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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/19/2020 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Hello everyone, The last month or so I have been working on a Damascus hunting knife with a stabilized beech handle. Since I am taking pictures for my Instagram account anyway, I figured it would be nice to post this on the ‘’old fashioned’’ forums as well. For this hunting knife I am going for a more traditional design than I would normally do, this is a ‘’simple’’ drop point hunter with a guard and hopefully a takedown handle. On this knife I really want to focus on my fit and finish, normally one of my weaker points in knifemaking. As I normally make historically inspired knives doing a modern knife comes with a lot of firsts and I have really enjoyed working on it so far. For instance: this is the first time I’m trying sweeping plunges, a takedown design or working with stabilized wood. I went through several different designs and did a lot of tweaking to get this knife exactly where I want it. Carbon tracing paper is a huge help in trying out different handle shapes. The blade material is 450 layer random pattern Damascus, the steels are O2 and 75Ni8. To test if the grind lines I’d drawn were actually possible I ground a test knife out of mild steel, the plunges turned out to not be as difficult as I had feared. The mild steel also made a great template to use when forging. Normally I would forge closer to shape, but I didn’t want to risk a stray hammer blow messing up my plunges. After a bit of grinding I heat treated the blade to +- 61 Hrc and tempered the spine and ricasso back with a torch, this gives extra toughness and also allows me to file in my tang shoulders very precisely. I tend to do most of my grinding post Heat treat, the O2 is deep hardening enough and with fresh belts there is not much risk involved. After the knife is ground, I start on the fittings, there is a guard and two spacers, the middle spacer is bronze I cast myself and the other is mild steel. The spacer assembly is held together with drilled and reamed pins, a bit of extra work, but it makes alignment very easy. A threaded piece is silver brazed to the tang, I made a bronze nut for it on my lathe to keep the entire assembly together. This allows me to pull the knife apart as many times as I want, when the knife is finished this will make re-finishing a lot easier also. The handle is made from spalted beech wood, this stabilized wood is very nice to work with, and just needs a buff to get to a nice shine. The only downside is that it really stinks when grinding. From here on it was a lot of boring polishing to get the surfaces good enough. The last thing is sharpening and making a leather sheath, and it is time to take some pictures with an actual camera.
  2. 5 points
    Been working on a blade for the past few days. It's a 9 1/4" 9 bar serpent core dagger - silver steel edges with a serpent of alternating 15n20 and 11 layer twist set in mild steel: I'm making it to fit this handle I've been working on, carved from sycamore: it's been pretty fun so far...
  3. 5 points
    A sad day. I finished this . . . no project to work on in quarantine now. So, the hell with this: I'm driving to Alaska. I start tomorrow. I just bought a 5th wheel camper and got diesel truck to tow her. Should take me 12 days. Wish me luck crossing the US/Canada border. They have closed it, but rumor has it they are letting Alaskan's through if they can prove they are residents. I'll post some photos. The handle on this one is copper, African Blackwood, moose antler, and more copper. Hope you guys like it. Dave
  4. 3 points
    Hi all, been a while since i was last here. been a difficult first half of the year and hope all are well. heres a picture dump of what ive been up to. recently, Ive been on a slipjoint craze. love making them, theres a whole other dimension with the fit and action. thanks for looking!
  5. 3 points
    Hello.. Just got this one finished..this would of gone to RPFS out in California.. but since that is not running this year..on the website it goes... 22" long blade..hugs and kisses pattern in 1095, L-6 and some meteoric iron with full length fuller each side...forged and file worked phosphor bronze mounts and some of that bowling ball material that I happened to stumble upon a while back that I fluted for the grip.. Sheath is mounted in phosphor bronze and has a gem quality carnelian inset on the throat.. At least I am starting to get caught up on some things I got behind on thanks to this idiotic shutdown..but I am still dead for 2020 as far as shows go.. Sigh.. Hope the photos work.. JPH
  6. 3 points
    Hi just shearing this viking ship inspired axe.
  7. 3 points
    First a little clay.. then heat treat. Went without incident. Into the oven at 400 for a bit and then I’ll see if I can’t finish it up tomorrow.
  8. 3 points
    I'm pretty sure that's a Jersey pattern Emerson & Steven's Co. Axe. Here is a video on how they were made.
  9. 2 points
    Recently completed project - Germanic single edged sword Hand forged blade from EN45 steel, handle from yew. Total length 1620mm, blade length 486mm, width 50mm, thickness 5m. Thank you Jacek
  10. 2 points
    Found yet another use for @JJ Simon monkey tail tongs. Perfect thing for reheating my lunch while waiting for a billet to come up to temp. Even this chain store pizza tasted better after being toasted over the dragon's breath. Ok, this is probably a terrible idea, but that pizza will probably kill me before some forge pollution.
  11. 2 points
    Hey y'all, just finished the first knife that I've ever taken all the way to completion. I've had a couple others that broke, and I have a couple others that are almost done, but this is the first I've finished. I forged it from an old cold chisel, on an anvil made from a 12# sledgehammer head set into a stump It's and integral harpoon point, with a through tang. Not sure what the wood is, maybe cocobolo, it's been kicking around my shop for years. Copper and leather spacers, and a steel buttplate. I drew heavily on advice from you guys throughout the process, so thanks a lot! Learned a lot that I'm going to apply to my next blades. I'm gonna go back and sand it some more, there's some scratches and whatnot that I missed, but overall I'm reasonably happy with it.
  12. 2 points
    Here's the latest in my sheath making. On left is a saddle tan. On the right is chocolate, it almost looks black. Hand saddle stitched. Both have a nice welt sewed in as not to cut the threads. These turned out fairly well I think. Learning on each one! Need to make another knife to try stamping/ carving leather.
  13. 2 points
    I'm on day 27 of not leaving my property. Thank god I've got a blade project to putter with. Here is a blade I just finished grinding/etching. I started it up in Alaska last Summer and mailed it down to FL for the post heat treat work. Standard 1095/15n20 mix. Twisted crushed W's make up the alternating bars under the fuller. Edge bar is a san-mai type w/ a 1000 layer core and 200 layer wrapping. Some highlight stripes between the bars. More when the fittings and grip are applied. I'm not going to rush, however. It's the only blade I have to work on, so once it's done I'm stuck w/ just mowing the lawn and pushups for entertainment. OAL is around 16" Anyone recognize this blade shape? It may seem familiar. Grins, Dave
  14. 2 points
  15. 2 points
    It took longer than I thought to finish this up, I had to source a big chunk of brass and then get the right stuff to darken the brass, and of course my bladesmith ADHD (LOOK! Shiny! OOH! LOOK, Rusty!) got in the way too. The overall dimension are close, within an 1/8th. The weight is nearly dead on at 1.52 lbs. The thing is a beast, it blasts through green Alder as thick as my arm without slowing down. Forged 5160, brass and Ipe. Mine is a bit stabbier and less choppy, but without an actual piece to compare to, I think it's pretty good.
  16. 2 points
    Well had some time to work on the Bowie today. First I layed out the leaf pattern for the handle,then did some final profiling on the guard. Then I started carving the guard here it is.
  17. 1 point
    I used 1095 because I got a pretty good price on it. Before I heat treated it I picked up a little pyrometer from Harbor Freight, I normalized it twice, brought it up to about 1480 to to 1500 and kept it there for about 10 minutes (in the forge out of the forge, in the forge out of the forge) quenched in preheated canola oil then tempered it twice at 400 degrees for 2 hours.
  18. 1 point
    Thanks everyone! I am quite pleased with this one myself, I hope i will get my hands on some more of this handle material. i ground the plunges by first doing normal plunge cuts about a half inch in front of where I wanted the plunges and then just very carefully feahtered them out on the grinder, by lifting the blade away from the belt slowly and cutting with the belt edge. I hope this makes a bit of sense. the most difficult thing was that the only belts I have that track perfectly are my 40 grits, so I had to start hand sanding at 60 grit any bit of belt wobble would mess up the swoopy plunges.
  19. 1 point
    That turned out really nice, Daniel!
  20. 1 point
    Kind of a big honesuki in 80CRV2 with ebony and stabilized maple burl. One of four I"m making for some friends who have never had decent kitchen knives. :P
  21. 1 point
    Chris, I just got my Pheer 454 grinder a few weeks ago. I love it! We have a Wilton at work, but this Pheer is way better for less money. Belt changes literally take 10 seconds or less. The Wilton takes a couple minutes to change a belt, and then re-tracking the belt is a pain. The Pheer tracks very easy. I'm really glad I bought it. I mounted mine on one of the Harbor Freight welding tables that tilts 90°. I mounted the grinder on the right side of it and the table will tilt 90° to the left making it a horizontal grinder. Haven't needed to use it that way yet, but can if I need to. I got a surface grinder attachment for it too that works awesome. Going to be making some Damascus this weekend.
  22. 1 point
    And he no longer recommends JS applicants edge quench the test blade.
  23. 1 point
    Yeah. The test blade, as Geoff noted, is meant to do one very specific job, and is not meant to be the "ultimate" heat treatment for every knife. And our boy you mention is interested in the ultimate heat treatment.
  24. 1 point
    Collar? A ferrule is usually a piece that goes around a handle, but that sort of fits () as well. A habaki is usually folded and soldered. I have made these sort of thing by milling it out of a single block, like this one Geoff
  25. 1 point
    You can get a mixed structure, but the file biting after hardening is usually due to surface decarburization. After a couple of strokes the file should skate.
  26. 1 point
    That could be, but based on descriptions of his habit from my Aunt and cousin (who is in on the present), I tend to think he collects chef knives like some people collect bowies / swords / etc. He has a LOT ! I do know he has no Damascus blades, so this one will be his first.
  27. 1 point
    Seeing as I have a few knives to show on a semi regular basis I though I would just paste them in the one thread. This is the first pair. Big Game Hunters in4 3/4 in x .156 blades of 1095. Both have buffalo horn bolsters with one having walnut scales while the other has eucalyptus
  28. 1 point
    love the work. I especially like the filet knife.
  29. 1 point
    colour me wowed with that one. Love every aspect of it and there is a lot to study on.
  30. 1 point
    The video was brilliant. Working in show business is like working at a dog park. Everyone is peeing on trees.
  31. 1 point
    And here it is all done.. I guess it didn’t come out too badly. now I just gotta finish that big fighter.
  32. 1 point
    Ok, so I reworked this based on Garry's feedback. I like it better this way, but will let the customer make the call.
  33. 1 point
    That a beauty Dave. Have fun on your trip!
  34. 1 point
    Sure do like your work, Garry.
  35. 1 point
    Great looking batch, Garry!
  36. 1 point
    Have just done the hot waxing on these today so just have to put the final edge on the blade and they can go on the courier.A 7 1/2 in chef with paper micarta on 12C27 stainless Pocket Ranger with Leopardwood over curvebacked buff horn on the 1095 blade PH EDC with macrocarpa over curve back buff horn on the 1095 blade Pig Sticker with Desert ironwood over curve backed buff on the 1095 blade with both sheath options
  37. 1 point
    Way too many bevels!! But almost ready to heat treat
  38. 1 point
    You can definitely see the steeled edge, nice! I'm not great at guessing factory axes, but that's a nice one. Not Craftsman. Handles get replaced, and as far as I know none of the old makers marked their handles. Which reminds me of the old story of "That's Grandpa's axe. It's had five new handles and two new heads, but it's his axe!"
  39. 1 point
    I see what you're talking about. But without a better look I can't tell how deep the crack is. Most of these older axes were created by forge welding a carbon steel bit into a mild steel body, look up wrapped axe. If there wasn't a good weld, then the softer steel could be cracking along the seam. Either way, don't get a welder to fix it like Gerald said. It would ruin the temper of the axe which would have to be redone making you have to shine it up again. Just get a good hickory handle in it and make a proud wall hanger of it. And remember, often the beauty of a tool isn't how shiny it is, but in the age that it shows.
  40. 1 point
    I worked on this thing today trying to get the museum fit set up, some detail shaping of the spacer package and getting rid of a gap between the spacer and guard. I'm going to try some carving for the first time on the guard and handle. I recently attended a class by Larry Fuegen he made it look easy it's not ,but what a great experience.
  41. 1 point
    I use one of these http://www.billbehnkeknives.com/available_items.html. I met Bill in a hotel in Connecticut, he was coming in for his FiF finale, and I was flying out after filming my episode. The guide works great, I love mine. Another way to deal with integrals (and I know of at least one other maker who does this) is to not make a tang at all. Drill into the bolster (pre HT) and tap it. I use a grade 8 bolt for the tang. A bit of JB weld secures it. Then it's a simple matter to make the bolster flat. Geoff
  42. 1 point
    I have collected a few pine burls overthe years. Finally turned this one into a bowl using a Kutzall shaping disc on a grinder. These are fun tools for wood carving https://kutzall.com/products/dish-wheel-extreme-4-1-2-diameter
  43. 1 point
    Priorities.... My non-functional burners, after purchasing some plumbing, now costs more than my first forge, all in. Spent the best part of Saturday morning trying to tune some life into one of the burners, gave up and started prepping 2 big chucks of 52100 for a project. Winter is here so it was good sweating over the anvil a bit, but all my efforts left me with two questions: -How do I fix those burners? -Do I trust the piece of 52100 that jumped out of the tongs right into a bucket of water? Turned off the forge, took a shower, and for the next seven days life is about 3 days of camping and fishing at Torra Bay in the magical Skeleton Coast park. Spent many childhood holidays at the coast, but I've never been to the two camps in the park. Hoping to get rid of the corona-coma and catch some serious fish, a.k.a fush
  44. 1 point
    Following on the original post, looking for advice before going to that "point of no return (without major hassle)" i.e. spending more time finishing the handle off blade and then gluing the handle together. I have the handle squared and roughed to 150 grit. It is composed of a block of "Gerhard micarta" (cool stuff!), brass spacer, and Patagonian rosewood (or better known as curupau). Questions: 1. Opinion on how the handle looks relative to the blade (good, bad, indifferent, throw the whole thing out and start again...) 2. Placement of the pin (I am thinking of drilling back an equal distance as the micarta is thick) Thanks for feedback And I do need to re-etch the whole thing. The ricasso is shiny from having taken down the shoulders...
  45. 1 point
    Between online finals, my KITH knife, and a commission for a handful of knives, I kind of fell off of this project for the time being, but I did get the handle on the small Sakha knife shaped and treated with tar. I’m really happy with how this piece of wood turned out with the tar. I’m going to be away from my shop for at least three months, but I have a list of all the supplies I want to order and a reminder of the projects I’m working on. It may be in a while, but I do plan on coming back around to make sheaths for these knives and probably making a few more.
  46. 1 point
    Nice! Always fun to finally finish a feller (...sorry)
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    A Safari Knife with brass and buffalo horn on the 1095 blade ready for an edge and shipping off to Missouri.
  49. 1 point
    Use your name. Do not put numerals in your username. Do not use a business name. Do not make up a silly nickname. Do not use the words forge, knives, swords, anvil, or even smith (unless your name is Smith, of course). We are all smiths and knifemakers here, it does not make you stand out. We have this posted all over the place, and you even have to answer "yes" to it before you can register, but apparently 2/3 of applicants either don't pay attention or don't believe we mean it. I know if you're using a phone to look at the forum you don't see a lot of the announcements and such either, so let's go over this one more time, hopefully for the last time. You do not have to use your full name. I know people have concerns about security (even though it doesn't matter, if you're online you are not anonymous and the bad guys can find out everything about you no matter what), just use something that we can tell at a glance is a genuine human name. Don't spell it backwards, that doesn't fool anyone. Business names are summarily deleted. Names with numbers in them are deleted with prejudice. Made-up nicknames are deleted with great glee. If you feel you need an exception we are not unreasonable. You will sometimes see other users with obvious nicknames. They either joined prior to 2010 when these rules became law or they got special dispensation.
  50. 1 point
    Well, it wasn't in my shop, but today was the second day of the chef knife workshop with Matthew Parkinson. So under the tutelage and guidance of MP, seven of us put handles on the knives we made. So, a brief summary is in order here. These were all forged from 1084 flat stock. The starting piece is 3/16" by 1-1/2" by 6-3/4" to the long point of a 45* angle. Here is the group of finished knives. Matthew's is on the bowl of salsa that he made with that very same knife. He would want you to know that , in case you were wondering what the patina was caused by. The salsa was delicious BTW. Here is the group of misfits who participated. (I was about to sneeze) And here is my finished Knife. 8-5/16" blade (from back of cutting edge to point) 13-9/16" oal.
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