Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/25/2020 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Just finished this up as a present for a friend. Heat blued and lacquered 1095 with a forged copper pommel: let me know what you think...
  2. 4 points
    Some handles off the belt grinder and ready for some hand work. Chef with lacewood J T Ranger with Gidgee pigsticker with (purple dyed) gidgee. Dye did not show till I cut and sanded it. PH EDC with quilted macrocarpa over buffalo horn A Safari with acacia over brass Mini bullnose with tasmanian blackwood over paper micarta mini skinner with desert ironwood mini skinner with lacewood.
  3. 2 points
    Finished this today. 10.5 inch blade forged from a 7 layer billet of bandsaw blade, horseshoe rasp and center core of chainsaw bar that hardened nicely. Guard is a scrap of 300 layer, spacer blade material, and buttcap an endcut from a radial pattern billet I made forever ago. Handle African blackwood. Through tang construction with a nut welded underside the buttcap to squeeze it all together. Had to try fullers after seeing Jason Knight grind them into an apocalypse tanto in one of his recent youtube videos. Thanks for looking, Clint
  4. 1 point
    This type of blade construction was rather common in early medieval in central and northern Europe during Viking age. The blade consists of three parts: high carbon steel on the cutting edge, a twisted pattern-welded bar in the middle, and a simple pattern-welded bar on the back of the knife. To forge it I used a scrap metal (as usual in my projects) but this time the scrap metal was very special. I used old bloomery iron and wrought iron nails/bolts/rivets which were found in the Dziwna River in Wolin in the place of the old shipyard/harbor during the building of the new marina (Wolin is the historical site (Viking age city)), every new investment must be supervised by archeologist. This was also the case here but they were not interested of nails :-), so I collected it.
  5. 1 point
    Forged this one up from an oversized horse rasp our farrier uses on the heavy horses. by no means fancy but will serve its purpose. With a long handle it will stay in my boat.....just in case!!
  6. 1 point
    I've always wanted to make a seax similar to this and hadn't seen many examples. I based it off of the find which is mostly gone. The blade is about 16" and the handle it just large enough for two hands. I used wrought iron for the fittings and a piece of camphor burl for the handle. It's getting close.. still need to go over everything again and peen the tang. Afterwards is the long process of making a sheath. If you've ever made a traditional sheath for a seax.. it's a bugger bear. Hope you enjoy and thanks for looking! More to come as I tackle the sheath!
  7. 1 point
    Put together a new workbench. My family got me a harbor freight gift card for my birthday so I thought what the heck!
  8. 1 point
    I was literally within spitting distance of Talisker when it happened...
  9. 1 point
    Spring 2020 puukko production
  10. 1 point
    Thank you Gerhard, I am thinking about it since your last post to me.
  11. 1 point
    And finally it is finished Not a true recreation of the original but rather heavily inspired by it. It came out a little heavier than I planned and I could have ground out a lot more material out of the tangs fuller to compensate as its point of balance is 9cm from the guard compared to the originals 13cm. But overall I am happy with it and like to think I managed to catch some of historical imperfections and think this will be the first blade I will put up for sale
  12. 1 point
    It would be nice to see the position of the gas jet relative to the end of the long threaded nipple with everything assembled. Looking at the photo, it seems that with the brass sleeve-thing inserted into the threaded nipple with enough sticking out at the back end to get the hose on, the jet will be somewhere close to flush with the end of the threaded nipple? I suspect that'll cause all kinds of turbulence right where you don't want it. I think you probably want the full length of the mig tip exposed to allow air to be drawn relatively smoothly into the low-pressure zone created by the gas coming out of the jet. Once you've got it something like, there are plenty of adjustments available with that design. If the installed burner is similar to the right-hand one in the first pic, there's a very long length (in total) of pipe on it plus an elbow. A screwed 90-degree elbow is usually considered to be equivalent to "about" 30 pipe diameters in terms of pressure loss IIRC. I think the left-hand one in the top pic is probably pretty close to convention at "about" 8 pipe diameters. The one on the right looks to be equivalent to perhaps 40-50 diameters.
  13. 1 point
    Finally got the second side laid out this morning. I tried to do some yesterday but the shop was so hot that my paint dried on the brush. Still have to mask the majority of the blade off but the hard part is over. Good day to ya all!
  14. 1 point
    So, I have a bit of an ADHD problem. It manifests badly in my bladesmithing as a failure to complete projects. Especially those I feel are too flawed to warrant completion. Recently I made a deal with myself to separate my numerous unfinished projects into groups with attached priorities, and create a rule: "No new project will begin without first clearing a project from the pile, then shuffling one of the lower priority projects into the spot that just got cleared." This arrangement seems to be working. ...then this week I decided to game the system... By my count, this clears about six slots.
  15. 1 point
    Greetins! I'm not entirely sure what to call this.. I generally call it a falchata chopper but I could be incorrect in doing so. Clean 5160, a 13" blade, 18" overall, 3/16" spine with distal taper, and walnut scales. Thanks for looking!
  16. 1 point
    Copy I made of an original 19th century Bowie by the Memphis Novelty Works. Hand forged and ground blade Fifteen inch long with both hollow and convex grinds, aged to match the original. Hand cast bronze sturrip-hilt and mahogany grip. Tinsmithed scabbard with leather lining and pinstriped japaning. www.irontreeforge.com
  17. 1 point
    A small seax knife I made and put up for sale. It's 1084, oak, copper, silver, antler, and leather. It was a labor of love to be sure. It's a keen knife and it got used in the kitchen for a time while I was making the sheath. It's a flat ground blade and quite keen. I'll take any constructive criticism. Best to you and your's fellows!
  18. 1 point
    Thanks, Joshua. I finally finished this up. The carving is a little different because this is my second attempt. On the first one I followed Mr Mashskiy's instructions verbatim, and dyed the whole piece brown like he did before starting the acrylics. However, because my huskies are mostly white, the dye was bleeding through the white and turned it yellow. (I can post a pic of this if you want to see the difference.) I don't like how bored Bear looks in the carving, though. Now I need to come up with a functional item that's big enough for this kind of carving.
  19. 1 point
    And here's my attempt:
  20. 1 point
    once a wizard gives it to a hobbit... Edit: I really should have added that is a really nice start on a blade no matter what you call it. @Bjorn Gylfason
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
  • Create New...