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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/26/2022 in all areas

  1. I do quite a lot of steak flippers, forged from old wrenches, but recently I had an order for a custom set of grill tools. A long flipper (approx 24" long), with a matching fork and long handled knife. Here's what I came up with.
    3 points
  2. And here is the finished sword. I can't quite stress enough how the pictures do not do it justice because the hilt is very light and the blade is very dark so no matter what I did, the contrast always looks off. I'm tempted to get it professionally photographed, but for now this is the best I can capture it. Here are the overall stats for the finished sword: - Overall Length: 51.875" (131.8cm) - Blade Length: 40.0" (101.6cm) - Blade Width at Base: 1.389" (3.527cm) - Blade Thickness at base: 0.260" (0.660cm) - Blade Width at Tip: 0.924" (2.346cm) - Blade Thickness at Tip: 0.080" (0.202cm) - Guard Width: 9.750" (24.765cm) - Grip Length: 7.750" (19.685cm) - Guard/Grip Thickness: 0.874" (2.220cm) - Pommel Length (Bottom Section): 1.852" (4.705cm) - Pommel Diameter (Bottom Section): 1.940" (4.928cm) - Pommel Thickness (Bottom Section): 1.433" (3.641cm) - Pommel Length (Top Section): 1.496" (3.800cm) - Pommel Diameter (Top Section): 1.512" (3.841cm) - Pommel Thickness (Top Section): 0.620" (1.576cm) - Weight: 3lbs 8.2oz (1.593kg) - Center of Gravity: 3.008" (7.640cm) - Primary Node (Center of Percussion): 25" (63.5cm) forward from guard - Secondary Node: 1.630" (4.140cm) back from guard - Forward Pivot Point: At point - Aft Pivot Point: 7" (17.8cm) forward of guard Thank you all for watching! -A.J.
    2 points
  3. Next, I marked the blade at 2" intervals and measure the current thickness. Then I decide on the desired final thickness at each point based on both blade feel and historical examples, and grind accordingly. This allows me to creep up on the desired thickness and check as I go so I don't end up with thick (or thin) spots. Then I check the pattern in addition to the distal taper. This is the part that went wrong for me. The blade was originally slightly thicker than I wanted, and I noticed the mosaic pattern on one side was less pronounced than on the other. So I ground a bit heavier on that side to try and correct it and get the pattern even. I ended up grinding it a bit thinner than I wanted, and while the mosaic patterns are now fairly even, the outer random pattern on the edges was nearly ground away on the middle section of one side (visible in the 3rd-to-last picture on this post). Moral of the story: etch and double-check the thickness of the outer layers on any san-mai before grinding. The blade is then normalized and straightened by clamping between two boards. Now for the fullers. I got a pneumatic pencil-type die grinder for about $35 and it was one of the best purchases I've ever made. First I mark the fullers, then I use a carbide burr to rough the centerlines. Finally, I grind them wider and even them out using a sanding drum. Now coat the blade in layout fluid and mark the bevels, then rough grind and file them to shape. Grinding the bevels on san-mai means one has to be careful that the edge remains centered for the length of the blade. At this point the blade is heat treated. I don't have a kiln wired up yet, and I did not trust my usual methods for a sword such as this, so I sent it out for heat treat. Here is the heat treated blade next to the final design. Next up: hilt components. -A.J.
    2 points
  4. I should have pinned this earlier, but it's never too late! Excellent work! One question: When you were trying to make the socket via soldering, what solder were you trying? I've had good results with silver brazing for that sort of thing. It will not split or break. It does tend to show once the steel darkens a bit from age, though.
    1 point
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