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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/02/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    A knife like that, well made, should easily be worth $300. Fwiw, I see a few small fit and finish issues, but I don't think you are far off of that value now. If this is your 6th knife, you should be able to ask more than that soon. $9/hr is not a living wage, but you will also get faster as you get better. Welcome to the knife maker's paradox. Most of us can't afford to buy what we make
  2. 1 point
    After searching here it seems there have been very few sources for bog oak posted in a number of years. When you find it at various supply sites it is either extremely expensive or sold out. Two places however, eBay and Etsy are flooded with quite affordable bog oak or Morta wood, most frequently all from the Ukraine. Has anyone had any experience with these sellers from the Ukraine?
  3. 1 point
    Hi all, Just finished another lockdown project, only a small piece but the biggest blade I can currently heat treat and a milestone project for a noob like me! This is a late 15th/early 16th century messer. I've always liked the little Breughal inspired peasant knives that a few people have made replicas of, and also the Wakefield hangers, so smash those two designs together and you get this. The dates are of course a little out but not by much so hopefully It looks like something historically plausable. I don't know if there's some weird perspective thing or what going on but to me it definitely looks bigger in the pictures, this is only 43cm long, but I think that is about right for the sort of knife in the 'peasant wedding' painting. Certainly civilian rather than battlefield weapon. The blade for this is forged from 1075+cr, with a distal taper going from 6mm at the guard to 3mmish around the tip. The fuller was roughed in with an angle grinder and then filed in. Hours of fun. I like shiny knives so this has been mirror polished, though I know this is not to everyone's tastes and maybe not how a real one would have looked. The hilt fittings are mild steel, and the handle scales are walnut. The sheath is double layered with an integrated belt. I am mostly a leatherworker really and it's always fun going against all of my instincts to make something that looks medieval. Goodbye tracing paper and measuring tools, freehand it is. Anyway I hope you like it! I have a photo of 9 year old me at a reenactment event holding one of these and it's stuck with me since. 15 years later and I finally have my own, so quite a special project for me, and a nice big tick on the bucket list. Any comments or critiques welcome. Cheers! Alex
  4. 1 point
    Thanks guys! You're too nice! I might be able to get started on the other side tomorrow or some over the weekend.
  5. 1 point
    This is one of the hard aspects of what we do. You have to feel good about your skill, as it is right now. First, that is WAAAAAYYYYY better than my first 50 knives, so congrats. Second, where are you getting $120 in materials? The steel is a few $, the scales are whatever you paid for them, but even counting fuel and belts I'd guess $50-$70. What is your time really worth? Are you a guy who makes a few knives as a hobby, or are you a bladesmith? If this is hobby, don't charge for them, or charge what materials cost you and figure your time is your own. Some of the best art and craft in the world is done by "amateurs", they have the time to spend. If you are trying to be a pro maker, then you step right up and ask for a price that you feel is fair. For an early work, that is pretty good. If you'd like some tips on how to make it better, this is the right place. Geoff
  6. 1 point
    Take a look at some historical pictures featuring people with that size seax and you may notice that the handles were longer in proportion to the blades. If you make another you might want to take that into account and add a few inches to the length of the handle. Other than that, great work. Doug
  7. 1 point
    These look like they would be handy for forging in a latter pattern.
  8. 1 point
    Looking good, I find that sculpting dies like this are wonderful. They are sort of the same idea and are crowned on the edges of the dies so that they have an effect like the peen of a ball peen hammer. You can pull in almost any direction with them. One small suggestion, flatten out the tops of your fullers just a bit. As these two curved surfaces will tend to want to pass each other once struck. I don't know if I ever used a pair under a hammer that did not start to have the upper die bend away. If your not afraid of cutting the upper arm of the spring about half way, and just bolting the rest of the arm on with the die, I understand that its pretty easy to redress the dies over time. I haven't done this myself, but I did make a set of spring dies like this to be stuck at the anvil that are bolted at the half way point. If you chose to do that, it does seem to take heavier material. To use that spring at the anvil it takes at least a 3lb hammer to get them to do much, depending on stock size.
  9. 1 point
    Damn Zeb, this is an impressive touch of artistry and originality. Nice work! I am inspired. Gary LT
  10. 1 point
    Carvings looking awesome Zeb
  11. 1 point
    Disregard man.. I totally flummoxed there and must be cross eyed from wearing jewelers glasses all day. I saw a line where there wasn't. Sabering is where the cutting edge starts to curl towards itself, I've done it on a few blades.. usually triangular dirks. Can't wait to see it done!
  12. 1 point
    It is intended to be my KITH contribution. I suppose my biggest issue with it is that it's not exactly what I was going for. Not to mention it is not perfectly centered with the blade. The good news is that it has to sit around the way it is for a good while before I can get back to my shop.
  13. 1 point
    Finished this today. 10.5 inch blade forged from a 7 layer billet of bandsaw blade, horseshoe rasp and center core of chainsaw bar that hardened nicely. Guard is a scrap of 300 layer, spacer blade material, and buttcap an endcut from a radial pattern billet I made forever ago. Handle African blackwood. Through tang construction with a nut welded underside the buttcap to squeeze it all together. Had to try fullers after seeing Jason Knight grind them into an apocalypse tanto in one of his recent youtube videos. Thanks for looking, Clint
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