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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/26/2020 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Just finished this up. I'll try and get proper pics and say more about it at the weekend, but It's 1075+Cr, bogoak, steel, copper and silver: let me know what you think...
  2. 9 points
    Hello everyone, The last month or so I have been working on a Damascus hunting knife with a stabilized beech handle. Since I am taking pictures for my Instagram account anyway, I figured it would be nice to post this on the ‘’old fashioned’’ forums as well. For this hunting knife I am going for a more traditional design than I would normally do, this is a ‘’simple’’ drop point hunter with a guard and hopefully a takedown handle. On this knife I really want to focus on my fit and finish, normally one of my weaker points in knifemaking. As I normally make historically inspired knives doing a modern knife comes with a lot of firsts and I have really enjoyed working on it so far. For instance: this is the first time I’m trying sweeping plunges, a takedown design or working with stabilized wood. I went through several different designs and did a lot of tweaking to get this knife exactly where I want it. Carbon tracing paper is a huge help in trying out different handle shapes. The blade material is 450 layer random pattern Damascus, the steels are O2 and 75Ni8. To test if the grind lines I’d drawn were actually possible I ground a test knife out of mild steel, the plunges turned out to not be as difficult as I had feared. The mild steel also made a great template to use when forging. Normally I would forge closer to shape, but I didn’t want to risk a stray hammer blow messing up my plunges. After a bit of grinding I heat treated the blade to +- 61 Hrc and tempered the spine and ricasso back with a torch, this gives extra toughness and also allows me to file in my tang shoulders very precisely. I tend to do most of my grinding post Heat treat, the O2 is deep hardening enough and with fresh belts there is not much risk involved. After the knife is ground, I start on the fittings, there is a guard and two spacers, the middle spacer is bronze I cast myself and the other is mild steel. The spacer assembly is held together with drilled and reamed pins, a bit of extra work, but it makes alignment very easy. A threaded piece is silver brazed to the tang, I made a bronze nut for it on my lathe to keep the entire assembly together. This allows me to pull the knife apart as many times as I want, when the knife is finished this will make re-finishing a lot easier also. The handle is made from spalted beech wood, this stabilized wood is very nice to work with, and just needs a buff to get to a nice shine. The only downside is that it really stinks when grinding. From here on it was a lot of boring polishing to get the surfaces good enough. The last thing is sharpening and making a leather sheath, and it is time to take some pictures with an actual camera.
  3. 8 points
    Hi all, I have just joined here but been reading and browsing for quite a while. I've been making knives for around half a year now, with this being number ten (and eleven), but this is my first big one that isn't a simple little eating knife so wanted to share. This is 15th/16th century German style Bauernwehr, I say style as it is not copied from anything in particular and i'm sure there will be something i have not done quite right, but I hope it looks the part. I have done this as a three piece set in the manner of medieval hunting sets, so there is a little byknife and pricker too. The blades are forged from 1075+cr (bauernwehr) and 1080 (other two), with mild steel fittings and yew handle scales. The sheath is multi pocketed to hold all three pieces, and has tooled vine decoration and a simple fabricated steel chape. The whole point of this was as an experimental learning process really so I tried to pick a knife with as many new things as possible. Probably took much longer than it should have done but I am pleased with the final result and lots learnt for the next one. Any critiques much appreciated as I am very new to this and finding my way a bit, I hope you like it! Cheers Alex
  4. 8 points
  5. 8 points
    Hello everyone !!! I hope they are well and are taking care of these difficult times. I want to show you this 17th century Spanish style rapier with an iron cup garnish, decorated with a mixed technique, engraved with pneumatic airgraver and opus interrasile (openwork work) with foliar motifs. It has a thin and straight blade, forged style, made of 5160 steel, two-sided, with two edges throughout. Wooden scabbard lined in black velvet with curb and brass tip. Total weight 900 grs Blade length 100 centimeters from the cup. 6.5mm at the fort and drops to 3m at the tip. the total length 117 Centimeters Balance point seven centimeters from the cup. it feels light and fast in the hand. hope you like!!!! best regards
  6. 7 points
    My latest Sgian Dubh, Pattern welded blade approx. 450 layers, bone handle capped with Sterling Silver fittings and pins and set with a New Zealand Greenstone (Nephrite) Total length 20 cm, Blade 10.5 cm. Scabbard leather and Sterling Silver. With special thanks to Maisie who cleaned up the bones.
  7. 7 points
    I keep fiddling with slipjoint design concepts. A while back I made a prototype of one that has a fully sunk joint so you don't see the notch in the back of the blade when the knife is closed. These two are tweaks to that concept. One is just about finished, and the other is ready for the final assembly process to start. (There is a lot of final sanding and polishing in my assembly process.) I am experimenting with 1.5 thou thick brass washers on either side of the bushing to create a slight gap between the blade and the liner. I'm hoping that eliminates the scratches that form. It looks like they will work, but I may cut the next washers out of thinner shim stock. These knives are nearly twins. Both have blades from a piece of mosaic I made a long time ago. The liners are 510 bronze which is a first for me. The bolsters are mokume-gane which I have only made once before. It's fun to do, but pretty expensive to make. These are gifts, so I have to get them finished very soon.
  8. 7 points
    The newest puukko: Blade is 100 mm x 20mm , peened nickel silver front bolster and polished rear end cap with cocobolo and ebony handle with boiled linseed oil finish. The blade has a 2mm bevel on each side of the 2mm spine. The blade was polished to 800x then gray Scotch Brite finish.
  9. 7 points
    I am not sure how it was I got away from this forum. Lots of travel with work, time on social media and spending the last couple of years developing anti-scale and hamon clay. Anyway, more back into making blades. The name for this is a bit tongue in cheek I admit. Kind of a hit with the local crowd. Composite picture of one knife/sword. Loosely based off of a type of Yanagi-ba. 18" blade W2 steel Single bevel Hollow back Saya-European yew and desert ironwood Hamon Oiled leather sheath for saya
  10. 7 points
    Sunrise over South Otago new Zealand this morning.
  11. 6 points
    Cool stuff Gerhard! On my side, I sharpened a petty I made for our household. 26c3 steel at 63-64hrc and micarta scales. Sort of a kitchen scalpel... I couldn't sweep the blade straight, it kept gripping in hairs.
  12. 5 points
    Been working on a blade for the past few days. It's a 9 1/4" 9 bar serpent core dagger - silver steel edges with a serpent of alternating 15n20 and 11 layer twist set in mild steel: I'm making it to fit this handle I've been working on, carved from sycamore: it's been pretty fun so far...
  13. 5 points
    A sad day. I finished this . . . no project to work on in quarantine now. So, the hell with this: I'm driving to Alaska. I start tomorrow. I just bought a 5th wheel camper and got diesel truck to tow her. Should take me 12 days. Wish me luck crossing the US/Canada border. They have closed it, but rumor has it they are letting Alaskan's through if they can prove they are residents. I'll post some photos. The handle on this one is copper, African Blackwood, moose antler, and more copper. Hope you guys like it. Dave
  14. 5 points
    Only been plodding along on this one since the end of January... This is the first folder I've done from homemade plans. Kind of made me wish I knew how to do CAD stuff, almost. All done on paper. Anyway: Based on a few different 18th century folding knives I've seen, both in person and in photos. 3/32" O-1 steel, nickel silver (should be iron, but I didn't want to draw iron pins since that would mean I'd have to make a drawplate), and cow bone from a chew toy from the farm store. It's not quite done yet. The blade needs a bit more polishing, it's not been sharpened, and I haven't decided if I'm going to add anything to the side panels of the handle. Originals of the period had more decoration, but my wife convinced me to lean neoclassical rather than baroque. Open, it's around 7", closed around 4.5". 1/2" thick at the widest. Weighs around 7 ounces. It's a heavy bugger, in other words. Feels good in the hand, though. Like I said, still needs some scratches removed, but I thought I should show I do still actually make stuff...
  15. 5 points
    Just finished this up, another of the plain kitchen knives I make for friends and locals. *" blade, through hardened Cs70 with a differential temper, 2mm on the spine, tapering to 1.5 at the break, S ground, with an etched and buffed scotchbrite finish, bubinga scales and copper pins: let me know what you think...
  16. 5 points
    Rear spacer done. For those who watch this and wonder how the texture is done on the copper, it's by peening with a small rounded punch.
  17. 5 points
    Just thought I'd add an update with pictures of the knives mounted in their new home and the first meal they prepared.
  18. 5 points
    Howdy!! Well thanks to all of this idiotic stay at home stuff that is going on that wound up getting all my spring and summer shows canceled.. I am now finishing all the higher end stuff I usually send out to my E-Vile minions to sell at the various shows I have them displayed at..and posting them for sale on my site. So here's another one from an Old Man's front yard... This one's a rather long Pattern Welded Dagger in my "Hugs and Kisses" pattern (It has a repeated series of X and O running down the centre) Blade is double edged and is 17 1/4" in length and welded from a mix of 1095, L-6 and some meteoric iron for grins and giggles.. Full length fuller each side. I love fullers..they make the blade look "finished" if you ask me... Forged and file worked/roped phosphor bronze fittings.. Now the grip is some of that bowling ball material I scrounged up a wee bit ago and that is hand fluted. The oxblood leather sheath is mounted in phosphor bronze with a 27.91 ct star ruby set on the sheath throat.. ( Cut the ruby myself from some rough a friend in India sent to me.. His family owns several mines over there).This one has an overall length of 24"... All in all it didn't turn out too bad for an old man.. Goes up for sale this evening on my site along with the other two fancy ones..if all goes as planned that is... JPH
  19. 5 points
    I have not posted anything for a while but here is one I just finished, Pattern welded blade (sorry lost count of the layers), New Zealand Black Maire handle capped with coin bronze ferrule and guard, the pommel has a 1 cent coin inlaid (out of circulation) the fittings are made out of the same bronze.Total length 25.5 cm Blade to guard 13 cm. Richard
  20. 4 points
    I'm on day 27 of not leaving my property. Thank god I've got a blade project to putter with. Here is a blade I just finished grinding/etching. I started it up in Alaska last Summer and mailed it down to FL for the post heat treat work. Standard 1095/15n20 mix. Twisted crushed W's make up the alternating bars under the fuller. Edge bar is a san-mai type w/ a 1000 layer core and 200 layer wrapping. Some highlight stripes between the bars. More when the fittings and grip are applied. I'm not going to rush, however. It's the only blade I have to work on, so once it's done I'm stuck w/ just mowing the lawn and pushups for entertainment. OAL is around 16" Anyone recognize this blade shape? It may seem familiar. Grins, Dave
  21. 4 points
    I watched this video on wire wrapped handles on "That Works" youtube channel, and the jig he uses is so brilliantly simple, I just had to make one myself. I've done wire wrapped handles before, but this jig, and the toothpick trick he uses makes it SO much easier.The brilliant thing with this jig is the little ratchet wrench you mount on it which only lets the handle turn one way, so you can keep tension on the wires easily. Here is my first attempt at using the jig. I used 0.5 mm steel wire, and 0.6 mm copper wire.
  22. 4 points
    Hey all, just finished up this one and wanted to share. I don't do many hollow grinds but tend to love the look, and with my first time trying domed pins, I don't think it turned out half bad! Now to the next project... a folder. Thanks for looking!
  23. 4 points
    Just finished these today. Made a couple of billets recently and needed to see what they looked like!Both handles inspired by William Scagel, obviously not faithfully but in spirit anyway! 1) Blade 4" 160 layer random damascus of 1084/15N20/W1 forged to shape and hardened to RC60.Bronze guard, handle red G10, bronze, stainless, leather spacers and antler fork.2) Blade 4 1/4" 160 layer inverted random damascus of 1084/15N20/W1 also forged to shape and at RC60.Stainless guard, handle black G10, copper, stainless, leather spacers and antler crown.
  24. 4 points
    Hello Everyone! First I'd like to apologize as I have not been active on this forum in quite some time; I spent the last 6 years finishing my degree in jewelry/metalsmithing, working as a goldsmith, then moving to the Midwest to get my MFA in metalsmithing, with the last few years dedicated to sculptural work and teaching. However, now that the world is effectively shut down, I've been finishing up old projects that have been languishing in my tool box; this old seax blade being one of them. The seax itself is nothing special, I forged the blade maybe 5 or 6 years ago and if I can recall I'm pretty sure that its 1095. I've tried to hilt it several times over the years, but nothing ever felt quite right. I think I can finally call it done with this simple hilt. Specs are: Blade- 1095 Hilt- Bronze, Briar, Maple, Oak Total Length: 13.5″ (34.3 cm) Blade Length: 8.375″ (21.27 cm) Hilt Length: 5.125″ (13 cm) Blade Width at Bolster: 3/16″ (4.8 mm) Also, I'm terribly sorry for the cheesy sheepskin photograph; I'm currently in between places right now and its the only thing I have that's somewhat uniform in color
  25. 4 points
    A pic of the stock I am doing at the moment just wetted to raise the grain which was sanded at 350, repeated twice at 600 and the second pic with the second coat of sanded in alkanet oil. Grain is filled so now the real finishing can be started with all the preporatry work is done.
  26. 4 points
    Canadian military-grade nuclear mustard! Available only to Quebecois...
  27. 3 points
    Hi Guys, I was sitting on my back deck today and was having a creative conflict. I know I have a Seax sheath to finish and was doing some research to get inspiration for that but instead I became distracted with some very cool examples of the smaller broken back Seax and decided to fire the forge. I started with a sandwich of 1075, 15n20 and 1075 and forge welded it together. I then cut grooves in that billet with my bur grinder and did the same on an old post drill shaft. Then I cut a thin strip of 15n20 and did the most dodgy stack ever created as you can clearly see. Anyhow despite that I set the welds and forged out the blade. (Blade is about 5 inches) complete with messy borax scale. More to come as time permits.
  28. 3 points
    Hello.. Just got this one finished..this would of gone to RPFS out in California.. but since that is not running this year..on the website it goes... 22" long blade..hugs and kisses pattern in 1095, L-6 and some meteoric iron with full length fuller each side...forged and file worked phosphor bronze mounts and some of that bowling ball material that I happened to stumble upon a while back that I fluted for the grip.. Sheath is mounted in phosphor bronze and has a gem quality carnelian inset on the throat.. At least I am starting to get caught up on some things I got behind on thanks to this idiotic shutdown..but I am still dead for 2020 as far as shows go.. Sigh.. Hope the photos work.. JPH
  29. 3 points
    First a little clay.. then heat treat. Went without incident. Into the oven at 400 for a bit and then I’ll see if I can’t finish it up tomorrow.
  30. 3 points
    I'm pretty sure that's a Jersey pattern Emerson & Steven's Co. Axe. Here is a video on how they were made.
  31. 3 points
    DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers. DROP SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting on fire various flammable objects in your shop. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. ADJUSTABLE WRENCH: aka "Another hammer", aka "the Swedish Nut Lathe", aka "Crescent Wrench". Commonly used as a one size fits all wrench, usually results in rounding off nut heads before the use of pliers. Will randomly adjust size between bolts, resulting in busted buckles, curse words, and multiple threats to any inanimate objects within the immediate vicinity. This is a mutation of a column written by Peter Egan and published in Road and Track back in 1996. http://www.dinosaursandrobots.com/…/tools-explained-by-do-i… )
  32. 3 points
    All that's left of the final assembly is to put in the pins that hold the spring in place and hold the scales on. I make those pins the same way as before, but try for a bit larger head. I also have to taper the ends generously because the spring holes won't line up with the scale holes due to the pre-load on the spring. The taper helps push the spring into the loaded position, but you have to be careful because the nickel silver is so soft that it is easy to bend the pin. Here is what it looks like now. All I have to do is file down the pivot pin so that it is flush with the bolsters, and then do the final polishing of the bolsters, and any scuffed up areas.
  33. 3 points
    Got this blade tempered, final ground and etched yesterday. It's a crushed W's billet that I laddered and then drew out widthwise. My friends and family have requested that I dub the pattern "Reaper Damascus". Materials are 1080 and 15N20; I'll be putting black paper micarta scales on the handle today.
  34. 3 points
    Phones going really slowly.. but I think this is the rest of the pics.. thanks for looking! love to hear what you think! -Justin
  35. 3 points
    Well I have had some great success and learned some lessons with this. I am very happy and not so happy With this blade. Good thing is I know exactly where I went wrong and what to do next time. Pros - I am happy with the blade geometry. The welds were spot on. I got a cracker heat treat. One side of the blade pattern was exactly what I was hoping for. Cons - The other side of the blade pattern is not exactly what I was hoping for. Where I went wrong - I chose to do a san mai stack for the lower part of this blade but even though I forged it to the blade geometry I was after I did not take into account the thin layers of 1075 sandwiching the 15n20 were not forged even and when it came to final grind I lost the contrast I was after due to the uneven distribution of my san mai layers. If I was doing this again instead of 3 layers I would have gone for 12 or more or stuck with a solid bar of 1075 instead of the same mai. Anyhow I have learnt heaps from this which is what it’s all about and hopefully it may also be of help for someone else. Now....All I have to do is make a kick arse handle to hopefully redeem myself
  36. 3 points
    Essentially yes Brian but a rough dodgy way of going about it. My aim here was more to get a wavy line through the blade rather than a tooth pattern hence the wavy grooves and 15n20 between. If I was going to do a wolf tooth I would take more care in cutting and matching up the teeth bringing them to points rather than curves. I would also make more contrast in the steels like a twist or multi layer bar etc and I would not put the layer in between. I have a plan for a toothy blade in my head. Anyhow quench/ heat treat went well and I got a bit of a glimpse of the worm in the weld. Now to go through the grits and etch.
  37. 3 points
    Thanks Gary, good luck with your project. Did a rough grind before heat treat tonight. Boy an overnight soak in vinegar and a new belt makes such a difference.
  38. 3 points
    Thanks Brian and Alan I applied two coats of alcool diluted Fiebings brown leather die with sanding in between. Then a first coat of TruOil. Now I think it looks very much like light maple syrup. On a side note, this is the first time I completely finish a handle before it's glued on the tang.
  39. 3 points
  40. 3 points
  41. 3 points
    Another round of filing on that frame vine work. I never know how thin to take this pattern. I have done it really thin, and I have left it more like this. It still needs a little work on the second side anyway. What do you guys think?
  42. 3 points
    I narrowed the guard to better match the ricasso.
  43. 3 points
    This was supposed to be a knife, but my wife interrupted me with a request for a napkin holder. She doesn't ask for much, so I went ahead and did it...
  44. 3 points
    Dudgeon is an English word, though possibly from a Scots or Welsh root, for box wood root, which in the medieval period was the only native wood which it was legal to stain black to mimic ebony. The word became synonymous with this style of dagger. In Scots we still say that someone is 'up to high dudgeon', meaning in a killing mood, which comes from the dagger form.
  45. 3 points
    You sir, have a problem. A terrible, terrible sickness. May you never find the cure.
  46. 3 points
    IT'S A LIVE !! I finally got the kiln fired up 100 kg of charcoal on first run a lot of charred but not completes (took 12 hours to heat up and i was impatient), but for the next run I installed a Now for the fun part : The modding and optimization. I just ordered 2" k aowool as insulation for the entire kiln ^^ it's alredy outperforming my old design in the test phase ! Bonus : used some refractory cement to seal the doors, turns out the clay under my old retorts is far better at plugging leaks cheap solution. Now I just need the company supplying the insulation gets it home for next week -.- that's a looot of waiting, but I'll just do another run with the retort in the mean time
  47. 3 points
    I've been working on a highland dirk for the past couple of weeks of lockdown. 13" blade of antique wrought iron with silver steel edge and spine, steel fittings with copper trim, and a maple handle which I've started carving: today I also started a kitchen knife commission and a wee puukko, and I'm meant to be finishing a dudgeon dagger, but it's stressing me out...
  48. 3 points
    This one has been on the back burner for a while but I got a part of the handle fittings roughed out. I got the guard forged but forgot to snap a pic of it before I started annealing it. I'll slot it for the tang and drill for the pommel nut before shaping into a "D". (the two small pieces on the right will be the overlaid escutcheons)
  49. 3 points
    was up about 4.30 this morning (not uncommon for me) so decided to do something productive and made some lunch rolls. 3 1/2 lb flour plus a half cups each of wheat and oat bran with 8 tables spoons of milk powder. A big serving spoon of blackstrap molasses and another of malt to activate the 4 teaspoons of yeast in 24 oz of warm water, and when it is ready add 8 table spoons of best olive oil to the mix. When they were all under control I got a pot of soup on. I had cooked down 4 sheep shanks yesterday as a base so it was adding the rest this morning and have it simmering away and when done will make about 15 liters so will get it into containers for the freezer. Makes a nice easy evening meal for Sabbath day so Lyne dose not have to cook.
  50. 3 points
    There you go! Some hand sanding required and a forced patina after.
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