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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/07/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I'm on day 27 of not leaving my property. Thank god I've got a blade project to putter with. Here is a blade I just finished grinding/etching. I started it up in Alaska last Summer and mailed it down to FL for the post heat treat work. Standard 1095/15n20 mix. Twisted crushed W's make up the alternating bars under the fuller. Edge bar is a san-mai type w/ a 1000 layer core and 200 layer wrapping. Some highlight stripes between the bars. More when the fittings and grip are applied. I'm not going to rush, however. It's the only blade I have to work on, so once it's done I'm stuck w/ just mowing the lawn and pushups for entertainment. OAL is around 16" Anyone recognize this blade shape? It may seem familiar. Grins, Dave
  2. 3 points
    Well it just needs an edge, so not entirely finished. Apparently I figured the bevels all the way up the blade not at all intending that it would be a full flat ground blade. Anyways that beside the point. Very old file steel, I think it’s W2 polished convex bevels, and a very clean distal taper down the spine Its going to be a laser once I sharpen it Here are some pics of it. In another week the tulips will bloom and spring time will officially have reached my backyard in the sun all the little scratches that it’s already taken on are showing up. How about some critique? What do ya like/don’t like, what should I do differently next time? Definitely my best work so far, at least for a fourth knife.
  3. 2 points
    This is my latest Bowie. Hand forged from 1095 high carbon steel. The guard is from 1018 mild steel. The handle is Sonoran Desert Ironwood. The overall length is 15-1/4 inches.
  4. 2 points
    I have been working on the idea of this for a while...patternwelded inlay(ish) ...this is patternweld with sterling silver spacers and inlay/
  5. 2 points
    Y'all do know who Tim is, right? Ever used or recommended a forge made from an adobe-filled washtub blown with a hair dryer? AKA the Lively-type forge?
  6. 2 points
    Heat treat went well, its currently in the temper at 400 degrees. Here are some pics pre heat treat, i clean up the spine to make it flow better with the rest of the blade.
  7. 1 point
    This strange fellow is the Comb Crested Jacana. It has huge feet which enables it to walk over the waterlilies. I often come across them when fishing the fresh water billabongs.
  8. 1 point
    Out of the blue a friend who has much better welding skills than I ( just look at the handle I welded on my billet ) called me and said he had something for me. I was blown away when he presented me with a grinder he had made for me. Now I finally can put my Ryobi to rest. Anyhow I was inspired to take to the forge yesterday so I made a small billet of 1075 and 15n20 and forged up this kitchen knife. As I mostly do my bevels with files this was a bit of a learning curve but I am excited at the possibilities with a bit more practice grinding. It is in the temper oven now and I will post up more pics when finished.
  9. 1 point
    Yesterday I ground the profile on the more curved small Messer I'm working on, and immediately said nope, too much curve. So today I straightened it out some and also bent the tang downward a little more. It looks and feels much better now, though I'll need to touch up the profile again after forging.
  10. 1 point
    The original blades. I made reproductions of both of them.
  11. 1 point
    My Wash Tub Forge design starts with a commonly available wash tub of course. I used a 1 inch diameter black pipe for a tuyere with 1/4 inch holes spaced 1 inch apart. The wash tub is lined with adobe, a mixture of clay, sand and wood ashes. The hand crank blower I used is a Champion 60a. I originally used a Champion 400 but got this little blower at the ABANA gathering in Flagstaff, Arizona in 2000. I paid a whopping $25 for it then. Since then I've seen this little blower go for as high as $250 on eBay. Any blower will work but I like the little one for portability and it has plenty of power. I've used half a dozen different blowers for power over the years but my current set up is a 60a again. I love this little aluminum blower. There are imported copies available but none work as well as the original Champion 60a. Electric one work too but I prefer the control of the hand cranked version myself. Commonly asked questions are - Will the galvanized tub get hot enough to create poisonous fumes? NO! Can I use something other than clay for adobe? Some types of kitty litter will work. Do I put straw in the adobe mix? No, it creates voids when heated and makes the structure weaker. Here's another photo that might help people figure out how to make one for themselves.
  12. 1 point
    8 days of not leaving home has me getting stuff done around the house. My youngest son has been on me about getting a tire swing set up so I used the spare mud tire for my truck in the background.
  13. 1 point
    It's a small detail, but I like the little double notch at the choil.
  14. 1 point
    Hi Jake Sorry for the hijack but I seem to be struggling with finding information on these spears. Do you perhaps have any more information or links about these? Thanks, CdP PS, I did find the bit on bushcraftusa you posted (https://bushcraftusa.com/forum/threads/yakut-knives-useful-for-bushcraft.273546/).
  15. 1 point
    Not if you flare the spacer package.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Nice pics. !!...............
  18. 1 point
    Here is a knife I recently made for myself for field dressing small game and fish. It is forged from 1095 with a 1018 guard. The seppa and ferrule are coin silver. The handle is Sonoran Desert Ironwood. The overall length is 9 inches.
  19. 1 point
    Week 2 of doing remote support work from the "sitting room" of my bachelor flat, more sitting than usual, aggravating, frustrating, so when I disconnect that vpn and slam shut that notebook, the dog gets a walk around the block and the knives stay untouched... Managed to make 4 Mohair wool bolsters this weekend, figured out on average 18m of wool does the job so the second lot went quicker. Doubled up the wool, still, getting 9m of doubled up wool into the resin and wound up onto the tang in between the clamps is not for the faint-hearted....much acetone was used afterwards...even on my face
  20. 1 point
    I'm still a beginner, but I decided to jump in way over my head and make a bauernwehr. I had never tried making a knife this large, or with such a complicated hilt. I wasn't going to put a chape on it, but I screwed the pooch so badly that I had to hide my mistake. I'd love to try again, but this time make a lot of changes in my process. The blades are O1 tool steel Hilt and nagel are mild steel Grip scales are European Red Deer antler
  21. 1 point
    Slavic TRYGLAV 2 meters high. 1 meter around the perimeter. Ash tree. Started with the growing moon and finished today.
  22. 1 point
    Maybe incorporate it somehow into an opaki knife handle or karambit sheath
  23. 1 point
    Been picking away over the last few days. I managed to get the main components of the handle fitted today. Picture sucks like normal. This is my first crack at a thru tang so I've been kind of feeling my way through it. I only screwed up 1 handle blank, so not too bad. Still need to trim the handle down to size and start on the buttplate, maybe tomorrow.
  24. 1 point
    “Far over the misty mountains cold, To dungeons deep and caverns old, We must away, Ere break of day, To claim our long forgotten Gold the latest Seax by Myself and Petr Florianek... My blade but Petr has surpassed himself with the blade carving , handle and sheath ...My fave to date. hope you like it. [
  25. 1 point
    Hello.... For over 11 years I have been working on traditional Japanese edged weapon, specifically grinding and polishing blades and making rim of swords. I use traditional materials and their modern modified analogues. Forging and heat treatment of blades are done by my friend Dmitry, he is a professional blacksmith and gunsmith with experience over 10 years. Since 2016, i began making art knives, in the styles: cyberpunk / bio-mechanics, using some of the best materials and precious metals. I try to do all the work in the highest quality, studying new technologies and do various experiments with design. Showing my last work, just as interesting, I will show my later work ... Aikuchi "The Black Moon" Authors: Daniil Izotov / Dmitry Chebukin. Blade: steel 9xs, 305/30/5 mm (length with handle 45 cm, in sheath 49)traditional grinding / polishing. Frame: magnolia, epoxy enamel, silver, copper. Sageo cord, kara-kumi weaving style.
  26. 1 point
    Latest two brut blades. Think I'm just about satisfied with this and ready to move on to something else.
  27. 1 point
    Got this one finished up, bar for the sharpening this evening. I forged the blade last year, and it was not very pretty, left it too thick from the hammer, and its fought me right the way through as a consequence! - Core is not centered, but its servicable. The blade is from pre-laminated san mai, with stainless cheeks, and aogami super blue core - The handle is home stabalised spalted beech, and stabalised bog oak. Not sure if I like it yet, but that might be a consequence of it kicking around the shop for so long. I will put it away for a few days, and look at it with new eyes when I sharpen it! All feedback appreciated, as ever
  28. 1 point
    Forging the Blade The raw material for this blade spent most of the last century on a former homestead. A large portion of the steel was used for another blade, this was the piece cut from half of the left side. Slowly drying the clay for yaki-ire over the embers in the charcoal forge. After yaki-ire, an #80 grit Sun Tiger stone reveals the approximate hamon as the geometry is set. Habaki Habaki forged to shape in preparation for silver soldering in the charcoal forge. The habaki is textured with files and patinated using a blend of copper salts similar to rokusho. Ireko Saya A two part black buffalo horn (ura) and blond cow horn (omote) lock keeps the two halves aligned when joined. The omote half contains the edge entirely and has an oil collecting reservoir at the tip. The ura half does not contain the edge, keeping it entirely in the omote half. Kataki Tsuka & Saya The hardwood block is split and carved out to fit the ireko saya and the tang and then rejoined using sokui (rice paste glue). This wood is very hard on tools and they require frequent sharpening. Nori-urushi, a mixture of natural urushi lacquer and sokui is used to reinforce certain areas, particularly the koiguchi where the wood is thinner. Mixing the urushi and sokui along with a bit of extra water to help it cure inside the joint. It can take at least a month to fully cure nori-urushi inside a wood joint, more time is better for strength. After the nori-urushi is fully cured the tsuka and saya are shaped with kanna and smoothed with fine rasps and the horn mekugi peg is fitted. An antler crown and tip are used to form a very organic kurikata (栗形, a cord loop) and obidome (帯留, “belt stop”), usually called kaerizuno (返角, “turn-back horn”). The antler kurikata is fit to the saya using a carved sliding dovetail, with no room to spare! The kurikata slides in from one side and then tightens as it reaches the final position. The obidome has a tenon that fits into a mortise carved in the saya, again carved right to the ireko saya. The obidome/kaerizuno will be attached with sokui after the saya is lacquered. In preparation for lacquering, the open grain is cleared of dust using a stiff brush. Ready for fukiurushi, the thin layer of wiped on urushi will preserve the interesting surface texture of the wood. After the lacquer has cured the surface has become a rich, glossy dark chocolate colour. Polishing Once all the parts are made and fitted the blade can be taken through the final polishing stages using Japanese waterstones. The natural #700 used to remove the last of the arato/kongo-do stone scratches. Several stones later, hazuya and jizuya fingerstones made from flakes of uchigumori-do and narutaki-do koppa attached to washi paper with natural urushi are used to even the surface and add depth. This stage is very time consuming as is the uchigumori-do before it. The fine surface grain of the steel brought out by the uchigumori stone throws multiple colours in sunlight. Final Assembly A look at all the koshirae parts before assembly Antler kurikata and obidome attached using sokui and tapped into place with a small mallet. Inserting the ireko saya into the koshirae. Completed aikuchi koshirae. Furusato tanto forged from reclaimed antique steel. View of the spine with peaked iori mune. Macro detail of the interesting texture of the Tshikalakala wood pores.
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