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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/24/2020 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Just finished these off... shame I have no gas for my forge. Was keen to give these a try. They are bolted together right now but once I can light the forge I'll use the bolt as a rivet. Any feed back?
  2. 5 points
    My Lady Wife has been part of the local Fur Trade re-enactors group for a long time. This sheath was a gift from a friend in the group and it housed a cheap knife. When we moved years ago it got buried in the bottom of gear bag and it surfaced last year. I decided to make a blade for sheath and this is it. Random damascus blade about 7 inches long, elk tine and a osage spacer. Fast little sticker guy The sheath is brain tan deer over raw hide. The beads are typical trade stuff, probably high Plains style, Crow maybe or Shoshone. I think they look good together. Geoff
  3. 5 points
    It turned out OK... Howdy.. OK this was suppose to be a really looong seax but...it sorta got away from me and well..this is what I wound up with.. I am so sick of doing the Japanese stuff that I needed to get something European done..so I wanted to do a three core Seax for that show we are going to next weekend as an eye catcher... you know... lure the unsuspecting in and then.. I got them!! It didn't quite turn out that way though... Now I started out welding up some 1070, L-6 and some SS heat treat foil in my starting faggot of 75 layers.. welded that up...drew that out and split off the cores and did a twist/counter twist off set interrupt and then welded on the edge steel...cut and did the tip...all was well...BUT.....this is where I got lost and this is what happens when I loose my train of thought and let my feeble mind wander all over..thought about doing something with a yelman and then that turned into something recurved and double fullered and then...well...it is a terrible thing when a mind melts into forge jello in the middle of a project..So here it is... Oh,..twin fullers are a PITA enough on a straight blade..on a curvy one??? ouch!! Blade length is 31"...two fullers each side..on to the Yelman and the other a wee bit short of the tip. Yelman length is 11 1/2" Fittings are forged phosphor bronze and the grip is fossil Bos Taurus Ivory.. This is one mean puppy of a sword..Looks like something out of E.R. Burroughs's John Carter series if you ask me...You will never know how many times I laid up on a hill side in my youth wanting to be taken to Barsoom...That didn't work either...I am starting to see a pattern here... Well here it is in all of its glory... Hope these photos work out. JPH (By the way I was 100% sober when I did his...alcohol had no part in the design...)
  4. 2 points
    I actually made this one back in October/November as a Yule gift for my girlfriend's Wiccan girlfriend, but realized I forgot to share it. We knew that she didn't have an athame (too expensive, she said, but she's the type to not feel like she NEEDS one, either), and figured it would be a nice gift. I'm not Wiccan, myself, but I tried to be considerate of her beliefs and intent, and my girlfriend provided me with input on that. The blade is recycled farrier's rasp (both the recycling and the connection to horses are good things for her particular beliefs), with a yew handle (apparently the best wood for magic conduction) and natural-death horsehide spacers (the horse connection again), and copper pins (also good for magic conduction). Since Wicca is big on 3's, doing a triple normalize/quench seemed appropriate, and I did it on the night of a Full Frost Moon. She was very excited to unwrap it, and I hope it serves her well, even if I don't totally get it
  5. 2 points
    I managed to get into the shop today, the first time since November due to a reoccurring bout of pneumonia, While I was away from the shop I had an idea. to shape the bevels on my blades I have used a filing jig, although slow it enabled me to get the bevels symmetrical, I struggled with this on the belt grinder!. I drilled a hole in the grinder handle and inserted a length of stainless rod. For the guide rod, I then welded two washers on to a vine eye, for the front guide and drilled them out to accept the guide rod.......... Simple! It seems to work well although I haven't tried it properly, yet. But when tested on a scrap piece of 1075c a clean bevel was formed, I think that with a little practice this will be an invaluable tool in my workshop.
  6. 2 points
    Got more work done on this "little" thing. Next is glue and handle carving.
  7. 1 point
    I'm getting a bit ahead of myself, but I've cleared a major hurdle, some 3mm thick 1070 headed my way soon. Correctly or not, I figured my chances of getting the blade and backspring the same thickness any other way was slim, still no joy with the VW Beetle torsion springs. I have a little wooden Canoe pattern knife kit that I plan to use as a template, one blade only for a start. Plan on using engraving brass for the liners and solder on bolsters. One thing I'm unsure about is my plan to use 4mm brass rod for the pins. I use these regularly on my knives so I have 4.1mm drill bits ready to go. So is 4mm too thick? Should I rather drill the blade 4mm and fit the pin as tight as possible? The part I dread the most is assembly and peening the pins, my only plan so far is to make a jig using some massively thick MS flatbar I have lying around. Basically just duplicate the pin holes in the flatbar. Is it feasible to only add the scales after the worst of the above is done? How long & hot to get a spring temper on the 1070?
  8. 1 point
    I'm working on mounting this serpent core broken back seax blade I forged last year. Blade has a silver steel edge bar, then a bar of wrought iron. Core is two bars of low contrast twist with a 15n20 trim, set in high Mn mild, and there's another strap of wrought on top. Handle is burr elm, with a horn and bone bolster: I'm wondering if the flare on the butt end of the handle is too much? What do you think?
  9. 1 point
    So back in late November I was asked by the Early American Industries Association member if I would be interested in doing a video for them. I could use his shop and he would get another member who is a photographer and older film maker.. Of course I said sure as I love to support organizations that fall in line with my blacksmithing alignments.. So the first week of December I had my buddy George Becker go over to the Moses Wilder Blacksmithing shop in Bolton, MA and he swung sledge to make up the story board out of 5/8" wrought iron. Weekend before last we met at the shop and I proceeded to forge at the chisel seen in the photo. I did not do the ferrules or the wood work. I basically forged the blade, heat treated it and put on the initial sharpening and split. Leaving the handle and handle work to the Owner of the blacksmithing shop. Here is a link to the video as well. Was fun.
  10. 1 point
    With the hot-dog-inna-bun weld it'd just give it some curve, possibly in the wrong direction... Go for the damascus, it's actually easier!
  11. 1 point
    The business end of the craft....paperwork and scheduling.
  12. 1 point
    Nice score! Whatever you do for a contact wheel will cost more than the machine, but be well worth it. If you need something custom made, or if the parts from the manufacturer are too pricey, call Sunray. I had them do the contact wheel for my surface grinder conversion and they price was less than half of what Contact Rubber Corp. wanted to charge me. The 1100RPM motor seems a bit slow unless it's got a monster drive pulley. Oh, and Alan, if you look at the fact that the Space Saver was intended to replace huge backstand grinders, it IS a lot smaller.
  13. 1 point
    That is extremely pretty @Joël Mercier
  14. 1 point
    Yep, that ought to eat some steel... Some of the big ones, like the improbably-named Bader Space Saver, can use hard felt wheels as contact wheels. These can be a bit less expensive than the usual rubber on steel. The Space Saver is nominally a 3 x 132" machine, but will run any width. I bet your new monster will as well.
  15. 1 point
    My most hated part is having to start over again after a week of work on a engraved damascus blade due to a hidden weld flaw. sometimes I wish I had chosen to collect stamps or something as a hobby. At the risk of sounding like a heretic, I´d have to say that I dislike making damascus the most, the high cost of material and fuel combined with the high possibility of random failure just sucks most of the fun out of that process for me. However I do really like the end result so I keep doing it, and the first etch on a finished blade is worth the effort. I actually like finishing and handle making the most, after finish grinding there is not much more that can go wrong and it is just steady work to a finished piece.
  16. 1 point
    And I took the chisel apart to give it a proper finish since originally I had to run when I was done at the video shoot.. Sadly the orginal washer got cracked when I tried to open it up some when it was cold to fit it a little better. so had to make a new washer.
  17. 1 point
    Howdy: On the photos...hey it is tradition that I have lousy photos...If I start getting good ones folks will start to think that I am not me any more... I never said I was any sort of photographer person ..far from it but I do my best.. On the pins,.,.they are domed and I have to pre-drill the right sized hole so the grip material will not split/crack.the last thing I want is a grip to crack open...not a good thing to have happen at all... Ref the twin fullers...doing these are a bit tedious as far as spacing and depth but using a fly press makes it a good deal less nerve wracking but still they are a pain..but they sure look nice..makes the thing look "finished"..at least to me it does... Happy ya'all like it...this is going to the Gator Knife Show down here next weekend.. if it lasts that long..these things have a way of selling rather quickly.. Which in itself isn't a bad thing.. JPH
  18. 1 point
    He put it up in the Design and Critique forum. It looks a hell of a lot better than my first dozen knives!
  19. 1 point
    A few blades cut out and ready for the rough pre heat grinds apart from the stainless chef and petty knives on the left which get ground after heat treat.
  20. 1 point
    A fuller for making my viking hammers. a bolster for making my viking hammers. Its intended to be used to drive the drift in from the bottom side without mucking up the peaks of the cheeks. It's made for a bigger hammer than what's shown, this was just for a representation. and a rivet header for ⅜ and ½ inch rivets made from forklift fork. I still need to put a handle on it though.
  21. 1 point
    He's got to finish it first!
  22. 1 point
    $660 in 2004. I would let it go for the small sum of $4000
  23. 1 point
    I Forgot to say that I'm happy you are going to try folders this year!
  24. 1 point
    The funny thing is, it's the mild steel that causes the issue. If that had been plain 1095 it would've been fine. It's the same phenomenon that causes the curve in a katana, the unhardened back pulls the edge up while it's still hot enough to move, but not cool enough for full martensite conversion. The blade nosedives, then slowly curves back up. With san mai it can't do that since there's unhardened on both sides. If the core steel gets fully hard before the cladding shrinks, it has no choice but to tear down the middle.
  25. 1 point
    To add to what Brian said (and I use 3/32" pins for pivots and bolster, 1/16" for scales), if you want to pin the scales you have to do that before final assembly of the knife. They work by having a little countersink inside the liner. You could conceivably have the holes drilled and countersunk, and add the scales last if you put a chunk of steel the exact width of the blade channel in the knife to act as an anvil, but I wouldn't trust it. It's really best to attach the scales with the liners off the knife.
  26. 1 point
    I've been using 1075 for my springs. I quench just like I do the blade, then temper the spring to 530F (276c). The spring usually gets tempered with the blade each cycle, and then one extra cycle at the higher temp, but I just do this for convenience and have no idea waht it does to the metallurgy. I've been using smaller pins than that, but I think it depends on the scale of the knife. Lately I have been using 1/16" (~1.5mm) pins to hold the scales on and the spring in place. I like using 1/8" (~3mm) pins for the pivot. My blades have been between 2.5" and 3". I literally use a 1.5oz hammer to peen the pins. Lots of light taps. I try to get the holes tighter than 0.1mm. Depending on the pin stock you are using, you may be able to get away with the exact drill size. Alternately, I use some 0.001" over-sized reamers.
  27. 1 point
    Spent a couple of nights carving the handle of this one, and it's getting pretty close to what I originally envisioned when I started forging it:
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