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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/29/2020 in all areas

  1. hello, One of the last finished projects. Copy of javelin head from Wielbark culture from Rozwadów, Poland. Hand forged from carbon steel with brass inlays. Wings are forge welded to the socket. Copy of spearhead from Wielbark culture from Zadowice, Poland. Hand forged from carbon steel with brass inlays. Thank you Jacek
    2 points
  2. I think it was Alan who suggested this in a previous thread about Epoxy clean-up, but a Non-ferrous “blade”/scraper worked wonders for me to clean up squeeze-out on the front and back of scales! Being copper or brass it won’t mar or scratch the steel surface and if care is taken it won’t damage the scale either *EDIT- this is for AFTER the epoxy has dried...do not recommend while still wet use the acetone thing for that I really like this shape BTW! Awesome work!!!
    2 points
  3. Hey guys, anyone have a clue what I'm looking at here? I don't have it yet, but was bought for 200$ from a boatyard. Has what seems like a really big horn, almost looks like a Peter wright but I can't see a lamination line. My dad who found it estimates it at 250lb which isn't far off looking at the size. No cracks or dents, really good shape.
    1 point
  4. I was just starting my response, then saw Kreg replied. While I was reading that, Alan replied. They covered it well. Thanks guys.
    1 point
  5. It's all over the site, in all the heat-treating threads. Basically it's looking at the steel in the forge to see the moment the crystal structure changes to become hardenable. The steel will be a low red, then as the temperature rises to the point where the transformation occurs you'll see what looks like a swirling line of shadows inside the steel, starting at the thinner parts and working into the blade. Once the shadows have disappeared it's time to quench. That's decalescense, where the shadows represent the energy loss it takes to make the change from body-centered cubic iron crystal
    1 point
  6. I think the fact that you can't find anyone who uses one like that says a lot about how useful that modification is...
    1 point
  7. This was my first commission for a friend. W2, and walnut crotch with denim liners. I did a little bit of experimenting with grey scotch brite, Super awesome results. Gives it a nice milky high grit satin look. I think this one turned out really well. What do ya think? If you have any critique please do tell. Thanks for looking
    1 point
  8. Color is not your best gauge of temperature. The color changes depending on ambient light conditions. In bright daylight a near molten piece of steel looks grey. If you have to go by color, do your heat treating in a dark shop, cherry red is what the books say, but again, depending on the light, you could be 400 degrees too hot. Testing with a magnet is better, you'll still be a little high, but not so much. Better yet would be a pyrometer. You can get a cheap digital online for around $50. Geoff
    1 point
  9. I've spent time with him on the phone. From that short encounter I can say I most likely agree.
    1 point
  10. A dry q tip for the first few cleaning passes and only when the majority of it has been wiped away do you need to use the acetone to clean the residue off.
    1 point
  11. Just wanted to share a knife I recently finished and have available for purchase. The blade is hand forged 1084 with as forged flats and ricasso, copper guard/bolster, black fiber spacer, and walnut handle. Sheath is veg tan tooling leather dyed USMC black and waxed with a combination of beeswax and paraffin for weatherproofing. The welt is glued in and saddle stitched for maximum longevity in the outdoors. Every part of this knife was hand crafted by me in my shop and is available for $250 CAD plus shipping. For those that use freedom dollars that is about $185 USD plus shipping. Please
    1 point
  12. hello, Completed project including oak scabbard. Thank you Jacek
    1 point
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