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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/04/2021 in all areas

  1. Here's my opinion. Take that thing to the belt grinder and push those bevels up. Take it to 320 on the belt and straighten out any wobbles on the disc (if you have one) or with 320 by hand. Get a mayonaise jar and put just enough FeCl in it so you can put a clamp on the handle and put the blade in the acid point down just until it reaches the plunge cuts. Do a series of 5 minute etches, rinsing in between until the depth of etch looks similar enough. It shouldn't take more than about 3 cycles from the looks of it. (probably 2). Go to the grocery store and buy a really big potato. Something lon
    2 points
  2. This is not that a big one. 290x60x4,5 mm, with tang 430 mm long. 54Sic. I am gonna fit it as a half tang or as a hidden tang into a deer antler roll. I think it needs S shaped guard. Jaro.
    1 point
  3. Hi All Finally something worth showing here. I really enjoyed making this Bowie. Pattern welded blade, 1095, 1075 and 15N20 Deer antler handle, oxidized Sterling Silver fittings Guard Iron/Nickel deeply etched. Total length 43 cm, Blade 28.5 cm
    1 point
  4. Blade inspired by Sheffield Harrison and Howson hunting knife. Blade 4 mm thick XC75 steel, +- 60 HRC, 15,5 cm long. Total length 27 cm Bronze bolsters and liners. Sambar stag handle scales Copper bolster pins, hidden handle pin and domed handle pin. Any tips or critique are more than welcome.
    1 point
  5. Dough, No I did not have to straighten the antler, I have attempted a few times but never been that successful. Joshua As far as the guard is concerned it was just iron and nickel pattern welded approx 160 layers then I carved the surface with an angle grinder forged it flat cut the guard out and etched the hell out of it with nitric acid. Gerhard You can probably look back at post I have posted in the past or you will find a lot here (1) Richard van Dijk, Bladesmith / Hoiho Forge | Facebook Keep an eye out for my next post, I am about to finish som
    1 point
  6. This. All I can say is most of you are doing it the really hard way. Here's what I do. Lightly glue up the sheath parts into finished configuration. This it before final profile shaping and before any tooling. Finish the profiling on the 2x72 with a 120 grit belt. Run the stitching groover down the front face and run the stitching wheel down the groove. Mark each dot with a red pen so you can easily see it. Take a 5/64" drill bit that is tapered to a point (use a cordless drill and a runing grinder, I use my disc) and drill the holes on a drill press. Use
    1 point
  7. Hmm, after seeing that, I would encourage you to keep the overall quality of the knife in mind when you decide how much effort to put into this one. That blade is screaming pacmascus to me.
    1 point
  8. A little side bar project spawned from this bar. I took all those little triangles and cleaned them up. Then I arranged them in a canoe with some 1095 powder. After welding the canoe shut.... I welded it in the press. I hot cut off the end and split the seam. Forged the bar out to about 1" x 5/8" x 8" long. Then a little surface grinding And a light etch This will make something someday.....
    1 point
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