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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/19/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I'm pretty sure that's a Jersey pattern Emerson & Steven's Co. Axe. Here is a video on how they were made.
  2. 1 point
    You can definitely see the steeled edge, nice! I'm not great at guessing factory axes, but that's a nice one. Not Craftsman. Handles get replaced, and as far as I know none of the old makers marked their handles. Which reminds me of the old story of "That's Grandpa's axe. It's had five new handles and two new heads, but it's his axe!"
  3. 1 point
    Delivered this one last night, so I had to check one of the others. 13" OAL 8.5" Blade. 2" at the heel. 1/8" at the thickest spot.
  4. 1 point
    I think the vinegar soak has given it a little character as now you can clearly see the difference between the hard steel and the soft steel. That crack has survived in that axe head all these years proving it not a flaw to worry about. A carpenters axe is not meant to be used like a big felling axe anyway. Although seeing it in your hand there makes me wonder about its weight and dimensions. And grandpa took care of that axe as the poll has not been mushroomed! The shape of the eye tells me that your not going to have a hard time getting a handle to fit it. A standard handle should fit, but I'm betting that the handle on it was short. When I think of a carpenter and an axe I'm thinking up close cuts to rough out shapes from rough cut lumber.
  5. 1 point
    I see what you're talking about. But without a better look I can't tell how deep the crack is. Most of these older axes were created by forge welding a carbon steel bit into a mild steel body, look up wrapped axe. If there wasn't a good weld, then the softer steel could be cracking along the seam. Either way, don't get a welder to fix it like Gerald said. It would ruin the temper of the axe which would have to be redone making you have to shine it up again. Just get a good hickory handle in it and make a proud wall hanger of it. And remember, often the beauty of a tool isn't how shiny it is, but in the age that it shows.
  6. 1 point
    Buy the right drill bit, the right tap and a wrench, although a good set of T&D are not a big investment. I have both a straight guide and the integral and I use them a lot. The carbides are nice because a 2x72 belt won't hurt them, you can use them on the grinder to shoulders and plunge lines. Geoff
  7. 1 point
    I use one of these http://www.billbehnkeknives.com/available_items.html. I met Bill in a hotel in Connecticut, he was coming in for his FiF finale, and I was flying out after filming my episode. The guide works great, I love mine. Another way to deal with integrals (and I know of at least one other maker who does this) is to not make a tang at all. Drill into the bolster (pre HT) and tap it. I use a grade 8 bolt for the tang. A bit of JB weld secures it. Then it's a simple matter to make the bolster flat. Geoff
  8. 1 point
    Following on the original post, looking for advice before going to that "point of no return (without major hassle)" i.e. spending more time finishing the handle off blade and then gluing the handle together. I have the handle squared and roughed to 150 grit. It is composed of a block of "Gerhard micarta" (cool stuff!), brass spacer, and Patagonian rosewood (or better known as curupau). Questions: 1. Opinion on how the handle looks relative to the blade (good, bad, indifferent, throw the whole thing out and start again...) 2. Placement of the pin (I am thinking of drilling back an equal distance as the micarta is thick) Thanks for feedback And I do need to re-etch the whole thing. The ricasso is shiny from having taken down the shoulders...
  9. 1 point
    Nice! Always fun to finally finish a feller (...sorry)
  10. 1 point
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