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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/02/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I got some forging time in this evening before the snow/hail mix started. Kept working on this little kiridashi style knife. I’m going to draw out the tang another inch or so and then work on Forging a story towards the tip. I don’t want to go any profile grinding on it, and a minimal amount filing on it.
  2. 1 point
    First, I put the handle in a Panavise and finish the profiles to 600 grit. On this handle it is absolutely critical that the two truncated corners are matched in size or the whole thing looks wrong. When I get done with the profile sanding, this is what I had. Now I mount the handle and spacers to each other and use the drywall screw to hold it all together. I shape the scales to match the spacer on the disc grinder. Because the shape is curved on the profile, the ends grind down faster than the center. Now the whole thing, all held together, goes back in the Panavise to even out the flats along the profile center. This is a lot of shoe-shining and hand rubbing to get it even and straight. Eventually going to 800 grit on all surfaces including the spacer package. This is now ready for file work on the frame and/or spacers. I will only file work the frame. The spacers will get a different treatment, ala Lin Rhea and his "intermediate forging" application. I'll post the guard shaping process tomorrow.
  3. 1 point
    Been checking in every so often. Looking pretty right! Thanks for the detailed steps.
  4. 1 point
    Thanks Chris. There's a few new uses coming for the 1/4" MDF I told you about. This handle is a classic coffin handle, but it will be a frame handle design. The process for making this basic shape is on page 2 of this thread. The process for making the blind alignment pins is on page 3 of this thread. The process for getting everything shaped is slightly different that it was with the hunter. For this knife, I will shape the spacer package first, and shape the handle to the spacer. I'm a big fan of making and using templates. I will make a template for the spacer package out of 1/4" MDF board. I buy this in 4x4 or 4x8 sheets and use it for all sorts of stuff. First I drill the holes in the MDF to match the holes in the spacers. I munt the spaces (still rough cut rectangles) onto the MDF and scribe the perimeter with a pencil. Then I pull a handy template out of my Gatorade can of fitting templates and using only one quadrant of the template, scribe the curves onto the MDF. I use only one quadrant so the new template is symmetrical in two dimensions. I cut that out and cut a notch in it so that it fits onto the ricasso. Load the spacers onto the tang and push them up tight (no guard in place), blacken the face with a Sharpie. and mount the template onto the ricasso and sitting flush on the spacers. Scribe the profile. While I have the spacers mounted, I scribe a series of lines on the face of the spacers, parallel to the ricasso face. Do both sides exactly the same. Now I remove the spacers and mount them to another piece of MDF and cut off the excess with the bandsaw. Cut off all the excess MDF, leaving the spacers attached to the rest of it and grind down to the line on the 2x72. This is the rough ground spacer package profiled to 320 grit.
  5. 1 point
    Beautiful blade, Josh.
  6. 1 point
    Finally got around to finish grinding those three yesterday. The hollow on the big Sakha one was tricky. Now the blades just need some hand work. I also forged a handful of puukkos today. The “copies of copies” phenomena also happens with these knives (though many modern adaptations are beautiful and functional in their own right), I’m trying to base these on examples from the Finnish national museum. Forging so many asymmetric knives admittedly has me a bit out of wack! I can usually crank out puukkos, but I’m not really happy with the forging on these ones (they came out too wide and the bevels aren’t very crisp). Should come out in grinding, but I’ll probably forge a few more to get back into the swing of it.
  7. 1 point
    Heat transfer. You won't be able to use a flame to heat just that area for stamping. Even if you kept the blade in water while heating then it would start spreading to the blade when you pulled it out to hot stamp it. Now, you could slowly cool it with a torch while the blade is still in water to temper, or even 'quasi-normalize', that area for cold stamping. You could also keep from hardening there in the first place if you wanted to.
  8. 1 point
    REALLY nice,Jennifer,thanks for all the additional photos. Great control of this challenging stuff,and good for you for appreciating all of it's wildness and beauty!:0 Great job,again,i'd bet it's a good tool.
  9. 1 point
    You guys might find these 3 photos interesting. This is how it ended up after welding and then I pulled the top down.. This is how I was able to keep the wrought iron together.. I'm not sure why, but I am attracted to the post weld shape.. I love the shape it has now for this hatchax.. But I think I see another carving hatchet in the mix.
  10. 1 point
    I think it's a true blessing to have someone mentor you like that, Josh. I've appreciated the personal help you've extended to me behind the scenes and on the open forum. I mentor as many wood carvers and furniture builders as are interested. It's very rewarding. After all, the crafts must grow.
  11. 1 point
    While I was grinding another couple of blades this morning I decided to see what I could do with the one I forged yesterday and have to admit it came out sort of ok. Because it was a big ish blade and way too thick to take down to a kitchen knife as I did want to leave the evidence of it having been forged (being the first i have done) so the only thing I could come up with was the bowie styled blade so that is what it will be. It is evident that I have got it a bit thin er in the canter than at either end but I am not going to fret over ths for now. I will see how it cleans up after the post HT grind and make a decision from there.
  12. 1 point
    Thanks Jake. The compaction was in the other direction (hardway) so on the flat it would just unravel.. The Grain flow did come out pretty good.. I love it when there is a deep groove or inset so the grain changes to match.. The top and bottom look beautiful. I don't have any with the handle in it but I do have some before the handle was put in just before hardening. The outside looking crack at the back does not go all the way through so comfortable it should hold up just fine. Thanks Alan. I think it might have been laid up from small round bar.. it was really cool how that back loose strip sheared on both sides of the pole before it was wrapped.. YOu can see the bar on the snapped side of the raw bar and where it ended up after the flanks were forged. As for refinement.. Your right.. Time was a factor and I didn't want to waste any more of the wrought than needed.. this Wrought was donated to me from a buddy at the NEB meets for a hammer build.. I still have enough for the hammer.. As for the wagon tire.. Is it raveling on the flat or the hard way? Or is it cracking in the fold? I did start to edit the video but it takes 6hrs - 8hrs to forge these, so not sure a video "How to" is appropriate.. I did have to push the cutting edge back in line some.. You can see in the pre hardening clean up photo the eye was a little bit over.. So, just after forging and clean up before hardening.. And after heat treatment.
  13. 1 point
    Man what I'd give to come and spend a week in your shop just watchin' what and how you do what you do, Josh. I like the way your mind works. Wish mine worked that way.
  14. 1 point
    I like it. Thanks for sharing. Hopefully I'll remember where this is if I need this in the future.
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