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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/25/2021 in all areas

  1. Hi everyone, I just finished a tanto I had been working on for the last 3 weeks . The blade is W2, uchi-sori with a 7 1/2" nagasa, and the fittings are copper with shibuichi inlays. Here are the photos of the build: Profiling: Hardening: Polished: Now for the part that's really time consuming, the fittings: For this blade, I decided on a ginkgo leaf theme, a symbol of pe
    14 points
  2. I got the photo proof back yesterday from Whetstone studio of my full set. Some of these you have likely seen already. These are the five that were in the judging room
    12 points
  3. Hi guys, I recently posted a preview of a blade I have been working on, and I have now finally been able to finish the complete knife - sheath not included... thought I'd give a bit of a new preview of the whole thing. All inlay in both handle, bolster and blade are 24 karat gold wire, 0,7mm in thickness. Bolster is in meteorite iron - which is nerve wrecking to work with when doing inlay. Some areas are more fragile than others, and if you look closely at the "R" - you'll see the outline of a
    11 points
  4. Hi Guys, I have not been forging for a bit as I have been concentrating on my Wildlife Photography but I needed an axe for camp fires so I forged this up yesterday and handled it today. Farriers Rasp and saw bit. Hope you guys are all safe. Rob
    9 points
  5. Finished this one up today. It has a 3 1/8" blade and a 4 1/4" handle. The steel is 1080 and the handle material is brass, bighorn sheep, and amboyna burl. This is probably one of the cleanest EDCs I've done yet. I used alignment pins and did most of the handle shaping off the blade, and the handle actually came out looking like I wanted it to. Thanks for looking. Faye,
    7 points
  6. Ameribrade 2x72 has arrived Tool arms get here soon. This will be a game changer for sure
    6 points
  7. Thanks Alex! Though today that may not be the case because it’s polishing time! This is the blade after about an hour on a 120 grit Sun Tiger stone. I’m hoping this was the longest stage of polishing because I had to even out the dips from filing and warps from hardening as well as thin down the edge. Not sure exactly how high I’ll take this on stones, but I have plans for the final polishing step. Next up is 220, then starting the handle!
    6 points
  8. Big afternoon with all the handles on and in the clamps under the lights for the night. There is from the left canvas micarta, giraffe bone, rosewood, spalted maple burl, desert ironwood hickory burl, amboyna, koa, double dyed box elder, and two of hickory burl
    5 points
  9. 5 points
  10. I'm sorta back in business! This morning I moved my grinder and stuff from my shed to my new workplace. Had to rewire the VFD and last time I dismantled it I forgot to mark the wires . Took a good 30 minutes just to sort it out and make sure it doesn't blow up. Feels got to finally be back at it. Now I need some projects!
    3 points
  11. We can always assume the sugar is important since it will provide a reducing atmosphere and coat the surfaces with carbon, both things that will help with a forge weld. I worked at a foundry once that would though a handful of sugar packets on top of the poured investment molds before putting a 55 gallon drum over it. The reducing atmosphere prevented pin-hole defects. I asked "why sugar packets?" and was told that they were cheap, easy, and readily available. Totally not related story, but it cracks me up every time I think about it. When I was fresh out of coll
    3 points
  12. This project has been a ton of fun, I'm glad some other people find it interesting as well! I will be away from the shop for three weeks starting tomorrow, but I got in one last bit of work on this. There's some left to do, but I ought to be able to wrap it up before the deadline. The sheath insert will be made from a piece of grey birch knocked down this spring by snow and wind. This hatchet I made a a while ago ended up a little thin in the bit, but it works pretty well for carving! The insert is made without a split using a knife and rip saw. @jake pogre
    3 points
  13. Knife in pre-HT grind window etch. Made from bar 2 posts up.
    3 points
  14. This is the first mono-steel Bowie that I've made in a while: Blade: W1 Handle: Stabilizing giraffe bone Fittings: 416
    3 points
  15. If you ever want to appreciate sand paper, I highly recommend doing a burl handle without it. This was fun, but definitely a challenge. Here are the tools I used for handle shaping. The knife is has an asymmetric grind and is long enough to hold with two hands, so I used it like a drawknife for a good bit of the shaping. In the middle is my scraper/burnisher for kinko work, which proved useful for sand paperless finish. I wrapped up the stone finishing with 300 then 800 grit water stones going lengthwise. I then switched to my oilstones to add the secondary
    3 points
  16. Hi all, yesterday i grind the bevel edge. The seax its ready for hardening. I make it this evening. Ruggero
    3 points
  17. Another good while of polishing and the blade is up to 220 grit, ready for handle work to start. This is where the handle started: a grey birch stump I pulled out of the freezing mud late in the fall of 2018. Pretty sure it was blown down the preceding spring/winter because there was a decent amount of spalting and insect damage, the latter of which was tragic because it had some really gorgeous wood in it. Here is the piece I chose, it's a little grimy from storage and you can see some of the holes from grubs. I also boiled this before drying it which darke
    3 points
  18. Another puck of similar composition as the last bar made and set to the side to keep the momentum rolling. Perfect melt. Super undercooling. Due to extremely slow cooling, the structure solidified with the cementite moving from primary dendrites to GBC. The center, last to solidify probably did so in more of a jolt in comparison to the rest with the presence of dendrites. Should be a super, easy forging with the health of the ingot and composition. No graphite formation. Carbon looks to be around 1.6-1.7%.
    3 points
  19. Anndddd I was able draw all of the teeny, tiny spheroidized cementite into the bands and harden. Through hardened flawlessly, no warps. 64+RC.
    2 points
  20. By 2017, the gray had changed to white. Here’s something you don’t see every day. A pattern welded steel Kelso-Mills dagger.
    2 points
  21. Thanks, MacKinnon! I know just enough about Japanese stuff to get in major trouble talking about it.
    2 points
  22. I can't comment too much on dust collectors, there are definitely people here with a lot more knowledge on what works & doesn't work, but I can share what I did earlier this year. I have a small shop too, and it was annoying having grinding dust settling on everything. So I put together a simple water trap/dust collector connected to my shop vac that is surprisingly effective. A 4" to 5" duct adapter connects to 3" aluminum drier flex hose & into the top of a 4gal steel pail with latching lid. The flex hose is attached to a 3" pipe centered on the lid that exte
    2 points
  23. excuse me for a moment while I pick up my shattered jaw and any semblance of pride I had off the floor.... Wow...just WOW!
    2 points
  24. We lost power for several hours yesterday during the storm that dumped 6 inches of rain on us. So, I recoated the inside of the welding forge. This will take a few days to cure.
    2 points
  25. Here's the direction I am thinking of going
    2 points
  26. Update : the blower didnt survived, the gearbox busted and overheated and leaked oil in 10 minutes. So I bought better centrifugal blower, quite new (!), frankensteined it on, together with air valve, safety solenoid - which closes the gas supply if the blower is not running, switch etc. The blower is 850 W and should give 85 cfm on continuous run with about 150 mBars of overpressure. i hope its enough. My method of gluing the burner block into the manifold using refractory mortar seem to be working fine. The square handle can be pulled out and host variety of barstock holders. My welding i
    2 points
  27. I use the electric kiln for tempering and spheroidizing/annealing. The two make a good combination to get the various things done. You are right about decarb. I tested the edge of the sword, which I had draw filed after forging. The whole length of the edge was hard as glass. No decarb that I could notice, after three grain refinement cycles and a hardening cycle. Notice how uniform the color is. There is just a bit of decalescence or recalescence happening above the tip if you look. Just below the bold that holds the leg of the post vise to the arms.
    2 points
  28. Finally finished it last night.
    2 points
  29. Thank you Francis. Jim and Ford would be pleased with your progress. Maybe our paths will cross some day. Until then keep on making cool stuff!
    1 point
  30. Thank you Doug! There are definitely issues that I want to address with my next project by this feels like improvement. Not at all. The blade was quenched in Parks 50, which gave it its slight uchi sori. I had never used W2 before so I more or less followed John White's process as documented here The goop I use is thermo-loc, which I like because it doesn't really smell much at all and is really clean to handle, although it costs a bit more than traditional rosin/pitch. Thanks for asking. That's a journey I feel only just starte
    1 point
  31. Indeed it is! Go to this thread: Lots of good info there. Your block would be great in the Paul Lundquist anvil-vise combo thingy towards the end.
    1 point
  32. Shibuishi is an awful alloy for splitting seams. I'm not surprised you had some issues. One of the handy things about forming them in the round is that you can then work one edge over a standard ring mandrel to form a slight cone. When you shape this up it forms ' funbari', ( Stradle) , that is, the fuchi takes on some flaring at the seppa. It makes for a more subtle form than a simple parallel ferrule.
    1 point
  33. Very nice. Congrats. The dagger shows a hamon. What is the steel and is the hamon planned? I use a lot of W series and have never h/t'ed one without a hamon forming.
    1 point
  34. That will serve you well! It just takes a steady grinder, a steady hand (with a LOT of practice), and then if you need to tweak it go to drawfiling. I find that drawfiling is the easiest way to quickly crisp up a bevel that's a little wavy off the grinder. Of all these things, practice is what will get you there in the end. But there's nothing wrong with using a jig. It just limits what you can do on certain blade shapes and profiles.
    1 point
  35. Lol. I'll wear them if I'm doing light forging. The perfectly round scar I have on my left foot reminds me that they're not a good idea when doing anything with heavy amounts of scale though!
    1 point
  36. Wow, just wow... that is magnificent! Truly beautiful work.
    1 point
  37. You did good. Congratulations!
    1 point
  38. Those are really nice, Josh.
    1 point
  39. Thank you very much for those kind words Mr. Christenberry! We all draw inspiration from others, which is the great thing about the previously unimaginable access we now have to the world through the web. I think that for those of us who work in the creative genre - it has, and will continue to exponentially accelerate the development of new and unique styles. An example of this is my engraved handle frames. They are inspired by similarly framed Bowie knives that I've seen here on this forum and elsewhere, same goes for my sheaths - with a twist of my own of course.
    1 point
  40. Hmmm... Might not have hardened fully, OR you may have ground through the hard part. Do you know the manganese content? That's what governs depth of hardening in simple steels. Even so, it should have hardened around 1/16" deep from all surfaces. Maybe the shop gremlins snuck in and overtempered it while you weren't looking...
    1 point
  41. Oh yeah! Stable from 1450-1475. First project is soaking right now. Too bad it's some tooling for work and not a blade.
    1 point
  42. That's an awesome idea! I should definitely try that out, usually it's a blundering disaster trying to use the very not appropriately sized horn of the anvil and giving up before it really worked out. I wonder if the original sockets were just freehanded or if there are surviving examples of the mandrels that may have been used to do final shaping on the haft end. That little flare transition is great but is so easy to botch! Maybe it'd be possible to use a wooden one a few times? Wood is certainly cheaper and more portable than iron, but is it even necessary? I've made a few tubular handles f
    1 point
  43. Pretty much nothing to add that already hasn't been said. Quick question, what is the handle material? Doug
    1 point
  44. I've been finding ash on my car the last few mornings, and I've been wondering if it was coming from y'all. Keep your head down.
    1 point
  45. Made some progress on fittings and tsuka for a tanto:
    1 point
  46. Those of you that know me, know that I love making the historical style of knife which usually means large. Recently however I accepted a commission to design & build a knife for a customer who has a collection of knives that are <5" OAL. For this I decided on a boot knife of random pattern damascus with a full tang which I left proud for some rope roll filework. The scales are blackwood with 416 bolsters. Not my typical post but I occasionally enjoy making something different. Let me know what you think.
    1 point
  47. It was a little phantasmic watching that bearing heat up. Maybe I found my inspiration
    1 point
  48. “Far over the misty mountains cold, To dungeons deep and caverns old, We must away, Ere break of day, To claim our long forgotten Gold the latest Seax by Myself and Petr Florianek... My blade but Petr has surpassed himself with the blade carving , handle and sheath ...My fave to date. hope you like it. [
    1 point
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