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  1. 11 points
    Finished this just this afternoon. Haven't put an edge on it yet, but just couldn't wait to show it off! Time for critiques.
  2. 10 points
    Forging the Blade The raw material for this blade spent most of the last century on a former homestead. A large portion of the steel was used for another blade, this was the piece cut from half of the left side. Slowly drying the clay for yaki-ire over the embers in the charcoal forge. After yaki-ire, an #80 grit Sun Tiger stone reveals the approximate hamon as the geometry is set. Habaki Habaki forged to shape in preparation for silver soldering in the charcoal forge. The habaki is textured with files and patinated using a blend of copper salts similar to rokusho. Ireko Saya A two part black buffalo horn (ura) and blond cow horn (omote) lock keeps the two halves aligned when joined. The omote half contains the edge entirely and has an oil collecting reservoir at the tip. The ura half does not contain the edge, keeping it entirely in the omote half. Kataki Tsuka & Saya The hardwood block is split and carved out to fit the ireko saya and the tang and then rejoined using sokui (rice paste glue). This wood is very hard on tools and they require frequent sharpening. Nori-urushi, a mixture of natural urushi lacquer and sokui is used to reinforce certain areas, particularly the koiguchi where the wood is thinner. Mixing the urushi and sokui along with a bit of extra water to help it cure inside the joint. It can take at least a month to fully cure nori-urushi inside a wood joint, more time is better for strength. After the nori-urushi is fully cured the tsuka and saya are shaped with kanna and smoothed with fine rasps and the horn mekugi peg is fitted. An antler crown and tip are used to form a very organic kurikata (栗形, a cord loop) and obidome (帯留, “belt stop”), usually called kaerizuno (返角, “turn-back horn”). The antler kurikata is fit to the saya using a carved sliding dovetail, with no room to spare! The kurikata slides in from one side and then tightens as it reaches the final position. The obidome has a tenon that fits into a mortise carved in the saya, again carved right to the ireko saya. The obidome/kaerizuno will be attached with sokui after the saya is lacquered. In preparation for lacquering, the open grain is cleared of dust using a stiff brush. Ready for fukiurushi, the thin layer of wiped on urushi will preserve the interesting surface texture of the wood. After the lacquer has cured the surface has become a rich, glossy dark chocolate colour. Polishing Once all the parts are made and fitted the blade can be taken through the final polishing stages using Japanese waterstones. The natural #700 used to remove the last of the arato/kongo-do stone scratches. Several stones later, hazuya and jizuya fingerstones made from flakes of uchigumori-do and narutaki-do koppa attached to washi paper with natural urushi are used to even the surface and add depth. This stage is very time consuming as is the uchigumori-do before it. The fine surface grain of the steel brought out by the uchigumori stone throws multiple colours in sunlight. Final Assembly A look at all the koshirae parts before assembly Antler kurikata and obidome attached using sokui and tapped into place with a small mallet. Inserting the ireko saya into the koshirae. Completed aikuchi koshirae. Furusato tanto forged from reclaimed antique steel. View of the spine with peaked iori mune. Macro detail of the interesting texture of the Tshikalakala wood pores.
  3. 10 points
    Hi all! After a long time I signed there because I made new knife which is available. It is small knife overall lenght is 22,5 cm, blade 10 cm and handle 12,5. Welded blade is forged from old, broken springs of agriculture machine and from the bearings. These springs I found unders old oaks on Kovalovec meadows. Guard is from patinated bronze and on handle is small patch of cow bone, which I found on the way to the Skalica hills. Last part I bought from my friend and it is Palisander Honduras burl wood. Hand sewn scandinavian type sheath with leather inserts in the blade part. Leather, knitted lanyard with small decoration from same wood as on handle. Price 370 USD with shipping. Paypal accepted. Contact on me: jakubpetras.noze@gmail.com
  4. 7 points
    A tomahawk I just finished for J.B the horse. Made in the Bat-wing style of the Western Great Plains. Hand forged rifle barrel head with diamond shaped eye, whitesmithed, pierce work, and copper dot inlays. Handle of Bodark, brass tacks and raw hide
  5. 7 points
  6. 6 points
    This is lhe latest colaberation knife made by myself and Petr Florianek. Inspired by saxon swords the 11" blade and handle are made by me and the carving and Sterling silver handle ornamentation is by Petr. going for the bling bling! Hope you like it.
  7. 6 points
    A little more progress: The tang end sticking out will be penned over. There are some weld flaws there but I don’t think they extend to where it will be peened. I plan on doing all the engraving before I put it all together. Now we are too the blank canvas stage. I get really nervous because one cut could ruin a lot of work... Getting the design right and then getting over that inertia for the engraving is the hard part.
  8. 6 points
    Recently finished this for a fella that laid out the specs and wanted it loosely based on other bowies I have made with a similar recurve. 10 inch blade forged from 80CRV2, coffee etch with mustard patina, stainless guard and buttcap, cocobollo handle. Thanks for looking, Clint
  9. 6 points
    Awesome! It would be cool if it was in the handle though........... Say you walk into a waffle house around 2am. The salty ol' waitress that didn't want to serve you throws your food down and says in a raspy new england accent "sorry sweetheart, we're out of syrup". So you narrow your eyes, spit a stream of tobacco juice on the floor, and rip a 7.5" knife from your hip without breaking eye contact, then remove a cap from the hilt dispensing maple syrup on your dried stack of bland food. Then you give it a lil twirl from the bucket hook and re-holster that bad boy in wild west fashion. Then, the Rob Halford doppelgangers tap your shoulder and.... Obviously just kidding btw
  10. 6 points
    Ucelemba - pronounced "xta-lemba" Zulu for cane knife or bush knife. Forged this one out yesterday and added a wood scabbard with raw hide covering. Blade is 5mm by 250mm with distal taper Thanks for looking
  11. 6 points
    So here she is after helping build the stand- gonna recess the anvil 1/2 inch and she will be ready to swing! Took us about 4 hours longer than doing the project by myself- but MAN- What a good day... Now on to build my stand and get this little chick SWINGING! Guys- sorry about the dad-bragging- but Im just stoked she wants to "play" and learn... not just cash out into the digital world... (and to be honest- it helps keep me wanting to "play" in the shop too!)
  12. 6 points
    Stainless kitchen knives off the grinder
  13. 6 points
    I haven't forged san mai in ten years. This was a piece of nickel plated mild steel with 1085 core. Handle is fire hardened bamboo with raw hide wrap. Hand forged in coal. Will do a raw hide sheath tomorrow Thanks for looking.
  14. 6 points
    Alright, this is just the second knife I'm going to sell that wasn't a commission so I'm requesting your help for pricing . Blade is 2" wide at heel and just shy of 10" long. Finished to 1500. Handle is 416SS, G10 and cocobolo.
  15. 6 points
    Michael Bergstrom, the talented film producer and bladesmith who generously provided the filming of AF 2016 has recently released new videos from that event. He added them to the announcement topic, but I thought I'd post a new topic so you all didn't miss them. For those of you that don't know, AF 2016 was in two parts. Each smith did a practical demonstration of technique, and another presentation on the theme of the event, Grendel's Hoard from Beowulf. The demo videos have been out for about a year. Michael is now working to release the thematic presentations. Here is a link to his youtube channel. Also, I've pasted below his announcement from the AF thread. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCONxF6KdMJN9ymPa2pT5S6A/videos Cheers! Dave Chapter 1-3 have been posted online with the demos, over the next week all the videos will be online as well as several profile/in depth videos and a doc about the giants sword construction. A couple hours of new videos have gone up. Next week will be never before seen content though. Available for streaming: Chapter 1: Panel Discussion (Group) Chapter 2: The Mother's Dagger (Peter Johnsson) Chapter 3: The Material Culture of the Spear Danes (Pete Florianek) Owen Bush: Forging the Pattern of Undertow Dave Stephens: Multi-Bar Pattern Welding Tips and Tricks Jake Powning: Carving Waxes for Lost Wax Casting Petr Florianek: Pressblech Techniques Peter Johnsson: Antler Forming with Heat and Steam Petr Florianek: Carving Antler with Rotary Tools J. Arthur Loose: Gilding Techniques Upcoming Releases: Chapter 4: Hilting a Giant's Sword (Jake Powning) (01/25/20) Chapter 5: Undertow, the Giant's Sword (Owen Bush) (01/25/20) Chapter 6: Hrunting, The Sword That Failed (Dave Stephens) (01/27/20) Chapter 7: The Lyre of Lejre (J.Arthur Loose) (1/28/20) Chapter 8: Closing Discussion (1/30/20) Artist Profile: Peter Johnsson (FEB) Artist Profile: J. Arthur Loose (FEB) Artist Profile: Petr Florianek (FEB) Artist Profile: Owen Bush (FEB) Artisr Profile: Jake Powning (FEB) Creating "Undertow: Bloody Ripper of Tides" Documentary (TBD) Enjoy on YouTube on Wild Dog Creative channel where there is a custom playlist for Arctic Fire.
  16. 5 points
    This a copy of an original 19th century Dagger style Spontoon tomahawk I finished recently. Forged from rifle barrel and 1084 steel with pierce work, whitesmithed, and an aged patina. Handle is black Walnut with fire checkering, incise carving, paint and brass tacks. Raw hide quirt with wool and glass beads. Handle is 23in, head it 14in
  17. 5 points
    I got the guard sanded, polished & heat blued today. I stopped the bluing short of a dark blue. (determined by temperature) I like a little purple mixed in with the blue.
  18. 5 points
    Well I have returned from a lovely holiday far away from a land of endless sunshine to my land full of rainy skies and gales” ( well at least this time of year with the wet season) On my return I had planned to finish a Seax sheath but I became distracted with the want for a handy edc I decided on a Puukko inspired blade just a bit thinner at the point and with a slight upward curve at the tip. I forged this blade from a USA made farriers rasp and finished it with files and sandpaper as there has been some discussion on the forum of late on this topic. I then water quenched it and tempered it in the oven. The bolster and end cap were made from copper and I decided on a stacked leather handle as it is my absolute favourite handle for a working hidden tang style knife. more pics to follow soon
  19. 5 points
    I got the blade I made at Gary's heat treated today. Here is a sneak peak at the pattern.
  20. 5 points
    Here are the finished pics I took today when it was not raining. I really enjoyed this build and will be making more such blades. Now..onto a Seax sheath.
  21. 5 points
    I get in this argument with smiths pretty often (less now that I've bailed on Facebook though). Way I see it, time is finite. Effort=time. Anything that reduces the amount of time/effort needed to complete a task, means I can spend that time/effort elsewhere. The older I get, the more I feel this way. And arguments about "cheating" just piss me off. Only people without good tools call it cheating.
  22. 5 points
    There's no such thing as too many tools, only too small a place in which to keep them.
  23. 5 points
    Got more work done on this 9.75" chef. The cocobolo appears clearer than last time I used it. It was from the same plank but shows different colors. I guess that's just how this wood is... Anyways, no tricky angled carving on this one, ergonomics first! And bolster was tricky enough
  24. 4 points
    Following the lead of one of my early role models, Daryl Meier, I found a new use for my Damascus drop offs. These two came from a cannister that I made earlier this year:
  25. 4 points
    It was a beautiful though cold day here in the Ozarks today, perfect for making steel. Here is a Damascus billet that I got to 252 layers and a squeeze done with some chevron ladder dies on it. While the steel was coming up to temp in the forge I also got five blades rough forged and ready for grinding. A good day! As I still haven't decided for sure just what to make from this billet, I think that I'll stop for the day and do some designing. (I should have enough steel for multiple blades.)
  26. 4 points
    Just so y’all don’t think I dropped from the face of the earth.... I’ve been working on the handle, sorry this is not much of a WIP, I am doing this in a completely different way than anything I have done before and every step is a series of experiments. Here’s a couple in progress shots. Josh, you will probably notice the tang changed quite a bit. I hope you don’t mind, I needed it to fit the curve of the handle. Also, you’ll notice it changed compared to my sketches up above. This is how it goes when you are using organic materials. The last picture is where I am at now. I have textured and sanded the first three parts (bolster, 1st piece of antler, and the first nickel-silver spacer). I shall press on.
  27. 4 points
    Hi all, here a Viking knife i make last summer. Blade from our friend Ondrey. Back from folded wrought iron, cutting edge from very sharp W5 Steel. The blade is 140mm long, 28mm high and 5.5mm thick by the handle. Handle from carved, 5000 years old bog Oak. Leather sheath with colored carving. Ruggero
  28. 4 points
    Here is the knife I made for myself. I broke off quite a bit of tip when trying to straighten it - we only had time for a 30 minute tempering cycle. I also did not have the right clay at the shop, so the hamon is not particularly inspired. However, it performed well against the purchases from the farmers market :-)
  29. 4 points
    This is a prototype of a new design I worked up to see if I could eliminate the 90-degree corner at the joint that is often left exposed with a slip-joint. I still have a lot of work to do on this prototype, but the parts are all fitted together, and the knife works well mechanically. I'm also working on making smaller and more space efficient knives. This one has a 2.5" blade and is just over 3" long when closed. I'm going to have to start thinning down the bone material I use for the scales. This knife is a bit thick for it's size. I'll post some more pics as I finish this up. My pattern is still a pencil sketch on this one. When I get it drawn on CAD, I'll post a pattern.
  30. 4 points
    This is meant to look like a WWII theater knife, something else rehandled like a Kbar. Forged L6, acid etched and stone tumbled. The fittings are all etched and tumbled mild with a bit of micarta thrown in. I'm not sure about the but cap or the cap nut. I'm still fussing with it.
  31. 4 points
    The pen is not mightier than the sword. The pen does not win battles, nor does the sword write poetry. Mighty is the hand which knows when to pick the pen and when to pick the sword.
  32. 4 points
    I've been thinking of it as a wolf, but it's hard to say for sure with this style of knot, so maybe it's better to just use the generic term 'beast'... Anyway, that's the carving pretty much done and the fittings etched:
  33. 4 points
    Knife all finished out. High grit sanding to 600g, and finished in danish oil. Copper polished on buffer. Sheath and sharpening on stones left to go. Tear drop hand shaped handled with balance point right on the bolster. Feel good in hand, three finger grip or pinch grip for some kitchen work. I think it meets the brief spot on. What's your thoughts?
  34. 4 points
    Sometimes I like to use big words which I dont fully understand to make myself sound more photosynthesis.
  35. 4 points
    I decided to cut the burl today so with the 9 1/2 inch makita "skill" saw I cut in from each side and finished up with the hand saw to start the breaking down process.There was a bit of to and froing from "skill saw to bench planer to bench saw to get it done but in the end I have it cut into managable pieces to continue the drying process. I put the moisture meter into the fresh cut side and found it is still very wet so will have to be at least another year till it is ready to break down further and then possibly another year to full dry before it can be used for knife handles.
  36. 4 points
    I got another presentation box finished and this one will go off to Illinois to my agent to show, along with some of my sample knives, round the various outlets he attends. I just have to get the Malon Labe symbol etched on the disc inlet into the knife handle and the grip set. While this box is lined in green, I have sample pieces to go in red, maroon and royal blue but the green went best with the ebony of this knife/grip set.
  37. 4 points
    I find it varies for me on what I am trying to do.. If I have done the preform exactly 100% correct the metal is accounted for to get that crisp corner of the blade at the ricasso and choil. But I have also found it depends on the anvil I'm working on.. I have not figured out how to fully incorporate the side shelf.. Sadly in this video I have been having to preheat the anvil as it's so cold and I won't work on a cold anvil in fear of damaging it.. Not sure if you have seen the video on Tapers.. the 4lbs taper video shows a pulling motion and this can pull out this area really cleanly.. But, yes I am with you and usually teach using the peen for getting in there and doing a nice clean job. Thanks, I don't do many videos on knife making.. I was asked the direct question by another smith so this video ended up on the list. With this preform aspect and pre curves you could be all set with just a little bit of figuring out. Ooohh,, you are opening a whole discussion on keeping things centered on a blade profile.. that is a great subject.. Excellent, practice at applying this "preform " idea to your work.. You will find your forgings will go better with less finish work.. I forge my blade edges to nearly 1/16" but if you account for a little extra material you could stop shy of this, heat treat, temper and grind.. It would put you way ahead.. All of the videos I make are to teach a skill set.. they are all designed to be watched a couple of times. then go and forge something applying the information, then watch the video again. then forge again.. 3 or 4 of these watch and forge cycles and the person will have a very good grasp on the skill set.. All of the videos are designed to teach a skill. they are not really about the item made..
  38. 4 points
    Hello. Not so long ago became the owner of this Viking spear. There are not many mentions of wolf teeth spears on the net. Perhaps this topic contains the largest number of images of such copies. And only thanks to this topic I understood what I'm dealing with. The spear was mechanically cleaned of oxides and etched pattern on the blade.
  39. 4 points
    Well here it is all done, I am happy with how this turned out in the end esp since it is my first sheath of this type and also my first go at leather tooling (thanks Josh). I have a confession....I had become a bit stale and board with making knives and I feel this has lit a fire again and inspired me to delve into the artist within me. I am really looking forward to my next project which will be a sheath for my pattern welded broken back seax. I also got some 90cm lengths of 15n20 and 1075 so this year I hope to get creative with my blades too. Thank you to all who have come along for the ride and for those who have posted invaluable info throughout this forum esp in history. Anyhow it is Friday night in Australia and I am about to crack a beer and light the BBQ. looking forward to any feedback etc. Oh...one more thing. I would appreciate any info/suggestions on your preferred suspension for this type of sheath as it might very well see active service on my bow hunts.
  40. 3 points
    I got the action settled into the wood today and made a start on the bottom metal.
  41. 3 points
    Just a little bit of progress today. I have to tell you that the dagger has been taken off the bench for a long while. It will take more time than I have to devote to it right now. I did make another W2 blade. It will be an EDC take-down. I just realized that I failed to take any photos of the forging or HT process, which is a shame. Anyway, I drew down the tang and took that to 320 grit today. Then I took that big camp knife, fitted a new guard to it (third try is the charm I guess), Drilled the blind pins for the spacer package and got it indexed to the Amboyna block. (I drilled and fit the block to the tang Sunday) I also sanded the blade to 600 grit on the disc and it's ready for handle shaping.
  42. 3 points
    It all worked out in the end. the areas of orange staining are darker, but no longer garish, and the handles are looking sweet and figured. pretty happy. might make a proper post about these knives later.
  43. 3 points
  44. 3 points
    Well once again I decided that I wasn't satisfied with the handle for this blade so I got started on making #3. I guess that I'm getting a little fussy in my old age but if it doesn't feel right, I'm not going to finish it. I went with a more traditional look this time which should appeal to a higher percentage of customers. Since I'm planning on taking this one to The Arkansas Show, that should be a good thing. Here are the components roughed out & ready for sand & polish:
  45. 3 points
    Here is the finished piece. I resized the skull crusher (actually made about three more) and went with a round pommel. All of the furniture is mild steel, acid etched, stone tumbled, and blued. I think it has the look I was after, like someone had seen a Kbar, but not really looked at it. Geoff
  46. 3 points
    I scratched the itch Ive had since I got a stablising set up, and ran a batch of OSB! ive paired it with 5000 year old bog oak, and a bit of white G10 for the spacer. Its defineatly a functional handle. just cant decide if its awful or not!
  47. 3 points
    Well, we've got woodcarvings, illustrations from manuscripts, and stone carvings that show this is how they were mounted, so there you go... The modern "Swedish" pattern is pretty much this same thing, only symmetrical top-to-bottom rather than one-sided.
  48. 3 points
    Sheath completed, a simply pocket sleeve. Hand saddle stitched and buffed with some paste wax. Simple and tidy. Stamped with Makers mark and blades serial number. Yep this makes blade 11 finished. That completes the build. Thanks so much for following and commenting.
  49. 3 points
    Been a while since last update. I keep forgetting to post up progress here. The heat treat went very well. I quenched to just below critical then straight into a straightening jig, 2 massive plates in the vice. Had only a very slight warp to the tip where the distal taper was. Then I had to torch temper the blade. This was a bit tricky, and I think I slightly over heated the blade in one spot, although I have found varying colour charts and sources that say different things about where this type of blade wants to be tempered to. next up was grinding the bevels and the fuller. The bevels went very well. Then came a real mistake from me. I should have done the fuller first, before the bevels. I also should have made a small wheel attachment for my 2x72 and not used the top idler wheel of the platen. Oh well, now I just have lots of clean up to do. I also test etched the blade Next I started forging out the swept hilt. Had to try and get a lot of weight out of the hilt after forging and here's where it is right now handle on, hilt in its final form and a rough pommel. Still tons of refining and polishing to go, but I'm happy. It feels great in the hand and I managed to get the weight down to 1.2kgs/ 2.6lbs which I think is acceptable. Thoughts?
  50. 3 points
    I've yet to do the final hand sanding & polishing to the hilt but all is now assembled:
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