Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/27/2020 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    This has been hanging around, waiting for the right handle to come along Damascus OL 9 1/4" BL 5" Mastodon and black fiber liners Pretty simple G
  2. 2 points
    5 of 6 are now done. One is on the injured/reserved list after a catastrophic bluing accident.
  3. 2 points
    I got this one, peddinghaus 165 lbs. I haven't got to use it but for about 10 minutes but it seems to be very good. I appreciate all the advice.
  4. 1 point
    Alec Steele got a custom designed anvil that weighs 140, specifically so it meets the criteria for ground shipping. I can vouch for the alloy and heat treat on these. I have no idea what he is going to be charging when he starts to sell them. I have been waiting months to share this with you all!
  5. 1 point
    This type of blade construction was rather common in early medieval in central and northern Europe during Viking age. The blade consists of three parts: high carbon steel on the cutting edge, a twisted pattern-welded bar in the middle, and a simple pattern-welded bar on the back of the knife. To forge it I used a scrap metal (as usual in my projects) but this time the scrap metal was very special. I used old bloomery iron and wrought iron nails/bolts/rivets which were found in the Dziwna River in Wolin in the place of the old shipyard/harbor during the building of the new marina (Wolin is the historical site (Viking age city)), every new investment must be supervised by archeologist. This was also the case here but they were not interested of nails :-), so I collected it.
  6. 1 point
    No. Do not file back the tips, that's probably the whole problem. They are only the rated size at the very tip. Try an 0.030 tapered tip without changing anything. I bet you'll see a world of difference. You are probably dumping gas through an 0.045" jagged orifice at the moment.
  7. 1 point
    They are actually very strong when stitched together. Granted a power hammer is a different kind of force from what happens in an engine, but consider this. over ten years ago I fixed the heads on a Ford 6.0 liter diesel engine. Those heads had 18 cracks between the pair. They were in the combustion chamber, exposed to a lot of heat and other forces we just cannot imagine. A diesel engine runs off of detonation which can be a very destructive force in a gas engine, yet those pins hold up just fine. I talked to the owner of that engine just a few weeks ago and he said it's still running strong. I have yet to see one of these pins fail. The way the threads are shaped, they pull the parts together tight.There again, not sure about the whole power hammer thing, but I bet they would work as good as about anything else in this situation which isn't good no matter how you look at it.
  8. 1 point
    I like that Seax, it makes me want to make one. As soon as I finish up a couple on the bench, I will get back to a seax and an axe project.
  9. 1 point
    Just finished this up as a present for a friend. Heat blued and lacquered 1095 with a forged copper pommel: let me know what you think...
  10. 1 point
    yeah, I dropped my decent camera and it died. And today I shredded my front tire, only to find out the spare was 3" too large, which made for an interesting 25 mile drive home... also my pizza dough didn't rise. It's been a day...
  11. 1 point
    Finished this today. 10.5 inch blade forged from a 7 layer billet of bandsaw blade, horseshoe rasp and center core of chainsaw bar that hardened nicely. Guard is a scrap of 300 layer, spacer blade material, and buttcap an endcut from a radial pattern billet I made forever ago. Handle African blackwood. Through tang construction with a nut welded underside the buttcap to squeeze it all together. Had to try fullers after seeing Jason Knight grind them into an apocalypse tanto in one of his recent youtube videos. Thanks for looking, Clint
  12. 1 point
    Today I found an old friend that I thought I had lost. It's probably been a decade since we travelled together. He was covered in muck and dust, but he cleaned up really well!
  13. 1 point
    Preparing for the final assembly.
  14. 1 point
    My guess is that "just above non-magnetic" was not hot enough to harden the thin part. 5160 will sort of harden kind of okay from 1475 (nonmagnetic is 1425-sh), but it really prefers to get to 1550 or so. If the tip was already falling from 1500 or so before it hit the oil it may not have had enough heat in it to fully harden, i.e. the crystal structure was not fully transformed and you didn't get martensite. Or what little martensite there was isn't enough.
  15. 1 point
    Hi !! Ive already end this one :D steel: 420mv + 80crv2 as core handle: wenge + tigerwood Guard: soldered stainless steel Cooper on blade is some kind of etching. i hope you will enjoy :)
  16. 1 point
    Chris, This happens quite often. It can be very difficult to "read the scratches" during foundation polish. Often they will not show up until one or two stones later when everything is clarified. That is one of the many reasons that polishing can be so frustrating. It is often necessary to take one step forward / two steps back to get it really clean and clear. I learned early on that there will always be these "hardened" scratches that are latent from the final rough shaping just before hardening. Especially if you use your grinder and create any scratches in the rougher grits perpendicular to the length of the blade. Then, if you are working traditionally, with your coarsest grit stone or paper you generally begin, again, perpendicularly to the blade. This sometimes hides the progress of the polishing and whether these hardened scratches have been removed, yet, or not. Here are some things you can do to avoid and/or deal with these to make the polishing process a bit less frustrating: *Draw-file your blade to final shape with a medium-course file before hardening it. This give a good surface for the clay to adhere, reduces those vertical scratches, and gives a very even surface to start with. I personally don't know how anyone can have the control necessary to do Japanese-style blades without draw-filing. I am just not a magician with the grinder, though... *After hardening, use the finest grit on your belt-grinder that you can efficiently remove material to break down the edge and finalize the geometries. Use at least one step finer grit belt to finish the grind vertically (longitudinally--the length of the blade). Don't push the blade excessively into the belt. This will also cause excessively-deep scratches. Let the belt do the work, and go slow and easy--your geometries should be set with the rougher belt--now it is just scratch removal. *When you do begin with your course stones or papers, make sure to address the blade and make sure it has had adequate treatment with each stone/paper before moving to the next grit. Keep the papers fresh, so as not to let them load up with hardened steel that will scratch the blade (this is why I use water-stones). I use water treated with baking soda through the entire process. Juggling oiled razor blades does not appeal to me. *Before moving to the next grit, take a piece of 1000g wet/dry and buff the blade horizontally. You likely won't have to do this past 1000g, BTW--everything is generally apparent, by then. This will generally reveal any scratches missed on the current grit, and allow you to better assess the blade and "read" the scratches so you know if it is time to proceed or continue working with the current grit. *If you are looking for a scratch-free surface after the etch, you will likely have to use loose abrasives before and after the etch to finish out those minuscule scratches left by 2500g. I have a variety of diamond films, loose abrasives, and lapping papers. Each thing creates a different effect on the final look. Just be sure you never burnish and are consistently opening the surface. Otherwise you lose some of the effectiveness of developing the hamon with the etch. A well-matched jizuya may help remove the very last scratches AND bring up some activities in the ji and ha of a monosteel blade, but will not really whiten the ha. You can try all day to match hazuya to monosteel. However, IMHO, it will never look as good ON MONOSTEEL as the etch. Hazuya has always left monosteel hazy and somewhat scratchy, to me. The reason it works so well on tamahagane is because the steel is so much SOFTER than monosteel. Maybe you have a source of super fine hazuya--but I have never found any that will work for monosteel. I understand how you feel about wanting the blade perfect. That is just where you have set your standard. It just takes time and practice to achieve it efficiently. Another reason polishers get paid (deservedly) for their services. I can make three swords in the time it takes to polish ONE. These are, of course, my own opinions and experiences. Please let me know if I was unclear on anything and need to clarify. I hope this is helpful to you and offensive to no one. BTW, the polish looks very nice. I can see how you would like to get rid of those last scratches so it would be "perfect". As long as the customer is happy and reasonably got what he paid for it, I would consider this a learning experience and move on with new knowledge how to improve the next one. Sincerely, Shannon
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
×
×
  • Create New...