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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/16/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    This is the knife I made for the challenge project that @Joshua States put up in the Beginners Place forum. I just finished up the sheath this morning. It's made from reclaimed spring steel and has a 6" blade. The handle is African Blackwood scales with mild steel fittings. A family friends son is graduating from basic training in a couple of weeks and this will be on it's way to him. I want to say thank you again to Joshua for posting his challenge projects. There's a few firsts for me with this blade that I probably would not have done otherwise. As always comments and critiques are very welcome.
  2. 1 point
    This is my first posting on this site of any of my own work it is a Searles inspired Bowie. 9 1/4"x 1 1/2" x 3/16" 1084 hi carbon forged blade, 14" overall length with file worked oval nickel guard, rosewood handle, with coin silver bolster and end cap.
  3. 1 point
    Here are a few folding knives I have made lately. They also double as a flint striker. Blades are 1084 and frame is 5160
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    Got 3 knives out last week in the new packaging and i'm pretty happy with the look. Ive now got 10 blades of various styles, forged and heat treated, ready for grinding and handling. Would love to get them done in the next couple of weeks. Seems to be a good time of year to sell knives - a couple of this next batch have sold 'off plan' from putting the pics of the forgings on Instagram!
  6. 1 point
    It's shocking to me! Congratulations!
  7. 1 point
    Yup, whut them dudes said man ....................
  8. 1 point
    That turned out with far less pattern deformation then I expected! Damn you are good at this, Gary! I like the idea of an oak tree pattern with an oak burl handle, that's stylistically a cool idea.
  9. 1 point
    That eye came out nice
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    HELMET Caranthir from The Witcher 3!!! The Navigator, student of the Avallac'h, one of the Wild Hunt's riders, who almost killed Geralt. I've started making the mask for the helmet from 2mm 30hgsa steel. This will be a functional fighting helmet for battles with steel weapon. In the video you see only the initial forging. This is not the final result. Usually, I make historical armor, but I like fantasy armor more.
  13. 1 point
    I apologize for the poor photo quality but it's late and this is the best lighting that I have available now. This blade has become on long, lean fighter type. Sometimes the steel just tells you what it wants to be. Since this one was made primarily from powdered steel, it has presented it's many of it's own unique problems along the way but I think that I've got it going my way now. I've got a nice block of oak burl on order to be used for the handle. (It seemed appropriate.)
  14. 1 point
    Nat bad. I'm only 20 minutes past where I wanted to be. I wanted to get to this point by noon but a guy and his wife slid off the road trying to make the corner and I had to pull them out of the ditch and that set me back 30 minutes or so.
  15. 1 point
    I've been making blades at a hobby level for the last 3 years. In the last year I've sold 4 that were commissioned by coworkers. In my opinion a 1x30 is absolutely worth the $50 it costs at harbor freight for a beginner. I spent my first 2 years hand filing and hand sanding my bevels. For a beginner this is not a fast method. I probably put in around 15 hrs per blade filing and sanding just to get to heat treat. (I only do stock removal at this point) it was exhausting. A year ago I borrowed my dad's 1x30. After making a bevel jig and a better table for the grinder I made 3 6" hunting knives in 1/8"thick 80crv2. It took me 1 hour per blade to grind in the bevels. That is a huge improvement in efficiency over my previous filing method. I don't doubt a seasoned veteran can file a bevel as fast as a 1x30 but I'm not a seasoned veteran. If you can only afford a 1x30 and a few belts go for it. You won't regret it. If you are planning on making more than a couple knives per month then you should plan for a better model down the road. Im looking to build a 2x42 for my next upgrade. I completely understand your limited budget. Most months I'm lucky to have $30 of play money. Also keep in mind the cost of belts. If you can't afford a pack of 2x72 belts then go smaller. 1x30 is much cheaper and will last on smaller blades. Work within your budget. Is 1x30 worthless compared to 2x72? Yes! Is 1x30 worthless to a noob? No, it's an improvement over nothing. My best advice is to buy the best grinder you can afford right now. For me it's a 1x30.
  16. 1 point
    Hello: Just finished this one for book IV...what a nightmare this one was...the polish is deadly....cut myself a bunch of times but double edges can get yas.. Still it turned out OK I guess.. Not too bad for a broken down old man.. blade length 13 3/4"...1095 and L6 laminate... This one could really benefit from a pro grade polish.. A bunch of stuff going on in there... Hope the photos work JPH
  17. 1 point
    So here is the plan. Currently, mu rapier blade is a little on the week side. Too thin and not enough thickness. Plus, seeing as we are going all out on this, I wanted to up the anti. the diagram shows my plan. I'm going to forge out 2 billets of cable Damascus and then forge weld them to my blade, effectively creating a San mai. This will give me both the steel for the width and the steel for the thickness, plus the degree of challenge I'm stupidly looking for, and of course, if it all comes out ok, it should look pretty awesome too. Any thoughts from those more experienced?
  18. 1 point
    Nearing completion now. Need to clean up the secondary fuller, sharpen and make a leather sheathe for it. OAL: 18.25" Blade: 14" Weight: 15 ounces. Full Length Some fun color in the ivory. Wrought iron pommel cap.
  19. 1 point
    Short update: Blade finished to 80grit, grip formed and bound with hemp yarn (I will never do one without again, the possibility of breakage by the vibrations and movements of the long tang is too high). Again: the major work are the fullers in the Schilt (wide part at the base of the blade) done with half-round files and sandpaper on steel cylinders. It's time to get the 4" and 6" grinding wheels for the belt grinder ready...
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