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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/30/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    All: It's been about two years since the death of my father. He died unexpectedly and suddenly. Him and I were working on our jointly owned boat in Cordova, Ak and he got a stomach ache. A few days later he was diagnosed with stage 4 Pancreatic Cancer. Ten days later he died. We had a few days to say goodbye. The very last beer I shared with my Dad was sitting on the flying bridge of his Boat in what was going to be his retirement home in Florida. I asked him what he wanted done at his funeral. In my Dad's characteristic humor he said he wanted me to build a Viking ship and put him on it, pushing it out to sea. i laughed and said that I'd probably go to jail for that. Then we hatched this plan. My family are commercial fishermen from Cordova, Alaska. We lived on the water. My dad always hoped he was of Viking descent. He was intensely disappointed to find out we were not when DNA tests became available. I wanted to share these pics and the video with you guys (my brothers in craftsmanship), but it was too close to the event. It was too personal. Enough time has passed, and I think it's okay to show you what we did. I say "we," because this build was like a long goodbye to my Dad. He was the woodworker. I was the metal guy. I had never built anything more complex than a small cabin out of wood. I had a lot of long conversations with him during this build. Most of them were in the form of: "I know, Dad! But we don't have time to redo that bit. Your funeral is in like seven days!" My buddy Shane Harvey designed this scale model of a Viking Longship from blueprints obtained from the Copenhagen museum in Denmark in CAD and then cut the keel and ribs on his CNC plywood cutter. He also did the dragon head and the small shields with my Dad's initials (RS) on them. The cutting of the cedar planks (each one cut on a table saw by me), the glue up, etc. took almost 20 days of intense work. I totally underestimated the amount of time it would take. All the lessons I had to learn as I went . . . Just in time I had it stained, varnished, and loaded onto my truck for the ferry ride to Cordova. We loaded the boat up with things my Dad loved. Including the very first sword I ever made when I was 12 with his help (ground from a long file), his favorite hat, a jar of peanut butter (his favorite food), and a gin and tonic in a viking horn (not traditional, but it was his drink). And then we set it on fire. It burned until it swamped, and then we sunk it in a bay that he loved. Anyway, hope you like the build. It's not a blade, but I know you guys well enough to know you'll be okay with this off topic post. Cheers, Dave PS: Drone footage by Shane Harvey.
  2. 2 points
    When the smoker door catches the cord for the meat thermometer and yanks the turkey out of the smoker. If no one else saw it hit the ground, did it really happen?
  3. 2 points
    It has a little surface rust on if from people trying to finger the pattern but that won't affect the way it chops wood.
  4. 1 point
    Yep. Wrought iron is the original composite material. It's made from nearly pure iron shot through with iron silicate slag fibers. The original method (bloomery forge) did this naturally. After full industrialization came in, they would replicate it by tossing a cast iron billet (a "pig") into a reverberatory furnace full of molten slag and raking it around until it was both decarburized and was thoroughly mixed with the slag. This process was called "puddling." The resulting ball (also called a bloom) then got squished, rolled, and forged to remove most of the slag and to make sure the iron fibers were all running in the same direction. I left out about fifty different stages of refinement in the process that took place between around 500 BC and 1854 AD, but you get the idea. All that processing is what makes the pattern, just like pattern welding. To make it even more fun, wrought will etch different colors depending on the phosphorus and manganese content. it has a color range from pure silver to black, with every shade of gray in between. The last wrought iron to be industrially produced was in the late 1950s in England, in a puddling mill near Birmingham, unless the Soviets were making it as well. I have no idea if they ever did. The last U.S. wrought was made around 1935. Today if you want some you have to find old scrap or make it yourself via the bloomery process.
  5. 1 point
    Thank you Alan!!!! It was an extremely fun project....I hope it serves me well for many years to come.
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    Only if someone asks while picking dirt (or in my case, dog hair) out of their teeth.....
  8. 1 point
    This time, Germanic hinged buckles from the first centuries AD and also a Germanic tomb set in production: knife,belt end, scissors, four-piece buckle, firestarter, spear.
  9. 1 point
    New member first post so don’t beat me up too bad. I’ve been welding 50 years since I was 12. Made my own go cart frame using rebar and a lawn mower it was bad. Bad bad not badass bad. I learned to weld for real at 14 in FFA loved it been making stuff ever since. Own 3 welders now, Red AC cracker box, 120 volt CO2/Argon mig wire and a TIG/DC. All red except for my blue 875 plasma cutter. Of course got a couple of the oxy-acety torch’s. My opinion using my propane forge, a good #5 welding lense should be fine for an acetylene torch or forge. A #10 is more for stick and wire (ARC) welding. Have you ever watched a solar eclipse? Sun glasses don’t work, #5 is to light but a #10 is just right. A little too dark for a forge. Is a forge bright as the sun? I’d have to google it. Most blade, horse shoe guys don’t even wear clear safety glasses. Even Will Willis doesn’t unless their testing a blade. Its kinda up to the user. If you like seeing, safety is #1. I’d say a #5 would be fine. Wear it or clear lenses just to protect your eyes. I know another local expert blade maker who wears a breathing respirator like when spray painting a car when forging. Hell, my dad was an old school tuff guy. He used to stick weld without a hood. But he was blinded in one eye and didn’t see well with his good one, almost deaf. He had fingers missing and 7 back surgeries. He lived to 83 tho, passed in 06. I learned a lot watching him. Learned a lot of what NOT to do. Still got 8 fingers and 2 thumbs arthritic as they are and 2 good eyes. Experiment, see what works best. Any good welding quality oxy-acety lense should be okay. Full face tinted shields are nice. Home Depot, Tractor Supply, Airgas or any welding dealer should have some. Cheap & scratched ones are better than nothing. Just my 2 cents and 38 years engineering experience with electric utility company suggestion. (insert Disclaimer here) Be safe for Gods sake. Make blades a long time. Is it okay to say hell, Lincoln or Miller or Home Depot on forum? Let me know if I infringe any copyrights. Thanks for opportunity to join in. I enjoy all the posts and still smart enough to learn from everyone. MW Wow that was long. Sorry took up so much space. ;^). MW
  10. 1 point
    Gerhard, I learned one very important thing a couple of months ago. I watched an interview of Tony Bose on YouTube, and the guy asked him how long he takes to make a single blade folding knife. Tony said he takes three days average. Now he is considered to be the best slipjoint maker alive. I always thought a single blade can be made in a day, two days max. After watching that video I slowed everything down and my quality jumped to a new level. To make a good knife means taking the time to do everything right, right from the first step. So my advice: don't rush it.
  11. 1 point
    Some silver would look really nice as a spacer too! Looking really good man. Cant wait to see it finished.
  12. 1 point
    The pointy moss does work better. I just hope whoever buys it understands just how finicky the process of making it was!
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