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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/26/2019 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    After posting asking for help and advice in making my first knife (and realising I was in way over my head), I have finally finished it! Yes I have made mistakes along the way, and it took far longer than i could have ever guessed, but all that aside I am super pleased with how this has turned out. It has been a very steep learning curve, and now I want to do it again... Thanks to everyone who contributed to my original plea for help. I couldn't have done it without your input! Adam
  2. 6 points
    Finished this up a little while ago and thought it was worth showing. It started with half a broken chain hook which wanted to be a knife, but since a test chunk wouldn't harden it became a rather large guard instead. The end result is funky late medieval falchion - bowie hybrid which overall I was pretty happy with. Handle is blackwood and the sheath is laminated lacewood veneer dyed black, I got that idea here. The fittings and sheath were pretty time consuming, I almost wish I had put them on a sword. Interestingly everything on the knife is second hand materials, even the blackwood was salvage, a section off of a few logs found in an old machine shop before it was torn down. Thanks for looking!
  3. 5 points
    Alright, so from the same billet as my last knife - here is another one. Blade in folded and twisted railroad steel, in a san-mai lamination with Øberg-steel for the core. Handle in stabilized Maple, with spacers in brass and vulcanized fiber - with copper for the front. All feedback and critisism is, as always - most welcome. Chiao!
  4. 4 points
    Finished this yesterday ....Blade is 420 stainless and O1 laminate. Handle is brown canvas micarta and stainless corby bolts. Got to use my new stamp for the leather sheath and it turned out pretty nice ...,..
  5. 4 points
    Despite the bitter cold, I got this blade ground & H/T'ed yesterday and the first of the two damascus inlays made for the stainless pommel:
  6. 4 points
    Completed Hunters:
  7. 4 points
    I like to bevel the handle so it is slightly thinner at the bolsters than it is at the heel. The bevel (and all the rest of the finish sanding) is done on the 9" disc. To bevel the handle, you hold the knife in the center of the wheel. The outer edge of the wheel turns faster, and cuts harder, than the inside. I Start on the high part of the scale at the dovetail and grind a flat-ish plane between the front of the bolster and the heel of the handle. Then it's time to start rounding the scales for comfort. This is done on the top of the wheel. Here you can see the flat bevel on the left and the started rounding on the right. The rounding at 60, 150, & 220 grits is done on the hard disc. Then the profiles are taken to 400 (A45 Trizac gator) on the platen and the finger notch on the small wheel. Grits higher than 220 on the rounds are done on a rubber backed disc. The finger notch is also hand sanded to 400 grit to wash out any grind lines. I got one of these two done to 400 grit all around.
  8. 4 points
    Well, it ain’t pretty but it basically a Skew chisel that I made. It’s made to be very ergonomic to where I hold my fingers. I plan on doing more of a WIP type post on the whole engraving process when I start working on the knives...
  9. 4 points
    My latest foray into creative knife design led me to this creation. I wanted to design a knife that would be useful as a slicer and chopper of meat but also have a really bold aesthetic look. A classic Chef's knife simply wouldn't do on that front. I didn't just want to make a cleaver as I wanted a lightweight knife. So, after much scratching of heads and bad sketching on Anvils behold: ChickenBane! A fearsome blade whose silly name (suggested as a joke but too good not to keep) belies a near certainty that it will be ideal for precisely nothing except being really good looking. too light to be a cleaver, too clumsy to be a chef's knife, too curved to perfectly slice meat on a board but just right for posting on the internet. I think it will make a great herb chopper. A meticulously shaped handle of walnut, bone and horn that is curved underneath and faceted top and rear, all blended together into pleasing geometric shapes with precise meeting points of lines that will make any OCD sufferer (like me) relaxed. this handle has combined being slightly uncomfortable on the heel of the hand while slicing with being slightly too slim in the belly for good control when chopping. A triumph of form over function! A profiled front and spine reminiscent of an ancient galley prow looks graceful and flowing, but shows that while that shape might be great at slicing through waves, its probably not ideal for pushing through onions. So, a positive spin on a slightly failed experiment. wont be repeating this exact design. but then again it was a lot of fun to make and gosh i do like looking at it. In ChickenBane's defence, its not useless, It's straight as an arrow, has flawless twisted patterned steel (thanks Owen bush!) and sharp as a diamond. its just not particularly good at anything except posing.
  10. 4 points
    Took them out of the clamps and ran them through the disc sander... one of the antler pieces I used has alittle more porosity than I was hoping, not sure it will engrave very well... we will see I guess. I’m not going to rip it out of there at this point. Otherwise I think they look pretty good. I think I’m going to take the night off otherwise. Got some stuff to do and we’ve gotten close to 3 feet of new snow in the last couple days. So things are kind of a mess. Adam
  11. 4 points
    Just home from work, Got it unclamped and sanded on the disk grinder. I'm pretty satisfied. Now to see how much of the other two I can get done tonight. Adam
  12. 3 points
    Just to show that I don't always make just Bowies & daggers, here's some 4" hunters that I forged today from some left over damascus that I had in the shop. These will all get a walnut handle with 416 fittings in order to keep them as affordable as possible. I need to build a number of these before I re-open my public shop this spring as they don't often last very long. I've got them forged, normalized, rough ground, H/T'ed & ready for tempering.
  13. 3 points
    Hi folks, I've been a member here for a while but never really posted, just lurked in the background and read stuff. I'm a hobby maker in Scotland, been having a go on and off for around 20yrs. I've recently decided to get back into it after spreading myself a little thin with other hobbies. These are all leaf spring with furniture from stuff I had lying around. I would appreciate any and all feedback. What i do know is that my fit between the blade and guard could be better and I need a stamp or etch stencil for a mark. Thanks in advance. Chris
  14. 3 points
  15. 3 points
  16. 3 points
    My 16 year-old daughter forged her first blade today. She had to do a cultural immersion project for her Japanese class, so she made a kiridashi. We started off by making a hook so she could practice some hammer work, and then we got into forging the blade. We used 1" X 1/4" 1080. The blade is now in the tempering oven. I'm so proud of her. She did a great job for the first time ever swinging a hammer.
  17. 3 points
    I will you what Adam, I am impressed by all of this.
  18. 3 points
    Another quick night. Really didn’t do too much. Peened the tang and sanded the sheath for two of the knives. Not a lot of process pics because there’s not much explaining to do. I used the grinder to chamfer the edges of the sheath then sanded them to a semi polish. I also used a round file to put a groove around the neck - this helps solidify the wood leather transition. Size only allowed one, I think I was alittle ambitious to think I could fit two grooves like on my original drawing. I took the picture while holding them this time so people could get a little better reference on size. These are essentially ready for engraving which scares the crap out of me... I’ll leave you with a quick tour. BF6ED6AF-DC77-4451-B8FD-B5B4FF241602.MOV
  19. 3 points
    Hello colleagues, in this opportunity I bring you this chiquitin. San mai sheet, with recycled steel that was lying on the bottom. In the steel center 5160 and in the sides 1070, the rope made in deer, the leather cover worked by me. I hope you like it
  20. 3 points
    Hi Didnt made a new topic because this is the same old. Puukko. 80mm 80crv2 blade. Curly birch, reindeer horn and brass handle. Ornament in the sheath is reindeers ear mark witch belongs puukkos new owner. Thanks for watching
  21. 3 points
    Okay, I got the other two done tonight. If anyone has any tips on inlaying, please share. As I mentioned, this is my first attempt. Since I did three separate sheaths, by the third one I kinda had a system down so I figured I would do a more step by step post. If I'm posting way to many pictures, I hope the mods will let me know. First off, in another current thread it was recently mentioned that finger don't like belt grinders....... Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do, fortunately I finished with my fingerprints intact. After I got the edges roughly cut with the rotary tool (see previous post) and the remainder of the night involved hand tools, I figured I'd move my operation inside the house. Then the wife thinks I'm spending more time with her, and I'm getting something done. So while she watches her cop shows, I sit at the dining room table and make stuff. Here is the setup I built for this. I attached a music stand light to it so I have awesome lighting and I gotta admit, that ball vise is one of my favorite things. Step one, rough cutout, not quite to the edges with the rotary tool. Step two: hog out the middle. One side then the other. With a mildly curved gouge (seen in picture). Step three: I use my sharpest chisel and I cut right along the inside of the line, kinda deep stop cut. Step four: Now I can clean out to the edge from the inside out (I use a variety of chisels and a shallower gouge) Step Five: I keep messing with it, making tiny adjustments until it dry fits like this (man, pictures always make them look worse): Starting to resemble the drawing... More glue See ya next time. Adam
  22. 3 points
    This is past good and into awesome territory.
  23. 3 points
    At least four people per day still don't believe me, so one more time: NO NUMBERS. NO NICKNAMES. PERIOD.
  24. 3 points
    It's in Malim, T. and Hines, J., (1998). The Anglo-Saxon cemetery at Edix Hill (Barrington A), Cambridgeshire: excavations 1989--1991 and a summary catalogue of material from 19th century interventions. This has now been put online as a (legal) pdf, which you can download here: https://archaeologydataservice.ac.uk/library/browse/issue.xhtml?recordId=1075286&recordType=MonographSeries The metallurgy analysis of the spearheads starts on page 250. There are some great line drawings of the blade cross-sections, and a detailed discussion.
  25. 3 points
    The sheaths all came out of the clamps looking good and solid. I outline to the best of my ability where the inside cavity is... last thing I want to do is sand into one at this point. Then off to the grinder until it looks even. Two more. Next is the inlay... I have never done this before, and I don't really know how, so for me it is just make the piece of antler fit in the piece of wood. Seems simple enough. I started with the rotary tool and cut close to the line but not right on it. This gave me a starting point to work with my carving chisels and gouges. I wish I had a good method here to teach, but I honestly just keep removing really small bits of the wood that doesn't need to be there. I use a sharp point to get to the outline and use shallow gouge to get the middle out. I slightly undercut the edges, not only to make it fit easier but also to allow a recess for glue. Here it is at the end with the various tools I used to get the job done. It fit with no discernible gaps that I could tell. I roughed up the back of the inlay so the glue would hold. Then stuck a bunch of glue in there, clamped it up and back to watching glue dry. I honestly don't think I needed to clamp it, as soon as I stuck that thing in there is was darn near impossible to get out (even dry, before glue)... We shall see how clean I got it when I sand it down. Fingers crossed. That's enough for tonight... Adam
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