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Hello there, I finally finished the oyster knoife. It was fun and I tried and learned some new stuff on the way. The blade is 80CrV2 tempered as soft as I could without TME. It's got flat grinds and convex "edges". The "tentacle" guard is cold blued mild steel with copper sucker inserts. The spacer is acid aged copper and handle is myrtle.

I swear I have my attention disorder almost under control. While I was waiting for supplies to continue with the fantasy set I decided to work on this one but simply couldn't put it away until it was finished I do like making weird swords and the type xviiie definitely fits that category. Only really popular in Denmark between the 1450s to 1490s it is a weapon specialized to deal with plate armoured opponents The one I made would be at the very upper end of plausible lengths for them at 160cm but one of the extant pieces found in Sorø sø has the tip missing and might h

So a friend from church asked me to make a self defense knife of his design. There is a specific name for it but I don't remember what it is. The only thing I enjoyed about this build was the challenge of forging the handle to shape. I put some Indian rosewood scales on it and had it nice and shiny when he said he planned to paint the handle with truck bed liner to make it 'grippy' and 'non reflective'.Oh the self control it took not to tell him what I thought of that. So after a long internal struggle, instead of letting him bastardize a knife with my makers mark, I painted it myself and

Thanks for pointing that out. Though I can assure you it's entirely by chance .

And a bit of grinding later..... I think it will etch better once hardened.

Phew. Definitely closer to the edge than I'd like, but considering... I'll take it. I see hints of bright nie waiting for a good polish. Quench was in brine, 3 Mississippis in, 2 Mississippis out and repeat. Sori is very slight, a little above 1/16". I also got a slight warp that I'll correct on the second tempering cycle, the blade is currently in the oven at 400F. Clay was for suguha but the tip chose otherwise. My guess is that the carbon content there is a bit more heterogeneous, as it made a very similar pattern on the previous

3rd Kitchen knife, so I thought I'd put it out there for Critiques. I've enjoyed doing all 3 Kitchen knives and have had a relatively good response to them locally so I'd like to improve them with your help and make some more. I'd like to know what to improve on and what I should keep doing. Personally: I like the shape, alignment of handle to blade, and I'm proud of the heel area. I wish I had kept the handle a little thicker (its a little broomsticky towards the blade end..), the sanding on the brass bolster isn't even (yet. I'm working myself up to fix it), and I think the blade

And we are pleased to announce that we have lined up https://www.blacksmithsupply.com/ as a vendor! Take a look at their site and see if there's anything you'd like to save on shipping, I have an email in asking if they'd bring heavy stuff in person if you tell them you will be attending when you order. Need a fly press or anvil? Or bulky stuff, need a full roll of kaowool? They can bring it!

Never tried it. Try it and see! The end result will be ferric (or ferrous, depending on oxidation state) sulfate, which turns stuff black rather than orange. Might be a self-darkening etch? If the black is more durable than that done with ferric chloride. No idea, in other words!

A shop magnet and my 72" belt grinder. It's not as centered as it should be, I didn't think to mark the center until I realized it was off center. Only the top is sharpened. The 'spine' has a false edge. It is supossedly a design developed by an undercover narcotics cop for tight quarter combat. The idea is pulling a blade up to make a wound bigger is easier because it uses stronger muscles than pushing down or sideways.

Honing in with 400 grit. Starting to get crisp.

As per your request, Eric.

Its flat now, about 120 layers on each side and edge from german carbon steel san maied in the middle. I think the pattern will really come out when I grind it.

Nice one. The best way to judge your design is to put it to work. If you are interested, I have some Yew wood if you don't like the broomstick Osage.

I suspected it was too hot, but wasn't sure. Thanks for the confirmation everyone. I followed Alan's advice on the temp and stuck to keeping around 2200 degrees. It came out MUCH better. Only very small cracks in a few corners that should easily grind out!

A sad day has come, I've had to buy a bottle of sriracha hot sauce. This year, just to be safe, I'm going to put up 3 gals