Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/15/2020 in Posts

  1. 11 points
    Finished another folder. Little bitty bugger, 2.5" / 63mm closed, 4.5" / 112mm open. O-1, brass liners, nickel silver bolsters and pins, ebony scales. Still needs an edge and some cleanup, but it's assembled.
  2. 8 points
    Howdy, folks. Been a busy, productive year, and not as much time has been spent on forums as I used to. But I have had a couple of interesting projects I wanted to share. They are the two largest carcass splitters I've made so far, one completed in February and one in August. The first was a commission from a chef who owns multiple restaurants who wanted as large a carcass splitter as I could make as a gift for a friend of his. The second was a commission from a fellow who butchers a lot of hogs. Both started out as bars of 5/16" x 4" 80CrV2 steel, and both ended up with hemp cord over neoprene handle wraps and Boltaron sheaths. And both were hair-shaving sharp when shipped. The first one was forged as close to shape as possible with my power hammer, with only minimal cleanup grinding along the edge profile before grinding and filing the bevel to final dimensions. It ended up with a blade just under 20" long, 5 3/4" wide at the widest, 41 1/4" overall length, and a weight of 8.22 pounds, a good 3 pounds more than my previous largest carcass splitter. csp03 by James Helm, on Flickr csp04 by James Helm, on Flickr In comparison with a "small" carcass splitter that is more like a 15" blade, 15" tang, and around 4 lb weight, and with a 6' 2" Sasquatch for scale. csp01 by James Helm, on Flickr The second one was forged as close to final dimensions as I could on my power hammer, but the end was trimmed and the spine had minimal cleanup grinding. It isn't quite as wide, but is larger in all other ways at just over 20" blade length, 5 1/2" wide, and 44" overall lenth, with a weight just over 9 pounds. cs01 by James Helm, on Flickr cs02 by James Helm, on Flickr It picked up some extra texture from sitting a few days in a mixture of vinegar that had more 30% acidity in it than I realized (most of the mixture was 9% or 5%). Usually the vinegar eats the scale off without affecting the steel; this time it definitely added texture. cs03 by James Helm, on Flickr In comparison with a 15" bladed bush sword that weighed just under 1.33 lbs prior to stock removal: cs11 by James Helm, on Flickr Sasquatch for scale. cs06 by James Helm, on Flickr Gotta say, it does nothing to help you hitch hike, even if you show a little leg! I had just finished demonstrating how it could shave hair, too! cs04 by James Helm, on Flickr More details, process video and pics, and general silliness in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SrEF1P5Qdh8
  3. 8 points
    Hi everyone, Though't I'd throw this one out there... Finished it during my "summer vacation" - effectively canceled thanks to Mr. Covid-19.... Long story short though. I've got a colleague of sorts who has helped me quite a bit throughout my career, and as he is leaving due to retirement, I thought he'd need something for his future free time in the wild. I give you "The Knuckle" - which incidentally is his nickname through many years in the industry. Blade is in a san-mai lamination with tool-steel for the core, and the folded steel is a mixture of tool-steel and jet-engine super-alloy which I've yet to identify. Handle is in buckeye burl, with copper bolster, brass and vulcanized fiber spacers. I decided to leave the blade a bit "raw" as it were, as this colleague of mine is both rough and sharp. I thought it fitting that the blade reflects his personality. Only thing that I am not satisfied with is the placement of the plaque on the sheath. It feels... I don't know... "out of place" to me... But.. lesson for the future I guess. A current knife I'm working on has a similar plaque in the middle of the sheath, although in that case I've made the sheath symmetrical even though the knife itself is single edged... Oh, and I decided to put my "logo" on the butt of the knife in this case. I doubt my etching would have penetrated the scales left on the body of the blade. The logo is basically my initials engraved into the wood and filled in with a copper-epoxy mixture. I am pretty happy with it. Anyhow, that's all for now. :) Chiao!
  4. 7 points
    Hi All This knife was made for a presentation unfortunately due to Covid it was postponed to a later date. It had to have a New Zealand flavour The handle is made from New Zealand Native Pohutukawa and fittings are made from sterling silver and coin bronze, (NZ one and two cents coins) The pommel is set with a New Zealand Greenstone The total length of the knife is, 27.5 cm. the blade measures 14 cm.
  5. 7 points
    I made a pretty big billet of damascus ad I wanted to make a few blades out of it and this is the first one from that steel. I kind of wanted to try out making smaller and simpler knives than I usually want to do, something more practical for the modern world I guess. The blade is 45 layers and just about 11cm long and has full flat grinds as originally I was planning to make an even simpler migration era style handle. Copper bolster and butt plate and walnut handle. Still thinking about what style of sheath I should make for it so won't sharpen it for now
  6. 7 points
    Hi all, Here is a batch of lockdown projects just finished. These are all late medieval style eating knives and sheaths. The blades are all just very simple designs forged from 1075+cr, with as close to a flat grind as I could get. The handles are a mixture of apple, laburnum, yew and walnut, with brass pins and bolsters, and the sheaths are all inspired to some degree by originals from 'knives and scabbards', though not exact copies. Since making the blades I have acquired a lot more reference for this kind of knife, and in retrospect they are a little broad bladed so will be tweaking the proportions for the next lot. Also looks like the brass bolsters are more commonly bent sheet rather than the blocks I have used here. Obviously not the same calibre as the incredible pattern welded swords and so forth that are posted here, but it was a good noob learning curve making a batch of knives like this, and I hope you like them. Cheers! Alex
  7. 7 points
    hello, One of the last finished projects. Copy of javelin head from Wielbark culture from Rozwadów, Poland. Hand forged from carbon steel with brass inlays. Wings are forge welded to the socket. Copy of spearhead from Wielbark culture from Zadowice, Poland. Hand forged from carbon steel with brass inlays. Thank you Jacek
  8. 5 points
  9. 5 points
    I have (mostly) finished the hammer. I say mostly because as I was taking these pictures, I noticed I have a bit of clean up to do on the bevels on the face, as well as one more coat of tung oil. Final pictures:
  10. 5 points
    Today I spent some time reworking a guard from a knife I did a few years ago. It always wanted to have scalloped (some call it clamshell) file work. Step 1 Step 2 Step 3
  11. 4 points
    Hi I would like to present my new tutorial about how to forge the "Slavic" type cap axe. The cap forging technique I used is one of the many. It is not copy of specific archaeological fond but rather an inspiration of axe from Pien (Poland). Enjoy watching :-)
  12. 4 points
    There is a few areas of concern but I'm going to keep at it and hope for the best.
  13. 4 points
    I got some pins installed in the hollow cap, and the matching holes in the upper guard. Now I can hold the knife sideways without the pommel cap falling off
  14. 4 points
    Doing my first WIP. It’s not a knife, but hopefully you will enjoy it all the same. First, thanks to those who suggested metal combinations for this project. Second, a bit of background. My brother-in-law is a geologist and an avid fossil hunter. I got to thinking that he might think a Damascus rock hammer would be a pretty cool Christmas present; thus was born the idea. Based on the previous mentioned suggestions, as well as the design idea I had, the initial stack of steel. The order is: 15N20 (0.12) 8670 (0.084) 80CrV2 (0.032) 8670 (0.084) 15N20 (0.064) 8670 (0.084) 15N20 (0.064) 8670 (0.084) 80CrV2 (0.032) Repeat twice more 80CrV2 (0.032) 8670 (0.084) 15N20 (0.12) for a total of 23 layers. The idea was to have a majority of the steel the ultra-tough 8670 (which would hopefully etch gray), then an almost as tough shiny highlight layer of 15N20, and a final thin dark contrast layer of 80CrV2. The numbers in ( ) are the initial thickness of the given layers. I made the outer layers of 15N20 thicker to protect the billet during weld up and to account for scale loss. The initial width was 1.5 inches. Initial heating of billet. Billet welded and drawn to 1.25 inches square. Was using my thermocouple to check the temperature of my new and improved forge (Thanks Geoff for your pinned topic on blown forges!). Got to 2500F and was still going up! Was actually seeing the outer most layer appear to start to bubble. And I know it was the metal because I fluxless weld… Billet rounded to 1.125 and ready for twisting. I unfortunately didn’t get any pictures of the twisting. Twisting a 1.125 inch diameter bar was a real pain. It took 6 heats to get 2 full twists as I stopped well before cooling below bright red. During this I learned a few things that I will incorporate into the next time I do this. The main thing I learned was that, on this bar, I forged down a tip on one end of it to make it a bit smaller to “get a better grip on it for twisting”. What I learned (as people who have done this more than me probably already surmised), is you want to keep the billet as close to even as possible. The smaller tip twisted much faster than the rest of the bar and I eventually twisted it off. A complete waste of material… Round twisted bar drawn out to 1 x 7/8 and ready for punching. Eye hand punched with plug. I was surprised how fast and easy this was. The homemade punch. Just a ¾ round of H13 ground down to the shape I wanted. No heat treat. Worked an absolute dream. Still going to have to make a punch for use on my press though… Eye drifted and hammer rough forged to shape. Rough ground to 120 grit, ready for heat treat. Had to do the obligate “quick and dirty” dunk in the etch tank. The pictures don’t show it very well, but the theory for the stack up worked exactly as I had hoped – Gray body with bright and dark banding. The issue and things I have learned. First obvious issue is the eye. It deformed a bit during punching, and I was never able to get it really worked back out. Second (and this will probably help with the first issue) is I shouldn’t have forged it quite so close to final size before punching. After the forging to shape and grinding, it is a bit smaller in dimension than I was shooting for. Third (as already mentioned), twist full size. Dimensions are: Weight: 12 ounces Head width: 5/8 inches (was shooting for 3/4) Head height: 3/4 inches (was shooting for 7/8) Total length: 8.5 inches Planning on heat treating this weekend and putting a handle on it. Also planning to make a second, larger one for my brother-in-law. My wife (who also loves collecting fossils - has to be genetic...), has already claimed this “perfect for me” sized hammer. Will post final pictures as soon as I get them.
  15. 4 points
    My latest, a W1 integral. I've been really enjoying the process of producing a hamon, and refining my technique aiming for better results each time.
  16. 4 points
  17. 4 points
    Thanks! Well, the handle is carved. Need to buy leather next I guess.
  18. 4 points
    The early medieval (Viking age) archeological finds of the sickles are quite common in Poland. So I decided to make some with different technique of the blade welding. To make the first one I used forge welding billet - one piece of the high carbon steel and two pieces of the wrought iron In the second i used two pieces: steel and wrought iron I did a short tutorial:
  19. 4 points
    But think of the fuel you'd save, the steel is already preheated
  20. 4 points
    hey, Pair of spurs made for a reconstructor (not to be used for horses). Made of mild steel. First attempt to make... Thanks Jacek
  21. 4 points
    This was my first commission for a friend. W2, and walnut crotch with denim liners. I did a little bit of experimenting with grey scotch brite, Super awesome results. Gives it a nice milky high grit satin look. I think this one turned out really well. What do ya think? If you have any critique please do tell. Thanks for looking
  22. 4 points
    Moose antlers hand carved, trying my best to catch Viking style...
  23. 3 points
    Finally got a mosaic bar forged out (well, except the tang). I'll finish cleaning it up tomorrow and checking for cracks & weld flaws, but for now I ground one side and quickly etched a small section to see what I have. Currently 3/4" x 7/16" x 27", but it should be about 36" long when the tang is forged out. Barring any weld flaws, I'll be starting on the edge bars tomorrow or Saturday. The edges will be low-layer random pattern and this bar will be the core.
  24. 3 points
    Oh yeah I like where this is going Thickest at the break and tapers down to a nice point tip. It looks like a Seax to me, but I don’t know anything about them so I’ll leave that up to the people who know a thing or two about em.
  25. 3 points
    I've been making sheaths for those knives I finished and figured I'd show a couple of them. These are simple pocket sheaths. I use the same template to cut the leather and just adjust the length/width as needed for the knife. There's a simple belt loop on the back side. I made a pouch sheath (also from a template). The snap constricts the opening just enough so the guard cannot pass by. This is before dying and waxing. And I made a loop sheath for that Bowie.
  26. 3 points
    New project, the Viking Age perforated battle cross axe. The original archeological find was found in Sweden and is stored in the State Historical Museum in Stockholm. To forging it i used several wrought iron hinges and wrought iron parts of an old wooden barn gate (axe body), wrought iron rail (cross and lower part of the axe) and steel rail (cutting age). original find http://mis.historiska.se/mis/sok/bild.asp?uid=350066
  27. 3 points
    Just finished this. Forged 1095 with integral finger guard, antler scales with peened copper rivets. leather blade cover with riveted copper suspension ring, and antler toggle. excuse the picture quality and let me know what you think...
  28. 3 points
    The truth of this is it works well for preheating the quench oil. I just wheel the quench tank outside the door and leave it in the sun while the oven comes up to heat.
  29. 3 points
    hello, Completed project including oak scabbard. Thank you Jacek
  30. 3 points
    Welcome to the quest! I'd start with these two books, with two caveats on the Boye book. First, no need to use scrap steel as he suggests. Good steel is readily available and cheap. Check out https://newjerseysteelbaron.com/. Second, Boye recommends Aqua Regia (combination of Nitric and Hydrochloric) acid for etching knives. That stuff is alien blood dangerous. Buy Ferric Chloride instead. Easy to find on Amazon. Finally, this forum has been in operation for many years, and almost anything you want to know about bladesmithing is on here somewhere, the trouble is finding it. Our internal search engine isn't the best. Try this: Go to google and type: SITE:Bladesmithsforum.com "the thing you want to search for" That will use Google to return results only from this site. Use quotations around the search terms if you want an exact match, remove them if you want those words but not in that order. Dave https://www.amazon.com/Step-Knifemaking-You-Can-Do/dp/0615116590/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=step+by+step+knifemaking&qid=1595721156&sr=8-1 https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Bladesmith-Forging-Your-Perfection/dp/099870816X/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=the+complete+bladesmith&qid=1595721118&sr=8-2
  31. 3 points
    For those of you who are wondering which knife it was that got a new guard, it was this one. Now it has the guard it always wanted.
  32. 3 points
    Because of Corona I have much more time for my hobby
  33. 3 points
    I live in the Sonoran Desert. I think I remember what a Lawn is. It's like a small grazing pasture right? Anyway, we retiled the shower in our Master suite.
  34. 3 points
    Thanks Josh, It is a good fun forging project. Esp when you need a break from pining and gluing handles . I know you would get it once you started. I started on arrow heads as just a quick practice. That being said.... I am only posting the ones that worked out. My graveyard of broken dreams has more than a few crumpled sockets.
  35. 2 points
    Quick N dirty etch on this Wrought iron Seax. I’ll attempt to carburize it some time this week, and hopefully not ruin it.
  36. 2 points
    Gee Alan, you really know how to hurt a guy I've used a fountain pen since 1993, and have used a MontBlanc almost daily for 6 or 7 years now
  37. 2 points
    Always a good idea to be drinking a beer and sprinkle some on the billet before it goes in the forge. That, plus sacrificing a chicken should appease the gods enough for your purposes I'd think
  38. 2 points
    Nice looking everyday carry knife. Often smaller knives are more useful than larger knives. Doug
  39. 2 points
    The latest one. I shamelessly stole the carving design from @Rob Toneguzzo. Hey, if I ever get down under, I'll buy him a pizza and some beer.
  40. 2 points
    I've been plugging away making another seax.. yeah I've got a the bug. I've got a kitchen knife I should be working on but I'd have to put all my leather stuff up. I use my table saw as a leather table when I'm not using it as a saw.
  41. 2 points
    Some recent work during lock down
  42. 2 points
    A little JB Weld and it'll be good as new! (note to all: This is not true. )
  43. 2 points
  44. 2 points
    Antiquity and Early Middle Ages, axes. Four of the engravings are forged from old-welded iron.
  45. 2 points
    I am buying medieval steel make cleaning and usually recreate Viking style in handles... Few fresh items.
  46. 2 points
    I was off grid for a few days, have you started this yet? Need any pointers on using cable? Today I gave a try at scalloped file work on a guard. It still needs some clean up and polishing. Then I get to do the other end!
  47. 2 points
  48. 2 points
    They make great vertical smokers too !!................
  49. 2 points
    I finally got it to down load and when I went to save it my computer said that I already had a copy. Oh well. They say that the memory is the second thing to go and I can't remember what the first one is. Doug
  50. 2 points
    Thanks Perfesser! I'm always welcome for good advice on my threads. I recently acquired two well pressure tanks that were replaced with new ones......one of them will be turned into a HT oven for long blades. They both have a 1 inch MIP threaded hole in the center of the very bottom and a welded ring around the tank to keep it standing upright. You can still see the discharge pipe sticking out of the stand on the left tank. I figure I will cut the top off, line the tank and bring the burner up in the very bottom. Then I'll build a heat diffuser around it with some bricks. If I can weld another ring around the outside of the top, it should fit back onto the lower part pretty snug.
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
×
×
  • Create New...