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Just finished this one. W2 and some sort of spalted burl. I think it looks alright at first glance but there are a lot of issues. Learned a thing or two though

Not bladesmithing related but something I've been working on. Curly and Birdseye redwood with a few clear gloss coats. Looks nicer than my crappy picture shows. Going to be a coat hanger for my grandma when I get around to forging the hooks.

The Sheffield Millennium knife. http://www.knifecollector.net/Millennium-Knife.html

This is a 7 1/2 in chef with spalted buckeye on the 12C27 ss blade and ready for an edge for shipping. Leather slip cover. and the little field scalpel with oliove on the 2 1/2 inch 1084 blade. Pocket sheath with no belt loop.

Just wanted to chime in here to add a little info on cold and cryogenic treatments (-115F and -315F respectively). The general consensus by metallurgists (and keep in mind that that is typically hard to come by; so when everyone agrees, chances are it is right) is that the primary benefit is in cold treating, which converts all retained austenite in most steels, but some steels need the cryo treatment to achieve full conversion. Internal stresses exist between retained austenite and martensite. Once the retained austenite is converted those stresses are gone. The newly formed martensite is

While I was beginning on another sword I threw this piece of steel I with it and wanted to see how long I could draw it out with no real plans as usual. Ended up with a 46cm long blade and way to big of a tang. Also decided that I will to most of the stock removal with a file as I just got some fresh big mill files and I actually think it's going faster than with the belt grinder Haven't fully decided yet what kind of hilt will go on it. First thought was a Swiss baselard type but the do feel rather plain and I kind of want to try something challenging.

Just finishing this up for a friend who's a classical violin player. 1095, buffalo horn spacers attached with blind pins, bog oak and poplar burl: let me know what you think...

I wonder if broaching would be the best solution to this? You could possibly modify a cheaper arbor press to do broaching.

Thanks for the advice and feedback guys. Profiled the guard and now files and sandpaper to finish it off. Forge a pommel next.

Unless there is some sentimental attachment to it that you haven't mentioned yet, "Take the money and run".

Alan, Dragon, you guys are genius! I tried to drill the tang hole where I plan a lanyard hole(it was even in a spot I clayed) and I got about .050" in and it wouldn't drill anymore. So I did a rough grind on the edge(just enough to get through the surface) and retested it and it now skates a 60 file, and almost skates a 65.! Thanks again!

. Nah, more the 4,000 year old expensive fancy wood attached to the cheapest new wood product. But it looks cool, and is an appropriately hipster send-up on a seriously nice blade.

Some more of this weeks work

Have these ready to sharpen and ship now. Old Westerns with Maple Burl over CB Buffalo horn bolster on the 1095 blade. brass and micarta pins. Hot waxed sheaths border stamped with initials.

I am impressed with Alec's talent and entrepreneurship. At 55, I wish I'd learned his skills at his age. If I needed an anvil, I'd buy one of his. I did buy a t-shirt from him: