Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Hello everyone, I actually finished this knife a few months ago but haven´t gotten around taking pictures until recently. Seeing as this is the unofficial internet home of everything seaxy I figured I should show it on this forum. This seax has become quite special to me and it is the only knife that I am 100 percent certain I’ll never sell. When I first got an interest in blades and found this forum, like many others I’m certain was awestruck by the work of Petr Florianek, Jake Powning and Dave Delagardelle, and of course the many other excellent smiths/fiery beards on this forum. This forum taught me that a knife can be so much more than just a tool and can be an object filled with history, might and magic. Of course, as a loyal reader of this forum there would have to come a day that I would make a multibar seax. The blade of this seax was my first (and only) multibar Damascus blade was forged more than 4 years ago when I was seventeen. It is actually on my first Damascus blades and I was overjoyed and frankly surprised that almost all the welds are clean and the blade was structurally solid. I do not remember the exact steels I used but I believe there were old files, some mild steel and a few bandsaw blades involved. At the time I felt that I wasn’t good enough to make a handle fitting for a blade like this so I laid the blade aside and got to work on another project. Early this year I picked the blade back up and reground it (boy was I bad with a grinder 4 years ago.) I felt that my handling skills were up to par and the blade was re-polished. My heat treat is bad, there is a bit of a weld flaw in the blade, but I had grown quite attached to this blade that had laid aside in my bedroom so long and wanted to finish it anyway. I might have designed a dozen different handles but eventually I decided to go with the classic and very beautiful combination of fine silver wire and bog oak. My initial plan was to go for Viking style carving on the entire handle, but I liked the clean look so much and just put a carved face in the butt of the handle and some simple lines on the end. For the sheath there was no real other option than to go for the riveted Baltic style we all love. I considered silver fittings, but the cost made me go for nickel silver eventually. The rivets are copper. Having never made this type of sheath before I can’t say it came together without a fight, of course the last rivets on the tip piece had to bend and so the fittings are a bit more ‘’rustic’’ than intended. Needless to say, a few curses were thrown around my garage workshop. The leather sheath was my first attempt at actually tooling leather, and did go a lot smoother than expected. I found it very enjoyable and want to do more. The design for the tooling is inspired by some historic artefacts from the Viking age, although I can’t quite remember where I got them from, I have so many pictures on my computer that it gets quite impossible to trace anything. Thanks for reading, but above all, thanks for the inspiration to everyone that posts on this forum.
  2. 4 points
    This one is half ladder & half random: What do you think--Yea or Nay?
  3. 4 points
    This small Bowie has a 6 1/2" blade & is 11" OAL
  4. 3 points
    This is another one of my projects that started about 2 years ago, sat on the bench, got redesigned, made some progress, sat on the bench again, got redesigned again, and finally got finished. It's what Hancock calls a "3-finger knife" because of its size. This is a forged O-1 blade with nickel-silver fittings and sheep horn scales. A little more clean up on the pins, sharpening and a sheath, and this one is going to be on the table in 3 weeks. Blade: 3-5/16" by 11/16" by just shy of 1/8". OAL: 6-9/16" By far the smallest knife I have ever attempted. My hat is off to those folks who routinely make small fixed blades.
  5. 3 points
    Hello: Here is this last week's work..One worked and the others are what I call a pattern fail.. well.. as I have said before..experience is what you get when you don't get what you want so...while they turned out OK as a knife in general they are not what I wanted... Materials are 1095/L-6 and a small amount of meteoric iron.. Now the one that worked was the one I was sure wouldn't..that is the wavy feather pattern..THAT one did work and I think it came out pretty spiffy..I just wish I could make a longer piece cause a full length sword in this pattern would be totally unreal..It was a real PITA doing this pattern and I think I found a way that isn't so nerve wracking...More on this later once I work it out and get things sorted.. Hope these pics work.. This old man is back to work... JPH
  6. 3 points
    Hot off the anvil, an integral petit chef out of 9/16" round 52100. This is as-forged, no abrasive or saw has touched it yet. 4.5" blade, 9" overall. Note this is the tang end pointing at the camera.
  7. 3 points
    Hi All Pattern welded hunter, 275 layer lignum vitae wood handle with coin bronze fittings. Total length 25cm, blade 13 cm Wishing you all a very Merry X-Mass
  8. 3 points
    And here we have the ol' seax all wrapped up; epoxy curing. Looks like I'll get to unwrap this tomorrow morning as an early Christmas gift! The handle looks small in this pic, but it's 23 cm (somewhere around 9.5") long. The blade is 21 1/2 inches. I tried a piece of oak that was really old firewood but it cracked . I remembered me and a buddy had cut some white ash about 4 years ago to make handles and he let me have a piece. It drilled well and I burned the tang in to fit it just right after brooching. It all went very well. The balance is a few inches up the blade. It feels very aggressive.
  9. 3 points
    Hello fellow smiths, I have something new to show you. It is not that new as I actually already finished it in May, but I am just now getting around to posting it online. It gets a bit cold in the workshop in December, so this is the perfect month to photograph and post some knives which I have made during the year. This is the first integral knife that I finished, it was forged from a piece of low layer o2/75Ni8 Damascus that was actually made for Damascus rings but I had a leftover piece just big enough for this knife. The handle is ebony with a nickel silver pin, it was all carved with rasps and files to a somewhat unconventional but surprisingly comfortable shape. The sheath is hand stitched leather with a reversible belt loop for right- and left-handed people I did not have a clear purpose in mind when I designed this knife, I just wanted to go for flowing lines and unconventional shapes. The knife turned out very pointy and stab oriented so I think I am calling it a fantasy dirk. Weight: 142grams Spine thickness: 3.5mm Height: 23mm Edge Length: 174mm Handle Length: 95mm (without bolster) Overall Length: 290mm I’ll show a few progress pictures and of course some beauty shots.
  10. 3 points
    Completed a copper bolster for a 7" chef in 80CrV2. The angled shoulders sure made this interesting, for a moment I thought I had bit more than I could chew but they say you have to push your limits so did I...
  11. 3 points
    It's real. Pre-Viking is a bit of an odd way to describe it. It's also pre-Vendel, pre-Roman, pre-iron age.
  12. 3 points
    Knife forged from 5160 steel, recycled, guard forged entirely, rope worked in wood and detail of stag horn with bronze. Cow leather cowhide, handcrafted. He named it the knife, by the style that was used in the war of American cessation. The leaf measures 37 cm, full measures 50 cm long. I hope you like it! greetings from Intendente Alvear, Argentina Lisandro
  13. 3 points
    My 14 year old son started watching forged in fire and caught the bug this last summer. While I was at work he went out and bought an old, frozen hand crank champion blower and forge for a couple hundred bucks he had saved up. I told him if he got it running I would let him use my old (Trenton 190ish pound early 1900s) anvil. Well he got it running and built an open air forge in the front yard.... and stole my anvil. For some reason I don’t have any finished pics, but here he is building it. Now that winter has come this will be surrounded with 3-4 feet of snow and I work at my real job from dark to dark. I wanted a small anvil for the garage so I can continue to work through the cold winter months. I bought a 4x4 (10 inches long) anvil from Old World Anvils, trimmed down a stump my dad had laying on his property and made up this concoction... the anvil sets down into the stump about 4 inches and is set in 100% silicon at the base then I used shims to wedge it in there pretty tight. Seems pretty small with all you guys running big power hammers on here, but it lets me work in the middle of the night so I’m pretty excited...
  14. 3 points
    So this is a sort of WIP now that I am working on the sheath in earnest. I did the forming of the leather in 8oz veg tanned leather I got from Tandy and did the gluing and 'clamping' all with my hands. I generally use Titebond original to do my glued seams and one of the advantages is that it sets rather quickly, allowing me to do the work with just clean hands and no real clamps. The following morning I was greeted by this: Next was finding the elements I needed for the sheath. Following the moonlight theme we had established so far, the client and I decided to go with silver fittings for the sheath. I then set about finding the correct pieces. I found a 'waffle pattern' piece of silver which was the perfect thing. I am basing most of the work for this sheath off of Gotlandic style pieces so I had to create the little U shaped pieces somehow, and when close to 50 of them are involved, I decided my time would be best spent doing something other than chiseling them one by one. I bought 18 inches of the stuff, and though expensive it is far cheaper than me spending the time to chisel each and every line in. So I began with my trusty jewelers saw and began to cut all 50 of these pieces loose. The belt grinder wasn't wired yet and so I had to do all of the clean up by hand with some sand paper, which was odious work. Thankfully though it looks great! These little things worked out better than I could have hoped. I bent each one carefully around a round file that happened to be the right diameter for the thickness of my leather. Tha So now that my gamble with the silver patterned sheet had paid off, it was time to begin the tooling! I took inspiration form the Bamburg Casket and adapted some of the design work seen on the casket for leather. Once I had a rough sketch I sent it to the client for approval and we were off to the races! I started the leather work the way I generally do, which is with the frame for the work to fall into, and then with a light tracing of all of the details. I used the drawing which was 1:1 to trace the lines onto the leather. Here you can see I've actually begun to do some of the detail work near the bottom. And here are the tools I used for the whole thing. A small metal burnishing tool and a dot punch. I do all of my tooling with that burnishing tool, having taught myself how to do the work with it. I'm sure there are better tools for that sort of work, but why fix something unbroken? Little by little the work progressed. I began to measure my progress in terms of episodes of Frasier watched. This is something like 6 episodes in. And this is where I'll leave it for now! This week I will finish the tooling, including the section where the grip goes, dye the leather, and begin to fit the silver pieces into place permanently. Hope you all enjoy!
  15. 3 points
    Oh yea. Plenty for that. Planned on it actually. It was a happy accident. Shortly after these were made, i was approached by a student at a lab in Canada who wanted to write up a report on the strength of interdendritic regions to the overall blade. I and 2 other people from different areas of the world sent samples of material to be looked at through an SEM (Scanning Electron Microscope), regular metallurgical optical scopes, and a mass spectrometer. I typically cut windows from each crucible puck, which was another happy coincidence because i was able to send one set pf samples that contained a chunk from the puck, a piece of the bar after spheroidizing, and a piece of a blade from that bar. Another bag contained a previous run where from my understanding of what was going on, crossed the 2% C threshold. I sent a sample of the puck and thr bar i forged following. I even sent folded samples of my orishigane. I felt it was relavent since that is what i use as feed material for my.crucibles to begin with. The really cool thing there will be finding out carbom content in a 4 fold and 9 fold sample. It will give me a good idea on how well i retain carbon on my process. It will also show me if my findings all this time are true or not in relation to removing Mn from steel in the hearth process. I suspect it does. All of my hearth steel and even this crucible steel reveal to me that despite the original steel to be melted at the very beginning (the hearth) having .8% Mn, that the hearth seperates it in the slag/silica. I have never made a deep hardening sample of orishigane to date. A full report will be written and submitted to me in January.
  16. 3 points
    the best hack I have heard of for museums (cant remember who told me though) is to attatch two lazer pointers to trammel arms on a ruler (lazers set parallel) to get accurate length and width measurements through glass! I would love to see the reaction from museum staff.....you would need mission impossable music ...
  17. 3 points
    After the metal parts it was time for the handle itself, the grip core is made from birch wood as I did not have any access to traditional magnolia(honoki) and the wood can not be seen on the grip anyway. The handle was split into two and carved to fit the tang, with a special chisel I had to make for this purpose, known as a Saya nomi which is curved for clearance. Since I made this chisel, I have used it a lot for other things as it just is a really handy shape. The grip is glued together again and carved to tightly fit the fuchi and kashira, at first I forgot to carve the space for the ray skin wrap so I had to carve and rasp all over again. I used carving knives, chisels and my amazing Liogier hand cut rasp, which is probably the best gift I have ever given myself. The handle was given a slight hourglass shape and the characteristic notch was cut in one side, this notch is traditionally meant to fit a knot in the silk handle wrap, but is also often found in unwrapped handles, I find it gives a great place to rest your pinkie when gripping the handle and it just plain looks cool. A small hole is now drilled in the tang and handle, and enlarged with a homemade tapered drill bit to eventually fit the tapered pin that holds the handle together. The handle is then wrapped in stingray leather, the traditional material is stingray rawhide, but I could not find any at a reasonable price and the leather worked great, even though it is an absolute nightmare to cut. I eventually had to resort to sanding the edge to get straight lines. It does however give a superb grip and feel to a handle, and I want to use it a lot more in the future. After this the blade could be test assembled with a wooden pin and everything fitted alright although there are still some very slight rattles, I will do better on the next tanto, but I decided to press on and finish the blade even if it was not totally perfect. Now it was time to move on to the sheath. In hindsight I know now that the sheath should be made together with the handle to form a seamless pair, but I only found that out halfway through, so the sheath and handle don’t match perfectly. The sheath was split and carved similar to the grip core, although the sheath should only grip the blade at the habaki and spine and not touch the blade anywhere else. Sadly, now that the blade is finished the sheath is just a bit too loose, I might fix it with some paper shims in the future. After the sheath was glued together and roughly shaped It was time for the horn fittings on the end and on the mouth of the sheath, these were all cut from a piece of buffalo horn and glued on with some very small locating pins to keep them aligned and stronger against shock load. The last part was to carve the kurigata, the horn piece that holds the cord on which the blade is secured to the traditional Japanese belt or obi. This was also carved from buffalo horn and glued in a dovetail cut in the sheath. The tapered pin that holds it all together was also carved from the same buffalo horn. Sadly, the finish on the sheath turned out a bit blotchy and picked up some black pigment form somewhere, that stained around the mouth of the scabbard. Now it was time for final sharpening and assembly of the blade, it all goes together quite well although not good enough to sell, I will keep it for myself but I am certain that I will return to the Japanese blade in the future. I already have some sketches of a more traditional hira zukuri tanto with a shirasaya style mounting lying around somewhere… And now for some more glamorous pictures of the knife taken with a real camera, my cat seems to like it. Thanks for reading, I am open for any praise/questions/critique
  18. 2 points
    Two little Damascus hidden Tang knives. Ready for fittings and handles
  19. 2 points
    You can also use new jigsaw blades. They are thinner in profile, and razor sharp. You can get the 2 pack of spider brands for $8 at Lowe's they're pretty great. They are double sided with a crosscut pattern on one side and a less aggressive side as well. To handle them you can just drill about a 1/4" hole in a piece of maple and drive it in with a hammer. Takes about 5 mins! The saws all blades are great for longer reach though. You may find that you need to grind most of the back away in order to get into the hole better. Good luck!
  20. 2 points
    Don't underestimate the homogeneous RR spike knife. Some of them have the magical ability to stop an army tank.
  21. 2 points
    Not entirely too big of a deal lol. I'll work around it. This knife remember was never meant to be perfect in anyway shape or form. Also I broke another rule, I also think I got some of the epoxy on the spine of the knife on accident as well. I made so many mistakes with this go around not even funny. I now know what has to be done in this process. I've got two more to get through to learn that's shaping the scales and polishing the scales before I can move on to the next. They should be cured enough to work on in a couple of hours. But but mostly this knife was the learning experience knife not meant to be perfect.
  22. 2 points
    Here is another "Moose Hunter" - forged from the same billet as my previous one found HERE. These two knives are for a moose hunting couple who are about to get married. So, these are their wedding-knives. :) As always - any and all comments and criticisms are more than welcome. :) Sincerely, Alveprins.
  23. 2 points
    I've said it before, I love your period style Bowies of more practical scale.
  24. 2 points
    Still lots of beasts, just more abstract. Not that it matters, Jeroen will tell you no carved seax handle has ever been found anyway...
  25. 2 points
    This summer marked the 5th year where I have spent my spare time forging blades, I think I have gained a fairly good grasp on the making of knives and simple Damascus and am quite happy with the quality of work I can make now. However, I am a firm believer in always raising the bar and once in a while I think it is a good idea to raise myself a real challenge. This summer I found myself with 6 weeks of summer vacation, one of the perks of being a student I suppose. So, I decided to build a tanto with the traditional mountings that come apart with a single pin. I had never attempted to make a takedown before, the wooden sheath, habaki, leather wrap and basically everything else was new to me, but I figured I had plenty of time and willpower to muscle through. To make things simultaneously harder and easier for myself I decided to do all the work with hand tools. I think finding the ´´zen´´ of working with hand tools is a great way to honour the traditions of bladesmithing and also it makes you much more connected with the blade you are crafting. As an added bonus I am a lot less likely to make a fatal mistake with files instead of a grinder. It will probably be no great surprise for the bladesmithsforum veterans that my main inspiration for this project was the work of Dave Friesen and his phenomenal website: islandblacksmith.com. On this site every step of the process is clearly explained and beautifully photographed, so there was really no excuse not to try it myself. I tried to shoot many pictures of the process, both for myself and to post them on my Instagram page and here on the forum. They are just cell phone pictures and are in no way meant to be a complete tutorial or anything, more of a documentation of my efforts, If you are interested in trying this yourself I suggest you check out the website of Dave Friesen, for the making of Japanese fittings I suggest everyone check out Ford Hallam’s ‘’ironbrush’’ forum, the absolute best place to find anything involving Japanese metalwork, with a great emphasis on the art, tradition and hard work that goes into that craft. Before this project started, I had already forged a san mai (three layer) billet of 1095 steel with beautiful wrought iron sides, this billet was initially a test to see how the iron forgewelded, but it proved to be about the right size for this tanto. I started with the forging of the blade, at this point I did not have a complete plan of what I wanted to make, I knew that I wanted a thick blade with a shinogi zukuri cross section but that was about it. Unfortunately, there was a big delamination in the wrought iron, so the tang was a bit shorter than ideal, but I figured it would still work out. As all the work was to be done with files, I forged the blade close to the final shape, I am quite proud how even the bevels turned out, although this is a lot easier on a 7mm thick blade than say on a thin kitchen knife. After the forging was done, it was time to break out the files, nothing too exciting, I just clamped the blade in my sen-dai, and spend some hours. At this point the bevelled spine and the edge notches are also defined. Because two thirds of the blade is wrought iron, filing was actually really enjoyable. After filing it was time for hardening, I break all the edges with a file before heat treat but I have never found the need to sand any higher, on normal blades I quench with a 46-grit finish with broken edges and I haven’t broken a blade in the quench yet. The tanto blade was hardened in canola oil, as the blade construction wasn’t traditional anyway and I didn’t really desire a Hamon. On my next tanto I will probably skip the wrought iron and attempt a Hamon on folded 1095 steel. I do not have pictures of this, but after heat treat het blade was first thinned out with files, which was relatively painless due to the wrought iron, and then shaped to a rounded zero edge with synthetic waterstones. (I believe the Japanese term is niku? On western blades you would call it an Appleseed edge.) With the blade shaped to final dimensions but not yet polished, about 180 grit I believe, I started on the habaki, as it needs to be forged around the blade. The habaki was forged from copper with a small copper wedge silver soldered in: the machigane. It took me a few ties to get a habaki that was usable, although as I later found out, my machigane was a little bit too thin after filing which makes the habaki a bit loose on the finished blade. I will do better next time. The habaki was a lot more difficult than I expected, and the shape is actually really complex as I wanted it to flow naturally from the blade’s lines, it took me a few days with a file and some very careful sanding to get all the lines lined up with the spine ridges and shape of the blade. After the habaki was fitted it was time for the ever-present sanding, this blade I sanded higher than I normally would, to about 1200 grit to show the best of the grain in the wrought iron, as the blade aged it really got a nice subtle texture which I really like. Now that the blade and habaki were done, it was time to start on the handle, although not very traditional for this size of tanto I also wanted to make a tsuba, I did a rough design of the handle and decided I would do a ray skin wrap with no silk overwrap and would also make a copper fuchi and kashira. The tsuba was forged from wrought iron that I had to laminate because I did not have a big enough piece. I believe this wrought iron came from fellow bladesmithsforum member Kris Lipinski, it really is quite lovely in grain and texture. The tsuba was first forged hot and then further refined by cold forging, I used textured hammers to create a kind of stone texture that I think turned out great. However, it still pales in comparison to the textures found on antique tsuba, in the future I really want to experiment more with traditional finishes and patinas. The tsuba was cut out with a jeweller saw, I first wanted to do some cut-out designs, but I think it would have made the design a bit too busy and decided the texture would be enough. The hole in the tsuba is sawn oversized for the blade and copper inserts are fitted on the top and bottom to fit the blade without damaging the blade. I believe these inserts are called seki-gane. Brass seppa or spacers were cut to fit on both sides of the tsuba, these are relatively straightforward although I did bevel the sides to create a more pleasing flow of lines. After this it was time to make the fuchi, this is made from two pieces of copper: a long strip bent into an oval and silver soldered, and a cap piece with a hole cut-out for the tang, all the copper for this was forged from bus bar as I did not have any sheet thick enough and I sadly don’t own a rolling mill yet. Creating the shape into a nice even oval was the most difficult part although I managed to even it out with a file later, the fuchi’s shape is also tapered from front to back to give the handle a bit of an hourglass shape. After this the kashira was shaped, the kashira is most often formed from a single piece of sheet that is punched through a special die, so naturally I had to make the die first, this is just mild steel with a matching hickory punch. The copper is oversized a bit and frequently annealed until driven through. The die is just a bit too big for tanto fittings actually, so I will make one smaller in the future, but for this blade, and with a bit of corrective filing the kashira turned out alright. As the handle was not to be wrapped with silk lace, I did not put any cord holes (himotoshi) in the kashira.
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?

    Sign Up
×