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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/24/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    This one is nearly done. 3 1/2" blade of clay hardened 2mm cs70, oak crotch burr handle and buffalo horn bolster: let me know what you think...
  2. 2 points
    Just finished this up as an order. 3 1/2" cable blade, red deer coronet handle with carved walnut bolster and obverse, carved walnut scabbard: let me know what you think...
  3. 1 point
    Dear Brethren, I made this seax a while back but havent posted it until now as it was a secret present for the honourable Mr Ecroyd for his upcoming trip to the other side of the world. This is meant as an every day carry knife while he works on a farm over there. I havent had any of my knives apart from kitchen knives see any serious work yet so hopefully he can give it a good field test! Blade: 5", 15N20/EN42J Handle: Lost wax cast bronze bolster with stabilised coolibah burl. As always let me know what you think! Cheers, James
  4. 1 point
    https://arstechnica.com/science/2019/09/knives-made-of-frozen-feces-dont-make-the-cut-disproving-well-known-legend/
  5. 1 point
    I picked up this knife at a rummage sale, thinking it could be fun to fix up. It was in bad shape as you can see. I am looking for a little more information on the knife if anyone out there knows about it. The best I can gather is that it is a Sakai Kikuo knife. I believe it is san mai, but I cannot confirm that. While fixing up the edge/shape I did have to get a little closer to the original maker mark than I liked, but there was no way around it. I refinished the handle with a white ash body and pecan ferrule spaced with 1/32" G10. The pecan has a very cool tigers eye effect I was not expecting. Also, my apologies if the pics appear out of order https://i.imgur.com/j4D4S5A.mp4
  6. 1 point
    Hi guys, I recently re-built my workshop as it was really just consisting of two tables on top of eachother with a vice attached to the top one, and a belt grinder resting on the bottom one... I decided that having worked under such conditions for the past few years, it was time to build something more.. "real"... Above is my wood-working area. This is where I do all the wood-work on my knife handles (and other stuff). I am quite happy with the setup, and the addition of a new milling machine (left) has made everything so much more enjoyable. Previously I've done all my leatherwork sitting in my sofa in front of the TV. I figured it was time for a change, so I created this setup in the same building as the wood-working area. The leather is suspended in the ceiling above the station for easy access and saving space. And opposite the "leather station" is my engraving station. With the addition of a Lindsay Classic Airgraver - I needed to create something. So - this is my attempt at such a station. My engraving need a bit more work though, but at least I have somewhere to practice now. :) And last but not the least - a little preview of something I'm working on at the moment. A multibar san-mai skinner... Still need some more file work on the handle, and then there's the sheath of course... :) Alright, that's about it folks! I'll drop a post once the skinner is ready.... :) Sincerely, Alveprins.
  7. 1 point
    A fella asked me to make a cleaver recently, so I made two very similar. Stock removal from an old ice saw blade, beat on with a ball peen hammer for a "distressed" look, finished with mustard patina. I used wendge wood for the handle scales and believe it is deceptively nice stuff when finished, doesn't looks that great until you put a polish on it IMHO. Clint
  8. 1 point
    I cut and flattened the antler and recessed it for the tang, then cut out a 'V' for the top half of the bolster. Then I cut the top half of the bolster, and recessed it for the shoulders of the blade, and super-glued it in place. Then I flattened everything again, and cut a piece of walnut for the back, rough shaped to match the mouth of the top bolster. As the tang and shoulders were entirely seated in the top half of the handle, this just needed flattened, and both halves epoxied together, and then it was all rasped, filed, sanded etc to shape: So it's just a straight seam between the antler and the wood (lighting in this shot isn't great, but it looks pretty neat in person...). The blade was forged from 1/2" cable with some kind of fibre core, so by the time I got it welded, it was very thin and narrow, like 1/16th by 5/8ths, so I folded that up a few times, 3 or 4 layers (it was a couple of years ago, so I don't remember exactly), and forged that into a bar about 1/4" x 1/2" x 6", and forged a couple of blades out of that...
  9. 1 point
    I love this kind of stuff. It evokes the pure sense of handmade and craftsmanship... You just can't fake a hand carved handle/scabbard. This makes me long for those cold winter days when your snowed in, sitting in a cozy little workshop next to a hot wood stove with uninterrupted hours to carve. Never happens, but I can dream
  10. 1 point
    I have no doubt it could do the job, but sorry, if that was mine I'd not be able to do more than take it out and wipe it down with an oily rag once a week.
  11. 1 point
    Some things to keep in mind, on the mainland (Frankish Empire), seaxes disappear either during or shortly after the reign of Charlemagne (followed by Louis the Pious). In the Isles, they disappear after the Norman conquest. History isn't really my thing though. And yeah, I don't fancy spending the precious time I have to write a book. I've uploaded most of the photos and documents I have (still in progress of adding more) to the facebook group. So basically if you go there you can quite easily catch up on what I know on the subject.
  12. 1 point
    That's nice! Looks ready for all day use.
  13. 1 point
    Just finished up this little edc sized cleaver. 1080 steel and Blue dyed Curly maple.
  14. 1 point
    What Doug said, every inch of this thing is awesome.
  15. 1 point
    oh no, this looks really nice... I agree with the guys, too clean, cant handle it. I'd have oil stains, burn marks, wood shavings and metal dust all over the floor, tables, walls and ceiling within 2 weeks. Id recommend you try to find some of "these," to add to your shop: quick release woodworking vice (first real tool and smartest thing I ever bought) whetstones (300#, 1000#, 6000#, 8000# 10.000#, strop) hand planes 2x bench hooks Japanese pull saw/'s
  16. 1 point
    Wow! Makes my shop look even junkier!
  17. 1 point
    I think I saw this one on Facebook. It's worth more compliments though! Great job, man!
  18. 1 point
    The first thought I had was of the annoying spray of water and grinding dust I get in the face sometimes at the grinder...
  19. 1 point
    And here I thought I was the only one with a train wreck of a shop Really nice looking shop. I hope to have one that nice someday.
  20. 1 point
    I would be completely unable to get anything done in there, it's too clean! Due to some unexpected tooling arrivals, my shop looks rather like two cluttered shops crashed into one another at high speed, sunk to the ocean floor, and the sediments are still falling...
  21. 1 point
    Garry..... thank you for posting this as I (we all) can benefit from the process. I had to look up the wood as I had not heard of it before! Nice job! Gary LT
  22. 1 point
    I say “good for you”! (I can say “wish I had something similar!) I am sure it cost some money but for the very nice work you do, it’s called for. Congrats!! Gary LT
  23. 1 point
    How do you ever find anything if it's not laying on the table or floor? Nice shop by the way.
  24. 1 point
    yeah...not gonna post any pictures of my shop after seeing this.....I'm way more cluttered and messy
  25. 1 point
    Very sweet work area! Jealous!
  26. 1 point
    Ok, I'll be the first to say it... You suck! (Translation: That is amazing, and I'll be envious when I go back to my shabby work area)
  27. 1 point
    Here is progress from the last 2 nights: Out of the vinegar bath: Cut off the bad stuff and grind out the delams: You can see a Cold Steel Tuff Lite in the pic. It murders boxes. Now for some forging: First pass, I fluxed and got to welding temp just to get any delams I might have missed. Then on to forging the blade: Now, I separate the stock: I do some normalizing, and here is what I am left with: After profiling the handle some: Ready for heat treat: And We Have a Survivor folks! In the oven now for the first temper cycle. And that will be all for tonight...
  28. 1 point
    The fighter is now complete. I added a pin which was a p,i.a. to install at the final stage of construction.
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