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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/18/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I don't make normal things, and this is one of the more eccentric projects i have completed. A vaguely tanto inspired letter opener that pairs a san mai blade with a lovely bit of two tone blackwood. The blade resembles dawn over dark mountains, and the two tone case pairs with it perfectly. The reverse side of the blade is very different. pure dark heartwood, and a blade that is mostly dark, with pools of light. I like the contrast between the two sides. Everyone here knows that the difference in the steel is caused by simply grinding more on one side of the san mai, and that you cannot deliberately plan what pattern will come out. Origionally i was going to make the reverse side pure black, grind the nickel layer right out of it, but that would have made the blade too thin, and i liked the 'pools' that were appearing, so i left it like that. sometimes the steel dictates what it wants to be. A few pics of the internal construction, this is 'visually' tanto inspired, but it is not built like a true tanto Tsuka/saya. Raw materials Nickel silver spacer. this was required to keep the sapwood on the outside lining up, because i didnt have a saw fine or accurate enough to split and re-glue the wood without losing appreciable thickness. i also really like the silver spacer, i like it visually and it adds a nice weight and cool touch to the saya. The saya is felt lined and has a rubber seat along the bottom edge and the front to protect the blade in its tight fitting space. Glued it up as a squared block before final shaping. Ready for final assembly The blade is not a stainless/carbon san mai. it is carbon/carbon sandwich with two nickel layers. the bright/dark contrast was acheived with nail varnish painted on the top part pre-coffee etching. the effect with stainless clad carbon would have been better, but you have to work with what you got! A wierd project, but most of it totally new to me and i enjoyed the shit out of making it. and it feels mighty satisfying in the hand, tight fit, weighty, the blackwood is gorgeous, it polishes down to a glass like feel. Enjoy
  2. 2 points
    I'm surprised no one's mentioned the 67 lb knife anvil from Atlas: http://www.atlasknife.com/product/atlas-anvil/
  3. 1 point
    I finally grew up and got myself a 2x72 grinder. This is the first knife I finished on it. It's a left handed santoku forged out of 1084. It has a bronze bolster with a curly maple handle.
  4. 1 point
    Curse you Alan ...Four hours down a rabbit hole last night. At 12:30 AM realized what time it was and decided I needed to stop as 5:00 AM (when I have to get up for work) was coming up real fast...Very cool site though. Thanks!
  5. 1 point
    This fits into three different subcategories of "Bowie" unique to the American Civil War period. It's a spearpoint Bowie, which while not necessarily double-edged often were. It's a D-guard Bowie, which while usually iron-hilted do appear in cast brass on rare occasion, and it's a Confederate Bowie, being made at the Memphis Novelty Works (great name for a company that made knives, swords, and pistols, eh?) in Memphis, Tennessee. Not your typical "Bowie" knife, but still a representative of what can be called one. Here's a tablefull of American Civil War Confederate Bowie knives of all types: One could argue they're actually short swords, but it's accepted that they are a legitimate class of the Bowie family.
  6. 1 point
    Feels good, doesn't it? I really like this. Cool project!
  7. 1 point
    From what the Atlas add said the 67 lb anvil is a modified sawmakers anvil. It has multiple radius' on the edges and on what would be the heel. I ordered one because it's reasonably priced and it's light enough that I can wheel it away into the garage and lock it up between forging sessions because thieves have stripped me down to four tongs (just out of luck they were my most used tongs). They gave me a target delivery date of July 31. I'll see how it goes. Doug
  8. 1 point
    Probably because it's quite a new product. The last I heard, Charles (the owner of the company) said he was hoping they were going to be available to the public by this August.
  9. 1 point
    I belive this type of anvil is called a Yorkshire pattern.
  10. 1 point
    got the resist painted on.
  11. 1 point
    Finished up the Camphor burl handle with Tru Oil. It's a little too glossy for my taste but it does have some character. One lesson learned, clear your alignment pin holes of super glue. My first attempt cracked the first handle during assembly and I had to start over.
  12. 1 point
    If all you're after is carbon, that works because carbon is a tiny atom that moves through the lattice relatively quickly. Vanadium, not so much. That pretty much requires melting it in a crucible. That's sort of what the wootz guys do. And you don't want pure vanadium, it's toxic. Ferrovanadium, pre-alloyed, is the thing. The 2% nickel powder starts as a casting of 1080 with 2% nickel in the melt. It gets powdered afterwards.
  13. 1 point
    I recently posted an Anglo saxon style seax blade that i had fitted and finished. This time its a blade that I forged myself, 3 bar construction (random, pinstripe, twist). the blade style isn't historical, it is my own design, and the handle isnt historical either, it is in art deco style. I expect the aesthetics to be divisive, but i like the fact that this is, as far as i can tell, a fairly original style. I haven't seen anyone make this style of layered handle although these days very little is truly original, i'm sure someone some where has done this before! The concept was a sort of spread of sunrays, a theme common in art deco. the bolster and the three layers all theoretically meet at a single point above the blade (although the eagle eyed will notice the brass layer is a bit misaligned, so they dont. that was due to covering a mistake in cutting.). The layers are solid fine silver for the bolster, brass, nickel silver and then copper. again the gold/silver/copper combo is typical for that art style. the buttcap is also solid fine silver and slightly domed. The handle started off with these components. The layers are all solid, all the way through, and the tang as forged was no way near long enough to go through the entire handle, as would be necessary to make this construction strong enough. I also dont own a welder, and in the middle of the pandemic, i didnt have access to a welder. so, i had to do something quite wierd to give the handle sufficient internal strength and support. i had to make a pinned tang extension. Constructing the handle like this meant gluing in two stages. first the bolster and 4 successive layers, then, the pin joint and the rest of the layers excluding the butt cap. complex as hell. how i wish i could have just welded an extension! Anyway, it worked, and all is well that ends well. I love the clean, geometric look. the wood has polished up really well, and the metal stripes are lovely. I filed a channel into the bolster because it was too blocky, and i'm happy with that last minute addition but other than that, i managed to stay faithful to the origional concept. So now i have two seaxes, very different styles, and all i can do is think how would i do a third one. Is this an illness?
  14. 1 point
    It's been a long time away from this forum. Life has truly gotten in the way. But now, I figured I'd stop in and say Hi to all you wonderful people in the craft. Anyway.. Sometimes it's difficult to do less. This knife has been on my desk for rather a long time now. From conception it was the plan for it to have a piece of reindeerantler in the front so that I'd have something to engrave. In fact I've been looking forward to doing it, since it was a rather long time ago I did a serious work of antler engravings. I spent such a long time fiddling with it, drawing designs on the handle. Doodling on pieces of paper. But no matter what I did, I couldn't come up with anything that would add, not detract from the elusive thing that we call: The Whole. This is a slightly frightning and rather uneasy feeling for someone that looks upon oneself as an engraver. But I eventually found the courage to listen to what I guess I deep down had known from a long time. Thus, I give you this. And no more. But in showing a knife that has been worked less. I hope to show you something that is in itself, complete. Damasteel Vinland, Antler, Birch and birch bark.
  15. 1 point
    Love the little bit of file work on the spacers!
  16. 1 point
    Preparing for the final assembly.
  17. 1 point
    If any of our "newer" makers get anything out of this thread, I hope it is that things just don't go the way you plan, most of the time. Any way, the best laid plans often go awry. The second side of that practice piece didn't turn out right. I am now very grateful that I had the foresight to create a practice piece. After that little slip that made a flat line in exactly the wrong location, I realized that I have a bunch of really good quality files, and it would be best to slow the process down and do things by hand. I also learned that it would be best to leave the profile shaping of the round ends into bishop hat shapes until later in the process. So the real guard went back into the file jig and using a lathe file I cut the bevels. This went surprisingly quickly. I sanded these flats down on the disc sander at 400 grit. I finished filing with an 8-inch mill file, so they were pretty smooth from the file. I have to smooth out those ridges caused by the file stop. First I bevel the edges. Then I went back to the 10 inch wheel at a very slow speed and blended the ridges down. Then I shaped the ends. Now it's hand sanding time with some 400 grit paper! Yay! I also used some very fine needle files to move the lines around. Side 1 Side 2 There's a little more work to do on this and then I will sand the profiles and try and smooth out the visible bottoms of the curves and the ridges on the surfaces.
  18. 1 point
    I've been looking everywhere for those thing!
  19. 1 point
    Thanks guys. There's a madness to my method......
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