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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/04/2021 in all areas

  1. Hi everyone, I just finished a tanto I had been working on for the last 3 weeks . The blade is W2, uchi-sori with a 7 1/2" nagasa, and the fittings are copper with shibuichi inlays. Here are the photos of the build: Profiling: Hardening: Polished: Now for the part that's really time consuming, the fittings: For this blade, I decided on a ginkgo leaf theme, a symbol of pe
    15 points
  2. I got the photo proof back yesterday from Whetstone studio of my full set. Some of these you have likely seen already. These are the five that were in the judging room
    12 points
  3. Hi guys, I recently posted a preview of a blade I have been working on, and I have now finally been able to finish the complete knife - sheath not included... thought I'd give a bit of a new preview of the whole thing. All inlay in both handle, bolster and blade are 24 karat gold wire, 0,7mm in thickness. Bolster is in meteorite iron - which is nerve wrecking to work with when doing inlay. Some areas are more fragile than others, and if you look closely at the "R" - you'll see the outline of a
    11 points
  4. Black Curse - this is how the Turkish name Karabela was interpreted. It sounds both menacing and picturesque, and it really is. This weapon, when equipped with a handle of the Polish type - eagle's head widening towards the beak - as a master Wojciech Zabłocki maintained, in the hands of a skilled fencer, was evoking respect and was able to inflict irreparable losses on the opponent's body. I just finished such a karabela. The construction of the hilt of this type of saber is interesting - a strap of brass sheet encirceling the wooden plates is soldered to the sheet adjacent to the tan
    9 points
  5. Finished this one up today. It has a 3 1/8" blade and a 4 1/4" handle. The steel is 1080 and the handle material is brass, bighorn sheep, and amboyna burl. This is probably one of the cleanest EDCs I've done yet. I used alignment pins and did most of the handle shaping off the blade, and the handle actually came out looking like I wanted it to. Thanks for looking. Faye,
    9 points
  6. Hi Guys, I have not been forging for a bit as I have been concentrating on my Wildlife Photography but I needed an axe for camp fires so I forged this up yesterday and handled it today. Farriers Rasp and saw bit. Hope you guys are all safe. Rob
    9 points
  7. This title may surprise some of you, coming from me as it is with my constant emphasis on learning to grind freehand. And I still think freehand is the best way to do large blades, and the only way to do certain complex historical grinds. Folders, however, are another story. They have to be precise, and it's darned near impossible to grind folder blades while holding them in hand, since they have extremely short tangs and get too hot to hold very fast. I was bumbling along with a make-do extended handle thing (basically clamping the little blades to a chunk of 1x3/8 flat bar),
    8 points
  8. I was recently contacted by someone through my FB page asking about a dagger I made several years ago (2016?). He wanted to know if I could make another one and how much it would cost. Now you know why I use templates! I have the blade, guard, and handle templates from this dagger and can reproduce a fairly accurate copy. This is a 9-bar blade, and it's accordion cut, so I need a big hunk of steel. Here is the starting billet. 3.25" x 1.5" x 5.5"
    6 points
  9. I'm sorta back in business! This morning I moved my grinder and stuff from my shed to my new workplace. Had to rewire the VFD and last time I dismantled it I forgot to mark the wires . Took a good 30 minutes just to sort it out and make sure it doesn't blow up. Feels got to finally be back at it. Now I need some projects!
    6 points
  10. Ameribrade 2x72 has arrived Tool arms get here soon. This will be a game changer for sure
    6 points
  11. Thanks Alex! Though today that may not be the case because it’s polishing time! This is the blade after about an hour on a 120 grit Sun Tiger stone. I’m hoping this was the longest stage of polishing because I had to even out the dips from filing and warps from hardening as well as thin down the edge. Not sure exactly how high I’ll take this on stones, but I have plans for the final polishing step. Next up is 220, then starting the handle!
    6 points
  12. Made some progress on fittings and tsuka for a tanto:
    6 points
  13. I'd like to share two rapier hilts I've made during the past year. I practice historic Italian rapier (techniques of Capo Ferro primarily) and so it's a pleasure that these are being used in practice. I did not make the blades on either sword, however, I'm realizing I cannot find a blade that I am fully happy with and so am preparing to make one to my own specifications in the near future. Maybe I'll post here of my progress on that when I start. The grip on the first is Irish bog oak. On the second is ebony. The second hilt utilizes a few old fencing blades in the design as per t
    6 points
  14. I’ve been kicking this one around for a few months. I’ve always loved the old Mexican Bowie knives and I’m a native Texan.. a cowboy in a world that no longer has a use for me. This is my take on a bowie I’d have worn if I had time on my side. 1084, nickel, and figured walnut. I actually clayed it but the hamon was a bit nuts. My pictures aren’t excellent. She’s a big girl. A smidge over 10” blade. The nature of the finish makes it nearly impossible to photograph..
    6 points
  15. I did some forging that I am quite happy with, my new gas forge really is a time saver. on the left a sheet metal template, the right is straight from the forge, almost a shame to grind it. This knife will be subjected to ABS journeyman testing, I finally got some time to spend on that next to commissions and daily life.
    6 points
  16. Big afternoon with all the handles on and in the clamps under the lights for the night. There is from the left canvas micarta, giraffe bone, rosewood, spalted maple burl, desert ironwood hickory burl, amboyna, koa, double dyed box elder, and two of hickory burl
    5 points
  17. 5 points
  18. I guess that by now my love for nagel equipped blades comes as no surprise Forged from a harrow spring and is 5mm thick at the front of the bolsters and tapers in all directions from there, no plunge lines and the tang is deeply fullered under the scales. Having no truly parallel surfaces really does make assembly fiddly but it helps capture the look and feel of the originals and is surprisingly light for it's size. Scales are second grade ebony that I actually prefer over first grade ones as they have a lot more interesting colours. I got various chunks of
    5 points
  19. My brothers girlfriend is a avid hiker, naturalist and forages for mushrooms etc. I built a foraging knife for her, it’s a small blade with stabilized box elder handle and mosaic pins . I used 1084 and 15n20 for the blade. I wanted the brush to be simple and replaceable so I used a natural fiber threaded through a ¼” hole at the butt of the handle and used a whipping to secure it. The sheath is a Sheridan style with a fringe I made from some 3 oz leather. I am a beginner and want to thank all the experienced bladesmiths who post because I am learning a lot from you all.
    5 points
  20. The Old Dominion Blacksmith Association held a chisel forging workshop at the Floyd Center for the Arts. Welding on the high carbon for the edge turned out to be an excellent way of introducing new folks to forge welding. Since it's just a piece of 1" square sitting on top of the chisel body, the only tricking part was being steady while putting it into the fire and removing, only had one fall off, but he got it on the second try :-) Everyone, including some novices were successful in getting the weld.
    5 points
  21. The inspiration for this was an old cleaver my grandpa had in his kitchen that was his grandpa's. It was most likely made by a country blacksmith. The spine was dented and banged up from being hammered through pig and cow carcasses the handle butwas chipped and worn but it was still usable and razor sharp. I don't know what happened to that cleaver but we decided to make one in homage to that old cleaver. We wanted it to look like a country blacksmith made it and to have small imperfections because we thought it would add to the over all look. The blade is 5160. The handle is Mexican desert ir
    5 points
  22. Had to do some fieldwork today. Not fun, but the temporary office space was nice.
    5 points
  23. And the last one of those. Clay hardened c100 steel, 3.2mm at the shoulder and had a convex distal taper. 58mm tall at the heel and a 22cm cutting edge. Buffalo horn, tin and cocobolo in the octagonal handle
    5 points
  24. 5 points
  25. Coffee etch and a little oil.. very happy with it. My grinder finally broke down so no handle or any more knives for a while, but there’s an ameribrade 2x72 coming soon.
    5 points
  26. I've done a few projects with found steel and wood, so I figured I would do it for the KITH this year. In addition, I am finally taking the advice I got from a Design and Critique thread from a while ago and will be adding a few more "rules" to try and get a finished knife that captures the spirit of older pieces. All of the materials for the knife and sheath were found or harvested by me. That includes the glue and finish, which will be pine pitch and birch tar respectively. In addition, I won't be using any power tools or sandpaper for the shaping. I was thinking about making a few scrapers,
    4 points
  27. Hey everyone! Here's a project I'm nearly finished with! I started messing around with some ideas for a small wolf tooth fire striker. This is the prototype, with teeth about the same size as the ring I made a while ago. Made from iron and folded steel. Next one will be in my own home made materials. IMG_0745.MOV Around the time I finished it up I got a mail call! An original wolf tooth spear that I cleaned and etched and sealed. I started to reverse engineer the construction of the spear based on other examples I had seen and
    4 points
  28. Finally finished it last night.
    4 points
  29. Thanks guys! This is a project I've wanted to do for a while. I wasn't quite happy with the forging. This is the first case of doing things differently than I normally would; the end of the tang wasn't pointy enough, which would have been a pain to fix with a file. A little hammering and now there is less tang and more blade which is also somewhat narrower. This is going to be a hidden tang with homemade glue, so I wanted it to have a good taper to develop some holding force when I pound it in. I may do some filing tonight when it's not 100+ degrees in the shop.
    4 points
  30. Those of you that know me, know that I love making the historical style of knife which usually means large. Recently however I accepted a commission to design & build a knife for a customer who has a collection of knives that are <5" OAL. For this I decided on a boot knife of random pattern damascus with a full tang which I left proud for some rope roll filework. The scales are blackwood with 416 bolsters. Not my typical post but I occasionally enjoy making something different. Let me know what you think.
    4 points
  31. This was a fun diversion between knives: Made this for a guy at work. A little forging and a little welding. I only have a Lincoln stick welder, so I used some 1/16 rods. Man, I need a MIG.
    4 points
  32. Introducing......the mammalian protuberance pommel.
    4 points
  33. Every so often you just have to make something for your self. This one came out of a "Serbian" cleaver project. The cleaver went off to it's new owner (and he's happy with it. I hated it.) I had no luck HT'ing this stuff, it just turned into a potato chip, so I left them as found (pretty hard) and cut them with an angle grinder and ground them carefully. I'm waiting on some parts, so I decided to finish up some quick stuff. Steel "?" 1095 at a guess Handle: Stabilized black locust burl Very light very sharp. G
    4 points
  34. Did some profiling today, And played with some clay... Dirty hamon etch (220 grit!) between tempering cycles, because I'm that impatient. Looks like it worked out okay, curious to see what that'll look like with the final polish.
    4 points
  35. Forges work by radiant heat. With solid fuels like coal, the steel is in contact with the burning coke, getting mostly radiant heat with a little conduction. With gas, the idea is to contain the heat of combustion as efficiently as possible, which usually means an enclosed space. Insulation helps efficiency since it reflects heat, or at least keeps it from dissipating. Hard firebrick is a heat sink, and does get very hot indeed. They rarely (the thick ones, anyway) get hot enough to glow on the outside since clay is such an inefficient conductor of heat, but they heat up very s
    4 points
  36. Not in its original location, though. My local guild meeting was today, and as it was too hot to do any forging we were just talking. Someone started lamenting that Ron Claiborne's annual knifemaking hammer-in is no more, as is Ron, for that matter. Someone suggested that we, the State of Franklin Blacksmith's Guild, host a similar event. Question: If we do this, it will be at Rocky Mount State Historic Site in Johnson City, Tennessee. Would you attend? Assuming we can get the usual suspects rounded up (Burt Foster, Bill Wiggins, Fuad Accawi, Stephen Fowler, Lynn Landrum, M
    3 points
  37. Knife in pre-HT grind window etch. Made from bar 2 posts up.
    3 points
  38. If you ever want to appreciate sand paper, I highly recommend doing a burl handle without it. This was fun, but definitely a challenge. Here are the tools I used for handle shaping. The knife is has an asymmetric grind and is long enough to hold with two hands, so I used it like a drawknife for a good bit of the shaping. In the middle is my scraper/burnisher for kinko work, which proved useful for sand paperless finish. I wrapped up the stone finishing with 300 then 800 grit water stones going lengthwise. I then switched to my oilstones to add the secondary
    3 points
  39. Hi all, i just begin my next custom seax. A long broken back seax. The blade is 500 mm long, 34mm high and 7.5 mm thick by the tang / 6 mm at the point. Steel is a C105 forged flat bar. The customer want punched vikink runes on the blade. So i prepared the blade, without cutting edge. So i can better pounch the runes in. For handle material he want yew and rendeer antler. Spacermaterial in not definded. Just at moment, he not now, if he want a silmly sheath, or a viking sheath reconstruction. This seax is just the simpler
    3 points
  40. Another good while of polishing and the blade is up to 220 grit, ready for handle work to start. This is where the handle started: a grey birch stump I pulled out of the freezing mud late in the fall of 2018. Pretty sure it was blown down the preceding spring/winter because there was a decent amount of spalting and insect damage, the latter of which was tragic because it had some really gorgeous wood in it. Here is the piece I chose, it's a little grimy from storage and you can see some of the holes from grubs. I also boiled this before drying it which darke
    3 points
  41. Been playing with a new design for police rescue. Will be from cryo treated 4.8mm NitroV so plenty stout and with the low saber grind will leave a good edge. The glass breaker behind the handle is square to the centerline so will be a platform to hammer against if the need is to drive the tip into a vehicle pannel and I may even look at kydex for the sheath as the micarta handle will be another first with textured/scalloped finish.
    3 points
  42. This statement, coupled with your latest pics, tells me that you have a very bright future in this craft.
    3 points
  43. Don’t have a ton of pics between the (very) rough forging and now, but I’m working on hand sanding after the heat treat and final grind. She’s 2.350” tall at the heel, 8.75” cutting edge, 0.150” thick at the tang junction of the spine, and tapers down to nothing at the tip. Full flat grind (a learning curve for me on a blade this size for sure). I did three normalization cycles using my propane forge and middle pipe, then a quench into 130* Canola oil. Tempered at 315* for two 2-hr cycles. I did have to do some straightening during the tempering, but not too bad. I was serio
    3 points
  44. I made this as a trade for some silver pieces for another knife, which is on the back burner for now. 1080 acid washed and stone tumbled, about 4 inches flat back grind, like a yari Black dyed walnut (also flat backed) and a blackened steel spacer The new owner wants as plain as possible, it was a real effort not to do some sort of embellishment. I hope she likes it.
    3 points
  45. Hi everyone. When I was a teen there was an illustration in a Dungeons and Dragons book of a sword that was shooting a lightening bolt, or energy, or something. The drawing showed the sword encased in wavy, crackling energy or magic or something. Here is my attempt to capture that feeling in pattern weld. Minor inclusion near the base of the blade, but . . . meh . . . still looks okay. This is an Oakeshott XII blade, copied pretty exactly from Peter Johnsson's design. I haven't come up with a hilting plan for it yet. Probably bronze fittings and carved black
    3 points
  46. What I learned to do, and has worked for me, is thin walls (1/8") and thick end pieces (at least 1/2" thick, more depending on the height of the can), with the end pieces being the more important of the 2. Here's a quick sketch of the difference of what happens during your first couple of squishes with the can: The thick end piece (right) will help to compress the powder from the ends while forging, making a more solid billet. The thin side walls make removal easy.
    3 points
  47. Hello my fellow magicians! Allow me to present to you my (hopefully successful) project of experimental archaeometallurgy, which I am writing my dissertation about. After 30+ burning cycles, ultimately ending in various degrees of failure, I introduce to you my very first buttons, created by the 'co-fusion' process: and weighing in at 40 grams: Meet my button 'A', rapidly cooled: And button B, cooled with the furnace: A sneak peak of the dendritic structure on sample 'A'. Button 'B' has unfortunately leaked a
    3 points
  48. Using different alloys to obtain different patterns..
    3 points
  49. And one more. Clay hardened C100 steel. 3.2mm thick at the bolster and has a convex distal taper to the tip. 60mm tall at the heel and a 22cm cutting edge. Handle is ebony, copper and mallee burl. On one hand I kind of want to spend a day rubbing it with lemon juice and polish but on the other I'm curious how it will end up with a natural patina with use Have one more to go before turning the focus to a bunch of outdoor knives and then maybe just maybe I'll have time for some of the swords that are strewn around the workshop
    3 points
  50. My very first hamon.
    3 points
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