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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/28/2020 in all areas

  1. 15 points
    “Far over the misty mountains cold, To dungeons deep and caverns old, We must away, Ere break of day, To claim our long forgotten Gold the latest Seax by Myself and Petr Florianek... My blade but Petr has surpassed himself with the blade carving , handle and sheath ...My fave to date. hope you like it. [
  2. 13 points
    Blade: 1080 & 15N20 Handle: cocobolo Fittings: 416
  3. 11 points
    hi everyone! Alright, so I'm spending somewhat of an eternity working on the sheath of this thing - so I've decided to post at least half of the thing... the knife itself. Let me present - Draumr Gripnir - the "Dream Grip" - with some unintended fingermarks and all! Blade in two bars of folded and twisted railroad steel, with a third bar (edge) of 15n20 and ferrier's rasps. Handle i copper, brass, camel bone and vulcanized fiber. The runes engraved in the brass reads "keep your blade sharp, but your mind sharper". The nut on the end really tested my skills as an aspiring "jewler". Anyhow - sheath and complete measurements to come. Needless to say, this is one heavy knife due to the massive materials in the handle. Sincerely, Alveprins.
  4. 8 points
    My latest sword a patternwelded single edged viking with patternwelded fittings. hope you like it. stay safe out there.
  5. 8 points
    Hello.... For over 11 years I have been working on traditional Japanese edged weapon, specifically grinding and polishing blades and making rim of swords. I use traditional materials and their modern modified analogues. Forging and heat treatment of blades are done by my friend Dmitry, he is a professional blacksmith and gunsmith with experience over 10 years. Since 2016, i began making art knives, in the styles: cyberpunk / bio-mechanics, using some of the best materials and precious metals. I try to do all the work in the highest quality, studying new technologies and do various experiments with design. Showing my last work, just as interesting, I will show my later work ... Aikuchi "The Black Moon" Authors: Daniil Izotov / Dmitry Chebukin. Blade: steel 9xs, 305/30/5 mm (length with handle 45 cm, in sheath 49)traditional grinding / polishing. Frame: magnolia, epoxy enamel, silver, copper. Sageo cord, kara-kumi weaving style.
  6. 7 points
    Finishing this up. Water quenched 1095 blade, copper guard plate, antler bolster with carved birds head cartouches , carved box burl handle, leather sheath: let me know what you think...
  7. 6 points
    I've been trying to work up a mosaic bar that will have a pattern of an appropriate scale to look good on a 2.5" folding knife. This weekend I finished up the last of the square welding with a 9-way weld of 1/2" bars drawn out of a prior 4-way. Now I am ready to tile it up. The pattern is quite small now, but I know it will expand when I forge it out a bit after the tile weld. This slice is literally the end 1/4" of the bar. I'm hoping the pattern is a bit less random further inside. I'll be using my new found "Gary's Canoe" knowledge to tile this one up, and have some ideas for how to further enhance the pattern. Stay tuned...
  8. 5 points
    Plum tree had ripe fruit so a day of making sauce, jam and some preserves but still have more preservers to do The I was tempted by some nice wood so have these coming Tasmanian Blackwood Yellow Cedar Burl And some black lacewood I bought last week And last but not least a block of redwood burl
  9. 5 points
    Well, I courageously executed the first-fire on my forge today. Nothing blew up, but I did lose much of the hair on my forge lighting arm. It's going to take me a little time to figure out the balance of propane pressure and forced air pressure, but I'll get there. Pretty excited about the whole thing.
  10. 5 points
    Had a fun forging day today with John of this manor (not sure of his user name!) The press tooling worked well for punching, but I forgot to photo, Ill get some pics next time I remember. I made a tiny rounding hammer from a massive bearing roller, for my 4 yr old sprog - about a pound at a guess
  11. 5 points
    Final straightening as it had a slight kink still 3/4 of the way near the tip. I just clamp against the rest of the 1075 stock I forged it from and used some aluminium foil to shim and clamped bevels ground and now just to clean up with hand sanding then handle and then to find a Barra.
  12. 5 points
    I have other projects I should be finishing, but am having a hard time staying away from this one, so I got quite a bit done today. First it was back into the fire to try to get it forged to shape. I recently swore off flux, and replaced the sacrificial kiln shelves on my forge floor with some nice clean ones. I can't believe how nice it was to work on something without getting it covered with sticky molten flux residue every time it went back into the forge. I've been working hard lately to push myself to forge much closer to final shape than I had been. Until now I have been taking "forge thick, grind thin" a little too literally. The cable skin on this billet is quite thin so it is forcing me to get the blade forged pretty close if I want any of the cable pattern to show in the finished piece. I've seen folks do much better, but this is pretty good for me: Here is the other side: Here is an edge shot just because I'm a little proud of myself: Finally, a shot showing off the cross section: I was shocked how fast I could clean up the bevels and profile on this blade. The old adage "5 minutes at the anvil can save you and hour at the grinder" turns out to be pretty accurate. I had the blade profiled, and the bevels mostly cleaned up in about 10 minutes. However this fuller sanding part sucked... I was all giddy at first because I was able to clean up the fuller to this point in about 5 minutes. However after another hour of work I still have some sanding to do. This is far as I had the patience to take it today. A little more sanding, and it will be ready to heat treat. I did a quick dip in ferric to see where I was at. It was only after that I remembered that this billet has a layer of 15N20 between the cable and the 1084, so this is really a go-mai blade. Then I finally sat down to dinner. I get strange cravings and just go with it.
  13. 5 points
    Well it looks like success. Heat treat went well with just a slight bend which came out in temper. I did 3 cycles At 220c. The blade spine is 1.7 mm tapering to .7 near tip and has good flex but not too much. I still have to grind in bevels and clean up but happy.
  14. 5 points
    I have finished a new set of 3 kitchen knives with sayas. An 8 inch slicer, a 6.5 inch chef's (was supposed to be 7 inch but i had a whoopsie , so it looks a little 'stout' to my eye) and a 5.5 inch petty. I made these for myself and since there was no outside purpose or spec, used them to try a load of different things i wanted to experiment with. so its an eclectic set where not everything matches but there are some consistent features that give it a common style: - Angular, raked blades, handles and sayas. this set is facets on facets on facets. the only curves you will find anywhere are in the heel of (some) of the blades for functionality reasons, the actual blade edge themselves, and the backs of the handles. - Bronze. I love bronze in general, but this set is fitted out fully in copper, phosphorous bronze and gunmetal. i have also made the bolsters and one of the saya pins out of brazed and then forged multi-alloy blocks, a sort of mokume gane style (just brazed not kiln welded). I think this adds depth and interest to the bolsters and also a thin band of silver solder between the layers that catches the light. The wood is all from a single block of Mexican Cocobolo. man this wood kicked my ass for a while. the dust is a nightmare, i spent more time hoovering than shaping it. It's oily and clogs up abrasives instantly, requiring constant cleaning of belts and hand abrasives. it changes colour so fast that despite everything starting the same, it all looks a bit mismatched. those handles and sayas come from 3 sawn off continuous slabs from one block. but because they were all finished at slightly different times, the colouration varies, like the smallest saya, which i finished first and is darker. this was a pain when i needed to make small adjustments. if you re-sand one facet, you have to re-do them all! otherwise it looks bad. But, for all that, the wood itself is amazing, very hard, able to take a near mirror finish and doesn't split or move or splinter easily and i love the grain and colour variation and figure in the wood. The blades are two variants of twisted pattern welded 15n20 and 1095. one is plain low layer, the other is a low layer bar twisted with a higher layer bar and i think that one is amazing, wish they had all been made of that material. The handles are designed for pinch grip use primarily, and are relatively short, with steep slope towards the bolster which i find is very comfortable and avoids a sharp/sudden drop under your front fingers which i find straight/octagonalised handles have. they also have a pronounced belly to help grip with the back two fingers. They are faceted in a biased octagonal shape, wider at the top than the belly. overall i tried variations of this shape on the 3 handles, trying to find the sweet spot, and the largest knife, the 8 inch slicer, has the most comfortable handle. the petty knife handle is slightly too tall for its width and is a bit akward, and the 6.5 inch chef's knife handle is just a little too slim. next time i would make them all slightly longer too. great learning experience doing those. The Sayas are all very different in design, i wanted to try a variety. The slicer has a fairly blocky saya, quite heavy and thick, with a bronze faceplate. The Chef's knife has a more 'traditional' saya, with a cut out for the bolster, thinner walls, and generally more slim and angular. the Petty has a 'topless' saya, with a split for a bronze bar and a bronze stop at the back. all are felt lined. The two larger sayas have pins, of two very different designs. the Chef's has a 'typical' turned and rounded gunmetal pin. for the slicer, i went with something different. i took a small slice of the brazed bronze bolster material and drilled and brazed a 1/4 inch gunmetal rod into it, then shaped and profiled it. The rod part i ovalised, and i also ovalised the hole in the saya. what this means is that you put the pin in with the 'tab' aligned down the handle, which is 'loose' to do, and then you twist the tab 90 degrees so that it lies along the saya in the postion below. this locks it as the long axis of the oval pin rotates into the short axis of the hole. This gives it a very satisfying feel, and if it ever gets loose, i just apply a thin film of glue to the sides of the hole and it will be perfect again. i will definitely use this style again in the future because its just so tactile and again i think visually striking. although it was a lot of work, i guess 5-6 hours total just on that pin and fitting it. The blades all have a sort of 'double' k-tip. I doubt this is entirely origional, although i dont remember seeing it before, im sure someone has. but either way i love it. I really like the look of the tip compared to a regular k-tip. another feature i will use again. The blades all have minifaceted tops rather than 90 angles, mostly for comfort but i also like the way it looks. They are also on the thin side. between 1.8 - 2mm at the back of the spine, down to sub milimeter on the spine just before the tip, but with very little distal taper on the main part of the spine (you cant have much distal taper on a blade that starts at 2mm!). so these blades are light, flexible and laser sharp. the edges are honed to a mirror finish. Both the larger blades have the balance point right at the ricasso/bolster transition, so they are super light in the hand when you hold them pinch grip. they dont tug or try and twist your hand forwards, the combination of balance point and light overall weight makes them feel like feathers in the hand. not sure if a professional chef would like that, or want something with a weightier feel, but I like it. I tried 3 different styles of shoulder/ricasso/bit where it joins the bolster. the slicer has a stepped ricasso with a 3mm section and tang. the chef's is just straight the whole way, and the petty has a quirky angled join with the blade being flush with the bottom of the bolster, which is sliced rather than slotted. The chef's knife with the straight profile ricassio is my least favorite. it just creates a weak point, and visually doesnt look as good as the slicer. it being a weak point, when the blade flexes, it flexes at the point where the blade meets the bolster. i am concerned about the long term effect this might have. the slicer flexes evenly along the blade, putting way less moment and stress into the transition into the bolster. it feels way more solid and just looks right. the petty I quite like. its different, its angular, but i like the joint between the bottom of the blade and the bolster, it fits the style of the blade and saya i think. A few piccies of the individual blades and some more detail on the saya's fit and construction. So, this is my 2nd 'set' of knives, i learned a lot by making them and i don't know exactly where i will go for set 3 but i have a few smaller projects to do in the meantime. got a mean 11 inch carving knife ready for finishing in silver and macassar ebony which i am really looking forward to doing, i think that is going to be very cool. So, three months of my life, (part time, evenings etc. maybe 200 hours total) went into these knives. let me know what you think! which saya works for you? i have my favorite and one that i dont massively like, but i want to know what others like. does the double angled tip work? whatever. critique is welcome.
  15. 5 points
    Been a busy couple of days with all the handle on and this morning got them all rough shaped on the 2x72 and made a start on finishing them. From the top there is paper micarta and bras, madrone burl and paper micarta, maple burl and paper micarta, matai and paprer micarta, ambonya burl and buff horn, and at the bottom is sapele and stainless. The sapele being a softer wood made getting the transition from one to the other a very delicate process and at time very frustrating.
  16. 5 points
    Here’s some of my forged stuff form the last year .
  17. 4 points
    I got a start on a new Bowie blade today for my existing inlaid handle. This one is from a piece of 1 3/4" W1 round rod. I haven't decided yet if I will give it a hamon or not. [ W1 does a very nice hamon should I decide to do a differential H/T.] My old elbow wore out today before I had the forging complete on it. I'll try to do better tomorrow.
  18. 4 points
    I was retired from smithing up till about 3 years and change ago.. I primarily forge now when I make a video for YT or get a question asked by a newb or during demo season or teaching which happens at event and such.. I was asked to gather up some of my work of which there was none from before that 3 years mark and change. So, all I have is new work other than the wakizashi which is a reject as the measurements are off. It was interesting to me that I have actually forged a good amount of bladed skulduggery and this does not include the blades that have been sold. Nor any of the other items forged (hammers, thumblatches, hardies, forkes, spoons, etc, etc)..
  19. 4 points
    I have been researching fillet knives for a while hoping to find the perfect recipe for steel, geometry and heat treat. Well I have found all manner of opinions and info but nothing definitive so I have decided to just conduct my own experiments. I am starting to feel that blade geometry is the key and normalising a critical factor (I do 3 cycles anyway with every blade) I have made some over thickness blades and grind after heat treat and some very thin and tried to quench with mixed results but have settled at this stage on this. Yesterday I forged this blade from a very old rusty meat cleaver from under a farm shed (so just an unknown carbon steel) and forged quite thin (bit over 2 mill at the thickest down to about a mill at the tip) I cleaned off the scale and did some rough profiling then did my quench as normal in oil. The blade hardened very well and a file scated along its length though I lost some to decarb near the tip before the file scated but I want the tip fine so that suited. I got a better than expected slight bend in the blade but this came out in the first temper cycle. I clamped it to a straight bit of steel. here is the blade after forging and rough profiling. Next pics are after rough sanding and quench. The flex pic is after the first temper cycle at 190 c and is at thickness described above. I intend to do 2 more temper cycles at 200c and see how that is for flex and can then do some more post heat treat grinding after till I get the flex I want. So where I sit at the moment (and it may yet prove wrong)is - forge as close as possible to desired thickness then do basic profile and rough grind of bevels and heat treat as any other meat knife and then grind thinner if required post heat treat. Anyhow for what it’s worth that’s my thoughts. I would appreciate any of your thoughts on preferred blade shape etc and if you have an opinion on the design re a curved blade or straight. Wider or thinner blade.
  20. 4 points
    Well it sure has given me something to think about. I am going to do some more experimenting with different steels however this latest knife seems to be what I was hoping for so I will stick with that blade geometry. Once finished I will test my edge retention on 6 chickens as I can’t seem to catch any fish lately. I will debone and make them into rolled roasts (just learnt how to tie the Butchers Knot. Here it is so far. I decided to use some brass bolsters and water buffalo horn. I chose to use the part of the horn with the groves as I thought it gives it a bit of character. Still got a fair bit of finishing to go on handle and blade where glue squeezed out from bolster.
  21. 4 points
    As you can see here, I ended up giving this dagger/toothpick a simple, traditional style hilt. I'm saving the wire inlaid hilt for a future Bowie knife.
  22. 4 points
    To avoid that, just remember turn on the air first, THEN the gas. Then when you shut down, turn off the gas first, then the air. If you then want to scare the bejeebers out of a visitor, wait until the forge is good and hot, fully bright red inside, then trip over the cord to the blower. The forge will start making a sort of "WHUFFwhuffwhuffwhuffWHUFF" noise, with billows of dark orange flame rolling out the doors. If left alone it will eventually go out, but not before blowing relatively cool flames up to five feet from the forge. If you let it go for more than about 20 seconds, though, it's only polite to cut the gas before restarting the blower. If you hit the blower as it's starting to go out the resulting "WHOOOMPH!" tends to cause stained underwear. Not that I've ever done this, of course. Had it done TO me, yes.
  23. 4 points
    Worked just fine. I used 197 1/8" coctail straws to make the holes. Fretted over casting it for months for fear I'd mess it up. Took one hour from the time I poured the bags of casting material into the bowl for mixing to completion. Easy-Peazy! I will add though, the stuff is like trying to cast crunchy peanut butter. I used an air-impact chisel directed at the side of the casting and it turned the material into jelly and it just flowed in-between those tiny strays like syrup. Prettiest burner casting I've seen on all the forums to date. I'll be reporting back when I fire it up...............either that or you'll read in the papers that some crazy knifemaker blew his shop off the face of the earth trying to light his new forge! Okay, just took a couple of pictures.
  24. 4 points
    Another quick progress peek: I’m hoping this works. Some things I’m worried about with this antler. It was the only piece I had that would fit these dimensions, but it has some characteristics I don’t like. I really either need to make good friends with a reindeer farmer or become on myself... I need more antler!!! Things are moving slow. I work in a hospital and have 4 kids on an extended spring break. Enough said. Hope everyone is well. Stay home, protect those around you. Oh - I wanted to show some in progress pictures: Adam
  25. 4 points
    The ricasso side slot is about .004" narrower than the ricasso is thick. This will enable me to ensure a tight fit when the guard is pressed on. Then I draw back the tang and the ricasso area with the oxy-acetylene torch and a welding tip. After considerable pounding with my guard setting team, and cutting the resultant ribbon out of the slot with a hand graver, I got the guard set onto the ricasso. I also proceeded to make the finial. This was an experiment that worked out great. Originally, I was going to forge the finial from W1 stock, but Hancock convinced e to use 416 Stainless. The thickest piece of 416 I have is 3/8" and it's not enough. So I got this bright idea to forge weld two pieces together. Then I got a different idea and thought about how cool it would look to have a thin layer of bronze in between two layers of 416. Guess what? If you sand the 416 down to 220 grit on one face, and the .035" bronze clean on two faces, you can make a sandwich that is self-brazing. Just MIG the seams shut and throw it in the forge until it's at about 1600*F and let it cool. The only thing left is to redesign the spacer to incorporate some thin bronze. The guard shaping will be all stock removal. Now I have to drill and fit a piece of Blackwood to the tang and make the back spacer/finial combo.
  26. 4 points
    It took a while, because I had some other knives to make and sell, but I finished the handle, I might add some ring dots later if I can find the tool I made for that somewhere. I think this blade really needed some form of reinforcement at the front of the handle to keep it from splitting, after a few tries with different cord and metal wire I settled on a very simple leather string wrap. with the leather glued in place it feels really solid and I think it really fits the more sober look of this piece. After some research I do think that a leather and cord covering would be more historical for this style of knife/sword, and that the partial wrap is more of a scandinavian thing. There will be a patternwelded one in the future though, so I'll do a different more fancy handle on that one. This blade is a phenomenal cutter, I want to get some tatami mats to test it properly, as my normal targets like water bottles and cardboard tubes were no resistance at all. The overall lenght is 123 cm (48 inches) and it weighs just under three pounds, the originals would have been even heavier, but I was limited by the size of available steel. (at this point I'd consider trading a kidney for a source of 3/8ths 80crv2 ) The cat is for scale ofcourse
  27. 4 points
    Probably not the biggest but definitely one of my favorites. This was 6 years ago. Back in my bow fishing days. Just a big ol nasty carp!!!
  28. 4 points
    Counting the connecting pins, this hilt has 52 pieces.
  29. 4 points
    Rob,i'll try my best at a brief,and least complicated explanation(it's actually a very complex scene). There're two different kinds of cuts there in the smoker mixed up.(smoke,btw,contributes nothing to preservation,it's only to keep flies away). The almost-whole width fillets with cross-cuts is "dia'gah",the way native people here dried their fish for the rest of the year(salmon only run for a few weeks in summer,but run in huge numbers,so this was The mainstay of diet,there's precious little else here.In spring,when dry fish ran short,many would die of starvation just because of this shortage). Alaska is extremely arid,and once dry,fish or meat can store for a long time,but it starts freezing in mid-September anyway,so it's even handier. However,meat is one thing,Fat being quite another.And we need fat desperately,it contains most of the more complex amino-acid chain segments;meat is only protein that humans,unlike say canids,are incapable of utilizing for this. Fat doesn't dry.It goes putrid(polite term is "fermentation",but is not technically correct,being conversion of sugar,but here we run into unstudied complexities...). Putridity,rotting,is what we call the process when assorted bacteria come and start decomposing matter into finer components.From this point everything becomes pretty variable...What kind of bacteria,how long they're at it,how we Like it(and Why,one of the unanswered questions...Palatability is a huge deal for humans,physiologically so). So it all depends.I kinda "study" this stuff,have been for quarter-century,and there're few if any clear answers. Native people here used no salt(which is it's own kind of fermentation process btw),and dia'gah is very challenging for me to make. But it does keep indefinitely,becoming more stale,and at times even mouldy,but changing gradually all the time. I mostly freeze it as soon as it's "ready"(another uncertain term...). The long thin strips is a Scandinavian product,introduced here by gold miners a bit over 100 years ago(Alaska is just like Australia in that sense,only even newer,first white interloper up my drainage for example was russian half-breed Glazunov,in 1827). This is in contrast a complex form of salt,And fat,preservation.After "drying"(King salmon is so greasy it can never really be said to "dry"),it was packed into oaken casks,where the oil rose up to cover the fish,and acted as preservative. This i've actually never tried in that purely traditional form,and not sure just how stale or sour that fish oil may've gotten by the time weather turns to freezing. I also terminate these processes by simply freezing. Frozen,this stuff doesn't last forever,either.It's hard to package hermetically,and keeps on getting staler and drier("freezer-burned" in local usage). In general it works to keep it till almost the next fishing season,any longer and it may affect your fishing luck.... I'm not(i hope)being so long-winded because i'm a freak...It really is an infinitely complex,organic system(-s),flexible,ever-changing,rooted in some intensely complicated issues... All over the world Every culture does something of this kind.Cheese,cultured sausage,wine,bread even,and many,Many other ways to take advantage of that symbiosis we have with ambient aerobic bacterium.... " I fillet my fish and then skin and crumb or batter and deep fry with chips is my favourite way but probably not the healthiest." I totally relate!I think it's the best,and can be just fine if the grease is of a good sort.Often a big sheefish here would have enough fat around it's guts to almost fill the frying pan to overflowing...I use it to do just what you say,(if often too lazy to bread it...:)
  30. 4 points
    Sorry for the delay. Between work and the fire department, it's been a crazy week for me. I'm just now finding some time to chill out and relax a little. Here's the main products of the forging session @Jeremy Blohm and I had last weekend: 42 layers of 1084/15n20 and a 2lb version of Jeremy's Type 1(?) Hammer head. It was pretty much my first time forging anything that wasn't a blade or a fire poker, and definitely my first time playing with a power hammer. It still blows my mind that he was able to take a chunk out of the center section of a railroad track, similar to this: and turn it into a hammer head. I still can't thank you enough for letting me invade for the day. I'm looking forward to doing it again! I also had a nice surprise today. One of our new guys on the fire department found out that I play around with knife making and asked if I needed any wood for handles. When I asked him what kind of wood he was talking about, he went out to his car and came back with these two slabs of walnut: He said that these are the types of pieces that they cut out and throw away at his shop. As I was picking my jaw up off the floor, he started rambling on about birdseye maple, mahogany, oak burl, etc. I think I may have a new best friend!
  31. 4 points
    A few more handles done today Bushcraft hunter with micarta, Thumbrest skinner with swamp kauri over micarta, skinner with ebony over copper, mini skinner with impala jigged horn over blue liner, mini skinner with macrocarpa over micarta, hunter skinner with swamp kauri over ebony, and another hunterskinner with eucalyptus over micarta.
  32. 4 points
    So I had started on this one sometime last summer, put it in a drawer and completely forgot about it until I stumbled upon it this friday only really needing handle scales. The blade is made from an old harrow spring and this time I was experimenting with an asymmetrical grind. The back is completely flat with the bevel on the front that extends throughout the tang. It did make fitting the bolster and nagel a bit fiddly but wasn't too bad. It has a 30cm long blade that is 8mm thick up at the bolster I have no idea what kind of wood I put on it as those scales have been in my drawer for a long time and the label was lost. Pins are simply copper tubing. With it all assembled I do feel the nagel is a bit too long but overall it came out alright.
  33. 4 points
    This is lhe latest colaberation knife made by myself and Petr Florianek. Inspired by saxon swords the 11" blade and handle are made by me and the carving and Sterling silver handle ornamentation is by Petr. going for the bling bling! Hope you like it.
  34. 4 points
    Been real busy with not much shop time lately. Finally was able to spend some time in the shop today and just been working on finishing up this knife that had been sitting in the shop close to finished for about 6 months. Mostly happy with it. Cruforge V and ringed gidgee handle. Still some residues on the blade
  35. 4 points
    A day of handsanding with this lot all ready for handles now.
  36. 3 points
    Well... greetings y'all. It has been a hot minute. Made this for a friend who's about to have their first kid. Now, it was NOT my idea for the handle material and filework... I'm over it. Too flashy, even for me. I am so rusty it's not even funny, but I can still grind decent bevels I guess. Thanks for lookin y'all!
  37. 3 points
    Something like this: I've yet to hand finish the blade and I may add some simple filework to the guard like a fuller running around the middle of it.
  38. 3 points
    Went out and caught 3 Barra. And kept a 66cm one for dinner. I also get to test my new knife.
  39. 3 points
  40. 3 points
    Seax with decorated scabbard, hand forged blade from EN45 steel, hilt made bog oak, deer antler, leather and brass. Scabbard made of vegetable tanned leather with brass fittings, with leather loops to hang the seax on belt. Overall length 370mm, blade length 250mm, blade width (at the widest point) 35mm, blade thickness 4mm. Thank you Jacek video-1584546483.mp4 video-1584548208.mp4
  41. 3 points
    I'm thinking my next will be a dagger so I got out the pen & paper for a preliminary rough sketch. At this point it is only a rough concept and I'm sure that it will go through many changes. This is the way I often start and will probably leave this alone and ruminate on it for a while and then alter the design to what seems appropriate. I'm fairly certain that I want to do a San Mai blade of some style and a fluted handle. Past that, everything is fluid and up for change.
  42. 3 points
    You're missing the obvious solution: Make more hammers to fill it up.
  43. 3 points
    hi all, Please see recent work and first attempt to make Gaucho knife. Blade material: EN45 steel Hilt material: american walnut, bog oak, bone. Dimensions: length of the blade 270mm, overall length 395mm, width 35mm, thickness 5mm Thank you
  44. 3 points
  45. 3 points
    My GF just got back from Iceland and brought me some souvenirs The sword handle is a wall-mounted bottle opener. Going to be very handy. The single-malt Icelandic Whiskey had the barley smoked over... sheep dung!?! Should be interesting. Apparently it’s their most popular one. Oh, and also this: It’s a horned Viking helmet for your beer bottle. Press the lever on the left and the helmet lifts to allow you to drink. Can’t wait to forget it’s on the bottle .
  46. 3 points
    Thanks for keeping me honest Josh. I took a closer look tonight and it was about .030" off the center line at the worst spot. I fiddled with it for 45 minutes or so and managed to straighten it out quite a bit.
  47. 3 points
    I've now got the carved hilt completed. Once I get the san mai blade sanded & etched it will be ready for assembly.
  48. 3 points
    Never does a man stand so tall than when he stoops to help another. Remember, wherever you go in life, there you are.
  49. 3 points
    D2 is incredibly hardenable. It can also be used to remove the abrasive from sandpaper with no harm to itself. It is also good hammering practice because you can't dent it easily...
  50. 3 points
    Forging the Blade The raw material for this blade spent most of the last century on a former homestead. A large portion of the steel was used for another blade, this was the piece cut from half of the left side. Slowly drying the clay for yaki-ire over the embers in the charcoal forge. After yaki-ire, an #80 grit Sun Tiger stone reveals the approximate hamon as the geometry is set. Habaki Habaki forged to shape in preparation for silver soldering in the charcoal forge. The habaki is textured with files and patinated using a blend of copper salts similar to rokusho. Ireko Saya A two part black buffalo horn (ura) and blond cow horn (omote) lock keeps the two halves aligned when joined. The omote half contains the edge entirely and has an oil collecting reservoir at the tip. The ura half does not contain the edge, keeping it entirely in the omote half. Kataki Tsuka & Saya The hardwood block is split and carved out to fit the ireko saya and the tang and then rejoined using sokui (rice paste glue). This wood is very hard on tools and they require frequent sharpening. Nori-urushi, a mixture of natural urushi lacquer and sokui is used to reinforce certain areas, particularly the koiguchi where the wood is thinner. Mixing the urushi and sokui along with a bit of extra water to help it cure inside the joint. It can take at least a month to fully cure nori-urushi inside a wood joint, more time is better for strength. After the nori-urushi is fully cured the tsuka and saya are shaped with kanna and smoothed with fine rasps and the horn mekugi peg is fitted. An antler crown and tip are used to form a very organic kurikata (栗形, a cord loop) and obidome (帯留, “belt stop”), usually called kaerizuno (返角, “turn-back horn”). The antler kurikata is fit to the saya using a carved sliding dovetail, with no room to spare! The kurikata slides in from one side and then tightens as it reaches the final position. The obidome has a tenon that fits into a mortise carved in the saya, again carved right to the ireko saya. The obidome/kaerizuno will be attached with sokui after the saya is lacquered. In preparation for lacquering, the open grain is cleared of dust using a stiff brush. Ready for fukiurushi, the thin layer of wiped on urushi will preserve the interesting surface texture of the wood. After the lacquer has cured the surface has become a rich, glossy dark chocolate colour. Polishing Once all the parts are made and fitted the blade can be taken through the final polishing stages using Japanese waterstones. The natural #700 used to remove the last of the arato/kongo-do stone scratches. Several stones later, hazuya and jizuya fingerstones made from flakes of uchigumori-do and narutaki-do koppa attached to washi paper with natural urushi are used to even the surface and add depth. This stage is very time consuming as is the uchigumori-do before it. The fine surface grain of the steel brought out by the uchigumori stone throws multiple colours in sunlight. Final Assembly A look at all the koshirae parts before assembly Antler kurikata and obidome attached using sokui and tapped into place with a small mallet. Inserting the ireko saya into the koshirae. Completed aikuchi koshirae. Furusato tanto forged from reclaimed antique steel. View of the spine with peaked iori mune. Macro detail of the interesting texture of the Tshikalakala wood pores.
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