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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/24/2020 in all areas

  1. Kast-O-Lite 30: The number needs specifying. Kast-O-Lite is the trade name of a range of insulating castables. The number that follows is the rated temperature in hundreds of degF. Kast-O-Lite 30 is rated for 3000 degF. As a general rule, the higher the temperature rating, the higher the Alumina content (Alumina content is a big factor in flux-resistance) and the higher the thermal conductivity (higher conductivity = poorer insulator). There are certainly a Kast-o-lite 23 and a 25, probably others too. I'd hate for someone to search for Kast-O-Lite, buy 23
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  2. Yep, remember that burl is a mixture of hard and soft wood in a confusing tangle. The soft spots will absorb more than the hard spots, so you keep applying your finish till the soft spots are "filled up".
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  3. Walnut being a relatively soft and porous wood, oil finishes take a LOT of thin coats to get anything that looks really good. If using BLO or tung, do not sand between coats. If using Tru-Oil or polyurethane, then you do sand. Oil finishes need to build up before they take anything like a gloss or semigloss appearance. The streaks you're getting are because parts of the burl are more porous than others. Just keep applying thin coats, letting it dry well in between, until you get a uniform appearance.
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  4. Thanks Geoff. It works very well . The top is a part of a die that I cut and welded to the main block. It all weighs about 55kg - 121lb. the hardy and pritchel surrounds are from wearalloy/bizalloy anbd I had a manufacturing engineer weld it all together for me. All up it cost about NZ$150 for the steel and welding
    1 point
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