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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/11/2022 in all areas

  1. Ready for glue up. Chef knife with Random Damascus blade, stainless bolster ,red Cedar burl handle and a carved leather Saya.
    7 points
  2. Hi, folks. My name is Eric, and I have been making knives for the last 3years or so. In an effort to push my skills and scratch an itch I have started to work on some swords. I'm trying to stay reasonably close to originals without make reproductions of specific pieces, more historically plausible stuff. Here is my first finished piece (I have a few more in process now). Type XVI arming sword, based off the IX.13 from the Royal Armouries collection. In addition to my first sword, this is my first attempt at a wood cored and leather wrapped scabbard. It was a great learning experience and I'm excited to use what I learned in future projects. Thanks for having me, I look forward to seeing other folks work.
    3 points
  3. For reasons that I won't go into right now, I've had nothing to share. But now I have some things. From time to time I dabble in jewelry, the cape closure is for the table, the buckle is for me. It's going to get some little PW plaques for the belt. It should look nice with the kilt as the weather warms up. The knife is just one of a ton of pieces languishing on the bench. No matter what I do, it looks like I'm trying to copy Jake Cleland to me. I guess there is no shame in being influenced by another makers work. The blade material is some cable that I got from Mike Bell after a class I did there a couple of years ago. Welded (no twist) cut and 4 stacked. The handle is an elk tine. Thanks for looking Geoff
    1 point
  4. Unless I did not see the complete article above ...I would love to have seen some data on the microstructure and the composition of those ingots. This topic is very much alive for me. I am currently melting with a taller crucible the flatter lens crucibles are on the way. I will post some pictures as soon as this computer allows me to. Below are some recent microstructures, using a narrower taller crucible .
    1 point
  5. Flexibility is largely driven by geometry, or in this case the thickness. The type of steel will dictate how far it can flex before it bends or breaks, but not influence how stiff it is nearly as much as the thickness. (This is a bit of an oversimplification) I've never made a fillet knife, but most of the commercial ones I have had were probably closer 1.5mm (~1/16") at the thickest point.
    1 point
  6. I like the contrast with the spacer and bolster leading into the damascus.
    1 point
  7. It's a good approach if you can do it that way. It forces you to work a little more accurately which is usually a good thing.
    1 point
  8. I've lost count, but I think I've been at it at least twice as long as you, and I'm not even halfway to being able to equal that, well done!
    1 point
  9. What he said, don't listen to a surgeon, physio should be your first stop......even before a GP
    1 point
  10. Have you seen a physiotherapist about this condition yet?
    1 point
  11. Another antler and buffalo horn handles Tahr Hunter on 1095 blade in closed sheath ready to head off to its new home in the US.
    1 point
  12. We call it Knife in the Hat, that is, you take one out and put one in. The basic idea is we decide on a theme for the build, which is generally pretty broad, then people sign up and do their build. Then when all is done one of the admins takes the names and pairs them. You send off what you built to it's new home, and you get something from another maker for your own. It's fun, it lets you stretch a bit, it build community. Clear enough? Geoff
    1 point
  13. Railroad spikes!
    1 point
  14. On another forum I used to frequent somebody regularly posted photos from a Kiev knife show, many talented smiths in that country, I wish them much strength.
    1 point
  15. I also recommend having a look at the presentation on seaxes I did some years ago: lecture_saxes_final3.pdf
    1 point
  16. Hello all. Here's the first episode of the NWBA's KnifeMaker's Corner:
    1 point
  17. I had been using resolene and tan kote for finishes on my leather. I do Western carving on my sheaths and use the resolene as a resist and tan kote as a top coat. I resently used fieblings pro resist before antique. It is amazing stuff, works as advertised bringing out hues In the leather. I followed with tan kote then another layer of pro resist as a top coat since tan coat doesn’t seem gray with water. It is a excellent product and highly recommend it for anyone looking to experiment with their finishing. The sheath in the picture has stain applied for color but you can still get an idea of how it helps bring out shades of color much better than resolene in my opinion.
    1 point
  18. Today I have Ronnie Earl on, blues guitar.
    1 point
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