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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/21/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    A sad day. I finished this . . . no project to work on in quarantine now. So, the hell with this: I'm driving to Alaska. I start tomorrow. I just bought a 5th wheel camper and got diesel truck to tow her. Should take me 12 days. Wish me luck crossing the US/Canada border. They have closed it, but rumor has it they are letting Alaskan's through if they can prove they are residents. I'll post some photos. The handle on this one is copper, African Blackwood, moose antler, and more copper. Hope you guys like it. Dave
  2. 1 point
    I'm on day 27 of not leaving my property. Thank god I've got a blade project to putter with. Here is a blade I just finished grinding/etching. I started it up in Alaska last Summer and mailed it down to FL for the post heat treat work. Standard 1095/15n20 mix. Twisted crushed W's make up the alternating bars under the fuller. Edge bar is a san-mai type w/ a 1000 layer core and 200 layer wrapping. Some highlight stripes between the bars. More when the fittings and grip are applied. I'm not going to rush, however. It's the only blade I have to work on, so once it's done I'm stuck w/ just mowing the lawn and pushups for entertainment. OAL is around 16" Anyone recognize this blade shape? It may seem familiar. Grins, Dave
  3. 1 point
    Here's the latest in my sheath making. On left is a saddle tan. On the right is chocolate, it almost looks black. Hand saddle stitched. Both have a nice welt sewed in as not to cut the threads. These turned out fairly well I think. Learning on each one! Need to make another knife to try stamping/ carving leather.
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    Collar? A ferrule is usually a piece that goes around a handle, but that sort of fits () as well. A habaki is usually folded and soldered. I have made these sort of thing by milling it out of a single block, like this one Geoff
  6. 1 point
    You can get a mixed structure, but the file biting after hardening is usually due to surface decarburization. After a couple of strokes the file should skate.
  7. 1 point
    That could be, but based on descriptions of his habit from my Aunt and cousin (who is in on the present), I tend to think he collects chef knives like some people collect bowies / swords / etc. He has a LOT ! I do know he has no Damascus blades, so this one will be his first.
  8. 1 point
    Hi just shearing this viking ship inspired axe.
  9. 1 point
    The video was brilliant. Working in show business is like working at a dog park. Everyone is peeing on trees.
  10. 1 point
    And here it is all done.. I guess it didn’t come out too badly. now I just gotta finish that big fighter.
  11. 1 point
    Ok, so I reworked this based on Garry's feedback. I like it better this way, but will let the customer make the call.
  12. 1 point
    The biggest problem with old motor oil is it's not consistent, and there's no way of guessing how fast or slow it will be without a lot of testing. It absorbs water, which speeds it up, it stinks, it may be carcinogenic, etc. Real quench oils are graded by speed in seconds*, with slow oils for steels like O-1 rated as a 15-second oil, medium oil for 5160 is an 11-second oil, and fast oil for 1095 is a 7-second oil. Used motor oil can be anywhere on the spectrum. Hot canola is a 9 to 10 second oil, while cold canola is more like a 13-second oil. This makes it useful for pretty much all oil-hardening steels. The only downside is it can get rancid, and mice love to drown in it. You won't know until you quench, and then you'll be lucky to make it outside before you hurl from the smell. So, cover it tight when not in use! *this has nothing to do with how long you hold the blade in, it's from a test involving a 1" nickel ball and the curie point. If you're nerdy as I am and want to know exactly where it came from, look up "G.M. Quenchometer test."
  13. 1 point
    It's so rare for the maker to get credit on screen that I'm not sure it's ever actually happened. Weta Workshop for LOTR, but that's about it. The named armorers in the credits usually don't make the stuff, they just procure it. But yes, one or two steels for glamor shots, the rest either aluminum or rubber with a carbon fiber core. It's funny, I've met three or four guys who have made movie prop swords, and their names are never in the credits. You just have to know. Like, Jody Samson made the original Atlantean sword for Conan the Barbarian, Gil Hibben did most of the Klingon blades for Star Trek TNG the TV series, and a couple of guys here on the forums have done a few as well but don't mention it for contractual reasons. Lots of NDCs in show biz. If you want to hear what one of said guys I've met who do movie swords has to say about the whole deal, check out
  14. 1 point
    In that case, you need to read this: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QQ4NLkfXFWwMeYxNq-dCa81iDRbpdo7T
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