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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/29/2020 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    Hi everyone, Though't I'd throw this one out there... Finished it during my "summer vacation" - effectively canceled thanks to Mr. Covid-19.... Long story short though. I've got a colleague of sorts who has helped me quite a bit throughout my career, and as he is leaving due to retirement, I thought he'd need something for his future free time in the wild. I give you "The Knuckle" - which incidentally is his nickname through many years in the industry. Blade is in a san-mai lamination with tool-steel for the core, and the folded steel is a mixture of tool-steel and jet-engine super-alloy which I've yet to identify. Handle is in buckeye burl, with copper bolster, brass and vulcanized fiber spacers. I decided to leave the blade a bit "raw" as it were, as this colleague of mine is both rough and sharp. I thought it fitting that the blade reflects his personality. Only thing that I am not satisfied with is the placement of the plaque on the sheath. It feels... I don't know... "out of place" to me... But.. lesson for the future I guess. A current knife I'm working on has a similar plaque in the middle of the sheath, although in that case I've made the sheath symmetrical even though the knife itself is single edged... Oh, and I decided to put my "logo" on the butt of the knife in this case. I doubt my etching would have penetrated the scales left on the body of the blade. The logo is basically my initials engraved into the wood and filled in with a copper-epoxy mixture. I am pretty happy with it. Anyhow, that's all for now. :) Chiao!
  2. 6 points
    Hi all, Here is a batch of lockdown projects just finished. These are all late medieval style eating knives and sheaths. The blades are all just very simple designs forged from 1075+cr, with as close to a flat grind as I could get. The handles are a mixture of apple, laburnum, yew and walnut, with brass pins and bolsters, and the sheaths are all inspired to some degree by originals from 'knives and scabbards', though not exact copies. Since making the blades I have acquired a lot more reference for this kind of knife, and in retrospect they are a little broad bladed so will be tweaking the proportions for the next lot. Also looks like the brass bolsters are more commonly bent sheet rather than the blocks I have used here. Obviously not the same calibre as the incredible pattern welded swords and so forth that are posted here, but it was a good noob learning curve making a batch of knives like this, and I hope you like them. Cheers! Alex
  3. 4 points
    Thanks! Well, the handle is carved. Need to buy leather next I guess.
  4. 4 points
    hello, One of the last finished projects. Copy of javelin head from Wielbark culture from Rozwadów, Poland. Hand forged from carbon steel with brass inlays. Wings are forge welded to the socket. Copy of spearhead from Wielbark culture from Zadowice, Poland. Hand forged from carbon steel with brass inlays. Thank you Jacek
  5. 4 points
    I have (mostly) finished the hammer. I say mostly because as I was taking these pictures, I noticed I have a bit of clean up to do on the bevels on the face, as well as one more coat of tung oil. Final pictures:
  6. 4 points
    But think of the fuel you'd save, the steel is already preheated
  7. 3 points
  8. 3 points
    The truth of this is it works well for preheating the quench oil. I just wheel the quench tank outside the door and leave it in the sun while the oven comes up to heat.
  9. 2 points
    I've been making sheaths for those knives I finished and figured I'd show a couple of them. These are simple pocket sheaths. I use the same template to cut the leather and just adjust the length/width as needed for the knife. There's a simple belt loop on the back side. I made a pouch sheath (also from a template). The snap constricts the opening just enough so the guard cannot pass by. This is before dying and waxing. And I made a loop sheath for that Bowie.
  10. 2 points
    I think it was Alan who suggested this in a previous thread about Epoxy clean-up, but a Non-ferrous “blade”/scraper worked wonders for me to clean up squeeze-out on the front and back of scales! Being copper or brass it won’t mar or scratch the steel surface and if care is taken it won’t damage the scale either *EDIT- this is for AFTER the epoxy has dried...do not recommend while still wet use the acetone thing for that I really like this shape BTW! Awesome work!!!
  11. 1 point
    If I were you I'd read what Steve said again. I agree with him, given the state of that blade you don't need to start too rough, and sanding in only one direction is fine. For this blade. Steve does Japanese sword restoration professionally, you see.
  12. 1 point
    Thumbs up ....................
  13. 1 point
    They were all the same alloy (similar to 440C). I don't think there are any left in the pawn shops. And my understanding is that none of them went cheap. And honestly, I think the Rhino/Alec Steele alloy is a better anvil alloy (though not by too much, just fewer carbides so a bit tougher; both are through hardening).
  14. 1 point
    Are they stainless too? If so, a trip to the Spokane area pawn shops might be in order...
  15. 1 point
    Quite true, and I was hoping you'd chime in. If someone went to the trouble of making that pattern, there are probably a few more of these out there. Postman used an example of these no-name anvils by picturing one he was told had come from a foundry in Detroit that made steel castings for the automotive industry from the 30s through the 70s. One of the workers made an anvil pattern for a 100-lb anvil, and over the years all the employees ended up with one, as it was a fun way to use up any leftover steel in the ladle. There are at least 30, maybe more, of these, and they have slowly spread across southern Michigan and northwest Ohio as people moved and stuff found its way into yard sales and estate auctions.
  16. 1 point
    Thank you Chris, that is very flattering to hear.
  17. 1 point
    Given the parting line location and recessed bottom side, I would bet this anvil came from an actual pattern, not just putting another anvil in the sand and using it as the pattern. That isn't to say that the pattern wasn't based on another actual anvil, Vulcan or otherwise, just that someone actually went to the effort to build a separate pattern. Also, It looks like the pritchel hole was probably drilled after the fact.
  18. 1 point
    When I do integrals I start with round bar. It's possible to do it freehand using just the edge of the anvil and hammer, but a guillotine fuller or a jig like Billy's make it much easier. Niels has a video on how he does it, There was a tradition of forge-welding iron bolsters to steel blades, but that was more common on the continent. But enough about that. You did a great job on these and should be proud!
  19. 1 point
    Looks good as usual, Zeb.
  20. 1 point
    Not a second or a knockoff. Cast anvils have the markings in raised relief as part of the manufacturing process, and as such the seconds couldn't be marked after the fact. I didn't find anything about this particular anvil in the book, but it looks very much like someone used an early Vulcan as a pattern to cast their own anvil. Easy enough with a sand mold to do that. Given that it rings, it's all steel or heat-treated ductile iron, which is a good thing. No telling who made it, unfortunately. Any steel foundry could do it. It's what Postman (author of the book) calls a no-name. Sorry to be of no help, but that's all I have.
  21. 1 point
    This is great, just read through from the start and that is one pretty blade
  22. 1 point
    Super nice! Very slick workmanship and nice skills. Clint
  23. 1 point
    Hey guys, anyone have a clue what I'm looking at here? I don't have it yet, but was bought for 200$ from a boatyard. Has what seems like a really big horn, almost looks like a Peter wright but I can't see a lamination line. My dad who found it estimates it at 250lb which isn't far off looking at the size. No cracks or dents, really good shape.
  24. 1 point
    Beautiful knife. Bet your friend is going to be pleased. I like your style. In fact, I've got several pictures I've collected of your knives over the past year in my files for future reference.
  25. 1 point
    Those look great! And the one Gary commented on was my favorite too. I love it when this happens. Here's a sketch of a jig I made that drops into the hardy hole that really helps with centering the spine/tang on the bolster. Mine is made out of 2 pieces of 2" square stock.
  26. 1 point
    Just as an aside, I had a magnetic knife rack hanging around, it was brilliant to hold the blade whilst hand sanding. Not sure if there is a reason not to do this, but really worked well. its ok, you can thank me later
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Cheers Alan! Have noticed that you always take the time to offer feedback, I've seen some of the spectacular stuff you can make and it is greatly appreciated. I would love to attempt integral bolsters at some point, though I suspect my current skills are way off and i'm sure there will be an awful lot of cock ups along the way... Thanks, only simple things but I am glad you like them. That one is yew and I also think it is nicest of the bunch- got quite lucky with the nice grain! Alex
  29. 1 point
    Just a cultural variation, as far as I know. Maybe like some of the later pattern-welded blades, sort of a "Just how hard on myself can I make this" sort of thing as a status display. They are not common, nor do they appear in the archaeological record for very long. Maybe it was a single clan of germanic tribesmen advertising their OCD?
  30. 1 point
    You guys referring to the forging project or the plans to make a smoker?
  31. 1 point
    I’ve learnt so much today; 1. 1075 steel is hard 2. keep you work clean 3. flying scale hurts 4. my forge is a beast 5. never make the handle first 6. steel has a personality 7. Bladesmithing is sooo much fun Also normalizing isn’t that scary
  32. 1 point
    Well, right now it's freaking hot here. 117*F today. I love forging, but this is ridiculous.
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    Thank you Jacek. I can see how this would work and it certainly did! Superb work and I really appreciate you sharing. The concept could help me somewhere in the future on a design I think! Kind regards, Gary LT
  35. 1 point
    hello, Sorry for late reply. I have drilled holes and silver soldered earlier prepared 'pepple' i hope this make sense. thanks
  36. 1 point
    It's all over the site, in all the heat-treating threads. Basically it's looking at the steel in the forge to see the moment the crystal structure changes to become hardenable. The steel will be a low red, then as the temperature rises to the point where the transformation occurs you'll see what looks like a swirling line of shadows inside the steel, starting at the thinner parts and working into the blade. Once the shadows have disappeared it's time to quench. That's decalescense, where the shadows represent the energy loss it takes to make the change from body-centered cubic iron crystals to face-centered cubic iron crystals. You see the opposite as it cools slowly, a bright line will appear and work its way off the edge. That's recalescence, the release of energy as the crystal slip back into the lower energy state. It's easy to use in the dark, it works for all low-alloy steels, and it's a pretty darned cool quantum phenomenon involving electrons, photons, and energy states. And you can do it at home!
  37. 1 point
    I think the fact that you can't find anyone who uses one like that says a lot about how useful that modification is...
  38. 1 point
    Nicely done! There is a lot to see!
  39. 1 point
    This was my first commission for a friend. W2, and walnut crotch with denim liners. I did a little bit of experimenting with grey scotch brite, Super awesome results. Gives it a nice milky high grit satin look. I think this one turned out really well. What do ya think? If you have any critique please do tell. Thanks for looking
  40. 1 point
    Color is not your best gauge of temperature. The color changes depending on ambient light conditions. In bright daylight a near molten piece of steel looks grey. If you have to go by color, do your heat treating in a dark shop, cherry red is what the books say, but again, depending on the light, you could be 400 degrees too hot. Testing with a magnet is better, you'll still be a little high, but not so much. Better yet would be a pyrometer. You can get a cheap digital online for around $50. Geoff
  41. 1 point
    A dry q tip for the first few cleaning passes and only when the majority of it has been wiped away do you need to use the acetone to clean the residue off.
  42. 1 point
    Jacek ... amazing work! I have no clue how you managed to make the “pepple” grain surface on the round stem below the point! Obviously that has my attention and mind rolling! my best, Gary LT
  43. 1 point
    What Daniel said. My local guild covers the corner of three states, where Tennessee, North Carolina, and Virginia come together. You'll find there will usually be a meeting within a two-hour drive from you wherever you are in the eastern US, four or five hours out west. When we can have meetings, that is.
  44. 1 point
    J.D. Like Daniel W said, The Backyard Blacksmith is an extremely good book. I'm new here myself and got started in bladesmithing about 2-1/2 years ago and a friend suggested this book to me. Very good read and a wealth of information and knowledge in it. I know how you feel about getting in contact with a local Blacksmith club... I'm located in South Central Illinois out in the sticks too !!
  45. 1 point
    Just wanted to share a knife I recently finished and have available for purchase. The blade is hand forged 1084 with as forged flats and ricasso, copper guard/bolster, black fiber spacer, and walnut handle. Sheath is veg tan tooling leather dyed USMC black and waxed with a combination of beeswax and paraffin for weatherproofing. The welt is glued in and saddle stitched for maximum longevity in the outdoors. Every part of this knife was hand crafted by me in my shop and is available for $250 CAD plus shipping. For those that use freedom dollars that is about $185 USD plus shipping. Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions
  46. 1 point
    Discovered an interesting clay mix for forge body by half accident today. Seems adding around 1% powered softwood charcoal gives it an interesting insulation boost. Quite high might i add. Ive had it running for approximately 3 hours now and the outside is still wet and lukewarm at best. The inside is yellow. Im taking a shot in the dark and assume the charcoal burned out leaving a porous clay shell. Originally added charcoal powder as a way to assist in drying without cracking when fireing instead of waiting days for the clay to do so on its own. Overall thickness is 3 1/2in all the way around
  47. 1 point
    hello, Completed project including oak scabbard. Thank you Jacek
  48. 1 point
    Today I hit the forge and welded the bars together. I had done the math to figure out how much steel I would need. Then, I reread my notes on dimensions and did the math again. I needed more steel. So today I took a bigger piece of wrought and a bigger 1' round and made two new square bars. Here are the new starting bars. The short one is 18.5 inches long. So I was looking at a perfectly good bar of wrought and another bar of W1 and I dug around in the PW scrap and there was a bar of something semi-twisted, I forget what. It was about the right dimensions, so I figured I'd make a 3-bar billet as well. By the time I got done forging, I had made three billets of multi-bar steel or steel/wrought combo. Video coming soon to a YouTube channel near you. The one in the middle is for this project. About 19 inches long, 1-3/4 inches wide and 1/2 inch thick.
  49. 1 point
    Lovely. There is a subtle Asian nuance to the blade, even before HT (if I am sequencing the pics correctly)
  50. 1 point
    Bolster looks like a collar. In the original made by forging process. I was afraid to do the same, so as not to damage the blade, so the folded collar of the ball iron and carefully adjusted the way the place of plumbing. The back plate on the handle also made of ball iron. The handle is manufactured from the old bog oak. It is a piece of the frame of the sunken ship, divers raised from the bottom of the North Sea. Apparently the ship lay at the bottom of at least 250-300 years. I decided not to putty all the cracks in the wooden handle, it fits very well with the items.
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