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Hi all, i don’t usually post work, at least not often. With the last KITH, I was inspired to do a couple of folders. Have not tried slipjoints for a long time and it felt good for a change. The first one is a coke bottle with nickel silver and blood wood. Yes my logo is too large and I am ordering a smaller stencil. I have a young grandson who has a birthday late November so this one goes there. The second one I really like, as I had a couple of small slabs of fossilized mammoth tooth for years. I think I got these at the Blade show, can’t remember. Being super careful not to crack or burn this stuff, the slabs are one. Pretty to me anyway. Nickel Silver bolsters. One pin is not nickel silver as I wanted to keep the pin smaller. Both blades are angled downward in the open position, so I need to work on that. But still functional and with snap.

MwahhuhHahahahaaaaah!

Hi all I am hoping to sell my last 2 knives from my JS test set that I successfully passed this year in Atlanta. I was hoping to get a table at blade show west this year and show them there but plans fell through so here they are: first one is a 7 1/8” 5160 blade mild steel guard and cocobolo handle 11 3/4” overall second blade is 7” 5160 blade with stainless guard and maple burl handle 12” overall and last is a professional picture of the whole set. $300 obo each shipped to the lower 48 thanks for looking!

@Joshua States it is mostly used for aluminum, yes, but is also used for magnesium and a few niche applications. It can also be used for rusty steel, but youre better of just cleaning the steel and using DC. The reversing polarities of AC have an inherent cleaning action, cutting through the oxide layers which melt at much higher temperature then the base metal itself. One assumes you could just clean metals like aluminum or magnesium before welding, but they form an oxide layer immediately on contact with air, which means any time between cleaning and welding just builds more oxide, and these metals are very touchy about welding with oxide layers present. During the electrode positive (EP) portion of the AC cycle, the current is flowing from the workpiece to the electrode, thus "blasting" or "pushing" the oxide layer away. The electrode negative (EN) portion of the AC cycle then has a clean section of metal to fuse, free from oxide, when the current pushes from the electrode to the work. The shielding gas used (argon or helium usually, depending on the situation) prevents more oxide from forming by pushing away the ambient air, forming a cloud of shielding gas, essentially. Keep in mind that many, many AC cycles are happening every second, and you can adjust the number of cycles per second on most higher end machines, as well as the balance control, which is whether it favors more cleaning or more penetration (EP or EN, respectively.) You want to use as little EP as possible, if you can adjust it. EP tends to cause excessive heat build up, which is not good for your tungsten or your material being welding. A quick note on shielding gases; argon, which is heavier than air, is typically used when you're welding downwards, like on a welding table. This encompasses 90% of all TIG welding, I would bet. But this is so the heavy shielding gas is pushed down onto the weld. Helium is used if you're welding above yourself, so the light helium rises up into the weld. Hope that wasn't too long winded. I'm having flashbacks to welding school .

The parts I ordered from them were the same way. Packaged very well and exactly as advertised. Good company to work with. I got my VFD off of amazon, as well as my 3 hp motor. Your VFD looks very similar to mine. It's a bit of trial and error to get it programmed and running totally properly, but once you do, they're so nice. Luck to you. May the Colonel run hard and true!

I shall call him... Colonel. Yep it does look really well built. Much more sturdy than it probably needs to be. The VDF and motor came pre-wired and it was over packaged. I literally just have to adjust a few things bolt it all to a bench and plug it into an outlet. Back to the packing: alot of time and effort went into making sure it arrived safely. I'm 100% satisfied so far.

Check out the Build a Gas Forge and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you.

I've never chopped bamboo, not a lot to be had in my area. That being said, I think a full flat with a convex edge is a good plan. That usually results in a pretty solid edge.