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  1. 16 points
    Hello! I apologize profusely for the novel that is about to come, I promise I won't be offended if you skip to the pictures I recently graduated from Hampshire College in Massachusetts. Instead of Freshman, Sophomore, etc, students are divided into Division I, II, and III. The first year you take a broad set of unrelated classes, and throughout your middle two years you hone in on something interesting you want to study. Your last year, Division III, is spent working on a thesis project that should be the culmination of the last three years of work and study, producing something wholly new, wether it is a long paper, an experiment, a novel, a play, etc. I have spent the last few years at Hampshire exploring bladesmithing, history, mythology, material culture, and how it all intersects now-a-days. When I arrived there I had never put hammer to anvil, but with some guidance from Elias Sideris and Don Dupuis, I began down the Way. Eli’s work was influenced by the Norse aesthetic, drawing from historical sources as well as wellsprings of artistic inspiration both new and old. I began researching, reading, and looking, and through other artists, like Jake Powning and Petr Florianek, I began to fall in love with that style of work. The seax and the sword captivated me and I began working to unravel their secrets and learn the proportions and geometries that make them be. I began to study Old Norse and the Icelandic Sagas and eventually became enchanted with the poem Beowulf. I first read it in high school and while I enjoyed it, I didn’t know anything about the poem below the surface. I began studying with Professor Craig Davis at Smith College who is a wonderful Beowulf scholar and knows the poem and its intricacies forward and backwards. He agreed to take me on in an independent study examining the use of weaponry in the poem. I began by isolating the four swords featured in the poem, and was later happy to see two of them brought to life by our own forumites and the crew of Arctic Fire 2016 when Dave Stephens created Hrunting, the ancestral and possibly fratricidal blade belonging to Unferth and lent to Beowulf for his fight against the mother. Then there is the Giant’s sword, brought to life by the fateful team of Jake Powning and Owen Bush, forged larger than life and more intricately than could have been imagined previously as a sword only a hero could have wielded. The Third sword is that of Wiglaf, which Dave DelaGardelle is conjuring into existence in his smithy with some steel that I forged for him. (this has been a call out Dave :)) Last but not least is the sword Nægling, an ancestral blade handed down to Beowulf by King Hygelac his forbearer. This is a kingly blade brought up earlier in the poem but used only in the final struggle against the serpent. This blade is an extension of the aged king, and carries the weight of his agency as king and protector. The blade breaks. Made by the hands of men, this heirloom is snapped when it impacts the serpents skull, too hard for normal steel. This is a beautiful moment in the poem for me. Beowulf is painted as the good guy. He has defeated monsters who wanted to destroy and cause harm to his allies. He selflessly defended the people in harms way and proved himself to be a very boastful but trustworthy and powerful man, capable of great deeds. This righteousness ends here. For all of his good intent and earthly power, the serpent IS death. Wyrd comes for all men, and soon the king too must rest. Having delved deeper into this poem I decided a year and a half ago that I would create this kingly sword as it was before it met fate. I had learned the art of hearth melting from Ilya Alekseyev, Mark Green, Zeb, Deming, and Matt Venier among others. I chose to create steel by the light of the full moon every month for a year, and that was the steel I would use to craft this blade. I created low and high carbon material from wrought iron nails, old projects, failed experiments, artifacts, pieces given to my by friends, iron and steel made by great smiths, like Ric Furrer and Jeff Pringle. I ran a melt at Ashokan, and with the help of some of my closest friends, and some wonderful new ones, I made a special piece of material that forged from a 6 pound lump into a 4 foot long bar with only a single crack in it. I helped run a summer class and taught 10 high schoolers how to run a hearth (or three) and make steel. I made material with friends and teachers and the process became as important as the result. At the end of these 12 months though I had come to the end of the easy part, and now I had to actually make the blade. The most important question was what would the blade look like? clearly it needed to be beautiful, as a kings sword would have been. It needed to symbolize the story, like the hilt of the Giant’s sword tells the story of the flood and the demise of the giants, this sword would tell the story of Beowulf and his demise. Enter in the sword from Vehmaa. Featured in the end of Pierces book, Swords of the Viking Age, almost as an afterthought, this blade captivated me since I first bought the book months after starting down this path. This incredible blade features different patterns on each side of the blade as well as an overlaid serpent in the top third of one side. The blade is broken in the top third, separating the serpent. This immediately jumped out to me as being a sword Beowulf could have carried, and the broken serpent was almost too perfect a parallel. Only one smith has been foolhardy brave enough to attempt this blade, and it's none other than my great friend Jesus Hernandez. His incredible creation, and still my favorite sword on this planet can be seen here: With his incredible example out in front I had to try and give it my best! I forged the blade, running into minor issues here and there. The blade itself I consider to be a failure, and is a practice piece for next time. the largest thing I had forged from my own steel was a small seax for Matthew Berry who graciously agreed to do a rush job on making a hilt for this crazy project of mine. I had made much of the steel I used for the sword at Matt’s house over the last year and it was fitting to combine our skills to make a sword worthy of the legendary king. So without further ado, I give you Beowulf’s sword! Just kidding WIP first! This is a small bit of the material I had made and started to refine for this undertaking. The iron and steel pieces were refined differently with an eye for what would go where in the blade. I had close to 60 pounds of material refined for the blade when I was done prep, just to be on the safe side! The billets finished and ready for welding, The leftmost is the edge wrap and the other two are the two sorts of patterned bars found in the sword. I forge welded the serpent bar overtop of the twists on one side of the blade before welding the two sides together. I apologize I don't have many photos of this all as it was a frantic and busy couple of days. The two core pieces next to each other. The original sword had an iron core, but I chose to forgo the added complication. Here the edge is wrapped and welded. It was much harder with home made material than it ever has been for me in modern steel. I'm not sure wether that was due to different expectations in workability or what. The tip weld was nearly the breaking point when I thought I had failed. Some of the pattern peeking through in the scale as I forged the fuller. The original had an iron inlay which was hard to make out. Mikko Moilanen was incredibly generous with his research and has some information on this piece in his dissertation. Skip forward a few crazy minutes and you get to the final moment. The blade was quenched in water and survived! The moon steel sword had hardened nicely. During grinding the blades edges sparked similarly to 1095 or w2 which was a huge surprise as I had never made home made steel that nice before. All of you here know the arduous process that is hand polishing. I wish I had ground it perfectly to 400 grit and polished 320 400 and then 600 and called it a day, but I don't use jigs or fixtures or whatever so I relied on free handing the rest of the geometries. This is scary and also not fun. I ground the blade near sharp at 36 grit and left it there, and polished by hand the rest of the way. This was awful, but worth it, because when I was done and left the blade in the ferric I saw something that made the years work worth it. I had finished the blade but any good blade needs a handle! I contacted my friend Matt and asked if he would be willing to make the fittings for the blade. He agreed and I sent him a photo that was included in a huge set of files from the National Museum of Sweden that he had previously sent me. The museum took wonderful photos of the sword from Vallstenarum. This was the hilt I wanted for my sword and so Matt created beautiful waxes based exactly on the original. The hilt is from a burial in Gotland and features a fabricated and rather botched ring assembly that was certainly not original to the sword. Matt began carving and in an unimaginably small amount of time was able to craft all of the parts needed for the sword and cast them. I went over to his house and we began fitting, drilling, filing, polishing, and assembling all of the parts. We did a huge amount of work and then I took most of the grip home to create the wooden components while Matt finished the pommel assembly. I carved the wooden grip and when I came back a few days later, we spent an afternoon finishing the sword. I had crafted a makeshift sheath which turned out to be hugely helpful in letting us hold the sword for finishing I brought the sword home and began finishing the sheath and the small details so that it would be ready for my gallery show. I forgot to mention I also put together a gallery show for my thesis! That was a lot of work. I had a small space that I filled with several swords and photos on the walls, and cases full of work and some artifacts. I'm sure you guys will recognize some of the pieces! I had to do a loooooot of borrowing to have enough to show I had a case full of some kitchen knives and miscellaneous pieces as well as a belt made with Matt's castings and some artifacts and the pieces they inspired. The center piece! A bit of a story board. A hammer made by Ilya, the one I use for everything along with some parts of the process. Admiring the work! The turn out for the show was far greater than I had anticipated, and it was a huge amount of fun to see so many familiar faces all in the same place. Thank you to everyone here who has inspired me to undertake this journeying to the people who made it possible, both with help researching and experimenting and with distractions or encouragement. Now my hands are starting to itch again, time to get busy!
  2. 15 points
    Hello! this is The Moon's Daughter, a type XVIII b sword that we started in the May Sword Reflections class of Tannery Pond with Zack Jonas and Peter Jonnhson. finally we finished it. is a pattern welded sword. (1095/1070) the thickness at the cross is 6 mm and the width is 47 mm. The length of the blade is 94 cm and it is 118 in total length. is built following the guidelines dictated by Peter J for the class, many thanks to PJ, ZJ and the classmates for such beautiful days
  3. 12 points
    Here's my latest... a custom order that when I drew options for the client, I labelled "insane" as it was an exercise more than anything in taking lines to an extreme. I was a little taken aback when he chose the drawing to proceed with. It has a 15" blade, is 20-3/4" in overall length, and the blade is 2.25" max width at the harpoon apex. It features a 9 bar pattern-weld blade, in turkish/serpents composite with explosion pattern bars for the clip and dropped edge. Completing the package are a 954 aluminum bronze guard, sculpted grenadilla handle, and 954 bronze nut for the through tang-construction. It is 1 lb. 12.3 oz. in total weight, and balanced to CHOP. Pics and a vid! Thanks for checking it out!
  4. 11 points
    My latest... I tried a lot of new stuff on it, which mostly worked out. I tried hard to minimize struggling edges... 15" dagger, midrib blade in Zanjir multibar pattern weld with turkish cores and explosion edges. Ball guard and wheel pommel in low layer pattern weld. Grip in "cage of bars" style with twisted pattern bars over leather wrapped walnut core, based an ancient hand and a half sword of Oakshotte XV typology. Through-tang peened construction with two-piece ferrules and peen block of parkerized iron. 21.5" overall, 1 lb. 8 oz. in weight. Pics and a vid... hope you like!
  5. 11 points
    As the title suggests, here is a variation on a theme. People like what they like, and it seems I have a few knives that people really like. That's fine, I enjoy making them, and I still exercise a little bit of creativity in each one. Although I totally forgot to put my makers mark on this knife, which pisses me off, but you know, it could be worse. It's really not hard to tell it is something I made... Anyhow, it is made from Aldo's 1075, which I really dig. Beaten copper, and a gorgeous piece of Desert Ironwood to finish it off. I wish pictures could do the wood justice. It glows in the light. Good stuff. Blade is 4.25" (10.8 cm) with a total length of 9.25" (22.9 cm). Hope you like.
  6. 11 points
    This was a very pleasant commission to work on for me. I could practice a little more of inlaying and the results got better than i could anticipate, even if I have much to evolve in this art. The blade was mostly done by stock removal, but the tip and the tang were forged prior to the grinding. It was made using 1070 steel. The hilt is of a variation of Petersen's type L and it's components are made in mild steel and the inlays are nickel silver. The twisted wires are also nickel silver. It was then oil coated and lightly heated to make it look darker, so the contrast with the cooper-alloy would be even more visible. It is also a good way to prevent rust. My signature this time went on the inside of the lower guard, as the blade carries my maker's name. And on the pommel is asymmetrical in decoration: one side carries a similar decoration to the guards and the other a "double Týr" bind rune. The idea of peening it on the pommel cap is also a historical method, but I made it mainly because it would be more secure than peening the upper guard and attaching the pommel cap to it. The handle is pine wood wrapped in cord and then covered with pig skin. The scabbard is also pinewood, as well as it's belt-bridge. It is lined inside with natural wool and covered with linen cloth. The chape is also mild steel and the bridge is held by leather strips. All the decorations were made to fit a late ninth century fashion, although it is a simplification of the Borre style rather than a more elaborate version. The runes on the blade are inspired mainly on inscriptions of later, 10th and 11th century blades commonly made in Latin language such as Ingelri or Gecelin, but also inspired on the famous Tizona of El Cid and the Cortana from the legend of Holger Danske when it comes in the naming process of it. The use of the runes or local language was a choice of the owner, although I'm aware of only a single sword with runic inscriptions from the period (according to Petersen, B1622), but I have no access to what is written on this exemplar. They read: ik er ulfsmoþRin (Ek er UlfsmóðrRinn - I am the Wrath of the Wolf) hioruarþR kirosi mik (Hjörvarðr gerosi mek - Hjörvarðr made me) They are all written in old norse and I used the danish long-twig young futhork to write them. The sword was exposed at one of the biggest blade shows here in Brazil, where it was awarded the prize of Best Sword of the show and is indeed a proud weapon to display, as well as is swift and powerful to wield. As usual, I wrote a short tale for this blade that can be read here: http://vferreiraarruda.blogspot.com.br/2017/08/ulfsmor-wrath-of-wolf.html I hope you like it. And here are the stats of it. Overall length: 94,0cm Blade length: 79,7cm Blade width: 5,4cm Blade thickness at the guard: 0,5cm PoB: 17,2cm Length of the grip: 10,3cm Weight: 1,150kg
  7. 11 points
    Sorry man. Locking this thread. This ain't a politics forum. It's a forum for makers who meet on the accorded neutral ground of creativity and craftsmanship. We leave our politics and flame wars at the door on the way in. Our founder, Don Fogg, set this tone from the beginning and we maintain that position. Cheers, Dave
  8. 10 points
    When I first got interested in mustard patinas, I asked around how it was done and the answer I got was "you put mustard on the blade". While I understand it meant there was no wrong ways to do it, I was hoping for a bit more details . Now that I've done a few patinas and had A LOT of requests on how I get this stonewashed look, I'm going to give you the details in this short tutorial. This bladesport'ish blade was not intended to have a patina but it was the only one I had around that's large enough for a good demo. In case you wondered, it is 80CrV2 steel. This patina will work pretty good on any simple carbon or tool steels, as long as they don't contain too much nickel like 15n20 or L6. The nickel increases the steel's resistance to acid. So, what I first do is hand sand the blade to #800. It may not be necessary but I like how, after the patina is done, the blade is still shiny from a certain angle of view and shows how good the finish is. After the blade is finished and cleaned with acetone or brake cleaner, I use these cotton pads to dab the mustard. Only a small amount of mustard is necessary. The thinner the layer, the darker the finish. I dab a LOT to get an even layout. Now is the time to let it dry. Wait at least 30 minutes. Then clean thoroughly in soapy water and dry. Here's what it looks like after just one layer. You may be satisfied and stop there or do a second layer for a darker and more homogeneous finish. Everywhere there was tiny mustard spikes is where the blade did barely etch and shows those lighter spots. Now a second coat. And how it looks after a good cleaning. I have found that applying a thin film of food grade mineral oil darkens the finish even further. It's not been applied yet on these photos. If you have any questions, please ask and I'll update the tutorial if needed.
  9. 10 points
    Hello: Been sorta busy around here with family stuff since we have a brand new granddaughter so this is something I whipped out real quick.. This one is welded from a mix of 1095, L-6 and a bit of meteoric iron thrown in ..8 1/4" Maiden Hair blade...Phosphor bronze mounts...Some of that bowling ball material for the fluted grip..This piece looks like a deep reddish maple burl! Turned out OK...at least I think so... The sheath is set with a 17.65 Ct star ruby.. cut this one myself.. All in all I think it didn't turn out too bad.. Hope the photos work... This one is website stock and is currently listed there... JPH
  10. 10 points
    This is the latest collaboration sword from myself Petr Florianek . We wanted to make another fantasy sword yet at the same time keeping a firm grip on reality. This a very much a “real” sword but also a dragon slaying hero’s sword! The sword blade takes inspiration from early Saxon blades, marrying that history into Tolkien’s middle earth and the world of the Rohirrim horse lords. The blade was made by myself and the handle and scabbard are Petr’s work. The blade takes inspiration from early Saxon patternwelded blades and has a lenticular section giving it the heft and strength needed when fighting dragons! It is important for me that anything I make has a functional reality to it. A reality based upon the imagined purpose of the object . This is the sword of a mighty horselord hero with the pride and fate of his people behind him. A sword for battling a dragon. Bryneleoma has a patternwelded blade 3 core bars twisted anticlockwise, clockwise and anticlockwise, the core bars are wrapped in a high layer damascus edge . The bold core pattern contrasting the fine layers of the edge. In Petr’s words… I wanted to make a truly heroic sword and when given Owen’s mighty blade, I had enough inspiration to get the feel of it. The blade is hefty and long so I immediately started to picture a mounted warrior; a hero on a horse, a proto knight if you will. The inspiration for this sword is firmly set in Tolkien’s Middle Earth, in the world of the Rohirrim horse lord. The motives for ornamentation are simple – he dragon on the pommel as the most powerful enemy but also a symbol to ward off evil. On the handle a series of knots representing fate being spun by higher beings. The knot on the guard symbolises oath, the oath of the horse lord bound to his people as their protector. An oath from sword to swordsman, the guard of the sword being there to protect its heroic master. I love doing these pieces with Petr, and always look forward to getting the finished piece. He has a way of bringing a blade to life.....
  11. 10 points
    Hunter , 1095, brass, leather, deer antler, total length 25.5 cm blade 13 cm.
  12. 10 points
    It seems Brian and I both had the idea to follow Steve Culver's instruction book on how to built a slipjoint folder without making patterns first. Like Brian, I know this is not going to be my last one! This one is bound for Knife in the Hat, and I will use what I learned making it to make the next one even better. Specs: Blade and backspring, 3/32" precision ground O-1 flat bar Brass liners with Nickel Silver bolsters and pins. Jigged bone scales from Culpepper & Co., Amber dyed, Catalina pattern. Open length 5 7/8" / 147mm, blade length 2 5/8" / 66mm. Closed length 3 1/4" / 82mm Maximum thickness 3/8" / 11mm I made two changes from Culver's design. I omitted the scale pin near the peak of the liners because I thought it was unnecessary and distracting, and I rounded the tang because I've never liked a knife with a half-stop. It just seems ridiculous to me and serves no purpose except to break your thumbnail if the spring is too strong. Speaking of which, I am really happy with the spring. It isn't too heavy, and the knife snaps open and closed with authority. The judge of how strong to make the spring is my wife, if she thinks it's too strong, back to the grinder! It feels much like any good factory knife of its size, spring strength-wise. And now for the pics! The problems I had with this one: 1. The pivot pin is not invisible on one side. 2. The blade is not dead center when closed. 3. A minor slip at the grinder moved the left-hand plunge line back into the kick. 4. While soldering the bolsters, the scribed line on the right bolster was not where I thought it was, resulting in a mismatch between the two sides. Much colorful language and careful filing followed. There has been a bit more cleanup on it after these pics were taken, mostly to remove that facet on the underside of the bolsters. I also engraved that spot with my initials since I forgot to do the blade prior to hardening...
  13. 10 points
    Id like to credit this award to all the foundation work and help i acquired over the last couple years directly from this forum! Without you guys I don't know how far i would have progressed but i wouldn't be where i'm at for sure. Anyway, Im still in shock. I wanted to show and give credit to Alan and salem and the other 100 guys on here that have given me A LOTTTT of their time answering dumb questions. Also, to encourage the newer guys to keep cranking out stuff and trying and making knives! 320 layers Laddered (appears random until you see the chatoyance) -trippy forged integral 2.5" tall at the heel 9.25" long Amboyna 5 stack of g10 spacers 5.5 oz
  14. 10 points
    Don gave me this blade five or six years ago and said, "Make something beautiful with it". Hmm, ok, so it rumbled around in my mind until last fall. It was a slow process figuring out the transition, theme and all the details, but I think it came good in the end. I didn't find out until it was almost finished that it was Don's last patterned blade. I knew it had to be one of the last, but THE last. I'm glad I didn't know as I was working on it. Below is a little of what I've written. More to be read here: Kelso Journal And a slide show with more photos here: Fogg/Kelso In keeping with the persona of a hunting knife, I chose to represent features of the Vermont woodlands that would be familiar to a skilled, observant woodsman. These include tracks of the Red Fox, leaves of Red Maple, Beech, and Red and White Oaks, and a feather. The feather was modeled from the Ruffed Grouse, but altered in shape and color to fit the surroundings. I chose a feather as a sign of passage, which in the case of birds, could be molting, conflict, flight or death. Feathers have such deep and subtle beauty. My wife Jean and I have a collection and I always wonder, when finding a single feather, what the story was. The tracks, leaves and feather are all signs, marking activity and transition, the meaning of which is read by the skilled woodsman. This project has been very satisfying for a number of reasons. I was touched and honored when Don gave me the blade to finish. I did not realize until the piece was nearly finished that it was his last patterned blade, which greatly enhances the meaning for me. Don is a legend in the smithing world, and rightly so. Apart from his technical innovations, he has an artistic eye, both for pattern and form, which is rarely, if ever matched. In addition, his Bladesmith’s Forum stands as an unparalleled online resource for beginning and accomplished knifemakers.
  15. 10 points
    Let me present Roðinn Hrafn - the Red or "Bloodstained Raven". Blade in folded and twisted railroad steel, in a san-mai lamination with Øberg steel for the core. Handle in stabilized Maple, with Holly for the core, copper, brass and vulcanized fiber. The Holly is engraved with Elder Futhark runes - written in old Norse - and filled with ashes. Any and all critique, is ... as always - most welcome. :) Sincerely, Alveprins.
  16. 10 points
    Hey everyone! I finished this piece a few days ago, so I took some photos and thought I would share! This began as a small billet for a demo at NESM for their annual hammer in, and upon finishing the blade a client signed onto the project, so I designed the hilt and we went from there! I still have to make the sheath, and when it's done I'll update this thread. The blade is seven bars of pattern weld, wrought iron on the spine, four twisted bars, more wrought iron, and then an edge of ~400 layers. The handle is moose antler, bog oak, silver, wrought iron, and rubies. I guess I'll do the usual and post a few finished photos and then a WIP! WIP time! So this piece started off as a billet about 8 inches long. I twisted everything extremely tight and laid up the wrought iron and edge bar. I tacked the billet on one end and brought it to Maine with me. I was invited to demonstrate on both days, and first gave a lecture on the historical seax and then did a practical demo the next day, forging a long seax. I then brought the blade to Zack Jonas' workshop a while after it was finished and began to work out what the design should be. Drawing from a few different artifacts I designed something that intrigued me. I used a few drill bits and a set of needle rasps to get the bolster fit properly. Here you can see the fit bolster next to the sawn bog oak and the drawing I made for the client. I used the needle rasps to file and clean up the slot for the tang to seat in the wood properly which is a new trick, I promptly went and bought my own set after! That's as far as I got at Zack's, and upon returning home I began to shape the handle. I always do my rough shaping on the belt grinder to establish the lines I am after and then use files or sandpaper to refine the shape. In this case I am going for a slight hourglass shape and need to do some careful firework to establish my lines. After about an hour the work is done and I can polish to about 400 grit in preparation for the rest of the detailing. At this point I figured I would set the half moon shape on the bolster as per my design. I did this freehand on the grinder and then polished with some paper on a flat surface. Here you can see there is a slight inletting in the edge side of the bolster to allow the blade to sit better. I used a jewelers saw to begin the cuts for the silver wire and then a series of files and rasps to make the recess for the wire. After some epoxy and a few wracked nerves the silver is in place. I couldn't remember what size bezel wire I had used in the past on the amber seax, but I did some experimenting and figured it out. Here's the piece next to the scaled up drawing I made to keep with me as I was working. I think I'll start doing this more in the future. I cut out the piece of fine silver and annealed it, then bent it to shape on the back end of the bog oak grip, and because it was so soft it readily accepted its new shape. I took some nice wrought iron I had and cut a small coupon off and drilled and filed a hole to fit it to the tang. My original thought was to make the pommel just a cap and not be held on by the tang, but Peter convinced me I should weld an extension to the tang and peen the pommel on. Here I am using sharpie to get a vague idea of where I should grind to. I never really do this sort of work with a caliper and exact measurements, instead using my eye to get things close. I may change this some day and do more exact work, but for the style of work I do I feel that this gives my work a more 'organic' nature. I roughed in the shape on the grinder and then drilled my holes. I probably would change the order of operations next time. Once the pommel was roughly fit I began to tune the shape with files. Eventually I ended up with this. I began to peen the bezels in place from the inside to hold them properly. I did all of the setting work before attaching to the handle so I could burnish all the way around easily. Once the rubies were set I peened the whole thing together after administering some epoxy. Here you can see the peen isn't cleaned up yet. After some careful belt grinding and 2000 grit paper to clean the peen up, I went out back behind the shop to take some photos! I hope that's helpful or at least informative, thanks for looking guys!
  17. 10 points
    I apologize again for my relative absence, I try to remember to post here but since I know so many of you outside the forum now, I tend to forget I'm sure many of you have already read this and seen the pictures, but for my friends here who aren't on Facebook or Instagram, here you go I've taken the time to focus on improving my knowledge and skills this past month of September, trying to achieve some things I've never been able to do before. This started by spending an entire week in New Hampshire at Zack Jonas's shop as a student of the one and only Peter Johnsson. That week, I took a sip of knowledge from a fire hydrant of information. Peter was an insanely great teacher and was able to get some valuable ideas through even my thick skull, and I got to experience some things that will stick with me for the rest of my career, such as handling 2000+ year old swords, knives, and scabbards, staying up at night having philosophical discussions around a fire... This has all been tied up into a bow with the completion of this sword. It's a British style middle La Tène era sword I've named Epona, after the Celtic goddess of horses, who undoubtedly would have been important to warfare and calvary. It's a happy coincidence that I chose the British style, since through a convoluted string of events, I recently discovered that pretty much all of my heritage comes from the British isles. The blade is a lenticular cross section pattern welded blade, made from a mix of high carbon steel and old wrought iron in the core, and high layer Damascus edges forge welded to the softer core. The hilt is made from ancient bog oak graciously given to me by my good friends Dave Delagardelle and Tony Greenly, and the spacers are bronze in a stacked construction, just like the ancient British swords. During the finishing phase of this project, I spent about as much time wearing an optiviser as I spent without one. I put more skill and attention to detail into this piece than I have on anything I've ever made, and I feel that it marks a new era in the quality of my work. Thanks for reading everyone! If you've read this far, thanks a lot! Let me know if you've got any questions, critiques, comments, etc!
  18. 10 points
    Hi All! Haven't been here for some time... I've been learning, and improving skills Here there is a scramasax forged out of 5 bars: 3 x twisted rods (45/68/45 layers) + spine and cutting edge of 80CrV2. The handle is made with bronze spacers, deer antler, pear wood and black leather spacer. The "eye" on the butt is brass riveted and soldered from beneath. Overall len.: 515mm/20,27" Blade len.: 323mm/12,71" Handle len.: 184mm/7,24" Width: at handle: 33,5mm/1,32", at widst point: 35mm/1,38" Thickness: 5,5mm/0,22" Weight: 483g/17oz Let's save the words, pictures show some stages of work
  19. 10 points
    Hi all ! It's my first post on this forum so I wanted to say hello and show you my pattern welded seax which I finished few days ago. Total length 47cm, blade 32cm Width 3,2 cm Maciej Leszczyński - Kuźnia Wilkowo
  20. 10 points
    As we look Back it is always hard to tell if such a knife was made for a Dwarven Hero or for a Hero of Men, often these details are lost in the mists of time and imagination. Either way this is a stout stedfast and robust knife (certainly Dwarven made) perfect for heroic undertakings, expeditions in search of gold and adventures beyond the realms of men. “If hunting Warg, or tracking Dragons,a stout knife is always a benefit. Keen of edge , a true stroke struck will not be repelled by the stoutest hide. But after the adventuring is done and mead is flowing. When the fire is sizzling with aromas , the hunters legacy roasting….Then tales are told and knives passed around the hall, adornment , edge and jewel reflected glittering in the firelight. The deeds of the day become bigger , wolves become wargs and tall tales become legends. The knife blade is made by me and the handle, sheath and all the other lovley bits are made by Petr Florianek (Gullinbursti) ( This 12” bladed knife is forged from 4 bars of patternweld, there is wrought iron on the spine and 2 bars of 5 later twisted steel. The edge is 300 layers of folded damascus steel, the swirls in the pattern showing the multitude of hammer striked used to forge the blade. The knife adorned with carved brass and antler, silver and garnet. Fierce beasts are carved into the handle and a Dragon writhes carved amidst the brass and garnets.
  21. 9 points
    Some people might remember my first "Seax knife" that was actually a tanto... This is my second atempt, much better considering I sharpened the right side this time. My grandparents wanted something to display on the mantle, I thought this one would do nicely. The blade is 1080 and 15n20, with a brass guard, elk antler spacer with black fiber gaskets, and brazilian ebony. Overall length is 8 1/2", with a blade length of 4". I made this in master bladesmith Audra Drapers shop, under her close supervision. Hope you all enjoy.
  22. 9 points
    A recent piece of work. A pattern welded tomahawk with a 5 bar construction with each bar having 14 layers. The cutting edge is approx 500 layers. The edge is 2 1/4" and the head is 6" long.
  23. 9 points
    I've been working on a pipe tomahawk head and finished up the filing on Sunday. After taking the last few strokes with a 3" needle file, and seeing the 16" mill bastard next to it, I thought it would be of interest to some to see the results of drawfiling the way I do, the end result, and every single file I used on the project. First, drawfiling. For hawk heads, there's really not a good way to finish them totally on the grinder because of all the odd curves and stepped lines. Well, maybe if I had a small wheel attachment, but not as I am currently set up. I forge to shape, remove the scale and rough profile with an angle grinder, then use the belt grinder to rough in the surfaces, although it's not strictly necessary. Once the scale is gone you can jump straight to filing, I made hawks that way for eight years before I got the belt grinder. Once I have it as flat as it's gonna be on the belt grinder (36, 60, and 80 grit zirconia followed by A300, A160, A65, and A45 trizact), it's time to drawfile. I start with the 16" mill bastard, which immediately shows where the belt grinder did not make it truly flat. Then to the 12" mill bastard, then on to the six-inchers. Mill bastard, Mill 2nd cut, then mill smooth. After the last strokes with the 6" mill smooth, it's ready for 220-grit paper. I originally took this picture to show the carbon migration from the 1084 edge steel to the wrought iron body, but then I realized I had never posted a picture of a properly drawfiled surface. There are still a couple of 36-grit scratches on the edge steel, but that will be ground away after heat treat. Yes, this is not yet hardened. Also, I should mention if you don't have a belt grinder you can do the entire thing with files. Just takes a little longer. Next, here is the result of all the filing, both draw and push. See what I mean about things you can't do with a belt grinder? Every last bit of surface you see is the result of filing. There was a lathe involved in creating the bowl, but files were used on the bowl while it was in the lathe chuck as well. Note this is as-filed, it has not been sandpapered yet. Well, the molding between eye and blade has been cleaned up with a 1/2" sanding drum for a Dremel, but that's it. Finally, the files used in making this hawk: From the left, we have the 16" mill bastard with one edge ground safe (heavy stock removal and rapid drawfileing), the 1/4" chainsaw (setting some of the curves on the lathe), a 14" long-angle lathe file (fast stock removal push-filing, tends to leave a smoother surface than the 16" mill) 12" round file (lathe work), 12" mill bastard for intermediate smoothing, 8" half-round for setting the transition from eye to blade and shaping that little step on the bottom, the three six-inch mill files (bastard with safe edge, 2nd cut, and smooth), two 6" three-squares, one slim and one XX-slim with a safe edge (these were used to make the grooves and clean up the inside corners on the bowl), and finally, the 3" round needle file that was used to clean up the grooves. The 16" is the workhorse of the family. Used as a push file it cut the shoulders on the transition and the V on the eye. As a draw file it flattened and blended the blade. The long-angle lathe file has two safe edges (meant to be used on the lathe, it won't mar the chuck). The round file and big chainsaw file clean up my sloppy lathework on the neck of the bowl. The other bastard files are just used to clean up after the one before. The three-square XX-slim with one face ground smooth can cut dovetails, but it also acts like a knife to cut very sharp straight lines for the grooves. The slim three-square follows those lines to widen and deepen the cut, and the needle file removes the coarser marks of the bigger files. And that's only about a quarter of my file collection...
  24. 9 points
    Some quick iPhone pics to prove it so I can finally say this project is DONE! Summer gets crazy busy with almost no shop time but I eked out enough time to put on the finishing touches. I think I’ll try to get some good pictures and then these go to the intended recipients. Without further ado: Pretty proud of the result. Quite a few things I will tweak on the next go around. Always room for improvement. Hope you all enjoyed the WIP. Adam
  25. 9 points
    Hello!! Here are a few pieces I whipped out this last week or so....yes I committed forgery! All are hilted with some of my Bovine Ivory (I love using that stuff..very nice material when done right)... Pic heavy so...with out further adieu ..away we go!! JPH
  26. 9 points
  27. 9 points
    Here's my finished Arkansas Toothpick/Dagger: Custom Damascus, stabilized mastodon ivory bark, 416 stainless w/blade steel inlays:
  28. 9 points
    The knife was made by the very good friend George Plataniotis,a Farrier in real life.... He made it to honour all the farriers who work hard.. ""The five elements of farriery knife" Anvil - hammer - fire - rasp - horse all that stuf helps a farrier to make his living !!! Forged farrier rasp , brass shaped with file by hand. Plataniotis George All rights reserved" 10154952_724713490956251_8587702440613943480_n (1) by theodore Anastoulis, on Flickr IMGP2759 by theodore Anastoulis, on Flickr IMGP2770 by theodore Anastoulis, on Flickr IMGP2789 by theodore Anastoulis, on Flickr IMGP2814 by theodore Anastoulis, on Flickr Thank you all for your patience and for viewing! Have a nice day from Greece
  29. 8 points
    I finally bowed to the peer pressure of a friend and made him a chef knife. It is 88 layers of 1080 and 15N20 laddered with a bronze bolster, black G10 spacer, and a pretty stabilized Redwood burl handle. Caleb Royer did the picture. Anyhow, here is it. Let me know what you think gentlemen.
  30. 8 points
    I have been playing with patterns...I took an iron jewelry class with Janos Gabor Varga earlier this year ( a great class) and it got me thinking about some patterns...a bit of experimentation and a few cockups later this came along! Helter skelter pattern... what do you recon?
  31. 8 points
    Finishing this up for a friend. She wanted a seax with some Japanese flavour, and this is what I came up with. 7 1/2" blade, 1" wide and 1/4" thick at the break, 13" overall. Sculpted copper blade collar, buffalo horn fuchi and kashira with copper accents. Carved walnut handle in a take down construction secured by a copper pin. The blade needs a light buffing to brighten it, and I need to finish the sheath tomorrow, so I'll try and get some better pics then... let me know what you think...
  32. 8 points
    I've had this chunk of meteorite laying in my shop for some time and decided it's time to use it. I've made two blades from this chunk already. I'm not sure just what type of blade I will make from it but that's still a long way off. There are two things that you must keep in mind when working a meteorite. One is that they have no carbon content so you must weld them to steel that has too much carbon in order to sacrifice some of it through migration in order to end up with a billet that will harden then way that you want. For this one I'm welding it to two pieces of W1 steel which has 1.05 C. Also you must remember that most meteorites are very "red short". This means that you must do most of the forging to the blade after welding it between two pieces of steel so that it can't crumble & flake off. This is a chunk of "Campo de Cielo" meteorite. It is 92% iron & 8% nickel.
  33. 8 points
    I have been playing with feather patterns recently, started up looking at illerup idal blade fern patterns and later evolved to a feather pattern , trying to get a stand alone feather...Its been fun. and has lots of spin offs running in my mind. firy , flamy frondy stuff!
  34. 8 points
    I've been wanting to make one of these for ages and finally got around to it. The body of the knife is made from 2mm thick copper sheet which I've beaten and filed the top then applied liver of sulphur to patina the surface. The blade is made from Shiro 2 with a white paper steel core, blade thickness is 3mm, blade length is 75mm, that's cutting edge, overall length of the knife is 186mm and the closed length including the flipper is 135mm. I've called her Tombo, dragonfly, I hope you like her. Thank you for taking the time to look guys and all comments are really appreciated. Steve
  35. 8 points
    I wanted to share some photos from a recent hearth steel experiment we ran. The setup replicated how Emiliano has been producing hearth steel. Our protocol may have been slightly different: Input: Mild Steel (1in x 1/2in x 5/16in) and charcoal (1in pieces) 7 charges (150g mild steel + 400g charcoal). 1 charge every 4 minutes. One additional charge of 400g charcoal. Output: ~950g of high carbon stuff Here are some pictures of the setup: 7 Firebricks standing up; 1in tyuere at roughly 3/4 the height of a firebrick angled slightly downward. In action video Extracting the puck. After quick consolidation on the power hammer. Spark test. Looking good. Knife after heat treatment. Unfortunately, I made the tang transition below where I forge welded some mild steel. Oops.
  36. 8 points
    Not exactly blades, but they have edges and points so I thought they might still be of interest. I needed to make a new set of arrows for myself (I am making 24 but these are the first 8) that I didn't mind shooting and that I knew would hold up. I had made arrows before, but never forged my own points and never forged a socket before so this has been valuable practice. The heads are hardened and burned in. The shafts are barrel tapered port orford cedar spined for a 50lb bow, stained and sealed. The nocks were reinforced with ebony wedges. Turkey feather fletching with artificial sinew spiral wrap. Overall I am pretty happy with the first batch, though I definitely learned that I need to make the sockets a bit wider than it seems I should while forging.
  37. 8 points
    I didn't get in much shop time today but did manage to get the first of eight dogwood flowers roughed out. These will all get inlaid side-by-side into a billet of 1084 using a canoe & 1084 powder.
  38. 8 points
    Hello: Here is this last week's work..One worked and the others are what I call a pattern fail.. well.. as I have said before..experience is what you get when you don't get what you want so...while they turned out OK as a knife in general they are not what I wanted... Materials are 1095/L-6 and a small amount of meteoric iron.. Now the one that worked was the one I was sure wouldn't..that is the wavy feather pattern..THAT one did work and I think it came out pretty spiffy..I just wish I could make a longer piece cause a full length sword in this pattern would be totally unreal..It was a real PITA doing this pattern and I think I found a way that isn't so nerve wracking...More on this later once I work it out and get things sorted.. Hope these pics work.. This old man is back to work... JPH
  39. 8 points
    Ok, I'm too excited about this to not share it. I'm working on my second attempt at mosaic pattern, and just got my first glimpse of the pattern. I'm kind of bouncing up and down like a kid at Christmas right now...
  40. 8 points
    Hello: Finally something interesting and funny on this end..a while back (several years) a friend of mine's son was joining the US Army so I made him a rr spike knife when he graduated AIT..He carried it for many years and used the beegeezus out of it... No complaints at all...until now I was just notified that the blade has been pretty much destroyed when so Yahoo tank driver drove his M-1 Abrams over his gear and well..it seems that the knife..in one last act of defiance somehow got up into the tread between tread section and the blade was pretty much peined over 90 degrees..( it did not break..) causing the tread to jam and pretty much disabling the tank.. The odds of this happening must be astronomical.. a $45.00 knife takes out a 4.3 million dollar piece of equipment.. I am trying to get a copy of the maintenance report ..Believe me I will use it on my website... Needless to say I sent him another rr spike knife.. Buck has their bolt cutting..Cold Steel has their chop socky/slicey videos..Amateurs!! How many makers can say that one of their knives can stop a tank..in a combat zone none the less?? NONE!! And folks say that RR spikes don't make good knives... Well all I can say is -- Take that!! This news came at just the right time as I needed a major "pick me up" with all that has been going on here.. Thought I would share some good news for a change... I got a real chuckle out of this and I think ya all will as well... JP (Tank Bane) H
  41. 8 points
    Little broke back, wrought and 1075, nickle silver and white tail antler Sword with bloom iron core, 1075 edge, bog oak and copper inlay fittings Wolfs tooth seax, wrought, 1075 edge, brass and maple burl Tiny tiny knife. Micro twist spine of 1075 and 15n20, serpent of mild and wrought, edge of 1075, copper and maple burl Large seax is 1095 ans 15n20 made by my friend and i handled it Serpent seax Little broke back pweld with antler and bogoak
  42. 8 points
    A friend of mine who hails from the aforementioned Gallifrey once told me it doesn't pay to muck about with time, despite the fact that he (now she, it's a long story...) does it all the time. To that end, I got this item from an alternate timeline in which a breakaway kingdom of Saxons ended up in what we now call Scotland. We are all familiar with the other Saxon kingdoms, i.e. Essex, Wessex, Sussex, and Middlesex, not to mention Kent, Mercia, and Northumberland. In this other timeline , there was a more northern kingdom as well, Norssex. They employed the techniques the other Saxon kingdoms did, but in that other timeline they never went away. There was no Norman conquest, because King Harald of Wessex didn't have to fight the battle at Stamford Bridge, and as a result was able to beat William at Hastings. All this mucking about with time seems to have resulted in this blade, which displays an odd combination of form and technique. Basically, it seems to be in the shape of an 18th century Highland Dirk, but the blade and fittings are pure Saxon from the 6th century in Kent. If not for the hilt, I'd call it a short broad seax. As part of its unusual journey through time, some parts of it appear far older and beaten-up than other parts. The chape, for instance. It is needle-sharp at the tip, but somewhat the worse for wear. The frog has a couple of odd plaques of garnet cloisonné reminiscent of the Staffordshire Hoard. The pommel is very interesting, taking the form of a Kentish circular brooch. Together these embellishments are quite striking. The hilt itself appears to be ebony, with inexpertly produced carving, probably by an owner rather than the maker. Pity, it would have been nice to have good carving there. The blade is where it gets interesting: It appears to be a composite of three bars of interrupted alternating twists of high-phosphorus and low-phosphorus wrought iron, with a little steel for good measure, plus an edge bar of pure steel that shows a very slight hamon low towards the edge. The ferrule/bolster thingy has an integral blade collar similar to a habaki. The pattern in the blade is subtle, best seen close up. Or even closer. The shiny iron is low phosphorus, the darker is high phosphorus. The wide bands are actually shiny, but appear dark in this picture because I had to mess with the contrast to bring out the grain. Overall it's about 14" long, and 1/4" wide at the spine with no distal taper until the tip starts to curve in. My time-travelling friend couldn't say much about its origin beyond what I have related above, but I hope you will agree, it is a most interesting artifact. If you have any questions I'll do my best to answer, but it will just be me, the Doctor (as she is called) is very hard to contact when she (or he, I never know what he or she is going to look like from year to year) is off doing whatever and whenever it is he or she does. I'd love to hear your thoughts and speculations on this piece regardless. Thank you for looking.
  43. 8 points
    Hey Everyone! I have here a few lot of photos of a commission I have been finishing over the last few weeks! It is a blade made for a good friend and client who has been amazingly patient with my slow progress. I'm happy to have it done and wanted to show it off here! First some finished shots and then the WIP shots. Enjoy! Some stats first! Blade is 30.5 inches long and weighed a little over 600 grams on its own. The finished sword weighs in at 1036 grams. It is pattern welded and made in four bars, a random edge of 300 layers and two seven layer twists with iron on the spine. The hilt fittings are iron with silver wrap. The grip is basswood covered in hemp cord and then leather dyed dark. The scabbard is made of sheepskin and poplar covered in linen and then leather, with a maple scabbard bridge. It is made in a historical style drawing very heavily on several original artifacts the client documented and shared with me. The proportions and sizes are an amalgam of several of these artifacts, mostly from Ireland. This sword is purpose built, it sings with intent and seems to pulse in your hand. It is alive and strong, quick and keen, and sings sharply as it cuts through the air. So! I started with a few billets of steel and iron and went to town; here's the WIP! The bars each received two tight twists in small sections offset from each other, trying to make a nice repeating pattern that is not matched from bar to bar. Here I have the bars laid up and ready for welding. A bar folded to 300 layers of 15n20 and 1084 and the two twist bars, seven layers of 15n20 and 1084, and then a spine of wrought iron. A kind of wonky time lapse video of forge welding the billet. Unless I am doing a small knife or seax I like to do my forge welding by hand. IMG_0694.m4v Apres forge welding! Nice and clean looking. I actually over estimated by quite a bit and the billet was about 40 inches long when finished. I cut off the excess and forged a foot long seax out of it, which I'll post about sometime later! I cut the tip and began forging the shape of the blade. The tip shape of this sort of sword is very characteristic of the style and hard to miss. Very flat spine with an often rounded and abrupt tip taper, sometimes more gradual like mine. And the rough forging is done! You can see the radius of the fuller forged in near the shoulders of the blade in the reflections of the water. I try to forge everything as close as possible before beginning the heat treat or grinding. Fast forward a little while and you get to this! I brought the sword to Matt Berrys place and used his luxuriously long heat treat kiln. I had to quench the sword 3 times because of a pretty drastic curvature that occurred. Because of the wrought iron spine the sword gained positive sori and ended up looking like a beautiful katana, which would have been great if it was meant to be a katana... So I did it again, and then a third time, with a pre forged downward curvature, which straightened out slightly and ended with a nice slightly curved blade. These blades have a very characteristic downward curvature seen in most examples. This is a pretty clear sign of oil quenching, as the quench is slower the edge pulls the blade downwards, and with water the spine cools more slowly which pulls the blade up. IMG_0762.TRIM.m4v The blade sitting after quenching and after cooling enough to stop curving up. The pattern showing through the scale. Post temper! I almost wish I could have left the sword like this. So at this point work got a little crazy and I took a break from commissioned work. I was able to begin planning the rest of the sword, but it would be a few weeks before I could work on it any more. I sketched up the hilt fittings based off a few originals my client had a chance to document, and based some of the proportions off this sword in Jeff Pringles collection. With my magical drawing in hand and boat shaped forms in my mind I began to forge the hilt components. I took a page from something Peter Johnsson taught me and made a punch the shape of the blade at the base to create my rough guard. Then it's time for drilling and sawing with a jewelers saw to create the correct slot to fit the tang tightly. I find it really nice to have a drawing to work from. My pieces aren't made perfectly in my minds eye and then on paper like Jake does, and the shapes and forms occasionally go through some changes, I find it really helpful to have a drawing that is roughly what I am after to base my work off of. Like you can see it is rough and quick but allows me to annotate and measure and riff off my design easily if need be. And shazam! Guard is polished and etched with the upper guard on the way. I chose some basswood I got from Jesus Hernandez. It is easy to work and robust, making good tight fitting channels in just a few minutes. Once the channel fits the tang properly I can glue the halves together and prepare for the rest of the grip work. I changed direction a little bit here and drilled and filed the upper guard to fit the tang and the rivets for the pommel. Here are most of the parts 'assembled' to get a feel for the size of things. A shot of the sword from the bottom, showing the character of the iron and the tang end to be peened over later. While I was working on the guards I decided to start the sheath core. Like usual, I'm starting with 1/16 inch poplar which I cut slightly oversized to fit the blade. I got some help from my girlfriend shearing some Icelandic sheepskin short enough to line the inside of the scabbard with. It is grained material, so you basically have two options, you can orient the grain in or out so that the sliding action is smooth going into the scabbard or out of it. I chose to have the action smoother for the draw, as I imagine a smooth draw is a little more important than a smooth re sheathing. The material does seem to soften up after a while, and the difference is now barely noticeable though at first it worried me. I like to use a worn out 36 grit belt and the flat platten to shape my wooden grips. I find I can make them very accurately and size them appropriately to the project. I account for the cord and then leather that will cover the grip. It should feel slightly emaciated when holding it in your hands at this stage. The beginning of the hemp wrap. And ready for leather! A leather wrap on its own is strong and can add structural strength to a grip, but cord added to the underwrap can really add a huge amount of resilience to your grip. Using hide glue and some other tips from Peter I begin to skive and prepare the leather for wrapping and gluing. After some diligent and careful work I can sleep and let it do its own thing over night. You'll probably have noticed the scabbard core. I glued the sheepskin to the inside of the poplar slats and then glued linen on top. The linen acts as a semi flexible cover to help the scabbard move and bend without breaking but allows it to remain rigid at the same time. This will be covered in leather later for durability against the elements and to further strengthen it. I have made the rough iron block the pommel will be shaped out of. I drilled holes and set pins to allow me to assemble the whole thing later. And filing time! A rough fit of the pieces to get an idea of where this is going, so far so good I think! Next I dyed the grip a nice dark brown using tape to keep dye from the pores of the iron. And the pommel is shaped and etched! Now for the silver wire inlay. Wrapped and soldered. I filed and forged in some spaces for the wire to lay, as well as the peen of the sword. And assembled! I don't have any photos of the actual assembly, it got kind of crazy and I forgot to get out my phone. So now that the sword itself was done the leather work was next. I had one bad application of leather and had to remove my work. After some careful wetting and pulling and cutting I was free of the old work, and could begin fresh. There is something beautiful even about failure. Undeterred (kind of, I had to wait a week for new leather to arrive) I began anew, and didn't take any photos of the process as leather work is quite stressful for me, and I spend most of the time the glue is malleable massaging and working the material to get it just right. I set up the risers to hug the leather cord I plan to use to attach the scabbard bridge later. I took a piece of maple I liked, and began with that worn out 36 grit belt. In about 15 minutes I was ready for filing and sanding. I use a pencil and files to mark out and create the indent for the leather cord to tie the bridge to the scabbard. And a few minutes later! Finished and oiled. Fairly low profile, to accent the graceful and quick feel of the blade. Next I finished stitching the scabbard, another fairly stressful task made more enjoyable with television and some choice beer. Late that night I finished stitching and was ready for the tying of the bridge. And finished! This sword took about 120 hours to make from start to finish. It was a hugely fun project and I hope to revisit the idea of a single edged sword some other time! For now other smaller pointy things lay in store for me!
  44. 8 points
    In another topic I document the progress of a rapier blade, here I will post pics and progress of a hilt that I wanted to make for a long time but did not dare because of the incredible time and effort needed for such a piece. I am no artist and not very artistically talented, so the result will not look like if Cellini or Negroli had made it . However, you have to start at some point... This is the original that it is based on: I will modify it because this is basically a sidesword hilt that doesn't give enough protection in the right spots for rapier fencing. The mods will become clear as I go along. Here is the humble beginning, just bent bars of carbon steel (the originals usually are made of softer steels, because it is easier to work with and they didn't have tools as good as we do). Furthermore I will heat treat the hilt so it is more resilient to damage when sparring. This awful lot of work should last at least some time. Next is lots of filing. I am using small machinists files, precision files and needle files (all from a very very good german company, St.Egydyer files). It looks quite rough in the beginning, and gets finer and more detailed later on. This project also made the decision to finally buy a pneumatic engraving system. We went for the Enset machine, because it can go at slow speeds and can chisel with power. So this another area that needs practising! This is going to be a longterm project, so please have some patience... If you have any hints or techniques to speed things up, please let me know!!
  45. 8 points
  46. 8 points
    So Emilliano had this blade he wasn't sure what to do with, and i had this set of wax fittings I'd been carving for a while as a side project, and Ashoken was 2 weeks away... The fittings started out as an attempt to reproduce these Z type fittings: For those of you who have Fedir Androshchuk's book Viking Swords, this is sword Dr12. Roughing in the parts: and the basic shapes finished: That was a crap load of work and I was getting ideas beyond reproducing the original, so at this point I made silicone rubber molds of the parts so I could take them in different directions. I like carving wax, so I decided to just kinda take off in a Urnes direction and carve up one set with intertwining serpents. You'll notice that the pommel pictured here is not the one on the sword. I carved it, but to my mind it wasn't working with the other parts the way I wanted. It was right about here that Emiliano and i decide to create Fingrbitr, so I had my work cut out for me. This is the pommel we ended up using, prepped for it's silicone mold. I could have cast the original carvings, but that can be risky and I thought i might want to use this set again so I made molds. The waxes are then fit to the blade. You don't have to do this, but it cuts way down on the fitting work when they are bronze. The bronzes were cast from the copies: Once cast there is a decent amount of clean-up to do - cutting sprues, removing bubbles, etc. Then it's back to fitting the parts to the sword again. Fitting them in the wax means that all I really have to do is some filing to account for the 2% shrinkage of the bronze. unfortunately I didn't take pictures of the handle process. Basically it's 20ga wire wrapped around a fitted wooden core with bands on the end to hold the wire on. I did smear the core with acraglas before winding, so it shouldn't move. After doing this core I'd recommend thinner wire for wrapping. 20 ga is very hard to work with even dead soft. I'm going to drop to 24ga for the next one, and looking at the few originals I think their wire might even have been thinner. So the friday of Askhoken this is where we were at 9:00am. Our mission? Get the damn thing put together quick enough that we wouldn't miss dinner. This is when Fingrbitr really earned its name... T
  47. 8 points
    Hi All Here is a new one, 3 bar blade cutting edge O1, 1095, 15N20 Total length 25.5 cm blade 13.5 cm, deer antler handle with bronze fittings (manufactured from out of circulation coins)
  48. 8 points
    My latest. The client is from Kentucky, hence the name. I thought it sounded mean too It is a harpoon point fighter that he commissioned. Some knives are a struggle and fight you ever step of the way. This one didn't. I mean, there were moments that it pissed me off, but it was never a struggle. The steel is differentially heat treated W2, so there is a hamon. Too bad the pictures are garbage for showing it. It was etched very lightly, so the hamon is frosty. Guard is of course, rust blued mild steel, which I never use Seppa is bronze, and so is the pin. The spacer is polished bone, and the handle is stabilized maple burl. Anyhow, here are some stats. Let me know what you think. Blade Length: 8.75" (22.2 cm) OAL: 14"
  49. 8 points
    As the title implied, these knives were born at the same time and came from the same design. I must confess, they are stock removal, but please be nice to me; I promise the next ones are forged. Stock removal knives are faster though (or fast for me which isn't really fast), and I had two commissions that needed to be made. So here they are. Steel: 1075, differentially hardened and etched. The pale knife's hamon is much easier to see in person. It's just a mild etch. Wood: Twin 1 is Cocobolo and Twin 2 is Stabilized Buckeye Burl. The lanyard beads for each are made from the same wood as the handle. OAL: 9.25" (23.5 cm) Blade Length: 4.5" (11.4 cm) Hope you like.
  50. 8 points
    As of yesterday - I hope you don't mind the big picture.
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