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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/28/2021 in all areas

  1. A few weeks ago a kid (I say kid, college senior doing an honors thesis, probably 21 or so ) came to my local guild meeting to ask if anyone could help him with a sword. His honors thesis involves hand-making everything that appears in a portrait of a Scots nobleman of the mid-18th century. He's already made the shoes and belts, woven the fabric for the hose and jacket, made the hat, and all sorts of other things. Since he also makes flintlock rifles by hand, and as such proved he's no idiot, I agreed to see what he could do with the equipment I have that he needed to help with the sword bla
    16 points
  2. It’s been a long time since I posted anything this is the latest off my bench FullSizeRender.mov
    11 points
  3. Just finished this small narrow sax. Wrought iron and silver steel for the blade, box wood bolster and bog oak handle, carved with a bind rune for the recipient and a geometric border. Riveted copper draw ring with bronze bail. Tooled leather sheath with copper and bronze fittings. let me know what you think.
    10 points
  4. I'm working on these two machines at the moment! they are just so pretty I thought they should get their own thread! The 2 cwt is my personal hammer, now rebuilt after the fire. The 1 cwt is off to a customer. In the UK both of these machines are regarded as 'Rolls Royce' Not often you see them side by side in nice condition They are both ready for testing next week. Busy busy!
    10 points
  5. It's been what, 3.5 years since I first posted here, working with a file jig? And now I'm being published in Blade. This is crazy... And mostly because of this forum. The knife pictured was supposed to be in the KITH and I couldn't finish it in time. Thanks to everyone here who took the time to answer my questions with patience and respect.
    10 points
  6. I know everyone has blades they forged and maybe even heat treated laying around waiting for inspiration to finish them out. I've got blades that have been waiting ten years or more. Here are three of a batch of four I finished up a while back. I sold the forth one without getting a picture, and it was probably the best looking of the lot. This is the big one... 1084, copper, and stag: This is the middle one. 1084, copper, and stag: And this is the baby of the bunch. I don't know how long
    9 points
  7. Hello, i would like to show you my last work. Blade is made from wrought iron, mild steel and my favourite K720 and the handle materials are bronze and subfosil oak. Ihope you like it and i will post its "brother" very soon .
    8 points
  8. Just finishing this one up. 1095, antler and copper. let me know what you think...
    8 points
  9. Stretched crushed W's with stainless fittings and spalted Tamarind handle.
    8 points
  10. Have these all done now and ready for the heritage day here early november. The shop has another 10 or 12 that I will get back to have a decent display. Just the group pic for today as its been a long one getting all the sheaths sewn, hot waxed and the blades all sharpened so will get some individual pics and details later in the week. Couple of new handle materials in there
    7 points
  11. Haven’t posted or been on here in a very long time but here are the blades I’ve finished this past year. I don’t know exact dimensions because it’s been a while since I’ve made them but I’ll do my best. Little over 8” blade out of 80crv2 with black linen micarta and bocote. Heel I think is 2 1/8” tall, I remember that this was a thicker blade both at the spine (.13” maybe?) and edge (.01-.015?). This is about 7” blade out of W1 drill rod with some autohamon from a forge heat treatment. Between 1 7/8” - 2” tall heel. The handle is dyed curly maple with gr
    7 points
  12. I haven’t had a ton of knife making time lately, especially for projects other than custom orders, but I managed to squeeze this one in. A 6” santoku made from White #2 and 1018, the handle is nickel silver and basswood to emulate the handle construction commonly found on vintage Japanese kitchen knives. The grind is slightly asymmetric and it has a roughly 70/30 edge which I’m interested to try out. Pre heat treat and coated with a slurry prior to water hardening along with a 300mm yanagiba you may be seeing more of. Being ab
    6 points
  13. Hi all, after long working, i am happy. Here the finished Seax. Ruggero
    6 points
  14. This is one of two knives that I made out of my first san mai billet. The core is 1080 and the sides are 1080/15N20 93 layer damascus. The handle is stainless and desert ironwood. The blade is 4 and 1/4" The handle is 4 and 1/2" I discovered I don't forge very evenly, and that it's very important to forge san mai evenly. Overall though, I'm pretty happy with my first attempt. It is going to a fellow knifemaker so he can make himself some sandwiches.
    6 points
  15. Alder burl found in a clear cut from about two years ago. This should make a nice blade handle
    6 points
  16. Second sword of the year finished. I found a blade in my ever growing pile of unfinished things and finally got an idea in how to finish it. I'd like to call it a hand and a half sabre but opinions might vary 88cm long blade and overall length of 110cm 8mm thick up at the guard and has a non linear distal taper to 3mm 5cm from the tip Point of balance is 9cm from the guard and point of percussion is right in front of the fuller 56cm from the guard Quite beefy at 1615grams and it has a strong appleseed edge, false edge from fuller to tip is sharp as well. Grip is
    6 points
  17. Started this project 6 months ago, its been very stop start due to other commitments, but finally got her under power! A full 12 metric tons, placed inside a 'ring frame' - this is the simplest and strongest design I could think of. I wince when I see presses flexing and ramping under load, so wanted my design to be tight and right! We ran a FEA analysis on the frame, and it does not flex at all until its got over 100 ton loading Press has a 2 horse motor, running at 8.5 amps from a single phase 240v supply (which is the max FLC of the motor) - seems to work nicely.
    6 points
  18. Hi all, the seax is ready. Now i beginn withe the sheath carving. Ruggero
    6 points
  19. Quite a delay, but with the deadline here I got things wrapped up. Not shown is a lot of struggling in vain with the bronze sheet. The original plan was a somewhat cleaner look, but the “Druid” aesthetic has grown on me! Maybe it’s all the wandering in the woods year and a half without a hair cut… Having given up on the metal, I finished off the sheath with some bark to reinforce it and add a belt loop. The strips are cut in a spiral from a fallen trunk since all the birch I had access to were tiny. And here it is! Thank you everyone for followin
    6 points
  20. Got the knifemaking wind in my sails for the first time in about a year! ground this 240 gyuto I had previously forged, and did a surprisingly neat job! It will probably all be down hill from here, but nice to be making again!
    6 points
  21. Finished a small batch today. 7" long bowie of chainsaw chain and 1084 powder, african blackwood handle. 6" long hunter of forged 80CRV2, black G10 handle. I have made several of these now, folks seem to like the size. 4" long drop point W's pattern of 1084/15N20, G10 handle at client request - I believe he has lost knives befor. I know the feeling as lost one last week field dressing an elk, set it down and it disappeared in the grass and bush......lucky found after an extensive search! Lesson: don't set down green and tan paracord wrapped knife in the g
    6 points
  22. Hello, Norman Sword made during sword making class with a student. Blade: EN45 Crossguard and pommel: mild steel Handle: wood and leather Scabbard still to do....:) Thanks Jacek
    6 points
  23. Today i casted some bronze horse heads for a new piece in my rohirrim inventory. I hope it will be done soon
    5 points
  24. Tried something different that I've been interested in. San mai with A203,copper, 15n20,copper with a 26c3 core. Needs a little more grinding and I need to figure out etching better.
    5 points
  25. After learning the wife was more open than expected to the idea of me buying an anvil, I did a bit more looking around on Marketplace. Lo and behold, somebody was cleaning out their garage! This is the only marking I could find after a good bout with a wire wheel. Looks to be a 208, and since I can barely pick it up, I'm guessing that's the weight. The rebound looks to be 90%+ with a 5/8 ball bearing. Dang thing is almost mint! It would be cool to know its age and maker, but since it's already mine, it would just be for the fun of it.
    5 points
  26. put some clothes on the blade I posted up last week! Handle is micarta, and Walnut. Im not 100% convinced, but its growing on me a bit.
    5 points
  27. 5 points
  28. Making four knives for a customer who insists on having laminated full-tang slabs of G-10 topped with bone. Dilemma: I want to slant the front edge of the slabs back at 45° and can only accomplish what I need after they are glued together. I can set the work rest on my grinder to 135° to get the angle, but I would have to grind bone side down. The bone hasn't been flattened and there's no way to flatten it in true parallel to the flat of the G-10. Fix: I made a real quick jig out of 3/4 plywood so I could screw the slab flat and then grind upside down.
    4 points
  29. Got this lot all finish ground so some hand sanding to come
    4 points
  30. Yesterday I finished up my Argentine grill build. I have a Pitmaster customer who gave me some guidance.
    4 points
  31. Hi Guys, i just finished my seax. Last thing to do ist the schoulder belt. Ruggero
    4 points
  32. Just got back from a few days there. The foudations were installed last week and Liz & I had to run out and waterproof the stemwalls before the backfilling. There will be a 1472 SF log home standing on this at some point...... View from the north, back porch on the left. View from mostly the west. Front porch columns. Me enjoying the art of smearing Henry's asphalt emulsion... Liz working in the trench on the north face Last, but not least, the shop foundation. 576 SF log st
    4 points
  33. Which is why using temper colors is a bad idea. Thermometers and ovens are cheap. You all knew I would have to chime in and say it.
    4 points
  34. Good day everyone. I recently made the below K-Tip Gyuto, it is also my first ever kitchen knife, for a knife build challenge for one of the local knife shows hosted in Johannesburg. The knife is made from 1085 with a clay-packed Hamon finished up to 600grit and a chisel grind. The Wa handle is constructed from Dyed and stabilized maple burl a red g10 spacer and wild olive. The blade length is 10" and the handle is 5.3" Please let me have your thoughts on how and where I can improve my design and the finishing on the knife.
    4 points
  35. It is a heavy thing, and comes in two boxes The smaller one is the press frame itself. I got the grey paint option The other box has the tank and power plant, and any dies you ordered. It had the most fascinating packing material: old cardboard boxes that had been run through a shredder. It took just a bit of excavating That thing is HEAVY. There was no lifting it out, so I had to cut the box (with my nice shiny new 52100 EDC!) I work in my garage, so this thing must be able to relocate. To do that, I go
    4 points
  36. A few months ago the Director of our local State Historical Park asked if I would be willing to make something for a fund raiser. A bit of searching this is the design I settled on. Oregon Trail 1850's. Have not done anything with bolsters before, so this is my prototype. Used .120 1075 stock removal, 3/8 thick brass and black walnut.
    4 points
  37. One side of the sheath is carved Ruggero
    4 points
  38. It isn't. Modern steel is definitely superior. Wootz is difficult to make and work, but looks nice. It was better than other "steels" centuries ago. What we refer to as damascus now is much easier, and often has a look that pops a bit more, as well as being able to control the patterns very well.
    4 points
  39. All ready for a glue up this afternoon
    4 points
  40. Today, I unboxed a Coal Iron 12-ton press.
    4 points
  41. This is my first attempt at a melt. Looks okay to me, going to do thermal cycling a few times before taking it to the press. 250 grams 1084 steel and 150 cast iron, borax-flourspar flux topped with Grolsch Pilsener bottle glass. Figure approx. 1.5 C. Mini ingot, only 380 grams.
    4 points
  42. You realize you have to give it pin stripes now, don't you? . Gold ones.
    4 points
  43. Four more ready to go to Oregon in the US. A Light HUnter with spalted maple burl over curve backed buffalo horn bolsters on the 1084 blade. Three A H EDC's with Koa (Hawaii) Maple burl (USA) and Karelian Birch burl (Ukraine) on the cryo treated NitroV SS blades.
    4 points
  44. Shoulder surgery that I was expecting in October or November happened on 6 September with very little notice. I was expecting 6 weeks in a sling and 9-12 months recovery time, and my biggest concern was not making knives for that long..... Been struggling a bit in recent months, but I became very motivated the 2 weeks before the surgery and finished a number of knives, photos to follow. Cleaned up my shop and packed away as much as I could, glad to report the shoulder needed less work than anticipated, recovery is going well and I hope to get back in the shop by November, December
    4 points
  45. Yesterday I surface ground two of three I finished Saturday. The random one needs a little more grinding.
    4 points
  46. One huge variable here is what steel you used. On some of the higher alloys, retained austenite will stabilize if left untempered for any length of time. It usually converts to martensite during the first temper, which is then tempered peoperly by the second. If, in an alloy like O1, you leave it sitting for a few hours, it won't convert. While usually not fatal, it results in a blade with sub-par performance compared to what it could have been. Still better than a Walmart special, but not as good as it could have been.
    3 points
  47. And the taper of the flare shall be 1:12, and 1:12 shall be the taper. Neither 1:10 nor 1:15, and 1:4 is right out... Seriously though, about the same basic taper as a pint glass, wide end is the inner wall of the forge lining. And if anyone tells you to use a bell reducer for that purpose, just say no.
    3 points
  48. 3 points
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