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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/29/2020 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Here's where I left this! Got some carving done today.
  2. 3 points
    Low layer Damascus, vinegar etched, wired wheeled and buffed. Thanks for looking
  3. 2 points
    Zeb, and Faye: You decide what you are OK with in selling your wares. If I said I never sold a knife that I thought had a flaw, I would be a liar. Every knife I make has flaws that I can see. Some I'm OK with selling, others I'm not. Generally speaking, If any maker is questioning whether something should be changed, and is hesitant about selling it, that's a red flag in my book. I have given knives away rather than sell them. I have hidden knives away rather than give them away. The handle shape on this knife is fine considering the level of experience of the maker. She should be proud of the product and comfortable with the idea of selling it before she does so. However, if her discomfort with the end result is because she is comparing her work to the work of more experienced makers, and that causes a feeling of "it's not good enough", trash that idea right now. There will be makers better than you, or me, for many years to come. Always do the best you can, and be OK with that. Each one gets "better". Frankly, I disagree with this assessment. Maybe I should have said this earlier. It is a simple handle. The fit and finish look clean and the dimensions look proportional to the blade.
  4. 1 point
    Though I said I would wait until HT, I think it will make it out alive. So, this is about a 24" bladed broadsax of the Norwegian flavor with a spine made of high P wrought, 2 twisted rods of 15n20, and 1080, and a cutting edge of 1080. The colag is in as simple of terms as I could put it, because I sent it to someone who asked me what I do, (the outcome of that; I was supposed to do a demo in May) so I avoided the word "welding" as much as I could. ...And here it is with an 80 grit rough sand. Now I need to track down copious amounts of canola oil in the middle of a beer plague. I'm thinking I can brave the dollar store if I keep distance, use my card, and sanitize good. I've done a good job so far dodging the rest of world. Also, I realized half of my sword quench tank was used to build my power hammer. To be continued!
  5. 1 point
    Very nice work! I see a teensy bit of sabering but I think it suits the blade well. I agree that it's a smidge thick.. most of my earlier work was as well. I now aim for just enough to get the job done. This way it's agile and flexible when it needs to be. (My opinion) Interesting ideas Joshua States with the dowels. I've seen it done and wasn't sure how well it worked. I have a very close friend that is a master blacksmith and he swears by JB Weld. He says to pack it in warm and then clean off excess and place it in the freezer. I'm not going to say it's amazing but it seems to work for him. I love that you went outside the box for the handle and carvings while maintaining the essence.
  6. 1 point
    Hello everybody. I am not knifemaker. Sometimes I am making axe heads but most of time - fire strikers. If it not fit for forum I am asking moderators to remove this post. But maybe it will be interesting to somebody. English is not my native. I make grammatical mistakes. Main material for my fire strikers - high carbon steel У10А ( similar to 1095 steel ) All my fire strikers from high carbon steel usually water quenched without tempering. This is the last one - "Bakunava". Bakunawa is a creature of Philippine mythology. Dragon that eating the Moon. Cause of lunar eclipses.
  7. 1 point
    this is the tanto-sized version of the mountain kotanto pattern... Satoyama are the managed forest areas that border the cultivated fields and the mountain wilds in Japan. Historically they provided fertilizer, firewood, edible plants, mushrooms, fish, and game, and supported local industries such as farming, construction, and charcoal making. Balancing the interaction of wetlands, streams, forests, and fields is an important component of the satoyama landscape and allows for sustainable use of the rich resources they offer. About the Tools for Satoyama Project (more: islandblacksmith.ca/2016/03/tools-for-satoyama) The Tools for Satoyama project is inspired by this mutually beneficial interaction between humans and the natural world, a robust way of life that sustained both for centuries. Among the goals of the project are contributing to the growing awareness of the satoyama concept, sustainable practices, thoughtful approaches to intentional living, and related historical learning. The four styles of kotanto knives designed for the project are named for the four main areas found within the satoyama landscape: stream, field, forest, and mountain. In addition, the forest and mountain models also come in a full sized tanto configuration. Some of the core characteristics of the knives produced for this project are the reclaimed and natural source materials, use of traditional techniques, and a humble and simple style of carving and finishing. About the Mountain Tanto (more: islandblacksmith.ca/2016/04/making-a-mountain-tanto) The wider profile of the mountain style tanto is inspired by a kamakura sword and has a more deeply curved tip (fukura-tsuku) and shorter drop point. The simple and humble mounting style is inspired by the age-old style of farming and foresting tools traditionally used in managing satoyama lands. Project Overview Video
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    You are a lot tougher than me....I would have had to stop when it hit 90, and even then I would have questioned why I didn't stop at 85....
  10. 1 point
    Thank you. Damascus steel fire strikers .
  11. 1 point
    I might explore that option Garry. Might give Corin a bell too
  12. 1 point
    Hey Joshua! I used to be with you on that. Maybe I still am in a way. I get epiphanies on what's right and wrong pretty often. So long as the insight you express is your own I guess... I had a long conversation with a guy in sales marketing last weekend and came to some conclusion (right or not) its really what market you would prefer to appeal to I guess. My only line of thought on a knife with a defect is you can chase the "flaw" (in this case an uncertainty in design that maybe only you see), or you can let it go to someone who's gonna love it anyway. I did this with a sheath I had someone else make for me a while back. Sold the whole thing cheaper because of the sheath quality and apologized to the customer over and over, but when he got it; he saw absolutely no problems. He loved both knife and sheath.
  13. 1 point
    Welcome! I particularly like the first one.
  14. 1 point
    Fire striker "Whale". Fire striker - buckle.
  15. 1 point
    High carbon steel fire strikers.
  16. 1 point
    Fire striker "Drakkar". Fire strikers that are made with using forge welding.
  17. 1 point
    Fire strikers "Troll cross". High carbon steel and mild steel. All parts joined together by soldering. Solder - brass. Damascus steel fire striker. Black stripe - high carbon steel.
  18. 1 point
    The length of the burner tube matters. There is a pressure loss (resistance to flow) associated with the length of the pipe and the flowrate. The maths gets pretty complex pretty quickly. The gas issuing from the jet generates a low-pressure zone around the gas stream that draws air in. The gas and air mix with the gas slowing down and the overall gas/air mixture retaining the momentum of the original gas flow. This effectively results in a (very) small overpressure that drives the turbulent mixture along the burner tube towards the forge. "Some" length of burner tube is necessary to get adequate mixing, but the longer the tube is, the greater the pressure loss along the tube. "About" 8 pipe diameters seems to be the length that most of the homebuilt NA burner designers have found works best. Elbows and other fittings offer a restriction to flow that can be expressed (for "simplicity", though that is a relative term) as an equivalent length of pipe. The combination of pipe lengths and the elbow looks, to my strictly inexpert eye, to be equivalent to about 5 or 6 times the "works best" value. The (fuel) gas pressure is so high that the gas will flow regardless. The extra resistance to flow will therefore affect the airflow almost exclusively, reducing the amount of air relative to fuel. Going to a smaller gas jet should help to get the mixture back towards a "good" mixture. If the resistance to flow in your long pipe is high, the mixture speed will be relatively slow. The mixture needs to move towards the forge faster than the flame-front can move through the mixture in the opposite direction. If the flamefront moves faster through the mixture, the flame will run back down the burner tube until it runs out of mixture to burn (somewhere near the gas jet, where the gas and air have not had the time/distance to form a flammable mixture). The flame will go out, mixture will start to flow. After a time, it will reach the hot forge chamber and ignite, whereupon the process will repeat. I am guessing this may be the pulse jet effect you mention.
  19. 1 point
    hyper therm 45 will do 1 inch/26mm sever cuts 1/2 like butter all day and works on a smallish air compressor and is around $1900 if i recal the next step up is another $1000 and needs a bigger compressor i have the 45 and love it
  20. 1 point
    yeah, I dropped my decent camera and it died. And today I shredded my front tire, only to find out the spare was 3" too large, which made for an interesting 25 mile drive home... also my pizza dough didn't rise. It's been a day...
  21. 1 point
    Finished this today. 10.5 inch blade forged from a 7 layer billet of bandsaw blade, horseshoe rasp and center core of chainsaw bar that hardened nicely. Guard is a scrap of 300 layer, spacer blade material, and buttcap an endcut from a radial pattern billet I made forever ago. Handle African blackwood. Through tang construction with a nut welded underside the buttcap to squeeze it all together. Had to try fullers after seeing Jason Knight grind them into an apocalypse tanto in one of his recent youtube videos. Thanks for looking, Clint
  22. 1 point
    What do you think of the layout? I gotta draw the other side might go for a run and stew on it.
  23. 1 point
    I usually pour some epoxy in, and wait for it to settle a little. A piece of bailing wire is good for getting the air bubbles out. When it's about half-full I insert the tang and remove the excess. A neat trick that Matt P showed me with kitchen knives is to drill a 3/8" inch hole into the handle. Then broach and burn the tang in. Now take a 3/8" wood dowel and split it in half. Sand the flat sides down until they are the right size in the hole to fit snugly against the tang. Cut them about 2" long and superglue them into the hole. Cut them flush with the front of the handle. Now use a syringe to inject the epoxy into the hole. You can buy the syringes and pine and walnut dowels at most Home Depot and woodworking stores.
  24. 1 point
    Thanks guys! Currently just staring at it. I dont really know what I'm gonna do... I chickened out on the carving on the broken back long seax I made, so I might try one here. I dont think I have any more silver wire laying around, but I'm gonna go dig for it now. How do you guys get a perfectly epoxied handle? I fill mine up to the brim, then slowly put the tang in, sort of back and forth to get the bubbles out, but no matter what by the time its cured its sunk down. It's not the best fit, but it was a burn in with like an 8" tang. Should I try JB weld as caulk?
  25. 1 point
    Lacquering the Handle & Scabbard The first layers of natural urushi lacquer are applied to seal the surface of the wood and the cord wrapping. Additional layers will strengthen and provide the ishimeji (stone surface) texture when mixed with crushed and dried tea leaves. More on these techniques: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGVCgaF7IYA The finished Tools for Satoyama Mountain Tanto disassembled into its component parts. Specifications The blade is just under 7.5" long and the overall length is about 12". The spine at the munemachi is about 5mm thick. Nagasa (blade length): 187mm Motokasane (blade thickness): 5mm Motohaba (blade width): 29mm Sori (curve): uchizori Nakago (tang): 109mm Tsuka (handle): 112mm Koshirae (overall): 340mm Katachi (geometry): hira-zukuri, iori-mune Hamon (edge pattern): suguha Boshi (tip pattern): maru Nakago (tang): futsu, kuri-jiri, one mekugi-ana, signed near the tip Mei (signature): hot stamped katabami-ken kamon Koshirae (mounting): satoyama chisagatana style, issaku yoroshiku!
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