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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/10/2021 in all areas

  1. Latest one I wrapped up. One of my finds when i remodeled my shop was a 3’ bar of 3/4” 52100. This is a 4” utility out of that bar. Guard is low layer Damascus and the handle is stabilized banksia pod with black & silver pearl resins. Thanks for looking.
    3 points
  2. Though I spent much of my shop time getting ready for a class that I'm teaching tomorrow, I got the pommel made, drilled, and the knuckle bow bent to fit today. It's always a bit of a challenge to bend it exactly to fit and I heated & re-heated it several times before the end fit the hole in the pommel exactly right. As my class is reproducing "Bowie No. 1", it will be lengthy so I may not have the time to work more on this for a while.. I'll post more on this rapier when I can devote the time to it. If you
    2 points
  3. Well got up early and did the heat treat this morning before light. I connected the forge up the day before and gave it a test run. Everything went so very smoothly and I got a good quench that hardened along the entire blade. The blade is almost dead straight and I will be able to easily sort the rest in temper and grinding. For those interested in the how the new forge performed I am very impressed. It is easy to start and ran smoothly unlike my Fire Pig that coughs and snorts until it gets warmed up. It got up to temp in no time and was very e
    2 points
  4. Alright, so... better late than never... Let me present "Odal" - the Heritage knife. Details on the blade can be found in my previous post HERE. Handle is in walnut, supplied by customer - treated with oil - also provided by customer (he makes his own). I decided to attempt to further develop both my drawing skill as well as engraving - so I sketched up a Urnes inspired dragon on my pad and put one on each side of the bolster. The back cap (or whatever it is called) on the handle is in the same steel as the blade. I've also done some inlay on this
    1 point
  5. You've come a long way with that engraving! Really nice work.
    1 point
  6. A good stopping point. Have fun with the class! That'll be a good one.
    1 point
  7. I did the machine polish on the blade it is not at 400 grit and ready to hand sand out, and I riveted the bezels inplace. moving forward.
    1 point
  8. Looking great Josh, lovely big blade and that fuller turned out great. Bevels look great too. I know how much effort it is to tame that steel and keep things straight as you go, let alone having visitors to contend with. I lock my gate and let loose the hounds. Oh I like your dodgy fuller tool better than mine your round bars meet at a much better angle on the blade.
    1 point
  9. Well, I haven't done anything with these seaxes, except postulate whether I could salvage that 3-bar scramasax by cutting it down into something smaller. It still may happen, but, that's for another day. I had a day of forging yesterday. I made some W-pattern stock and worked on folding up some of that 1095 ingot I bought. While I was at it, I picked up a sword I've started back in 2017. I had to look at the photos to determine how long that has been collecting dust in the shop. It's a multi-bar thing with PW core and W2 edge bars (IIRC). Here I am using what Rob T would call a "dodgy fullerin
    1 point
  10. Super fantastico! I am so pumped about this build.
    1 point
  11. It's not carcinogenic at all, it's just an irritant dust after firing. Once you coat it it's completely inert. Before it's fired it's no worse than fiberglass insulation. It's also the best insulation available, which makes for a more efficient forge, which means both more forging time and lower propane use. If you line the whole thing in castable with no wool, you won't be at forging heat until it's been running for half an hour. After forging for an hour or two, once shut down it will be a fire hazard for another two hours and a burn hazard for four. With two inches of wool and
    1 point
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