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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/10/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Here is the knife I made for myself. I broke off quite a bit of tip when trying to straighten it - we only had time for a 30 minute tempering cycle. I also did not have the right clay at the shop, so the hamon is not particularly inspired. However, it performed well against the purchases from the farmers market :-)
  2. 2 points
    Hi all, here a Viking knife i make last summer. Blade from our friend Ondrey. Back from folded wrought iron, cutting edge from very sharp W5 Steel. The blade is 140mm long, 28mm high and 5.5mm thick by the handle. Handle from carved, 5000 years old bog Oak. Leather sheath with colored carving. Ruggero
  3. 2 points
    Well once again I decided that I wasn't satisfied with the handle for this blade so I got started on making #3. I guess that I'm getting a little fussy in my old age but if it doesn't feel right, I'm not going to finish it. I went with a more traditional look this time which should appeal to a higher percentage of customers. Since I'm planning on taking this one to The Arkansas Show, that should be a good thing. Here are the components roughed out & ready for sand & polish:
  4. 2 points
    So here she is after helping build the stand- gonna recess the anvil 1/2 inch and she will be ready to swing! Took us about 4 hours longer than doing the project by myself- but MAN- What a good day... Now on to build my stand and get this little chick SWINGING! Guys- sorry about the dad-bragging- but Im just stoked she wants to "play" and learn... not just cash out into the digital world... (and to be honest- it helps keep me wanting to "play" in the shop too!)
  5. 1 point
    While I like where you are going (particularly the guard), I really was looking forward to see what you were going to do with the first inlaid coffin handle. Hope you will use it in one of your other excellent period pieces.
  6. 1 point
    First attempt at a straight razor. I made a small billet of 26c3/wrought iron San Mai at a hammer in last fall and I cut the profile on the bandsaw and refined with files. It's funny how we can already clearly see the core just with some rough filing. I did normalize the whole billet beforehand so the core was dead soft, yet shown different texture than the wrought. I just hope the wrought didn't suck too much carbon out of the core, even though 26c3 has plenty
  7. 1 point
    Some good looking workmanship, lots of things you will look back on and groan when you have made another couple of dozen! Main thing, functionally, is the protruding bits of handle scale over the blade, they will be very vunerable to chipping off, and they will get in the way for thinning / sharpening! Aesthetically, to my eye, a bit 'stabbier' profile would look sharper, and where the mosaic pins are on the angle transition on one scale looks a bit odd, as does the scale being shy of the underside of the handle! Keep at it!
  8. 1 point
    Welcome to the madness! Listen to Garry, he's skinned out more critters than many and understands what works. Doug made very good points too. I like the leather, looks funky.
  9. 1 point
    Loving those detailed photos. Thanks for taking the time to take them.
  10. 1 point
    been watching Kyle Royer for a long time now, almost since i started. in my opinion, he is right up there alongside Walter Sorrels in terms of how much i have learnt from them.
  11. 1 point
    I scratched the itch Ive had since I got a stablising set up, and ran a batch of OSB! ive paired it with 5000 year old bog oak, and a bit of white G10 for the spacer. Its defineatly a functional handle. just cant decide if its awful or not!
  12. 1 point
    Reassemble the entire blade and scribe a line around the spacer on the front end of the block. You now have reference lines that are parallel and in line with the center line of the blade. They should travel completely around the profile of the handle block. Now remove the handle block and measure points along the lines to establish additional parallel lines around the profile. Connect the dots using the flexible straightedge. You now have reference lines for your grinding. This makes it much easier to see where symmetry is, and where it isn't. Tomorrow, I will start shaping the handle. More pics to come.
  13. 1 point
    So the block of wood is never really parallel to the blade, so you have to transfer the line of the blade around the profile of the wood and carve/grind the handle to it. I assemble the pieces. There are blind pins holding everything together. The nickel-silver spacer is a tight fit, so everything is keyed off of that. Then I put the knife in a vice blade down and lay a very sooth piece of steel against the ricasso area. Lay a ruler or straightedge against the metal piece. And draw a line with a pencil. Repeat for side two. This marks the center line down the back, or spine of the handle.
  14. 1 point
    Then remembering where you set them down...... I have a bunch of photos for the next steps in this handle. The bird head is a tricky thing for me. It needs to be symmetrical side to side and the "beak" needs to be centered on the body and in line with the guard and blade. The handle itself needs to stay centered and straight in line with the blade. The radii of the sides need to be even and match. Some guys are good at eyeballing that sort of thing. I'm not, so I developed a little method for aiding me in keeping everything lined up and equal. There will be about 4 different posts in the whole thing, and we have a dinner date to go to, so stay tuned.
  15. 1 point
    The machines make it easier, but it is still possible with hand tools or lesser machines. It just takes a little longer and more careful attention. The pins are drilled into the spacer with a drill press. You can do the same with a hand drill. He uses the hand drill to match the pins holes to the handle material by using superglue to get the spacer attached to the handle in the correct place. He uses a metal lathe to turn the pommel nut. I have used a hand drill and my disc sander (or belt grinder) to achieve the same result. It just took longer and a lot more care. I have also used my drill press and a file. Of course you can. Most of his finishing is done with hand sanding. He only shows a small portion of it (and in fast forward), but it took a lot of time, and very fine sandpaper. He does use a stationary buffer, but they also make buffing wheels for a hand drill or Dremel. Cratex wheels are a rubberized abrasive medium meant to be used in a rotary tool. I use the small ones in my Dremel. They also make larger versions for use with a buffer or bench grinder. Either size can be mounted in a hand drill and used on the part clamped in a vice. Either the tool or the work piece needs to be securely held. Kyle uses Cratex wheels to polish the pommel nut while it is still in the lathe, and to polish the tight corners on the guard, and to polish various stages on what looks like a bench grinder.
  16. 0 points
    Well... this is just annoying. Why do I keep trying to make things go faster with the grinder!!! At least it’s just aesthetic and it won’t effect the performance. I’ll buff the plunge lines so that I blend the slip on the grinder with the plunge, so it doesn’t look as ugly.
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