. The scales are made from some leftover 1/4" plywood with a couple coats of linseed oil (before I got it all dirty. I'm probably going to sand it down and refinish it). The pins are some kind of mild steel cut from a 3/8" round bar that the gentleman at our local welding shop gave me for free when I came in looking for brass. The place doubles as our local gun shop, so I bought a few boxes of .223 he had on sale to return the favor. This baby was quenched in Canola oil and tempered in our kitchen oven to a nice dark yellow after I fished it out of the bottom of the oven with a baking mit and a pair of vise grips. I blew a lot of money at Harbor Freight on tools to get this done (much to the dismay of the Mrs (thank God I'm an inside track club kinda guy)), but I feel that it was money well spent, as I have a cool little shop set up and I think I finally found a hobby that I'm passionate about. I'm thinking of calling it The Hobo Freight knife... There's still some forge marks on there that I couldn't quite grind out, but it's like the scratches on my guitar, it gives it character. The main point of this post isn't to show off my janky first blade, but to mostly thank all of you. This forum is like a cornucopia of knowledge for everything bladesmithing, and while this is my first post, I've spent hours and hours on here going through old posts trying to consume every little scrap of knowledge I can and steal all your little tips and tricks so, hopefully, I can one day create something on par with y'all. It's a journey I'm now excited for. So, thank you all.
  4. 1 point
    The one time I saw it done, the smith quenched it, showed us the warp, then heated it to around 300 degrees (hot enough to make water skitter off, he said), then gently tapped it back straight on a stump. That blade was W2 and wrought iron.
  5. 1 point
    Yeah but the bullets would have to be mokume-gane.
  6. 1 point
    I got three of the guards ground & polished today in front of the holiday crowd. Hopefully I'll get the other three done tomorrow.
  7. 1 point
    I have not had them do any custom stabilization. I have only purchased their pre-stabilized stock. I cannot remember anything I purchased from them failing my test. I have had other company's stabilized wood fail. I am curious about their stabilization services You probably don't know me as well as some of the other forumites, but I love to argue. I'm Sicilian, and arguing is just something we do to pass the time. So don't ever be afraid to get argumentative with me, just be prepared for the long haul if you do.
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