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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/29/2021 in all areas

  1. This from Geoff Keyes
    5 points
  2. After the blade was boiled I waxed it and it really improved the finish. I began the handle idea I wanted. First forming a block into the shape which fit the blade, I shaped the handle to the final dimensions I needed. I then made the NS guard and pommel, which I left lightly sanded. I used what I call “redneck urushi” applied to the handle which also allowed a little museum finish at the edges, set the blade with west systems 24 hour epoxy. These are the final photos and I am pleased with the final product. I expect over time the handle will abrade some but I have handled this
    4 points
  3. Most of my knives are stock removal. It annoys me having to explain why it doesn't make any difference in quality and that even on my forged knives, most of the work is done post forging.
    3 points
  4. The guy onh FiF who used a paper towel was Ashe Cravenock. You may have noticed a wide load and beard also on that episode (takes small bow). Geoff
    2 points
  5. Nice comments and thanks to all. I use West Systems GFlex epoxy 50/50 ratio. Colored with a dab of black acrylic artist paint. Brush it on or use a light piece of thin wood with some flex. It will smooth out quickly and it doesn’t run for me. The sprinkle with ground tea leaves gently being sure to get complete coverage, lightly patting if needed. This is 24 hour epoxy but I like to get it started in the hot sun, checking a few time to be sure nothing has moved. It gets rigid enough to handle in a few hours. I painted this black with Rustoleum gloss. (Yeah I know not at all professio
    2 points
  6. I was recently contacted by someone through my FB page asking about a dagger I made several years ago (2016?). He wanted to know if I could make another one and how much it would cost. Now you know why I use templates! I have the blade, guard, and handle templates from this dagger and can reproduce a fairly accurate copy. This is a 9-bar blade, and it's accordion cut, so I need a big hunk of steel. Here is the starting billet. 3.25" x 1.5" x 5.5"
    1 point
  7. I have a small shop and hate cleaning up sawdust. I used 1084 for the blades and large garage door spring for the handles. Have a great weekend!
    1 point
  8. My contribution to the craft today was to finish this handled butcher.
    1 point
  9. A stupid mistake on the grinder came back to haunt me, forcing me to redo the ricasso a bit. In the end I think I like it better now, may have to rethink the handle some more now. Also managed to get one side drawfiled and sanded up to 320 in preparation for heat treat. Had to take a break before starting the other side. Fat guys and hot weather don't get along too well!
    1 point
  10. Cant wait to see it when done. KT
    1 point
  11. The light rescue set is done with the 11/64 / 4.3mm 1075 nipple nosed knife with is 3 inch straight section blade (9 1/4 in OAL) for those situations where a point is not desired (seat belt or tight tie etc) The bare handle without scales is for compact carry while the radiused edges still give a good hold for comfortable use. The flat head lever made from 1/4" / 6.3mm 5160 has the screwdriver tip on the 3 7/8 blade (8 inch OAL) that also doubles as a stout lever for the situations where this may be necessary. The gutted parra cord wrap gives enough bulk and very good grip for serious use of
    1 point
  12. 1 point
  13. I'm just happy there are no voids in the welds!
    1 point
  14. A little side bar project spawned from this bar. I took all those little triangles and cleaned them up. Then I arranged them in a canoe with some 1095 powder. After welding the canoe shut.... I welded it in the press. I hot cut off the end and split the seam. Forged the bar out to about 1" x 5/8" x 8" long. Then a little surface grinding And a light etch This will make something someday.....
    1 point
  15. Finally got back to this after a month. Managed to get quite a bit done today. Still need to draw file the bevels to even everything up. A quick etch shows the layers right about where they should be. Theres not a whole lot of activity to the transition like I wanted, but sometimes you have to crawl before you run I guess. Sooner or later I'm going to have to decide on what I'm going to do for the handle. Gotta be well over 100° in the shop right now, so that's probably it for today. Hopefully I'll get a few hours at it tomorrow morning before it gets too hot again.
    1 point
  16. Today I madly dashed around buffing knives and jewelry, less than an hour before I had to leave for the local sheepherders rendezvous, where I am a vendor. I glued the handle back on the edc and it survived three long falls unto the concrete floor. It made the handle a little shorter than I wanted it, but it passed inspection well enough to go on the table. This is the first time I've ever had a table anywhere. It was fun for the first hour or so, but after three hours the novelty kinda wore off. Now I'm people watching, suddenly wondering if it's not normal to be faci
    1 point
  17. 1095, huh? I suspect that only that spot actually hardened. The torch isn't ideal for fully hardening a blade that size, and 1095 is really picky about temperature and how fast it gets quenched. It requires you to drop the heat from over 1425 F to below around 900 F in less than one second or it just won't harden. Using a torch tends to leave hotter and cooler spots, and 1095 is not at all forgiving. Finally, 1095 only etches dark if it's hardened. Thus my suspicion.
    1 point
  18. If you hover your cursor over the words "magic welding lube", and say "badda bing!" as you right click the mouse, it will show you.
    1 point
  19. Please don't mock me! I'm very fragile. Ok, Ok! I'll do it. I've got a bunch of damascus to do in the coming weeks, I'll do the experiment. I wonder if you could do a round tube can with a cardboard tube liner, hummmm. G
    1 point
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