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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/15/2020 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Recently finished this for a fella that laid out the specs and wanted it loosely based on other bowies I have made with a similar recurve. 10 inch blade forged from 80CRV2, coffee etch with mustard patina, stainless guard and buttcap, cocobollo handle. Thanks for looking, Clint
  2. 6 points
    Awesome! It would be cool if it was in the handle though........... Say you walk into a waffle house around 2am. The salty ol' waitress that didn't want to serve you throws your food down and says in a raspy new england accent "sorry sweetheart, we're out of syrup". So you narrow your eyes, spit a stream of tobacco juice on the floor, and rip a 7.5" knife from your hip without breaking eye contact, then remove a cap from the hilt dispensing maple syrup on your dried stack of bland food. Then you give it a lil twirl from the bucket hook and re-holster that bad boy in wild west fashion. Then, the Rob Halford doppelgangers tap your shoulder and.... Obviously just kidding btw
  3. 5 points
    This a copy of an original 19th century Dagger style Spontoon tomahawk I finished recently. Forged from rifle barrel and 1084 steel with pierce work, whitesmithed, and an aged patina. Handle is black Walnut with fire checkering, incise carving, paint and brass tacks. Raw hide quirt with wool and glass beads. Handle is 23in, head it 14in
  4. 5 points
    I got the guard sanded, polished & heat blued today. I stopped the bluing short of a dark blue. (determined by temperature) I like a little purple mixed in with the blue.
  5. 3 points
    Stage 2. You can now remove the spacer package as a complete unit and drill your pin holes. I typically use 1/16" pins, but 3/32" pins will also work. I cannot get 1/16" drill bits into my drill press, but my mini-mill can do 1/16" drill bits. It also drill much truer than my drill press. I generally drill through the back spacer to the front. I'll explain why later. Sometimes the superglue breaks during the drilling and you do not complete the holes. If this happens, put everything back on the tang and insert the pin or pins as far as you can, and glue them together again. I Take the spacer package apart and clean the glue off. First scraping with a razor blade and then lightly sanding with 320 grit. Now I put everything back on the tang with the pins in place. This makes sure that you have good pin alignment. Recheck the spacers for tight fit and get the spacers package superglued together again. Same as earlier. Now remove the pins and insert the tang into the handle material. As with the spacer package, this should be a tight flush fit that no light shows through. Glue the last spacer to the handle material at the joint. Now remove the blade and guard. The spacer package is held to the handle material and will work as a guide for you to drill the holes into the handle. These do not have to be too deep. I typically set them less than 1/8" into the handle.
  6. 3 points
    I changed horses today and made a start on a stock for an early (english) style stalking rifle for a friends rifle that came down from his father (recently deceased) It had a euro stock that didnt fit him so hence the new stock. A little different as he is in the US and sending the barreled action is not an option so parts from my 'spares' box come into play.
  7. 3 points
    Just a little bit of progress today. I have to tell you that the dagger has been taken off the bench for a long while. It will take more time than I have to devote to it right now. I did make another W2 blade. It will be an EDC take-down. I just realized that I failed to take any photos of the forging or HT process, which is a shame. Anyway, I drew down the tang and took that to 320 grit today. Then I took that big camp knife, fitted a new guard to it (third try is the charm I guess), Drilled the blind pins for the spacer package and got it indexed to the Amboyna block. (I drilled and fit the block to the tang Sunday) I also sanded the blade to 600 grit on the disc and it's ready for handle shaping.
  8. 3 points
    Not knife related, but camera related. I ground up a hotshoe cover protector for my camera. Couldn't find one that's cool on the internet so what do ya do? Make it yourself!
  9. 3 points
    Just so y’all don’t think I dropped from the face of the earth.... I’ve been working on the handle, sorry this is not much of a WIP, I am doing this in a completely different way than anything I have done before and every step is a series of experiments. Here’s a couple in progress shots. Josh, you will probably notice the tang changed quite a bit. I hope you don’t mind, I needed it to fit the curve of the handle. Also, you’ll notice it changed compared to my sketches up above. This is how it goes when you are using organic materials. The last picture is where I am at now. I have textured and sanded the first three parts (bolster, 1st piece of antler, and the first nickel-silver spacer). I shall press on.
  10. 3 points
    It would be cool if you had a hidden compartment for syrup...
  11. 2 points
    I am his nephew and was not able to get any of his work before he passed. I would love to own something made by him. If you, or anyone you know, has a piece they would be willing to part with I will pay generously for it and be forever grateful. Thank you!
  12. 2 points
    Well, Chris got me thinking about doing a little demo of installing blind alignment pins. That Kyle Royer video does a good job showing how you do it with a single spacer (and make it look lie it's multiple spacers), but I like using multiple spacers of different materials and thicknesses. I think it just looks better, and gives me more to embellish. So I came home and shot some pics of the process. As is well established in other posts, I am a 3-element kind of guy. I like using 3 spacers, and I like to match the length of the ricasso to the thickness of the spacer package. It looks "balanced" on opposite sides of the guard that way. The first step is to get the guard and spacers mounted on the tang. At least one of them should be a snug fit with very little or no movement. I generally press set the first spacer that goes against the guard. The other two are close or snug. None of them should be so tight that you have to hammer them off. Stack everything up and get it so the spacers are smooth flush and there are no gaps between them. Hold it up to a bright light and look through from side to side and top to bottom. No light should be visible between any of the fittings. By this point, you should have each of these pieces "tagged" to tell you which one goes on in what order and what orientation. I like to number the upper right corner of the back side (away from the blade) with an up arrow. Lin Rhea uses a center punch and puts a different number of dimples just above the tang slot. Whatever you do, tag each piece so you can always put them back on in the correct orientation. With a 3-piece spacer, it's not too difficult to figure it out without the tags, but when you do a 6 piece spacer...... With everything together, squeeze the package tight and appliy a couple of drops of superglue to the seams between the spacers. Do NOT glue the front spacer to the guard. The guard should be so tight that you need to whack the tang to remove it. This will instantly break the superglue bond.
  13. 2 points
    rolling rolling rolling shes in transit !
  14. 2 points
    Bed on the wood. The smoker allows for tight fitting. As my action may be fractionally different to my friends he may do the recoil lug with Devcon (liquid steel) when he sets his own action in it but in any case I wont be able to get the barrel channel perfect as I only have a tracing of his barrel so will have to do a slightly undersize channel which will require minor fitting so he may bed the chamber area. I have an old barrel that I may get turned to as close to his pattern as I can manage and fitted tight should be a close start for him.
  15. 2 points
    Since no one else has started a WIP I guess I will start things off. When Emiliano proposed this it really got my gears going, and this is what I came up with, its still just in design phase as I am getting my shop setup this weekend finally after nearly 2months of being down. I chose spring, and to go tanto with cherry blossom motif. The house I just sold had Cherry Trees in the back yard and every spring we had light pink petals everywhere for weeks. Its the one thing I will miss about that house besides the forest of Aspens we also had on the other side of the yard.
  16. 2 points
    Greetings All, This was my first attempt at a hamon, from January this year - a 1095 boner with stabilised Swamp Kauri scales. I was pretty happy with the outcome but will change things up a bit next time to hopefully get more activity.
  17. 2 points
    I forgot to take decent pics of these before they headed off this morning. The 7 1/2 in chef knives of 12C27 SS with oak handles and the box set (004) is a sample for my agent to show round various interested parties so will see what comes of them. The pic was taken before I had the inletted discs etched with the symbolic malon labe motif but it is the same one as on the box lid. Have also sent him portions of the colour options for the cloth lining.
  18. 2 points
    I ran out of junked antique barrels years ago, What I use is the material that most barrel makers make barrels from. DOM Pipe (drawn over mandrel) 1in OD, 1/2in ID in 4130 or similar alloy
  19. 2 points
    My take is a little different. I seldom make something simple like a hook or nail. I go for the WOW! effect. My most common demo piece is the wizard bottle opener* as shown in Mark Asperys book. I also interact with the crowd. With the talking and explaining the process, it takes about 45 minutes. And when I say explaining, I mean everything. I talk about the forge, the coal, the anvil, iron vs steel, how I made the tools, etc.... I've had people stay to watch a second time. I had one potter stay for 2 ½ hours. He didn't buy anything, said it was just so cool to watch. When I'm demonstrating, I'm there to SELL, but I've also made an agreement with everyone that comes to watch. And that agreement is that you will enjoy yourself and you will have gotten something by watching me. Which by doing so, increases my sales, so it's win/win for all of us :-) *Interestingly, the part that gets the biggest wow, is when I rub on the brass. If you're going with blades, then I would suggest story boards and several step by steps that folks can pick up and handle. Leaving last piece unsharpened of course :-) Because bladesmithing without forge welding is Booorrring. Look he's making a point on the end of the bar. Look he's making the point longer. Not real entertaining, unless they understand what's happening as it happens.
  20. 2 points
    Or maybe it's the other way round? I get those shakes too, from time to time. Well, it's always there a little bit, a thing called Essential Tremor. But if I'm tired while working it gets worse. Sometimes a hot water soak helps along with food and water.
  21. 2 points
    Like that Maple Burl and those knives, Garry. Shakes went away after I ate, Joel. Guess I just didn't eat enough today.
  22. 2 points
    It's still very rough but can now be called a d-guard.
  23. 2 points
    Well, this didn’t turn out to be a wip but they’re all done. By far, the most challenging project I’ve ever done. Looking at it now I’m (mostly) happy with the result, but there are things that I would go back and change if I had a time machine. So much learned and still only scratched the surface. The handles are cocobolo with copper spacers and pins. The steel is ~180-190 layers of 1084 and 15n20 with the last stack having thicker pieces of 1084 to get that bold layer.
  24. 1 point
    If you want to see an incredibly good use of blind pins holding the handle scales in place, check this out:
  25. 1 point
    Finished this just this afternoon. Haven't put an edge on it yet, but just couldn't wait to show it off! Time for critiques.
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    With accraglas and roughed-up pins you will not be getting any returns for handle failure.
  29. 1 point
    Cool design, Joël, I like the forward curving bucket hook guard. That's a really neat touch. And also a syrup flask may be one of the best ideas I've heard in a long time!
  30. 1 point
    +1 @Austin_Lyles I did some more work on my Tale of Six Blades WIP and a little forge welding on that twisted 4-way bar. After cutting it in half, I re-welded it back together with the insides out. What started as a roughly 10" long, 7/8" square bar, is now 14 " long and 5/16" thick.
  31. 1 point
    Gotta hate when that happens, but gotta respect you for maintaining standards!
  32. 1 point
    If your normalizing and grinding are good 3mm blades should not warp too badly, make sure your grinds are very even though, this helps alot when I do make kitchen knives. When a blade does warp, mostly long knives and swords, I clamp them between 2 pieces of angle iron immediately after quenching. I quench, count to five and clamp, this has straightened out pretty severe warps for me, as long as you are fast enough the blade shouldn´t break.
  33. 1 point
    Try one with your normal heat treat process and see what happens. I don't see much warp on the ~3" (76mm for the civilized world) pocket knife blades I have been making. Given some of the commercial knives that you like, I suspect you're interested in making some larger blades than that, but I'd still give it a go to see what happens. Initially I was grinding before heat treating. When doing this I might get a little warp at the tip, but I built a fixture to straighten those out in the tempering oven. I have since stopped grinding before heat treating. I've been hollow grinding them lately, and I can grind even a hardened "blade" from flat stock to finished in just a few minutes with a 120 grit belt and never get the blade to hot to hold in my bare hands.
  34. 1 point
    Heat treat take 3 is a success. I’ve been running the file along the entire edge constantly and I cannot detect any softness. If this Hamon touches the edge again I will most definitely whack it with a sledge hammer. And probably with great joy Let’s hope not though!!!
  35. 1 point
    Many of the late period ones are very brightly decorated. By the 1860s and the invention of aniline dyes and pigments, color became cheap and readily available for the first time in history. Yes, hard to tell because of black and white early photography - but then, just as now, people like color and showy things if they can have them
  36. 1 point
    Like Wayne said, let the castable refractory cure on top of the ceramic matting and you're good to go. I have castable refractory over my ceramic matting in my large forge (built out of a large mailbox) and I haven't had any problems. One other thing, the ridgidizer will compact the ceramic matting and decrease the insulating capacity. Doug
  37. 1 point
    Chris, I can indirectly identify with your situation in High School with Algebra. I met a man once who was an architectural engineer. He told me that when he was in college he needed to get a C in calculus to get his degree but he was pulling a D+. He went to his instructor and asked if there was any way that he could bring his grade up to a C and his teacher said that if he would promise never to build anything above the ground he'd give him a C. The man I was talking to made the promise and had kept it throughout his professional career. Doug
  38. 1 point
    I was wondering how you were going to finish the weave on the guard. Outstanding. Doug
  39. 1 point
    Why bother? Colloidal silica is pretty cheap, and if you don't want to buy it, you can probably go without it anyway.
  40. 1 point
    Ah, what you have there is work-hardening. Gotta have a sharp bit and use both lubricant (cutting fluid, spit, 3-in-1 oil, beeswax, etc. but not WD-40) and an even feed with just enough pressure to keep it cutting. Once it starts cutting, don't let up on the pressure for a second, and don't stop the cut. If it's not throwing chips you've hardening that spot. It happens towards the end of the hole because the thinner that stainless gets the more it flexes under the pressure of the bit, and that hardens it. Thus the light pressure, just enough to keep it cutting. Increasing the pressure only makes it worse, and then the only thing that works is single-flute solid carbide bits, and those are both expensive and very brittle.
  41. 1 point
    More than one professional maker has told me that brass cheapens a blade. That it's too common, and people see it as inexpensive. I don't agree, but some people do feel that way. Plus it is what's included with all those kit knives.
  42. 1 point
    Chris, I think for your second knife you should be very proud. Remember that when you ask for opinions that they are just that and everyone's will be different. The main things that are not subjective are blade geometry and handle comfort. If I were to really get picky I would find only small things to change on your next. One would be to be sparing with the use of brass. Many customers baulk at it. Some have already been brought up like pin placement and ricasso size. If in doubt use the golden mean which Alan mentioned---1 to 1.618. It makes things more pleasing to the eye. Also, one of the best tips that I can give you is to occasionally make a knife and test it to destruction so you know what your knives can and cannot do. All in all I'd say that you've got a winner. Nice job.
  43. 1 point
    This weekend was all about leather work and getting caught up on some past due projects
  44. 1 point
    I'm going to have to make a sheath and it is definitely feasible. Edit: I could fit something like this in the sheath.
  45. 1 point
    I think I see the issue. The hammer should do the work, you shouldn't have to. Snapping at the end of the stroke is okay for small hammers trying to do big work, but doing it with a decent-sized hammer of 2 - 3 lbs is asking for trouble. It should rebound back to at least 45 degrees with zero effort on your part as well. Watch someone like Peter Ross work. He's not going pedal to the metal, flat out. He's letting the hammer do the work, taking his time to plan the next blow, not rushing to keep the heat, and so on. Being Peter Ross, he makes it look easier than it is. I find I tend to hammer at around 120 beats per minute with 2 to 3-lb hammers, a little faster with lighter ones, a little to a lot slower with heavier ones as they get heavier. Also, I find "normal" handles are too big for my ordinary-sized hands and make me grip too hard. I shave down my handles until they feel good. I'm six feet tall, glove size 9 (large), and I don't have stubby fingers. I can span one full octave plus one key on a piano, in other words. Normal sized hands. And I take at least 1/4" off my handles thickness compared to factory handles. Makes a big difference to me, it may help you!
  46. 1 point
    Gary, I've withheld my comments because I had my doubts about this guard..................but I have to admit I like it. Think it's really going to look sharp when you get it finished. Sorry for doubting you on this one.............I should have known you wouldn't blow it!
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    Glad to. This an old blacksmith's technique called a wheat twist. It's made with two pair of round rods. With the ends welded together, one is twisted clockwise and the other counter-clockwise. It's important to regulate the heat and that is done best with an oxy/acet torch. (Remember that they will twist most where they are the hottest.) They are then paired side by side and welded together. I then welded some wrought iron to each end.
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    Hello: Here is the first sword I finished in 2020...The blade is 1070..the Hamon.. well, I dunno what to call it... Togari Gunome maybe?? finished with temple lion motif fittings from my art foundry guys in Taiwan..They do a great job..yes they do!! Much better than an old ham handed reprobate like I could do..... Black samegawa under that black and gold Chevron Tsuka-ito that I adore.. This is another proto for book IV which is coming along splendidly even if I do say so myself.. The siya is black lacquer that I dripped/ "flicked" Testors model airplane paint (metallic gold) on and then sealed with 6 coats of hard, clear lac.. I got the idea from a siya that one of my friends down here showed me a while back...turned out non too shabby but there is still room to improve on that...I do know I need to find a better price on that stuff..it is $$$...Hope the photos work out... Note: This Hamon didn't turn out like I wanted.. I was going for more of a crashing/breaking ocean wave/surf sort of thing but that isn't what happened.. Like I have said before...Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted to.. Happy 2020... JPH
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