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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/03/2021 in all areas

  1. Black Curse - this is how the Turkish name Karabela was interpreted. It sounds both menacing and picturesque, and it really is. This weapon, when equipped with a handle of the Polish type - eagle's head widening towards the beak - as a master Wojciech Zabłocki maintained, in the hands of a skilled fencer, was evoking respect and was able to inflict irreparable losses on the opponent's body. I just finished such a karabela. The construction of the hilt of this type of saber is interesting - a strap of brass sheet encirceling the wooden plates is soldered to the sheet adjacent to the tan
    4 points
  2. This title may surprise some of you, coming from me as it is with my constant emphasis on learning to grind freehand. And I still think freehand is the best way to do large blades, and the only way to do certain complex historical grinds. Folders, however, are another story. They have to be precise, and it's darned near impossible to grind folder blades while holding them in hand, since they have extremely short tangs and get too hot to hold very fast. I was bumbling along with a make-do extended handle thing (basically clamping the little blades to a chunk of 1x3/8 flat bar),
    2 points
  3. I use Kelly Cupples almost exclusively, mainly from loyalty because he used to come to the NWBA swap meets and I could buy directly and not have to pay shipping. One thing I've noticed over the past year or so is that he's taking a little longer to fill orders, but that could be a result of COVID (or having more business, so perhaps I should discourage recommending him....).
    1 point
  4. Heavier than it looks huh? To be fair, I have an unfinished fillet knife from last year and two petty knives to keep me busy. Enough to get back on my feet and grind some skin off my thumbs.
    1 point
  5. I have mixed feelings about this.......I pride myself in free hand grinding, but those little folder blades is a whole different game. Never before messed up my fingers so much, bunch of white spots with a red dot in the middle where I ground through to the quick, nevermind the semi-cooked fingertips. Still, once you get jiggy with the dark side it's downhill from there. Nice jig Alan
    1 point
  6. Thank you very much. Really appreciate the kind words. Right now i am working on building myself some hammers and a couple set of tongs. After thats done im going to start working on another on.
    1 point
  7. I can absolutely vouch for NJSB also, shipment is always done in a very reasonable amount of time, and prices are reasonable as well Fun tip: if you ask for a small drawing, they'll draw it on your steel! They did a Totoro for me my first order and it looked great! I know it's secondary to pricing and shipping, but I think it shows a great sense of humor and commitment to customer satisfaction
    1 point
  8. I have ordered steel from all those suppliers mentioned above. You are asking about 1095 and 15N20, which gives me the impression that you are sourcing materials specifically for pattern welding. Who you ultimately buy from will largely depend on what equipment you have to work with, because what equipment you have will decide what size stock you will use, and not all suppliers sell the same size stock. I buy my PW supplies from Admiral Steel. I buy big pieces (1-1/2" by 72") of 1095 and 15N20 (8" by 36") because I have the equipment to cut it down to manageable size and forge out
    1 point
  9. I have only ordered from Jantz once, just recently. I was pleasantly surprised when they processed my order and shipped it out the same day. I've ordered from Aldo several times and have had no issues either. Everything has always come in reasonably quickly, and exactly as advertised. I don't think that you'll go wrong with either.
    1 point
  10. In the distant past I ordered solely from Admiral Steel. I actually have more steel now than I know what to do with, but I am low on a few things like 1/8" thick 1084 and would like some 1075, 15N20 and 80CrV2 in various sizes to fool around with. The next time I order steel will certainly be from New Jersey Steel Baron. Aldo has a reputation as a supplier of high quality steel.
    1 point
  11. I use those two mostly. Jantz is a little more expensive than NJSB, but they have a nice selection of other things and I live close enough that even USPS is usually next day. They mostly have 18 or 36 inch bars. NJSB has slightly better prices but for me it evens out because the shipping is higher from there. They sell a considerably wider variety of sizes (both length and width) I've not had any trouble with either of them. I have also bought from USAKnifeMaker.com though lately they seem to be constantly out of most things.
    1 point
  12. Some flaking at the mouth, I need to repair that. I am using the blower to dry everything out. Honestly I dont know why is there such a problem to get good refractory in my country. Other than that everything runs fine and looks like a nice machine. I can in future just change the "barrel" part in case I find something better for the forge itself and the rest will stay the same.
    1 point
  13. Still working on that. If all else fails we can use a 220 generator setup, one of the guys here has one. We're working with a couple of possible locations to see what we can do. But, I'm certainly not going to turn down a volunteered hammer! We'll keep y'all informed as we learn more.
    1 point
  14. Since you're doing stock removal only, you may want to normalize two or three times to refine the grain. The raw barstock is probably spheroidized annealed, and the grain will be on the large side.
    1 point
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