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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/31/2021 in all areas

  1. What a good idea!
    4 points
  2. Did a public demo for the Cades Cove Preservation Association this Saturday. http://www.cadescovepreservation.com/ Negatives: MAN! It was hot! Setting up and especially loading up at day's end had me soaking wet. Light crowd. The folks that run the museum are great, but I think they struggle with publicity. Worked my tail off to have plenty of flint&steel sets and heart pendants on display. Sold one flint&steel. Positives: Sold one knife. Antler crown with poured pewter. Made me sad though that I didn't get
    3 points
  3. so now it needed a handle and a well grained piece of recycled Rimu was cut as a starting point Got some shaping lines drawn on for a 23 inch OAL to allow for a bit more swing and impact than the short hatchet handles will give. Cut out and started the hafting process Finished the shaping and wedged the head and added some B L O sharpened it and had something that can sit in the truck as part of the few tools and bits and pieces I like to keep in case some help is needed on the road for me or someone else in a spot of strife.
    3 points
  4. Just got these finished up. Clay hardened 1095 with filework and mustard etch, and a baked oil finish. Carved bog oak handles, with antler bolsters and pommels. Bog oak sheaths with leather throats, and copper clips for antler handled ferro rod fire steels. Commercial boxes with fitted foam lining. Went a little more rustic than usual, but I think I like them... Let me know what you think...
    2 points
  5. Added a VFD to my grinder, which i am really looking forward to and organized my belt storage:
    2 points
  6. Glued and clamped the backside plyw on the scabbard this morning and got the by knife close enough to finished to make a sheath for it so next is the pricker. As the current plan is for a relatively high status kit I went with faux ivory for the scales
    2 points
  7. Pricker done as well so now I can make the sub sheaths for them. Before I can then glue them to the core I have to figure out exactly what kind of suspension system I'm going with so they don't get in the way. The scabbard core got its linen wrap glued on today as well. It's pretty amazing how much stiffness a couple of layers of this thin plywood add while keeping the scabbard thin and very light. Ground fullers in the tang to shave off unnecessary weight there and might distal taper it a little bit towards the pommel. Got a little bit more fil
    1 point
  8. I don't see a mess anywhere. At least compared to what I'm used to working in!
    1 point
  9. I mean truth be told im putting some other things on the back burner while i am getting all this up and going.
    1 point
  10. Alrighty so i changed a few things around finished the stand put some heavy duty casters rated for 250lb on the stand so i can wheel my forge around when NOT in use. Changed the door from that crappy steel door, that i thought was a cool idea in the beginning but wasnt, to firebrick. Added a support for my piping so its not putting pressure on my burner and forge lining. Added hole for thermocouple for when i want to use it. All in all im fairly impressed with myself. what does everyone think? How did i do? anvil is ordered waiting on it to get here then its off to the race
    1 point
  11. Pretty darned good for a first axe! . I'm not surprised, you're a man who knows hand tools and how they should work. That's half the battle when making them.
    1 point
  12. Well, it's been a while since I posted, I have been working on this blade on and off for awhile, but I got it done on Friday 8/27. I learned several dozen things not to do and they show up on the blade *sigh*, but it's my first knife and I'm proud of it. I'm already planning my next one, and I'm excited to continue getting better. It turned out to be a clip-point camp knife, I acid etched the blade, but accidentally put a big scratch on it, so I re-sanded the blade down which left some little waves here and there from the etch on the bevel which I really like. the handle is black linen mic
    1 point
  13. put the finishing tutches on this bad boy before sharpening it up
    1 point
  14. Well the other day I finished up the post vise, today fit up a hunter and did some grinding
    1 point
  15. Most of my knives are stock removal. It annoys me having to explain why it doesn't make any difference in quality and that even on my forged knives, most of the work is done post forging.
    1 point
  16. I honestly- wouldn't put doors on it just yet... I think I'd just use a couple fire bricks, or pour some refractory slabs to use... that you could just position in front of it for now. Use it as is for some time. See how it heats, get used to how it runs and burns- and what tuning adjustments you make to get optimal temps from it. Make little changes as you go- versus bigger changes that are harder to come back from. I speak from experience building and modifying mine. The main reason I think you should hold off on doors- Is it looks li
    1 point
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