Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/18/2021 in all areas

  1. Today Liz and were discussing renaming one of the cats. Sprout was very small when we got her almost 3 years ago, and the vet told us she was likely a couple of years old then. (I doubted the vet) Sprout has since ballooned to almost 12 pounds, which is twice what she was when we got her. Hence the name Sprout. Liz suggested calling her Spumoni. I said Semprini. Liz didn't get the reference.
    3 points
  2. Got some work done on the second blade. Got the bolster drilled out and fitted. I don’t know if I’m ever going to be good at this part, it never seems to go smoothly. I drill out the back first, the drill a series of holes: I use a Dremel tool to “machine” the back and the slot and it ends up looking like this: then I use small needle files to get a tight fit I don’t have any great pictures of the surface, but I peen the surface for texture. Then I drilled out the antler, drilled a
    2 points
  3. A friendin the US asked about a knife that might have been a Confederate officers knife from the 1860's. Had trouble getting decent antler and would have prefered to use one piece but he wanted scales so that always leaves a lot more of the white interior of the antler visible. I have a couple of lightly curved pieces of good antler that I use on a similar knife.
    2 points
  4. The first Bearded Utility knife done. Not polished to a very high degree as it is a shop test blade to check the cross purpose usage I anticipate it will have. At 14 oz it is a well balanced knife and with the multiple hold options should offer a lot to the user, with the same uses as a Serbian chef knife, an Ulu, a western chef and even a skinner. I will do a video at some stage when the leather is done on the various uses and hold options.
    2 points
  5. Its only taken me over a year, but the last knife in this thread is the fighter. I have a billet of Persian ribbon with a twisted border that I intend to make this knife. My goal with this knife is to create something eyecatching and diffrent from my normal stuff. I tweeked the handle design a smidge and tried to eliminate any long straight lines. The handle length, not including the guard, is 5". The blade is 5 1/4", and the guard is 1/4".
    2 points
  6. Water-base polyurethane over tung oil. The oil makes the grain pop, the water-base poly seals it. Looks like plastic, but there you go. Or use stabilized olive, if they offer it.
    2 points
  7. Here are a couple glam shots. I'll be honest, it's grow on me a little and it makes me feel a lot better that you guys think the handle is alright. Thank you for all the help with this knife.
    2 points
  8. It's pretty cool what humans can do when we work together. The Perseverance Mars rover is set to land today just before 9:00PM GMT. Here is the live stream if you are into that sort of thing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gm0b_ijaYMQ Here is an animated simulation of the event: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rzmd7RouGrM
    1 point
  9. If you are using the high chrome for edge steel, then yes, as long as it's scale-free going into the fire it ought to weld just fine. As long as you don't melt it, of course. For flux, with mild steel I'd use either borax or borax with steel filings. Cast iron powder would be better, pure iron not so much. With wrought iron, I'd use borax or chinchilla sand. Or a mix thereof. Have you done much welding of very high carbon to low carbon? If not, the trick is to weld at the temperature the high carbon wants to stick. This will be substantially cooler than where y
    1 point
  10. The core bars [Feb 2021] For the twisted core bars, I used more hearth steel (carburized bloom) + some nineteenth-century wrought iron that has a moderate phosphorus content. The last time I used this combination I got a great color contrast, so: fingers crossed? 1.5lb (700g) of hearth refined bloom steel + about as much phosphoric iron, ready to weld: Heating it up... Success! And drawing it out into a 1/4" (6mm) square bar: This netted me enough for 2 bars.
    1 point
  11. No pressure, but I'm pinning this one.
    1 point
  12. That looks close to SAE/AISI 52100, but with a pinch of nickel and molybdenum. It can be welded, but you need a really clean atmosphere. The issue with chromium is not so much in welding it to zero-chrome steels, that works fine until you pass around 1.5% Cr. The issues come in trying to weld it to itself or to other steels with chromium in them. That's why you'll see lots of recommendations not to use 5160 in damascus. It's not that it won't stick to 1095, it's that if you get a little sloppy in your layers or forget to remove the scale before restacking, you run a risk of h
    1 point
  13. What grit belts are you using for the bulk of the post-heat treat grinding? I prefer using the low grit belts as long as I can, coarse abrasive grinds cooler than finer grits, just be sure to use sharp high quality belts. FWIW I use 40 grit ceramics for 95% of material removal, higher grit belts are only for removing the scratches. I often remove a lot of material after heat treat, because the oven I use gives me a lot of decarb, I also tend to be lazy and heat treat directly after forging sometimes.
    1 point
  14. This is the "system" I used to do until I got a surface grinder attachment for my 2x72. It's slow but it worked for a lot of my knives.
    1 point
  15. You might also want to check the height of you anvil face. Differing opinions but you need to try to have it at about knuckle height. Also, if your hammer face has any sharp edges try to grind them smooth. Try to make sure that you are bringing your hammer down flat on the work and don't try to hit the steel as hard as you can. That might reduce the hammer marks on the blade, at least the deep ones. The fewer hammer marks you leave on the blade the fewer you will have to grind out. Doug
    1 point
  16. According to my math, Robert, you're good to go. My first two ideas are kind of at the opposite ends of the mild to wild spectrum.... a simple sheeps foot or one based off a Bastinelli design
    1 point
  17. And I just realized Trugrit is a macho-sounding name, but at least it's non-confrontational...
    1 point
  18. I got another pirate (grandson) with a birthday coming up next month and he's in need of a treasure chest. I've got most of the woodwork done: I made the boards from some very old white oak from my grandfather's barn (thus a few worm holes). I'm thinking about ebonizing the oak with iron acetate and doing brass hardware. Or perhaps white oak with iron hardware. Still have to think on it. I do plan to round the facets on the top.
    1 point
  19. Ok ill sort it this weekend, he was an awsome smith in his 80's looking kike a little old lady and working a 200lb+ spring hammer. the really neet thing is that he has a steel insert in the poll to help shap it into a swuare.
    1 point
  20. how would one go about putting a video on to here? i have quite a a few i took in Japan 2019 of a smith making his version of this axe, i also have the etched axe that shows the process quite well.
    1 point
  21. I took my first blacksmithing class 22 years ago this month, October of 1998. Did a lot of ornamental stuff before trying blades. Here's #1 (the little one with sheath) and #3: You can't tell from the pics, but the blade and guard of #1 are welded cable. What am I most proud of? Let's see... there's this repro of the last tomahawk presented to Meriwether Lewis, accurately dimensioned and using antique wrought iron: and the blades of the Maldon Foes collab between me and Petr Florianek (Petr did the handles and scabbards): And my trowel:
    1 point
  22. First, I need to start by giving a BIG thanks to Joshua States. I have watched the first two parts of your video on making a antler handle Bowie Knife about 6 times and have (I feel) learned a lot. The videos spurred a lot of creative thinking on my part. Thanks for the idea on an inexpensive center scribe too. I ended up using an old router 45 degree carbide chamfer bit. Now on to the reason for the post. Apologies as there are a number of pictures and if this duplicates something already on this forum (I haven't been able to find it if it is here). In my opinion, the "Holy Grail" f
    1 point
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
×
×
  • Create New...