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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/21/2020 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    My latest sword a patternwelded single edged viking with patternwelded fittings. hope you like it. stay safe out there.
  2. 7 points
    Finishing this up. Water quenched 1095 blade, copper guard plate, antler bolster with carved birds head cartouches , carved box burl handle, leather sheath: let me know what you think...
  3. 5 points
    Plum tree had ripe fruit so a day of making sauce, jam and some preserves but still have more preservers to do The I was tempted by some nice wood so have these coming Tasmanian Blackwood Yellow Cedar Burl And some black lacewood I bought last week And last but not least a block of redwood burl
  4. 5 points
    Well, I courageously executed the first-fire on my forge today. Nothing blew up, but I did lose much of the hair on my forge lighting arm. It's going to take me a little time to figure out the balance of propane pressure and forced air pressure, but I'll get there. Pretty excited about the whole thing.
  5. 4 points
    I got a start on a new Bowie blade today for my existing inlaid handle. This one is from a piece of 1 3/4" W1 round rod. I haven't decided yet if I will give it a hamon or not. [ W1 does a very nice hamon should I decide to do a differential H/T.] My old elbow wore out today before I had the forging complete on it. I'll try to do better tomorrow.
  6. 4 points
    Well it sure has given me something to think about. I am going to do some more experimenting with different steels however this latest knife seems to be what I was hoping for so I will stick with that blade geometry. Once finished I will test my edge retention on 6 chickens as I can’t seem to catch any fish lately. I will debone and make them into rolled roasts (just learnt how to tie the Butchers Knot. Here it is so far. I decided to use some brass bolsters and water buffalo horn. I chose to use the part of the horn with the groves as I thought it gives it a bit of character. Still got a fair bit of finishing to go on handle and blade where glue squeezed out from bolster.
  7. 4 points
    As you can see here, I ended up giving this dagger/toothpick a simple, traditional style hilt. I'm saving the wire inlaid hilt for a future Bowie knife.
  8. 4 points
    Had a fun forging day today with John of this manor (not sure of his user name!) The press tooling worked well for punching, but I forgot to photo, Ill get some pics next time I remember. I made a tiny rounding hammer from a massive bearing roller, for my 4 yr old sprog - about a pound at a guess
  9. 3 points
    Up front sure, but then you have to pay someone to shovel dragon poo for years. And I don't even want to think about the increase in insurance premiums for fire coverage.
  10. 3 points
    Well... greetings y'all. It has been a hot minute. Made this for a friend who's about to have their first kid. Now, it was NOT my idea for the handle material and filework... I'm over it. Too flashy, even for me. I am so rusty it's not even funny, but I can still grind decent bevels I guess. Thanks for lookin y'all!
  11. 3 points
    Something like this: I've yet to hand finish the blade and I may add some simple filework to the guard like a fuller running around the middle of it.
  12. 3 points
    Went out and caught 3 Barra. And kept a 66cm one for dinner. I also get to test my new knife.
  13. 3 points
  14. 2 points
    Great knife Geoff. When used correctly it shouldn't need to be sharpened often. It would be up to the user to keep this from happening. Of coarse I know how people are and you are right, the edge will become concave. Which brings me to... Charge him to straighten and re-sharpen the edge. I could keep the edge straight. First, I would make this blade off limits to my wife. Who in their right mind would cut things up on a ceramic plate?
  15. 2 points
    Also true. If a customer asks for something because he thinks that will suit him best, who am I to argue with him? It's not my job to tell someone how to spend their money. I have another customer who wants me to make a "Japanese vegetable cleaver". (As he described it) He also wants a straight edge. I have not made it yet. I am waiting for him to pester me for it.
  16. 2 points
    I'm inept at social media, so the only way I could figure out how to share this with the forum was to copy the image from Facebook. I could live behind this... If anyone knows the maker, please chime in with the proper credit.
  17. 2 points
    It would work well, but you'll appreciate some belly at tip, or the tip may accidentally get stuck in your piece of meat and damage it. Thank you for the nice words btw. I am still learning a lot every knife but also got some stuff figured out. Yet, there's a long way to go! And that bolster is in fact sculpted. That's something I like to do every once in a while .
  18. 2 points
    I drilled out the hole in the forge for the burner. I should be getting this thing running tonight. Thanks for the help everyone
  19. 2 points
    with my classes cancelled for a few weeks I am managing to get some good work done!
  20. 2 points
    Not having any shows up coming has somehow chased me back into the shop, go figure. I'm working on several things, but today I spent getting a piece ready to HT. I had ground this as far as I was comfortable, but I was afraid that I was going screw up what I already had, so I set it aside to consider. I decided to draw file and then while doing it I spotted a sen that I had been playing with and tried that. The piece is a Naginata Naoshi, a cut down and remounted Naginata blade, remounted in this case (I think, I haven't gotten that far) as a long handled Wak. I'll know more after the quench. This side was draw filed only. I still need to file the spine. You can see what I had to deal with and where it ended up This side I started with the sen. My sen is made from a D2 planer blade (I think it's D2), it needs to be resharpened every 10 minutes so. In the end I went back to the file for the tip and a spot in the edge where the sen kept getting caught in a dip. You can see that this is a beast and there is a ton of work yet to do. This was forged from a RR clip, I don't generally use found steel, but I read though the pinned topic and I think I'm ready to give this a go. I'm going to clay and oil quench, so I may lose a bit of the sori. The sen works pretty well, but it needs some skill. It bites in and it chatters, but at the right angle it really moves some steel Geoff
  21. 2 points
    Ahh, the youth of today. That would be Charles Dickens. At least you have good taste in music
  22. 2 points
    Though I said I would wait until HT, I think it will make it out alive. So, this is about a 24" bladed broadsax of the Norwegian flavor with a spine made of high P wrought, 2 twisted rods of 15n20, and 1080, and a cutting edge of 1080. The colag is in as simple of terms as I could put it, because I sent it to someone who asked me what I do, (the outcome of that; I was supposed to do a demo in May) so I avoided the word "welding" as much as I could. ...And here it is with an 80 grit rough sand. Now I need to track down copious amounts of canola oil in the middle of a beer plague. I'm thinking I can brave the dollar store if I keep distance, use my card, and sanitize good. I've done a good job so far dodging the rest of world. Also, I realized half of my sword quench tank was used to build my power hammer. To be continued!
  23. 2 points
    I'm with you Brian! Unrelated: I'm hoping people considered stockpiling contraceptives.
  24. 2 points
    Interesting dynamic in the group. I see opinions spanning (and I don't mean these labels to be condescending) from "Humans are evil, and we are all doomed" to more of the "Hippie peace and love" vibe. I actually find this encouraging because diversity of thought is one of our most valuable assets. We won't get anywhere new if we all think the same. I don't know why I am typing this out other than some need to help make things better. Ultimately this is probably a waste of bandwidth, but here is what I have come to believe about the human race. Humans are naturally capitalistic (opportunistic if you will). It is in our DNA to make our personal situation a little bit better tomorrow than it is today. We will work hard to do that, but only as hard as absolutely necessary; meaning it is natural to try to get as much as you can for as little work as possible. However, we are also social by nature which means we are emotionally connected enough to our immediate peers that we share with them, and will work together for a local common good. This emotional connection, for most, has a pretty small geographical range. I feel exponentially more empathy when someone is hurting in my immediate space than someone 1000 miles away, whether I know them or not. There are some who seem to not be limited by distance, but I don't think they are anywhere near the majority. So what does all this mean? Humans adapt and overcome. The capitalistic nature is a good thing in that it drives us to innovate and make things "Better". Were it not for this drive, we would still be hunter/gatherers. However, left completely unchecked, the natural competition this creates would lead to an extreme in haves and have-nots. It's good to have a more socialistic voice from time-to-time to remind us to be kind to our more distant neighbors. This brings me back to the diversity of thought. (Which is the real value to social diversity, but this concept gets lost in the political hub-bub of today) Capitalistic tendencies, taken to their extreme, will not lead to the best overall result. Even the most powerful individual in such a system would arguably be better off if a few other individuals had enough resources to drive their own innovations. However, a little bit of socialism goes a long way to keeping things in check. If you reduce the reward I get for trying to make my life better, I will stop trying. AS someone who believes in a free-market, I am afraid of the rise in US based socialism we are seeing, but I am wholeheartedly confident that human nature will push the pendulum back the other way eventually, and this is all part of a social balance. The worst case scenarios that we have seen in the world are horrible for a few generations, but the human spirit eventually gets back to a capitalistic balance. Which takes me back to why I started typing all of this. The current threat is mostly economic. Sadly, some people are going to die. However, this doesn't look like it is going to wipe out 25% of the population. That doesn't make someone's death any less tragic for their peer group, but the reality is that the vast majority of the population will be here when this is over so we are not talking about a post-apocalyptic scenario. This means that when it is all over, it will be back to business as usual, and we will all band back together in little groups to start improving our situations again. Furthermore, we won't be starting from scratch, but starting where we last left off. I'm not saying this to trivialize the hardships many are going to face. Cash flow is king, and nothing short of a health crisis is as frightening as not being able to buy groceries, or make the house payment. The only thing that I can say that might help is that the whole world is in the same situation, and people who can make things are generally more valuable than those who can't. This forum is full of people who can make things. I'm confident that ya'll will come out on top when this is over.
  25. 2 points
    This is why temper colors are not to be trusted. Too many variables. But you all know that, and also know that I had to say it.
  26. 2 points
    Incredible. That pommel, set into the handle with its texture and finish is absolutely beautiful and very motivating. And when the wife says that. You should be very proud my friend! Another reason why a handmade blade means so much! Months of thinking,pondering, erasing, and planning. I salute you!! Tom
  27. 2 points
    Just started to make this fairbairn_sykes commando knife, a double first for me! First time in the shop since December, after health problems First commission for a knife, hope I can pull it off!!!.
  28. 2 points
    Well they are done...Tru-Oil on all 3. Wax on just wood handles.
  29. 2 points
    "clean, quiet and utterly without drama"............Dat dere sounds like me. Here's pictorial proof the forge is finished:
  30. 1 point
    This is my most recent kitchen piece. The prototype for this is the single most used knife in my block, to the point if we are both working, my wife and I have to pass it back and forth, I should just make another for the house. 250mm pretty flat at the heel but swept at the tip. Geoff
  31. 1 point
    I love the profile of the entire knife and how you did the scales at ricasso. That detail is a very nice touch. Well done sir!
  32. 1 point
    I was retired from smithing up till about 3 years and change ago.. I primarily forge now when I make a video for YT or get a question asked by a newb or during demo season or teaching which happens at event and such.. I was asked to gather up some of my work of which there was none from before that 3 years mark and change. So, all I have is new work other than the wakizashi which is a reject as the measurements are off. It was interesting to me that I have actually forged a good amount of bladed skulduggery and this does not include the blades that have been sold. Nor any of the other items forged (hammers, thumblatches, hardies, forkes, spoons, etc, etc)..
  33. 1 point
    That appears to be the Dragon Gate at Harlech House, Dublin. Warning: I haven't seen such a bad website in many years.
  34. 1 point
    I like that knife Garry. I may play around with a design similar to that. I could never improve on perfection.
  35. 1 point
    A woodworking friend was visiting me in the shop and we spent a day forging a couple of kitchen knives. I don't have pictures of all the steps. We started with 4.5" of 3/4in round bar (W1) and forged an integral bolster. Blade lengths ended up between 6 - 7in. Here are some photos starting with normalizing and then fitting the cocobolo scales. The bolsters are hard to see and we had very limited time so everything was a little bit rushed: We hand filed the bolster to create a better fit with the wood and then drilled holes in each scale: Glued up with slow setting epoxy: The final result. The hamon on this knife did not work out as the clay came off during quenching. I'll post a photo once the other knife is done: If you think the process may be of interest, I could make it another video project.
  36. 1 point
    I have refrained from posting here intentionally in order to get past any initial reactions. It has become obvious that this has become a serious situation but not one that needs to create the panic that many have shown to it. We have gotten past the outbreaks of ebola and West Nile and we will get past covid-19. Please do a little due diligence and don't be too eager to believe all that is on the net or media. There has been a lot of misinformation out there. And as been suggested by our president, "Don't make the cure worse than the disease." Just avoid close contact as much as possible. Wash your hands and disinfect surfaces that you touch often. Use your head and we'll get through this. I'm in one of the most vulnerable groups being over 70 with an pre-existing heart disease and will continue to be cautious but I'm not going to let stress & worry over this cause even worse ill effects. Be smart. Be safe. And keep the forge fires burning. Gary
  37. 1 point
    This is the knife I made for slicing meat with that very usage in mind Randy. I use it after I have boned out and either steaking or dicing for stews or to further process into ground meat. To use it there is the slightest curve to the blade with just a touch more toward the tip and I have the tip on the board and slice going forward and drag lightly backward to reposition for the next forward cut. It has worked as well as I had anticipated it would.
  38. 1 point
    I'll have to look into that! In the past I've done research when I wasn't able to work on knives, but now I might be able to do both. I finished the leuku and it has been soaking up tones of linseed oil. I'll take better pictures at some point, but with so many knives in the works, I'll wait until a few more are done. I've tried it out a little bit, and the geometry is definitely an improvement over the last one. The fullering on the short Sakha knife and the pre-ht grind on the other. The forge-finish fuller that a lot of modern versions of these knives have seem to be somewhat a-historic, with old originals being either flat or hollow ground on the right side. In this case, the left side is flat ground and will have a secondary bevel with the right side being ground on an 8" wheel. The shorter one after being straightened and having the second groove chiseled in. Both the fuller and the groove need to be deeper that you would think they should because they were done onto an as-forged surface. It's tempting to grind the surface clean after bending, but if you do that it will be crowned when you straighten it (ask me how I know ). The geometry of the chisel is also important; if the included angle is too high, you end up with a groove that is too shallow and gets ground out. If it's too low the groove won't get wide enough and the chisel will dull faster. A generous radius is also important so you can "walk" the cut up the blade. The plan is to grind this one then do some file work on the spine and go to heat treat.
  39. 1 point
    I'm no expert but thought you might appreciate these photos of sword fullers. If it were me, I would make a tightly fitted guard and not worry about a small gap between the guard and fuller. If possible one could silver solder a small piece to fill the gap. Not going to proclaim this approach is period correct, just an idea from a novice.
  40. 1 point
    Have you considered chisels? I find a nice half-round die-sinker's chisel to be the very ticket. Just take a rod of something cheap and hardenable, grind to shape, harden, and go to town. When it chips, grind it back and continue. Coil spring is great for this. Once it's roughed in, then go to files.
  41. 1 point
    I do feel bad for the people being laid off, and I do think the response is only slightly overblown. The problem is we are not being told the WHY of not leaving the house for two to four weeks, and people are scared. The media, especially the social kind, is not helping. It is in the best interest of humanity to stay apart until the virus runs its course, that is the reason for the shutdowns. If there were no shutdowns, people (being essentially silly, ignorant creatures) would continue to congregate and pass it around. It's not deadly to the vast majority of people, but it is serious enough that it would clog the healthcare network in a couple of weeks if we don't act like adults and just step back to break the cycle. We've seen too many zombie movies and it's freaked people out unreasonably. Hoarding guns and toilet paper is ridiculous. If we calm the heck down and stay low for a few weeks it'll be gone (or at least contained) in a couple of months. The reason it's so bad in northern Italy is that they did not implement isolation measures until it was way too late. But they seem to have turned the corner as of this weekend. This doesn't turn you into a zombie. This usually doesn't kill you*. But it does make you a drain on the already overstressed system if you do get a serious case of it. Be adult, tell the fearful to get over it and man the heck up. We'll get through this. *I am in the higher risk group, being 50ish, a former smoker, recently recovered from pneumonia, and on immunosuppressant therapy for psoriatic arthritis, which I may stop for a while. I don't want to deal with being sick for a month again. edited to add: I'm also out of breath from helping a neighbor round up some escaped cattle and rebuilding much of the fence, and of course we talked about all this. He just had his spleen removed on January 28 and is moving slow. Very few cases around us, but there are a few. We agreed to keep it that way.
  42. 1 point
    I've thought about doing something like that. I've done an one and a half independent studies on heat treating and metallography, and also got a bit of credit and reimbursement for materials for making punches and drifts so it's definitely within the realm of possibility. It is notoriously hard to get any kind of humanities credits for an independent study at my school because they are a graduation requirement, but I could probably get 1/2 a class or so of typeless credits. It's a little tricky at first (filing the groove to a uniform depth is deceptively difficult), but it gives very clean results. It seems like it has been used for at least 100 years to make this kind of fuller, possibly longer. Made a bit of progress on the Leuku: Here it is after 120 grit plumber's tape. I may have positioned the tang poorly in this block and sanded off all of the interesting part, but I guess I'll see once I get it to a higher grit.
  43. 1 point
    Great stuff Alex. Congrats on the successful HT. If I may give you an unsolicited piece of advice, it would be this: Take the guard off the blade and lay the blade on a piece of paper. Trace the outline and make several photocopies. Now set yourself to designing the rest of the picture. Make all of the other parts sized based on the dimensions of the blade in whole number ratios. If you have a compass, use it to determine the length of the blade, half the length, 1/3. 1/4. etc. This will help layout the handle, guard, and everything else in direct proportion to the blade length and width.
  44. 1 point
    Dont be too discouraged if people dont want you around their forge. Having poeple around, and sharing the knowledge is a royal PITA, although it can be very rewarding for the person teaching, I do it occastionally when someone shows enough interest, or I owe them a favour. The reality of it is, in simple terms, unless they have more money than they know what to do with it would be better value for them to give you $100 and carry on with what they are doing that loose a couple of hours of their day. Most people I know, my self included, generally have 12 hours work to do in an 8 - 10 hour day. I learnt forging from the internet, and a bit of guidance from people like Owen Bush & Mick Maxen, who were willing to give lots of hints and tips. Im really good now at patternwelding, I can stick pretty well anything to anything, and have a very high success rate (im shocked if something goes wrong, my expectation is it will go will go perfectly) - The reason Im good at patternwelding is I am a good learner from my own mistakes, there are only so many ways you can get a process wrong. If you remember why it went wrong, and dont repeat that mistake you will improve, and get good at a process. Time at the anvil, even when it is all going wrong is the best teacher. Just etch what went wrong in your memory, and think why and what you can do better next time, and before you know it people will be asking you for advice. (and make sure you have fun doing it, and stay philosophical about the mistakes, they are what make you better )
  45. 1 point
    This is why you don't light a gas forge with a match. The prevailing methods are either the trigger-start propane torch aimed in while you crack the gas valve, or the flaming wad of paper. The flaming wad of paper method has the bonus of producing a flaming wad of paper shooting across the shop, and therefore is favored by many. The torch method is clean, quiet, and utterly without drama, and thus appeals to those who prefer such things.
  46. 1 point
    Never did cotton to messing up my underwear! Got over that shortly after filling my last diaper. Don't remember when that was because my "rememory" doesn't go back that far. Just finished plumbing the forge. It's ready to fire up. Will be a little while, though. Gettin' down to the wire and I'm pumped. I'm just a tad apprehensive to put match to gas on this thing. Kind of like the first time you close a circuit breaker on a 220V line. Regular pansy! I have no reason to think I've done anything wrong on the project, but who knows. Everything seems in order. My new 100# propane tank is empty and will have to stay that way for some time. Told Vikki I was going to need her help taking one of the small propane tanks off the trailer to give the forge a try. She asked how much it weighed. When I told her it was 35#, she said to call the surgery department and see if the two of us could lift that just long enough to put it on a wagon. Surgery Nurse said absolutely not. I'm not to lift more than 10# until after six weeks of healing after the surgery. I asked why, when I'm starting to feel a little better. She said they moved enough things around in my belly that I'd run the risk of a hernia. Oh crap! That's all I need...............cause yet another surgery. So I'll be waiting on the firing for a while. Unless one of you kind bladesmiths, who can guarantee you don't have this Chinese Virus, could come and do the lifting.
  47. 1 point
    pretty sure that will just be blind pins and epoxy. As it is recessed it never encounters any kind of mechanical load. I once had a customer turn up with some other pieces in his collection. One was a very fancy looking modern scandi with the multi piece handle. When he took it out of the sheath the mammoth pommel fell of - it had just been epoxied directly to a silver spacer. I drilled and blind pinned it and epoxied it back in place for him while he waited...
  48. 1 point
    Mine says the EXACT same line! I do want to add that I did soften her up to a degree when I bought her a compound dissecting microscope from Nikon complete with a dual LED snake lamp and microscope mounted digital camera for her birthday (she's an ecologist that studies spiders and has been wanting a good scope for YEARS). I can now hold over her that she has the most expensive "tool" in the house. The fact that I will be able to use her scope to take pictures of grain patterns and Damascus patterns NEVER played into my thought process...
  49. 1 point
    When some makers hand me their latest work and ask me what I think, one of the first things I look at is whether the guard is square to the blade and the handle is centered on the blade. When done correctly, the center line down the spine of the blade should be the same line extended through the center of the handle. Too often this is not the case and the blade is crooked looking. On daggers, the most common mistake I see is the center rib is not perfectly straight and centered down the blade. This is a common speed bump for newer makers and I was taught a simple method for getting it right that I am going to share with you. The guard stock should be set on the blade (not shaped yet) and only thing you need, tool wise, is a small mirror. Let's look at two blades. Yes, I know that's a piece of walnut on the dagger. It's there for demonstration purposes, and as long as the front face is smooth and flat, it works. On the Bowie blade, you are basically checking that the guard is square to the center line down the spine. Once you gat the guard square, you can push the handle up against the back face and it will be square as well. The position for holding the mirror is across the top of the guard like this. Now look straight down the blade into the mirror. If the guard isn't square, the reflection will be crooked to one side or the other. This one needs to come down further on the right side of the blade (left side in photo) So you tap that side down a little at a time while keeping the other side where it is, and adjust until the reflection is straight in line.
  50. 1 point
    I worked on one of Neil Burridge's bronze swords, the Wilburton type. I sharpened the edges, including widening the edge bevels to make it more accurate, and brought the finish up to 400 grit. I finished the hilt plates, and oiled them. Next up: sand the blade up to 1000 grit, buff it, make the pommel and assemble it.
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