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  1. Hi. I just finished my latest project. It is a replica of an early medieval (Viking Age) spearhead. It is a reconstruction of the find from Ciepłe (Poland). It is completely made of bloomery iron. I have used 3 kinds of materials: soft low carbon iron smelted from hematite ore, high carbon steel I made in Aristotle furnace, and high phosphorus low carbon iron smelted from bog ore. The socket is a wrap and welded. The pattern-welded twist bars are welded on both sides of the spear core. To weld twist pattern billets I used high carbon steel and P-iron, cutting edge is steel, socket and core is
    24 points
  2. “Far over the misty mountains cold, To dungeons deep and caverns old, We must away, Ere break of day, To claim our long forgotten Gold the latest Seax by Myself and Petr Florianek... My blade but Petr has surpassed himself with the blade carving , handle and sheath ...My fave to date. hope you like it. [
    17 points
  3. Hi Guys It's been an age since I've posted on here. I hope everyone one is well and navigating these very strange times that we find ourselves in at the moment. This is the latest Bowie to exit the shop and I hope you enjoy looking over her. All comments and critique always welcome. All the best Steve The blade for this D-guard Bowie is made from W-1 high carbon tool steel. The blade is 283mm long, 44mm wide and just over 5mm thick on the spine which has vine file work along its edge. There's a clay quenched temper line along its cutting edge and
    16 points
  4. Hey everyone! I'm working on a kind of general Viking woman's knife. I drew inspiration from a bunch of different types of seaxes and knives, and distilled it into what you'll see here! It's maybe not quite a seax, but I don't think it's just a knife either. It's being made for a friend of mine in Iceland who gifted me some really amazing material when I was over there last year. She asked for 'a simple viking woman's knife' and I think I may have missed the mark on the 'simple' part, but it is what it is! I'll attach a bunch of photos like usual and maybe some reference I used fo
    16 points
  5. . Hello how are you! I haven't posted any work for a long time, but we finished several commissions during the time of the pandemic. little by little I will upload material to share! Medusa is a typical one-handed sword from the early Renaissance, with a type XV blade of the Oakeshott classification, very popular in the middle and late fourteenth century, its use reaching the fifteenth century. Its guard has spatulate beds, openwork with a Gothic trefoil, an ornamental shape composed of the outline of three superimposed rings, very popular at the time, used in Gothic tracery, heraldry, il
    16 points
  6. Hello! I apologize profusely for the novel that is about to come, I promise I won't be offended if you skip to the pictures I recently graduated from Hampshire College in Massachusetts. Instead of Freshman, Sophomore, etc, students are divided into Division I, II, and III. The first year you take a broad set of unrelated classes, and throughout your middle two years you hone in on something interesting you want to study. Your last year, Division III, is spent working on a thesis project that should be the culmination of the last three years of work and study, producing s
    16 points
  7. Howdy.. Well it has been an interesting last bit...took a bit of maneuvering , wheeling/dealing and being creative to stay afloat with minimal (if any) studio time but now that things have turned around and orders are once again coming in..I am BACK!! I did get some serious writing done on book IV as well as figure out how to get a bigger chuck of that wavy feather pattern I have been worklng on..here is the reult of one blade for the cover photo of book IV.. I am keeping this one for myself. 31" blade, double fullers, file worked spine..(wore out 3 files do
    15 points
  8. Hello! this is The Moon's Daughter, a type XVIII b sword that we started in the May Sword Reflections class of Tannery Pond with Zack Jonas and Peter Jonnhson. finally we finished it. is a pattern welded sword. (1095/1070) the thickness at the cross is 6 mm and the width is 47 mm. The length of the blade is 94 cm and it is 118 in total length. is built following the guidelines dictated by Peter J for the class, many thanks to PJ, ZJ and the classmates for such beautiful days
    15 points
  9. Hi everyone, I just finished a tanto I had been working on for the last 3 weeks . The blade is W2, uchi-sori with a 7 1/2" nagasa, and the fittings are copper with shibuichi inlays. Here are the photos of the build: Profiling: Hardening: Polished: Now for the part that's really time consuming, the fittings: For this blade, I decided on a ginkgo leaf theme, a symbol of pe
    14 points
  10. I have been working on the idea of this for a while...patternwelded inlay(ish) ...this is patternweld with sterling silver spacers and inlay/
    14 points
  11. This is lhe latest colaberation knife made by myself and Petr Florianek. Inspired by saxon swords the 11" blade and handle are made by me and the carving and Sterling silver handle ornamentation is by Petr. going for the bling bling! Hope you like it.
    14 points
  12. Forging the Blade The raw material for this blade spent most of the last century on a former homestead. A large portion of the steel was used for another blade, this was the piece cut from half of the left side. Slowly drying the clay for yaki-ire over the embers in the charcoal forge. After yaki-ire, an #80 grit Sun Tiger stone reveals the approximate hamon as the geometry is set. Habaki Habaki forged to shape in preparation for silver soldering in the charcoal forge. The habaki is textured with files and patinated using a blend of copper salts sim
    14 points
  13. I'm still alive... and still hammering them out. Although, more so for pleasure than for business these days. Much more enjoyable that way for me! Here's a little hunter that I finished up that's going to a good home. Another knife which I wish I could have kept. Thanks for looking folks and hope all are doing well.
    13 points
  14. Finished this knife after 3 years ....forged the blade in 2018. Steel is 15n20, UHB 20 and a slice of O2 ....edge is 1.2419. Handle is G10, Micarta and amboina.
    13 points
  15. 1080 / 15n20 Damascus by maker with Turkish Walnut handle and stainless fittings .
    13 points
  16. hi everyone! Alright, so I'm spending somewhat of an eternity working on the sheath of this thing - so I've decided to post at least half of the thing... the knife itself. Let me present - Draumr Gripnir - the "Dream Grip" - with some unintended fingermarks and all! Blade in two bars of folded and twisted railroad steel, with a third bar (edge) of 15n20 and ferrier's rasps. Handle i copper, brass, camel bone and vulcanized fiber. The runes engraved in the brass reads "keep your blade sharp, but your mind sharper". The nut on the
    13 points
  17. Blade: 1080 & 15N20 Handle: cocobolo Fittings: 416
    13 points
  18. All: It's been about two years since the death of my father. He died unexpectedly and suddenly. Him and I were working on our jointly owned boat in Cordova, Ak and he got a stomach ache. A few days later he was diagnosed with stage 4 Pancreatic Cancer. Ten days later he died. We had a few days to say goodbye. The very last beer I shared with my Dad was sitting on the flying bridge of his Boat in what was going to be his retirement home in Florida. I asked him what he wanted done at his funeral. In my Dad's characteristic humor he said he wanted me to build a Viking shi
    13 points
  19. I got the photo proof back yesterday from Whetstone studio of my full set. Some of these you have likely seen already. These are the five that were in the judging room
    12 points
  20. Hey everyone! Here's a project I'm nearly finished with! I started messing around with some ideas for a small wolf tooth fire striker. This is the prototype, with teeth about the same size as the ring I made a while ago. Made from iron and folded steel. Next one will be in my own home made materials. IMG_0745.MOV Around the time I finished it up I got a mail call! An original wolf tooth spear that I cleaned and etched and sealed. I started to reverse engineer the construction of the spear based on other examples I had seen and
    12 points
  21. Hi everyone. When I was a teen there was an illustration in a Dungeons and Dragons book of a sword that was shooting a lightening bolt, or energy, or something. The drawing showed the sword encased in wavy, crackling energy or magic or something. Here is my attempt to capture that feeling in pattern weld. Minor inclusion near the base of the blade, but . . . meh . . . still looks okay. This is an Oakeshott XII blade, copied pretty exactly from Peter Johnsson's design. I haven't come up with a hilting plan for it yet. Probably bronze fittings and carved black
    12 points
  22. Hey everyone! I want to acknowledge right away that what I'm doing here is questionable and very much non-traditional. In truth, I'm not quite ready for the challenge of a traditional blade made in a traditional way, but I hope to get there someday. This project aims at taking what I learned from a wakizashi I made last year and attempting to 1) not make the same mistakes again (only new ones are allowed!), 2) improve on the technique I've been learning and developing for this particular style of blade, while 3) also aiming for a greater challenge. This katana's constru
    12 points
  23. This one was ordered by a friend's mother as a 40th birthday present for him. He's an ex recce sniper and a wilderness guide, so I inlayed some spent .308 brass in the handle (I wanted to use .337, but I don't shoot long guns, and could only buy them by the 100, which would have cost about as much as the knife. But .308 is the classic British Military sniper round, and Highland stalking round, so it's all good...) and used .22 and .22 magnum for the lanyard hole liner. 1095 blade, clay hardened with fileworked tang. Red deer antler scales, with copper pins. The lanyard is made of a fairly stil
    12 points
  24. I recently finished something that would be nice to show here. I actually started this knife in june last year, this is the longest I've ever worked on anything. I actually started as a relaxing blade to make for myself between commission work, but it fought me every step of the way, and turned out to be super difficult to make the way I envisioned. As I was finally making some good progress I decided to move out of my parents house and go live on my own, it is super exciting but left me with little time to work on knives. Sadly I can't forge at my own place,
    12 points
  25. The blade here was made from six bars of irregular layers of 1080 & 15N20. The two in the center were twisted less(both left & right handed) than the top & bottom pairs, stacked and then welded like a Merovingian or Turkish pattern. I think that it gave it a very distinct and unique pattern. The handle scales are mastodon with fittings of 416 & some diagonally coin edged nickel silver with a guard forged from a bar of A36 & hot blued in 500 degree salts.
    12 points
  26. A friend called me and said he had an anvil for me. I am so very grateful but I do wish it was just a bit bigger!
    12 points
  27. Howdy... Been slowly trying to recover from all this covid infringements on my supplies and materials... so decided to get my mind cleared of all the stuff that has happened ion 2020...Wanted to make a Bowie and well..it didn't turn out quite the way I intended.. This is what happens when my feeble old mind starts to wander off... 19" recurved blade, in a feather pattern, welded in 1070 and L-6 with some meteoric iron thrown in just because I can.. Twin fullers (which are not all that much fun to forge in on a recurve..I tell ya that..) Forged phosphor bronze mounts
    12 points
  28. Copy of Chinese Qianlong period sabre. Blade is from hand smelted titano-magnetite. Japanese construction and hamon with Sankrit and Manchurian script carving. Scabbard is sectional veneer overlay in three woods with lacquer finish. Mounts are gold plated brass, hand pierced and carved. Hilt is New Zealand nephrite jade. Sole authorship work. Wouldn't make another one ;-) (Don't laugh at the stand. It's just my workshop, jury-rigged go-to )
    12 points
  29. I decided to forge the longest early-medieval spearhead ever found in Poland. Its original find was found in the Lednica lake in 1961. It has a octagonal socket. The blade is pattern-welded (four twist bars on each side). To forge it I used 19 cent. wrought iron and steel. It took 6 full day work days and. I used 120 kg of coke. here you can find complete cataloque of spears from Lednica lake: http://studialednickie.pl/wiadomosci/biblioteka-studiow-lednickich/66096ae1c4bcf6d985f3fd81714fdd9a.pdf
    12 points
  30. My latest Jarn Hond single edged viking sword....Hope you like it. I have been playing with replicating inlay (which i do not have the skill or patients for) with patternweld which I guess I do!
    12 points
  31. WARNING!! There may be just a tiny bit of bragging in this post. My 17yo son just came out to the shop and showed me his SAT scores. 1530 out of 1600! Puts him in the 99th percentile of all SAT takers! After almost losing him several times last year (Teenage depression is no joke. My wife and I both agree that 2020 has been a cakewalk compared to the hell we went through in 2019). To see him apply himself and come through it like this has been amazing. His experiences are driving him to go to school and become a psychiatrist so that he can help people deal with their issues
    12 points
  32. First go at one if these, just too cool not to try. had some issues that were mostly as a result of rushing or not paying attention but I’m happy with it over all. Would like to make another with some twists and stuff. Inlay on the socket would be cool too but I only have so much patience! wrought socket and core, wrought and mild teeth, en42j and 15N20 edge.
    12 points
  33. It only took 5-6 years. The blade is a two-core interrupted twist. The handle is sea cow bone, the fittings are about 2lbs of silver with niello inlay, and there are two opals set into the sheath, which is the same from front to back. The stand is black walnut.
    12 points
  34. Hi all! After a long time I signed there because I made new knife which is available. It is small knife overall lenght is 22,5 cm, blade 10 cm and handle 12,5. Welded blade is forged from old, broken springs of agriculture machine and from the bearings. These springs I found unders old oaks on Kovalovec meadows. Guard is from patinated bronze and on handle is small patch of cow bone, which I found on the way to the Skalica hills. Last part I bought from my friend and it is Palisander Honduras burl wood. Hand sewn scandinavian type sheath with leather inserts in the b
    12 points
  35. Here's my latest... a custom order that when I drew options for the client, I labelled "insane" as it was an exercise more than anything in taking lines to an extreme. I was a little taken aback when he chose the drawing to proceed with. It has a 15" blade, is 20-3/4" in overall length, and the blade is 2.25" max width at the harpoon apex. It features a 9 bar pattern-weld blade, in turkish/serpents composite with explosion pattern bars for the clip and dropped edge. Completing the package are a 954 aluminum bronze guard, sculpted grenadilla handle, and 954 bronze nut for the through ta
    12 points
  36. Finished this commissioned piece the other day. Blade 11" long feather pattern of 1084/15N20. Guard made of railroad spike, 15N20 and couple end pieces of damascus. Handle stabilized redwood with centre core of mahogany that had some personal meaning for the customer. Was a challenge in may ways for me! Clint
    11 points
  37. When I first got interested in mustard patinas, I asked around how it was done and the answer I got was "you put mustard on the blade". While I understand it meant there was no wrong ways to do it, I was hoping for a bit more details . Now that I've done a few patinas and had A LOT of requests on how I get this stonewashed look, I'm going to give you the details in this short tutorial. This bladesport'ish blade was not intended to have a patina but it was the only one I had around that's large enough for a good demo. In case you wondered, it is 80CrV2 steel. This patina will work p
    11 points
  38. To All, I haven’t and usually don’t post stuff, seldom do WIP photos or videos but everyone else is. So I need to get out of my shell I guess. Since last spring, I’ve made improvements to my tools, (what little I have), made some fortunate knife sales to generate cash for supplies and of course make knives. This Puukko is a heftier version of what I like to do…….. more of a hunting knife than one for EDC. With a rhomboid blade, no tang & with the guard 1/2” thick, it’s really difficult to drill out a hole to insert the tang and maintain a flush, clean finish blade to guard. So
    11 points
  39. Still futzing with this one that I've been working on for the past few days as a distraction from the basket hilt that's breaking me (hopefully more on that front soon...). 1095 blade, hammered copper habaki, brass seppas, bog oak fuchi and kashira, stained and lacquered poplar burl tsuka, buffalo horn mekugi, stained elm saya sealed with shellac. Still got to play with the polish a bit and maybe make some menuki. And I still need to buy a new camera, but my car's in the shop, and it'll be another week before I find out how poor I am... let me know what yo
    11 points
  40. Well the blade part is finished. A lot of firsts for me but that is what its all about. I will make a scabbard for this one next. Anyhow I decided to take the above words of Bjorn into account and while I was originally thinking of some elaborate decorations as the build progressed the blade spoke and I decided to keep it plain. The story could have possibly unfolded like this...... once upon a time in a land far far away.... There lived a Hobbit. He was an uncommonly adventurous type and on one of his mushroom gathering excursions to the farthes
    11 points
  41. Finished another folder. Little bitty bugger, 2.5" / 63mm closed, 4.5" / 112mm open. O-1, brass liners, nickel silver bolsters and pins, ebony scales. Still needs an edge and some cleanup, but it's assembled.
    11 points
  42. I've been working on a pipe tomahawk head and finished up the filing on Sunday. After taking the last few strokes with a 3" needle file, and seeing the 16" mill bastard next to it, I thought it would be of interest to some to see the results of drawfiling the way I do, the end result, and every single file I used on the project. First, drawfiling. For hawk heads, there's really not a good way to finish them totally on the grinder because of all the odd curves and stepped lines. Well, maybe if I had a small wheel attachment, but not as I am currently set up. I forge to shape, remove th
    11 points
  43. Hello everyone, The last month or so I have been working on a Damascus hunting knife with a stabilized beech handle. Since I am taking pictures for my Instagram account anyway, I figured it would be nice to post this on the ‘’old fashioned’’ forums as well. For this hunting knife I am going for a more traditional design than I would normally do, this is a ‘’simple’’ drop point hunter with a guard and hopefully a takedown handle. On this knife I really want to focus on my fit and finish, normally one of my weaker points in knifemaking. As I normally make historic
    11 points
  44. Just finished this up. I'll try and get proper pics and say more about it at the weekend, but It's 1075+Cr, bogoak, steel, copper and silver: let me know what you think...
    11 points
  45. Finished this just this afternoon. Haven't put an edge on it yet, but just couldn't wait to show it off! Time for critiques.
    11 points
  46. 11 points
  47. As the title suggests, here is a variation on a theme. People like what they like, and it seems I have a few knives that people really like. That's fine, I enjoy making them, and I still exercise a little bit of creativity in each one. Although I totally forgot to put my makers mark on this knife, which pisses me off, but you know, it could be worse. It's really not hard to tell it is something I made... Anyhow, it is made from Aldo's 1075, which I really dig. Beaten copper, and a gorgeous piece of Desert Ironwood to finish it off. I wish pictures could do the wood justice. It glow
    11 points
  48. This was a very pleasant commission to work on for me. I could practice a little more of inlaying and the results got better than i could anticipate, even if I have much to evolve in this art. The blade was mostly done by stock removal, but the tip and the tang were forged prior to the grinding. It was made using 1070 steel. The hilt is of a variation of Petersen's type L and it's components are made in mild steel and the inlays are nickel silver. The twisted wires are also nickel silver. It was then oil coated and lightly heated to make it look darker, so the contrast with the coope
    11 points
  49. Sorry man. Locking this thread. This ain't a politics forum. It's a forum for makers who meet on the accorded neutral ground of creativity and craftsmanship. We leave our politics and flame wars at the door on the way in. Our founder, Don Fogg, set this tone from the beginning and we maintain that position. Cheers, Dave
    11 points
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