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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    (Sorry Clifford............been waitin' a long time to "steal" that one from ya!)
  2. 1 point
    I recently obtained an 8" contact wheel and decided the first hollow grind should be on a straight razor. Its 3/16" 1084 with a scrap-piece handle (osage orange, mystery wood, and pecan) with vulcanized fiber liner/spacer. Copper peened pin. I need to find a better way to get a consistent grind line on the blade, since this was tough to do freehand. Any comments or suggestions are very appreciated. This was a fun thing to do with a scrap cutoff steel piece
  3. 1 point
    Power hammers and power presses etc. speeds up production - you can make things faster, like knives, axes, and.....mistakes. When I finally got a nice 2x72 grinder, I made knives faster and screwed up several of them faster until I learned how to use it better (and I still make grinder mistakes) because I was used to doing everything by hand for years which actually helped me develop a better eye for detail. The first "fancy" piece of equipment I bought was a large 22 quart roster oven that I used for tempering because I felt it gave a more even temperature control to the oft used toaster oven (and I didn't want to annoy my wife by using the kitchen oven). The first tools that I made were a spring fuller, simple round stock blade tongs, and a hole saw for hidden tang knives.... and made many knives with just this simple equipment. For years I did everything by hand (and still mostly do now). Alan makes a good point about Tai Goo.
  4. 1 point
    My first sword...about 45 hours in on it. Based on a hunting sword in Nuemann's Swords and Blades of the American Revolution. Original had antler handle but I wanted to try this. Started with a 1"x1/4" bar of 1070, a foot square sheet of 3/16 mild steel, some 1" mild round stock and a hunk of ebony...handle ribbon is silver. Hand cut the fuller with jig I saw on here and built.
  5. 1 point
    Hat off to you Gary to begin with for giving this epic a project a go. Best of luck with this one. I really respect your determination.
  6. 1 point
    If at first you don't succeed, skydiving may not be for you.
  7. 1 point
    15.) Roman iron drill, 1st-2nd centuries AD
  8. 1 point
    13.) Roman iron hammer, 1st-2nd centuries AD 14.) Ancient bronze brooch
  9. 1 point
    11.) Roman iron socket axe, 1st-2nd centuries AD 12.) Roman iron spearhead, 1st-2nd centuries BC
  10. 1 point
    10.) Roman iron plough, 1st-2nd centuries AD
  11. 1 point
    9.) Roman iron spearhead, 1st-2nd centuries AD
  12. 1 point
    8.) Roman iron socket axe, 1st-2nd centuries AD
  13. 1 point
    7.) Roman iron drill, 1st-2nd centuries AD
  14. 1 point
    6.) Roman iron axe, 1st-2nd centuries AD
  15. 1 point
    5.) Gothic dagger with cruciform handle, 3rd-4th centuries AD
  16. 1 point
    3.) Roman iron axe, 1st-2nd centuries AD
  17. 1 point
    no video, but I get the jist from the article - thanks Alan! One day someone will try breaking into my house, and it will be like the monty python scene with the knights 'its only a flesh wound'
  18. 1 point
    I have made a few attempts at edge quenching 1.2519 knives. More often than not they pull themselves apart at the point at which they were quenched, so I have given this up as a bad idea. Tempering back the spine to "blue" (after tempering the whole blade @ 200 c) does not seem to add much, or any, toughness at all, either. These are kitchen knives, not hard duty tools, but all the same it seems good/better business to send out knives that will not snap through. Any ideas appreciated. Further questions; Can one edge temper 52100? Can one edge temper O1? (My searches suggest "yes", but I'm always open to further suggestions)
  19. 1 point
    I have found this site a couple years ago, http://members.chello.se/vikingbronze/.
  20. 1 point
    When making a blade out of twist cable damascus, a choice must be made as to direction. Is it better to have the pattern running diagnally from close to the handle at the spine, and toward the tip at the edge, or is it better to have the pattern point back to the handle at the edge? How does this affect cutting ability. Does it matter what the application (blade style)? I have a preferrence, but how about some expert opinions.
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