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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/30/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Low layer Damascus, vinegar etched, wired wheeled and buffed. Thanks for looking
  2. 2 points
    Not in the shed but had a good day in town. I went to the outlet where I get bearings and belts etc to get a slightly shorter belt for the hammer final drive They have drums of bearings that are to go for scrap and they gave me permission to scavenge any of it I wanted. I just got three smaller ones about 4 inches in dia but there were a couple of big ones that must have been 2 ft across.
  3. 2 points
    I started on the forge today but didn't last long as the summer heat & humidity convinced me to do other things. I opted for handle work and got my ivory handle cut out, slotted and one side checkered before calling it a day.
  4. 2 points
    Here's where I left this! Got some carving done today.
  5. 1 point
    Hi Gerhard, I’m certainly no expert however I have had some success recently with a Venturi burner. My set up used 1” black pipe, 8” long attached to this cast Venturi. You’ll see the fitting in the Venturi that the mig tip attaches to so it sits around halfway in the flare. The other end is a 2” flare. The mig tip is a 1.2mm. I run it around 7psi and it gets HOT.
  6. 1 point
    Thank you. Damascus steel fire strikers .
  7. 1 point
    5 of 6 are now done. One is on the injured/reserved list after a catastrophic bluing accident.
  8. 1 point
    Depending on the steel chemistry and how much stuff there is to see in the final finish, anything from 600 grit to 2000 grit works well. I have a Gunto that I am remounting and repolishing for my wife and a 2000 grit finish before the etch was awesome. I usually make a sanding block of gum eraser rubber and use that and cutting oil as a final finish. Slow, precise, full length strokes and I position my hand so that the block does not wander. I use the middle finger of my left hand to ride along the back of the blade so that all of the 2000 grit scratches are parallel and consistant. Then I spray the blade heavily with pressurized anhydrous isopropyl to flush any stray grit and oil off the blade. Followed by a running water bath with dish soap (cold water). I etched by making a solution of vinegar, filtered water, lemon juice, and dish soap in an aluminum deep pan heating to boiling, and then suspending the blade point down (held in left hand) so that I can dip and brush the boiling solution over both sides of the blade with a fresh paint brush. When the blade is black, it is washed with running water and dishsoap and clamped in a Panavise, and a solution of mineral oil and a little bit of Pikal was used to remove all of the black oxides. This made the whole sword frosty and hid any remaining little scratches. About 5 rounds of etch and polish. Then the back of the blade is burnished with a polished burnishing rod to increase the contrast and visual appeal of everything above the ridgeline. Then I masked the tip of the blade making a heavy line of masking tape at the yokote and counter polished the point with 1500 paper and oil on a rubber block. I don't have pix of the blade but it is very attractive and functional. It is a hand made gunto of monosteel and the edge is very hard and very attractive. On this particular blade, 2000 grit single direction followed by an etch looked very nice. Also, experiment with concentrations of various types of acids. Weaker acids, used hot or in multiple cycles work better on many blades than a single etch in ferric or whatever in my experience. But every blade, every different steel, and every different heat treat scenareo will make its own demands. Ya gott get jiggy with it and exeriment with an open mind and a full toolbox of alternative ideas.
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