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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/30/2020 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Blade--W1 Handle--Desert Ironwood Guard--300 layer Damascus w/ivory inlay & clam shell knuckle bow Fittings--416
  2. 4 points
    Bruno: The forum belongs to us all. Don Fogg created it, and he made it clear that he wanted it to continue in the spirit of joint ownership by the Bladesmithing community. Legally, I guess, I own it, because Don had to give over financial responsibility to someone. I don't feel that way, however. I've had several offers to purchase it from investors, given our very large traffic, and offers to advertise on it to make revenue, but I've turned them all down because that's not what this place is about. In the event of my death my estate will continue to pay for the forum until it's formally transferred to another admin who has generously offered to take over if I get an anvil dropped on my head (not as unlikely as it seems in our profession, right?) In terms of a digital archive: That would be tough, I think, since the content is in a database that is formatted for this particular forum software. Niels would know more about this than me, but it does occur to me that the Wayback machine at Archive.org auto archives a lot of the interent. Perhaps it backs up our forum? At any rate, we're going to keep this thing going for a long, long time. Don't worry. We'll be here. Dave
  3. 3 points
    Small game in 12c27 with eucalyptus over micarta Mini bullnose with matai on the 1084 blade. bullnose skinner with ss bolster, buff horn and ss spacers with tassie blackwood on the 1084 blade. Safari knife with gidgee over ss on 1095
  4. 3 points
    Since I have to haul all my tools out of the garage to forge in the driveway. I had to figure a way to keep my tools handy while working and be able to store when done. I made a folding rack that keeps my tools in one place and can fold up for easy storage. Just put tools in a bucket for storage. Hope someone in the same situation finds it handy. The frame is 1” angle and the cross members are 1.5” x 1/4. They are drilled out on the end 7/8 to go around 1/2 pipe with 1/2 all thread through and bolted to frame. The other end is 7/8 but cut out at an angle on bottom to connect to other end. You can see that in one of the pictures. Pipe and all thread can be used for the pivot and other end but I had rod with threaded ends already.
  5. 2 points
    A good day in the shed. I spent the better part of the day on the helve hammer with some good progress and then after lunch a customer came to pick up a knife and bought another one for the for sale box.Still have to cut the drive arm and the tup shaft, make up the gooseneck and guide but am really quite pleased with where it isThe motor is set so that I dont need a spring to hold it off the belt tension as the way I set it the weight of gives it a natural tendency is to fall back toward the main shaft so taking tension off the belt. I have a wood block for it to rest against but will replace it with a steel now that I have it worked
  6. 2 points
    I finally ordered some of that stabilized wood from Jason Williams on FB (thanks for the tip @Garry Keown) and they arrived today. These are heavy in the hand and feel like rocks, but wow!
  7. 2 points
    I spent much of the day at the engineers getting the anvil for the helve hammer sorted out. Will upload a yourtube video I am editing to my W I P thread on the build. Welding the hard face on top and a button that could be center drilled for the lathe. It was later taken off. In the big lather getting the hard face trued up and a bit turned down off the shaft so the table top would have a 10mm step up to the anvil top Table top and base plate welded on and ready to be bolted ontp the floor plate
  8. 2 points
    This was just an experiment to see how large of a blade I could get out of an old file. Ended up with something like a half-sized Oakeshott XVIIIa
  9. 2 points
    Hit the flea market yesterday early, and hit a stash of old Nicholson and Simmonds files....about 40 or so. Bout to let em soak!
  10. 2 points
    A 3rd arm is just what you need to hold your pan-galactic gargle blaster while forging! Of course, you really need a 2nd head to do it right.
  11. 2 points
    I am excited to say that I just sold this one
  12. 2 points
    I made my first ever batch of knives in the past few weeks, and this is the 3rd and final blade from the batch. Forged from a cold chisel while I wait for some proper bar stock to arrive. The handle is an unidentified wood from South Florida that I salvaged after hurricane Irma in 2017, pretty much looks like slightly curly maple. Copper liners and pins, and ebony bolster. It steel needs some finish work, but I don't really have the equipment yet, my shop is quite primitive. I'm going to bring it to a friend's shop when I can and finish it up, thought I'd post it in the meantime. Had some trouble with the plunge lines, I don't have a file guide so I was clamping wood blocks in place, which of course get ground down. I kinda like a vertical pins through the ebony, and the little collar where the copper liner extends past the handle. Might be cool to play with in the future and add some engraving or texture to it. Maybe cut the copper into a more interesting shape... Let me know of any critiques you may have! + shop chicken
  13. 2 points
    Well this is going to go slow . I worked on my carved handle this weekend and today,lots of sanding to figure out (getting into corners etc). Here it is first carving,leaves are the theme still have some touching up to do. Sometimes photos are good to spot things you want to work on.
  14. 2 points
    Hello all. Here's the santoku from the May 6 post for my brother-in-law before he comes by to pick it up. The billet was 15 layers of 1080/15N20. I used to not be a fan of low layer patterns, but if one forges it thin enough...the pattern looks good, but I'm not sure it's worth all the fun I had with the piece of bacon that came out of the quench, though. The spine is 0.062" thick at the heel, tapering to 0.028" at the point. 1 3/4" heel height. Handle is K&G stabilized spalted maple burl with ebony bolster. And here's a petty he picked up as well. Made of 1080, 15N20 and O1. Handle is stabilized curly maple with a mahogany bolster. Critiques always welcome, thanks.
  15. 2 points
    Hello people, I show you my latest work, Damascus style knife, forged with recycled 1095 and 1070 steels, kept in San Mai, oak cape and cowhide leather sheath. I hope you like it video-1590785025.mp4 video-1590784957.mp4
  16. 2 points
    I was really honored when the "Heart Team" from O.U. Medical Center came to my office and said they wanted me to work with them on the heart pump. The "revolutionary" idea (at the time) was to keep the patient alive while the heart was taken out of the body, laid on an operating table and repaired before being put back into the body and retaking it's designed function. I almost didn't believe them when they told me what they wanted me to build and what they wanted it for. Our company was also involved in making the first pressurize suit for open heart surgery on dogs back in the middle 60's............which was part of the same project, obviously.
  17. 2 points
    My grinder arrived!! I’m still waiting for the stand and flat paten (Monday stinking fed-x). But I got it together and was able to play with it a bit! I’m so amazed at what a difference it is from my little 1x30 !! The steel doesn’t get nearly as hot and comes of at quadruple speed! I’m still learning how to properly grind but this machine will make my journey much nicer. the grinder is an AmeriBrade 2hp(1.5@120v) VFD, 10in wheel, flat paten, small wheel holder both with accessory arms.
  18. 2 points
    Well here it is all finished. Had some challenges but I learnt heaps and am overall happy with the result. I will be taking Chris’s advice and get some finer carving tools.
  19. 1 point
    Somebody is going to be a forging demon!
  20. 1 point
    Looking good, Garry! One thing to note when using V-belts as a slack belt clutch: They tend to be grabby, making it hard to feather in light blows. If you notice this happening, you may want to wax the grooves in the pulleys and the belt itself, or even add a little grease if needed. Ideally the belt should be able to slip easily, but also grab tight when you really stomp the treadle. Once you get the amount of slip figured out, and how much you need to wax, oil, or grease the belt and pulleys, you should be able to get anything from light taps to a full-strength blow just by a small amount of movement on the treadle.
  21. 1 point
    I am loving that one Rob. I am feeling the need to do a seax with a carved handle. Hopefully, I can come close to something that nice.
  22. 1 point
    Never too old to make a mistake or learn something new
  23. 1 point
    Whew, it's certainly reassuring I'm not the only crafts person on the forum who has to take "side trips" sometimes.
  24. 1 point
    Well, you made a good call. That bullnose skinner is my favorite of that batch!
  25. 1 point
    Oh, it appeals to me, Josh. But I'm just about 35 years older than I'd want to be when starting on a project like that.
  26. 1 point
    Progress on the seax. After a couple failed handles I glued one up. It just kills me that this is sitting back in my shop waiting to be finished. It's so close! Soon...
  27. 1 point
    Couple of 5 gal buckets with lids, add a splash of bleach and you'll have water for the toilet. Not counting the hot water heater, I store both drinking and general use water, enough for at least a few days. If it's longer then that, the heater is 34 gallons. Plus most of the time, bad weather means the creek is flowing and that's my primary toilet water source.
  28. 1 point
    that looks great. I don't usually get that much banding in W1. I love the knife, though. Just a comment. It looks awesome.
  29. 1 point
    I find it is easier to do the plunges without a chicken on my foot
  30. 1 point
    Here in farming country it was always red sky at night shepards delight, red sky in the morning shepards warning.
  31. 1 point
    We've had a few spectacular sunsets during the lock down here in the UK, I took this photo from my bedroom window looking over the village
  32. 1 point
    In the meantime, I found some photos I took during the forging of the wolf tooths spearhead I posted few days ago.
  33. 1 point
    Yep, I'm diggin' that one!
  34. 1 point
    Waaaaayyy better than my 3rd. It looks great! I really like the handle / guard area. The protruding copper looks really cool. You are definately on your way!! Tom
  35. 1 point
    Well now, THAT turned out nice, didn't it?
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    this is an ambitious project. I am looking forward to it!
  38. 1 point
    That is fantastic for a third knife, especially if you are restricted to less than ideal tools. Doug
  39. 1 point
    My opinion, worthless as it is, is much like George Silvers'. However, I'm really interested in seeing what you do with it. Doug
  40. 1 point
    Cool, now that you explained, it was pretty obvious. I'm on a well, so I should have had an clue :-)
  41. 1 point
    NOICE !!!........................
  42. 1 point
    The thing with making a forge is, you start out with all the best intentions of making a clean looking, beautifully crafted thing, and after the 20th modification, it works perfectly, but looks like a burnt pile of crap. The sooner you accept this inevitability the happier you will be Eventually you end up with basically a pile of firebricks, with a burner poking into it ! I would strongly recommend a CO alarm in your garage or the building where the forge is sitting outside. Badly tuned forges pump out a massive amount of carbon monoxide. Might be the best $20 you spend! (and CO poisoning is cumulative) edit, there is a good book if you are interested in the workings of burners (sure you can find it cheaper! https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gas-Burners-Forges-Furnaces-Kilns/dp/1879535203 ) I learnt loads about making burners, and make some good ones on the back of the information in the book. If I had 'my time' again, I would have just purchased an 'Amal' burner and concentrated on the forging! (although the 'Amal's' were not really known about for home forges 'in the olden days'
  43. 1 point
    In the past I have almost exclusively used a dremel to carve but this time I have used some chisels and gouges I made from an old rasp. Very slow careful going but here is the progress so far.
  44. 1 point
    Hello everyone, The last month or so I have been working on a Damascus hunting knife with a stabilized beech handle. Since I am taking pictures for my Instagram account anyway, I figured it would be nice to post this on the ‘’old fashioned’’ forums as well. For this hunting knife I am going for a more traditional design than I would normally do, this is a ‘’simple’’ drop point hunter with a guard and hopefully a takedown handle. On this knife I really want to focus on my fit and finish, normally one of my weaker points in knifemaking. As I normally make historically inspired knives doing a modern knife comes with a lot of firsts and I have really enjoyed working on it so far. For instance: this is the first time I’m trying sweeping plunges, a takedown design or working with stabilized wood. I went through several different designs and did a lot of tweaking to get this knife exactly where I want it. Carbon tracing paper is a huge help in trying out different handle shapes. The blade material is 450 layer random pattern Damascus, the steels are O2 and 75Ni8. To test if the grind lines I’d drawn were actually possible I ground a test knife out of mild steel, the plunges turned out to not be as difficult as I had feared. The mild steel also made a great template to use when forging. Normally I would forge closer to shape, but I didn’t want to risk a stray hammer blow messing up my plunges. After a bit of grinding I heat treated the blade to +- 61 Hrc and tempered the spine and ricasso back with a torch, this gives extra toughness and also allows me to file in my tang shoulders very precisely. I tend to do most of my grinding post Heat treat, the O2 is deep hardening enough and with fresh belts there is not much risk involved. After the knife is ground, I start on the fittings, there is a guard and two spacers, the middle spacer is bronze I cast myself and the other is mild steel. The spacer assembly is held together with drilled and reamed pins, a bit of extra work, but it makes alignment very easy. A threaded piece is silver brazed to the tang, I made a bronze nut for it on my lathe to keep the entire assembly together. This allows me to pull the knife apart as many times as I want, when the knife is finished this will make re-finishing a lot easier also. The handle is made from spalted beech wood, this stabilized wood is very nice to work with, and just needs a buff to get to a nice shine. The only downside is that it really stinks when grinding. From here on it was a lot of boring polishing to get the surfaces good enough. The last thing is sharpening and making a leather sheath, and it is time to take some pictures with an actual camera.
  45. 1 point
    Overall good work. From first glance at the finished pictures I would have said that it was historically incorrect. Glad you included the illustrations of an historical example so I didn't make a fool of myself, again. The only thing that I don't like is the hammer marks left up near the spine. I would have gotten rid of them by extending the flat grind all the way to the spine but I have to admit that it's just my taste. Also, dealing with a corroded blade as an example I can't really argue that the hammer marks were always ground out. Doug
  46. 1 point
    Hello Everyone! First I'd like to apologize as I have not been active on this forum in quite some time; I spent the last 6 years finishing my degree in jewelry/metalsmithing, working as a goldsmith, then moving to the Midwest to get my MFA in metalsmithing, with the last few years dedicated to sculptural work and teaching. However, now that the world is effectively shut down, I've been finishing up old projects that have been languishing in my tool box; this old seax blade being one of them. The seax itself is nothing special, I forged the blade maybe 5 or 6 years ago and if I can recall I'm pretty sure that its 1095. I've tried to hilt it several times over the years, but nothing ever felt quite right. I think I can finally call it done with this simple hilt. Specs are: Blade- 1095 Hilt- Bronze, Briar, Maple, Oak Total Length: 13.5″ (34.3 cm) Blade Length: 8.375″ (21.27 cm) Hilt Length: 5.125″ (13 cm) Blade Width at Bolster: 3/16″ (4.8 mm) Also, I'm terribly sorry for the cheesy sheepskin photograph; I'm currently in between places right now and its the only thing I have that's somewhat uniform in color
  47. 1 point
    Blade: W1 Spinal Wrap: Damascus Handle: Desert Ironwood w/ Fossil Walrus Ivory Spacer Fittings: 416
  48. 1 point
    ..or it might be bloom. Its some high carbon grainy steel I pinched from Owen Bush's scrap that we though was just wrought. Laminated it with with wrought iron and put a handle on it. Silver birch burl I have on permanent loan from an estate in the Cairngorms. Brass sheet brazed into a ferrule and brass sleeve over the tang to peen against. Wet formed veg tan sheath over a pine core with bronze jump ring
  49. 1 point
    Slavic TRYGLAV 2 meters high. 1 meter around the perimeter. Ash tree. Started with the growing moon and finished today.
  50. 1 point
    Just finished making my mark, it is a monkeys foot. I don’t have my forge set up right now so I can’t test it on steel yet.
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