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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/01/2021 in all areas

  1. i find an angle grinder does a better job of removing saw dust than the plasma your mileage may vary
    2 points
  2. And I'm pinning this, because it'll be very useful to anyone who wants to do a frame handle, even if it's just cut from sheet.
    2 points
  3. A little update since this post. W2 chef. 9.5” blade.
    2 points
  4. Posted this on another forum as well. I’m really excited about it! My father-in-law texted my wife and said he found her grandpas old anvil stored away and asked if I would like to have it! Of course I said absolutely! I was told to take a wire brush to the body along with some boiled linseed oil and bang some hot metal on the surface to shine the face up. I should be getting it on Sunday so I’ll post an update after I wire brush and oil it. I was told it’s a Fisher. I’ve been trying to zoom in to see any numbers that might tell me how much this thing weighs but I don
    1 point
  5. That, sir, is the right attitude for this business!
    1 point
  6. Hi everyone... Previously I posted a little sneak peek at something I was working on.. Well, now that little something has come to completion - and I'm ready to share it with those who might be interested at having a look. I've always wanted to give it a shot at a dagger - since this blade geometry has fascinated me ever since I was a kid... And without further ado, after 170 work hours - I give you Vegvisar - the Pathfinder! I have forged this dagger in honor of the four dwarves, Norðri, Suðri, Austri and Vestri - supporting the heavenly dome
    1 point
  7. Here we go. I've even made a few notes about how I'd go about forging the shapes (feel free to disregard if they don't work for you!) I think setting the edges first might work out best, but I can't experiment to find out at the moment.
    1 point
  8. Look for nickel wire. We have a local industry that makes music wire. Alan may know more about them. Looks like they are still in business https://www.mapesstrings.com . Way back when things were different I was able to get a small roll of fine nickel wire from them. We used it in damascus but I can't remember exactly how. I kinda remember the nickel was used to wrap the actual strings, like the big string on a guitar maybe. 30 years ago it was easier to just walk in a place and ask for something than it is now.
    1 point
  9. Good luck! What did you differently with your welds? Also, I was rereading your initial post and thinking of how to make all the weld seams hold better. Have you thought of forging a very thin, short scarf on the ends of the two steel wings? Not enough to add mass, but enough to help get the very ends to close. I'll draw a picture of what I'm thinking and post it in a little while.
    1 point
  10. Still hand sanding but happy with the weight 6mm thick around the bolster area that distally tapers in both directions, bevels go straight through the grip as well and think I might take a few more grams out of the grip fuller as well to get the balance point a little bit further forward. The reinforced tip is a hair over 5mm thick as of now
    1 point
  11. And this one was a bit of an experiment. San mai 115crv3 core with 75ni8 cladding. Forged very thin and a fuller on the right side for food release. Ebony and copper for the handle. Grinding such big flats without overheating was the biggest challenge
    1 point
  12. Alright, so I wanted to make a special "Certificate of Authenticity" for this blade - but it turned out a disaster... I decided to make an attempt at illuminating some calfskin parchment with gold and silver pen, as well as caligraphy pointed permanent markers. I made the design on my tablet, printed it - taped the parchment to the paper and traced the lines. However - my markers - struggled to transfer any pigment down to the parchment, and only the very first lines from a fresh marker would be nice and clean... after that I had to use the marker multiple times over the
    1 point
  13. that "groove" towards the blade makes all the difference. The way I see it, you want the light reflecting off as many facets / details as possible.
    1 point
  14. This one is ready to go now and is a one off new design. The Harpoon fighter has light hamon on the 1095 blade with fullers and false edge and skull breaker. Double angled brass bolster with 4 spacers and a black liner under the zebrawood handle
    1 point
  15. I've got some progress to show again, I'm really enjoying myself with this one. the blade finish forged: The profile and flats ground before heat treat, and some filing done on the shoulders. I like to heat treat as soon as possible, this way I have room to grind out small warps and I like to do most of the work with 60 grit anyway. I never really understood why people grind knives to 220 grit before heat treat. And the knife finish ground ready for hand sanding, I also have a design now My plan is to use stainless for the g
    1 point
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