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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/28/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Doing my first WIP. It’s not a knife, but hopefully you will enjoy it all the same. First, thanks to those who suggested metal combinations for this project. Second, a bit of background. My brother-in-law is a geologist and an avid fossil hunter. I got to thinking that he might think a Damascus rock hammer would be a pretty cool Christmas present; thus was born the idea. Based on the previous mentioned suggestions, as well as the design idea I had, the initial stack of steel. The order is: 15N20 (0.12) 8670 (0.084) 80CrV2 (0.032) 8670 (0.084) 15N20 (0.064) 8670 (0.084) 15N20 (0.064) 8670 (0.084) 80CrV2 (0.032) Repeat twice more 80CrV2 (0.032) 8670 (0.084) 15N20 (0.12) for a total of 23 layers. The idea was to have a majority of the steel the ultra-tough 8670 (which would hopefully etch gray), then an almost as tough shiny highlight layer of 15N20, and a final thin dark contrast layer of 80CrV2. The numbers in ( ) are the initial thickness of the given layers. I made the outer layers of 15N20 thicker to protect the billet during weld up and to account for scale loss. The initial width was 1.5 inches. Initial heating of billet. Billet welded and drawn to 1.25 inches square. Was using my thermocouple to check the temperature of my new and improved forge (Thanks Geoff for your pinned topic on blown forges!). Got to 2500F and was still going up! Was actually seeing the outer most layer appear to start to bubble. And I know it was the metal because I fluxless weld… Billet rounded to 1.125 and ready for twisting. I unfortunately didn’t get any pictures of the twisting. Twisting a 1.125 inch diameter bar was a real pain. It took 6 heats to get 2 full twists as I stopped well before cooling below bright red. During this I learned a few things that I will incorporate into the next time I do this. The main thing I learned was that, on this bar, I forged down a tip on one end of it to make it a bit smaller to “get a better grip on it for twisting”. What I learned (as people who have done this more than me probably already surmised), is you want to keep the billet as close to even as possible. The smaller tip twisted much faster than the rest of the bar and I eventually twisted it off. A complete waste of material… Round twisted bar drawn out to 1 x 7/8 and ready for punching. Eye hand punched with plug. I was surprised how fast and easy this was. The homemade punch. Just a ¾ round of H13 ground down to the shape I wanted. No heat treat. Worked an absolute dream. Still going to have to make a punch for use on my press though… Eye drifted and hammer rough forged to shape. Rough ground to 120 grit, ready for heat treat. Had to do the obligate “quick and dirty” dunk in the etch tank. The pictures don’t show it very well, but the theory for the stack up worked exactly as I had hoped – Gray body with bright and dark banding. The issue and things I have learned. First obvious issue is the eye. It deformed a bit during punching, and I was never able to get it really worked back out. Second (and this will probably help with the first issue) is I shouldn’t have forged it quite so close to final size before punching. After the forging to shape and grinding, it is a bit smaller in dimension than I was shooting for. Third (as already mentioned), twist full size. Dimensions are: Weight: 12 ounces Head width: 5/8 inches (was shooting for 3/4) Head height: 3/4 inches (was shooting for 7/8) Total length: 8.5 inches Planning on heat treating this weekend and putting a handle on it. Also planning to make a second, larger one for my brother-in-law. My wife (who also loves collecting fossils - has to be genetic...), has already claimed this “perfect for me” sized hammer. Will post final pictures as soon as I get them.
  2. 1 point
    This was my first commission for a friend. W2, and walnut crotch with denim liners. I did a little bit of experimenting with grey scotch brite, Super awesome results. Gives it a nice milky high grit satin look. I think this one turned out really well. What do ya think? If you have any critique please do tell. Thanks for looking
  3. 1 point
    Welcome back. Watch out or you'll get all addicted again. We are on similar ends of the kid tunnel. My girls will turn 22 in a few weeks, and life is good. FWIW, most would tell you not to do a slow cool in ashes anymore. Something about layers of carbides forming. The common wisdom of the day seems to be to simply normalize before you do do the machine work, and that will leave the steel about as soft as possible without a tightly controlled oven.
  4. 1 point
    I could have sworn that this was discussed a while back. And it was, but looks like it was quite a while back. Here are two of what look to be the better threads that mention it: thread 1 and thread 2. Definitely worth revisiting now.
  5. 1 point
    Well dang, I never figured it had that simple a solution. I feel kind of dumb for not realizing that, but guess we all have to learn some things the hard way. Thanks a million. I imagine many of you are aware of the time I've spent trying to clean all that up after the epoxy set.
  6. 1 point
    I admire Your Work Really top notch reconstructions
  7. 1 point
    Pickle and scrape! That's about the only way to clean up those corrugated ones, or those T-backed Indo-Persian blades. Of course, you have to forge very close to final shape if you're gonna use that method.
  8. 1 point
    added another blister mapkle block to the box to fill it out. Should be here within a week.
  9. 1 point
    I wanted to attempt to make a corrugated Anglo Saxon spear head as it seemed a little involved in the forging process. Since then, about a year ago I made up 2 decent patterned blanks. One is already dedicated to be a small knife, the second blank came out in a nice leaf shape. I have not gotten back to them as I found out really fast that I hate the amount of time grinding on them.
  10. 1 point
    After I took the pictures I noticed there was a bit of squeeze out left, I have no acetone but rubbing alcohol softens it enough to pick it off with a pin.
  11. 1 point
    That is gorgeous!!! Adding it to my wish list of things to make!!!!
  12. 1 point
    If you are using epoxy, run a q-tip dipped in acetone along the joint before the epoxy cures to wipe off the excess.
  13. 1 point
    Wait a minute... you MADE a vacuum casting system? Yowza!
  14. 1 point
    One from Bornholme, from this thread: And a Celtic example from the British Museum, mounted in bronze. You have to look hard to see the staves under the bronze foil...
  15. 1 point
    Like a barrel, made of many narrow strips side by side. I'll look for a picture...
  16. 1 point
    Just bought these handle blocks so some more nice knives in the offing when they arrive. Top right are a pair of amboyna scales then an amboyna block, Box elder and two spalted buckeye with another of the same on the left. Bottom of the pic are two blocks of blister maple Another amboyna block and a spectacular block of blister maple
  17. 1 point
    These two away today. The AH EDC and an Old Western with bookmarked Eucalyptus over Buffalo Horn 3 pin CB bolsters.
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