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  1. Yesterday at our guild meeting I was honored by having this dragon turned over to me. I had admired it just after it's creation nearly 30 years ago. Some of you met Mike Rose at our recent Hammer in, he has made many dragons but this has always been my favorite. What a talented artist! Sorry it isn't sharp but I believe this community will appreciate the creativity. When the upload finishes on my slow connection, I have connected some photos into a clip .
    10 points
  2. OK, been here on this site only a month and have been pinging everyone for questions -- and I really appreciate all the help. So here is my 16th knife -- finished! I am my own worst critic because it isn't perfect, but thought I would post to show some of my work. The blade is 275 layer Damascus 1095/15N20 with a faint diamond pattern. Scales are G-10. I made all of the parts for this knife including a 1080 tempered lock spring. Fun build -- but man, this design of lock blades must be exact on the fit-up or the knife is total junk!
    9 points
  3. Got an order from a Pitmaster customer for a traditional Butcher (bull nose) knife. I'm making 2 one lighter about .223 mm at the heel the other .310 both about 8 inches. There Aeb-l with bolsters I cast out of a boat propeller. BTW one is sanded to 240.
    9 points
  4. Side project I did yesterday. Not knife related but thought some here would appreciate this. Each face is 0.625+/-0.007 inches and all angles are 90 degrees to as accurately as I can measure. Numbers are electro-etched. All done by hand (grinding). Why? To challenge myself; and I'm a gamer - can never have too many dice .
    8 points
  5. 8 points
  6. Thickness of the blade 1,7 mm. Very hard and sharp.
    8 points
  7. I don't know how interesting this is, but.. been working on a birthday present for the lady of the house this weekend.. I used a piece of 15n20 nickel steel and engraved a simple design in relief, with 24k gold inlay in the heart as well as four 0,03ct white diamonds around. Currently I'm working on the bail, which will be in 925 sterling silver. cut shape, drilled holes and bent it this morning before work. I have a silver chain left-over from the work I did last year, so I will use that for the necklace. 14 hours into it at this point. Have a nice week everyone!
    7 points
  8. I have forgotten how long ago this was….. it was a sword year at Ashokan…… the year Peter Johnson gave a talk at Ashokan….. I had been working on this seax ……months before the event I was pulling the handle off and this went flying ….. I heard it land ….I spent way too many hours looking for it and could have made a couple new ones in the time I wasted…. I gave up and the project got shelved… Yesterday I was looking for something else….I was wearing a head lamp to illuminate where I was looking …. My eyes swept over it and I looked back not believing what I saw …. There is was sitting on a roll of sandpaper under a shelf… right were it fell years ago… I suppose that is a sign that I now need to finish it…..
    6 points
  9. Finished this lil guy up today… Blade is 80CRV2, bronze guard and pin, and a whitetail antler crown
    6 points
  10. It's alive and heats up much faster than my modified copper/enamel kiln.
    5 points
  11. And another non-knife project I just finished last night. My brother likes wearing great kilts to ren-fairs and his wife wanted something to match the sgian dubh he had me make for her. I *offered* to make a Scottish dirk but she was a no-go on that idea. So we came up with this for his kilt. Took me 6 learning tries and making three special tools to get this done right. The joy of blacksmithing - need a tool - just make it! Stones get a bit lost in the picture, but live they really pop. Now it's back to knife making and increasing "inventory".
    5 points
  12. And since pics or it didn't happen, here you go: Amazing what shows up in the pics that doesn't in person, like the pivot pin is invisible in person, and the grain on the "ivory" is much more prominent in person... but this was a pretty harsh lighting situation. Scratches really pop and the grain got washed out. I may take some better ones after I fix some things. Speaking of, here's one that the owner has been waiting on patiently for a year or more for me to get out of my rut of failure on these little mini-barlows. Again, you can't see that scratchy spot on the bolster in person, but boy does it pop in the pics! Scales are Mediterranean briar burl, the stuff they make pipes out of. The issue was multiplicative error. Turns out that if you use a folder in progress as the pattern for the next, you get a slight increase in dimensions. After about five iterations of this, the tang is too big for the spring, which now doesn't have the tension to snap it closed. Only took me six failed ones to realize that. The steel for both of these is AEB-L, bolsters and pins are nickel silver. The ivory one has nickel silver liners, the other has brass liners. These have not been sharpened yet, so fixing the scratches will be much easier/safer than it could be.
    5 points
  13. 52100 / 420 SS with G10 handles and dovetailed stainless fittings
    5 points
  14. Still plugging along on these when I have time. I’m pretty behind on sheaths so that will be next! I originally wasn’t a big fan of an edge bar as opposed to sanmai, but this one may have changed my mind. I have plans for a larger broken back seax, I may prepare the material as a square edge bar. I decided to try out a leather wrap with no fittings, this seems like something that could have existed, as there are tons of grips with no fittings metal fittings and a few with signs of leather. It was a challenge, but I like the look and feel. I was able to skive the edges of this leather much thinner than the goat skin and get a real ragged edge. I also decided to add some risers, as the handle is on the smaller side. Pretty pleased with how it turned out, I have a lot of ideas about making more handles like this! Lines carved on the “back” like you see on a lot of examples.
    5 points
  15. Today was a lot of work and not without some frustration. I took the handle up to 800 grit, only to reveal a small interior crack in the ivory. Handle with some wax. Small crack Just to give a visual on this. Now you have a sneak peek at the patten. Yes, I etched the blade today. The photos aren't geat, so I have a little video of the etched blade. I also have a couple of pics of the blade and handle as of tonight. Tomorrow I will work on the peen block.
    5 points
  16. Hi guys, thought I'd share another little in-progress preview. Finally managed to complete the rear side of the guard, although I am waiting for final assembly before setting the stones... After those are set - there will be no oportunity to sand the surface again if I were to f up..: There's still allot of steel to engraved. Managed to start cutting the outlines for the borders that will go on that steel spacer marked "top". I now need to design the actual engravings that are to go inside those borders....
    5 points
  17. Channeling a Tibetan prayer wheel…….the symbol is a prayer for well being I think….. or something to do with good health or luck…. My memory fails…..
    4 points
  18. Now to remove the remaining oxydes with mother's mag polish.
    4 points
  19. That's Peter somebody-whose-name-escapes-me's Peter Wrong anvil. I played with it at Batson's in 2008: Or it could be a Hay-Flubber. The Peter Wrong shown above is made of thin sheet steel, the Hay-Flubbers are cast foam rubber painted anvil-colored. Both weigh about five pounds.
    4 points
  20. Hi I just finished one knife from the last picture, it is this small puukko with handle made of birch bark and antler. The blade is san mai from wrought iron and k720. Sheath is made of leather and it has a wooden core. I will add it to selling part of the forum too
    4 points
  21. Finally I've managed to get the two spacers finished. I've now started setting stones in the guard. I finished the rear side yesterday (after taking the pic above), and will continue setting the last two rubies on the front side today. In total there are now 8 0,03ct natural white diamonds as well as 8 natural red rubies in the blade and fittings. After setting the two last stones today, I will proceed to designing and engraving border patterns that are to go on the long-sides of the handle. There's still allot of steel to be engraved... And then I need to come up with some sort of design for the tang and pommel... I am considering putting a little piece of steel between the handle and the pommel nut - which I am considering just peening down... I'll cross that bridge when I get there. (note to self: finish complete designs before starting work... ) Have a wonderful week everyone!
    4 points
  22. I got the sheaths all wrapped up! I decided to redo the sheath for one of the broken back seaxes and I’m glad I did. The ornamentation is based on the back of some sheaths, I still need more practice before I could confidently base something off of the front. I also am working on a more ornamental rivet boss to use as a master for casting. And finally, another big one. This batch of hearth steel was very well behaved, I’m excited to see how it finished out! This is a seax styled after the Honeylane find, scaled up slightly.
    4 points
  23. That's one mighty slicer Garry On my side, I worked through some grits on this 7" bunka style in 26c3. I believe I made some improvement on hamon control on the steel again. PXL_20221114_203447593.TS~3.mp4
    4 points
  24. Well it’s finally finished!
    4 points
  25. Had to post this. Its a replica from call of duty. Client wanted one badly. I have to admit, first knife that made me laugh a couple times while making it. That ever happened to anyone else?
    4 points
  26. Cool, Y'all like Dragons, so here is one I did about the same age as Mike's. A door handle on our outbuilding.
    4 points
  27. 4 points
  28. The broad sax is now finished! It feels surprisingly agile for the width and thickness of the blade, possibly due to the long handle. I think I’ll use end caps on wrapped handles going forward. I also finally settled on a way to make these rivets. These are soldered together from rod and pattern wire. I also forged this kurzsaxe, I want to improve my groove scraping abilities, so this will hopefully have two narrow grooves on each side.
    3 points
  29. Knife # 900 I have a few days hunting organised for this month so decided it was time to retire my old standby Light hunter with the end grain olivewood handles so I made myself this Tahr Hunter with scolloped OD canvas micarta handle over blaze liners with lanyard tube on the 1075 blade with jimping.
    3 points
  30. This scissors is rust blued wrought iron, sitting on the bar it came from. I probably etched it in ferric before bluing. The parts get boiled to blacken the rust, so I don't know if it qualifies as cold bluing.
    3 points
  31. And the core starts to manifest itself under the grind. I will get some crystalic activity from the cladding too, I think, after the quench.
    3 points
  32. Stay away from those, and anything that looks like them.
    3 points
  33. I did finish the peen block, but today I totally screwed up the bronze brazed rod in the tang and need to make another one. Here is the handle with ornamentation dry fit on the blade. Side one Side 2 I wish I had noticed the fly swatter when taking these pics........
    3 points
  34. Where was I? It's been crazy lately, but I did get to work on a few items in the shop this weekend. I made a lot of adjustments to the handle and started thinking about embellishments. There's something about large smooth faces that irks me. So, I decided to do some Vendel period oculi carvings in that ivory. After making a little tool out of a scrap piece of 3/16" round rod, I laid out the positions and cut them with the tool in a hand rill. Smeared over the blue tape with some Fiebing's antique finish And removed the tape.
    3 points
  35. A few people have asked me about the articles I sent Aiden, so rather than continue using storage space for multiple PMs, here they are. I think I got most of them from Google Books, but they are all available for educational use/creative commons copyright. One of the most important bits of info is in the Technology of Medieval Jewelry, in which they state "casting as a technique of making finished objects is almost unheard of." Ingots and rods, yes. Other things, no. Building up from sheet and wire is by far the most common technique, and soldering is far more important than it is now. Anglo-Saxon jewelrywork.zip Fregni_The_Compleat_Metalsmith-libre.pdf The_Technology_of_Medieval_Jewelry.pdf The_wood_of_Merovingian_weaponry.pdf
    3 points
  36. For what its worth I've used this guide several times now, and it works wonderfully. If you're using a grinder I suggest a fresh 220g or a used 120g and go slow. check flatness frequently and don't over-grind. Even if one or two of the faces is slightly off it still makes a wonderful gift for friends or a way to spice up your nat-1 rolls...
    3 points
  37. Thanks, I had a great time, and in the end, I'm not sorry about not making the final. The Sengese was a nightmare. As the wise man says "Perfection is the enemy of Progress". Geoff
    3 points
  38. I met up with my old enemy, casting, in efforts to make seax sheath rivet bosses: Most if the defects came from disturbance to the sand due to removing the master and the long rod forming the shank/vent, so I hope to be able to fix that by making the mold a bit differently.
    3 points
  39. There is always a problem when working on longer blades with the depth of the water bucket so last couple of times I used a barrel but it takes so much water and more room at the grinder than I would like so I had a look at some buckets I had and a plan formed. There is the rim around the top and bottom of the bucket and it just so happened that the rim of the 2o liter bucket fitted snugly over the 10 liter bucket and with the bottom of the 20 liter bucket cut out there is a 20 -25mm overlap so will use a good grade of wet area silicone and put it together and add 4 small gutter bolts round it to ensure there is no pull against the silicone if I am shifting it by the handle. To make sure there is no danger of stabing through the bottom of the bucket I cut the bottom from the 20 liter bucket to fit as a protector to the bottom of the bucket with a couple of loops of light rope so it can be lifted out with any accunulated metal that comes from the grinder.
    3 points
  40. On the bench 3 whittling knives, a heavy hunter and3 buffalo skinners, 2 swords and a set of the K tip chef knives. The chef set has yet to be heat treated so is not ground yet.
    3 points
  41. Some hand sanding to do but I have bought a plunge platten from 84 Engineering so that should make for a bit of help in that regard.
    3 points
  42. I got a package yesterday too I'll be a leather working maniac now.
    3 points
  43. Thanks, all! Now onto wrapping up a few more. I tried out a lined sheath for this Iron Age style knife. My dog was not excited when he heard the trimmers! I think the liner needed to be shorn down closer, the stitching could use some work, and I got hide glue everywhere, so this one will be chalked up to practice. The incised decorations came out better than I thought they might though!
    3 points
  44. I made my first knife, all stock removal tho
    3 points
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