Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/21/2020 in Posts

  1. 7 points
    It turned out OK... Howdy.. OK this was suppose to be a really looong seax but...it sorta got away from me and well..this is what I wound up with.. I am so sick of doing the Japanese stuff that I needed to get something European done..so I wanted to do a three core Seax for that show we are going to next weekend as an eye catcher... you know... lure the unsuspecting in and then.. I got them!! It didn't quite turn out that way though... Now I started out welding up some 1070, L-6 and some SS heat treat foil in my starting faggot of 75 layers.. welded that up...drew that out and split off the cores and did a twist/counter twist off set interrupt and then welded on the edge steel...cut and did the tip...all was well...BUT.....this is where I got lost and this is what happens when I loose my train of thought and let my feeble mind wander all over..thought about doing something with a yelman and then that turned into something recurved and double fullered and then...well...it is a terrible thing when a mind melts into forge jello in the middle of a project..So here it is... Oh,..twin fullers are a PITA enough on a straight blade..on a curvy one??? ouch!! Blade length is 31"...two fullers each side..on to the Yelman and the other a wee bit short of the tip. Yelman length is 11 1/2" Fittings are forged phosphor bronze and the grip is fossil Bos Taurus Ivory.. This is one mean puppy of a sword..Looks like something out of E.R. Burroughs's John Carter series if you ask me...You will never know how many times I laid up on a hill side in my youth wanting to be taken to Barsoom...That didn't work either...I am starting to see a pattern here... Well here it is in all of its glory... Hope these photos work out. JPH (By the way I was 100% sober when I did his...alcohol had no part in the design...)
  2. 7 points
    18th century Cuttoe or small hunting sword with green grip as popular in the time period. Grip of green dyed curly maple, hand made solid brass hardware with gadrooning and liver of sulfur patina. Thrice folded carbon steel blade with heavy fuller on both sides. Blade 19.5 inches long Over all 24.5 www.irontreeforge.com
  3. 6 points
    My Lady Wife has been part of the local Fur Trade re-enactors group for a long time. This sheath was a gift from a friend in the group and it housed a cheap knife. When we moved years ago it got buried in the bottom of gear bag and it surfaced last year. I decided to make a blade for sheath and this is it. Random damascus blade about 7 inches long, elk tine and a osage spacer. Fast little sticker guy The sheath is brain tan deer over raw hide. The beads are typical trade stuff, probably high Plains style, Crow maybe or Shoshone. I think they look good together. Geoff
  4. 6 points
    Michael Bergstrom, the talented film producer and bladesmith who generously provided the filming of AF 2016 has recently released new videos from that event. He added them to the announcement topic, but I thought I'd post a new topic so you all didn't miss them. For those of you that don't know, AF 2016 was in two parts. Each smith did a practical demonstration of technique, and another presentation on the theme of the event, Grendel's Hoard from Beowulf. The demo videos have been out for about a year. Michael is now working to release the thematic presentations. Here is a link to his youtube channel. Also, I've pasted below his announcement from the AF thread. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCONxF6KdMJN9ymPa2pT5S6A/videos Cheers! Dave Chapter 1-3 have been posted online with the demos, over the next week all the videos will be online as well as several profile/in depth videos and a doc about the giants sword construction. A couple hours of new videos have gone up. Next week will be never before seen content though. Available for streaming: Chapter 1: Panel Discussion (Group) Chapter 2: The Mother's Dagger (Peter Johnsson) Chapter 3: The Material Culture of the Spear Danes (Pete Florianek) Owen Bush: Forging the Pattern of Undertow Dave Stephens: Multi-Bar Pattern Welding Tips and Tricks Jake Powning: Carving Waxes for Lost Wax Casting Petr Florianek: Pressblech Techniques Peter Johnsson: Antler Forming with Heat and Steam Petr Florianek: Carving Antler with Rotary Tools J. Arthur Loose: Gilding Techniques Upcoming Releases: Chapter 4: Hilting a Giant's Sword (Jake Powning) (01/25/20) Chapter 5: Undertow, the Giant's Sword (Owen Bush) (01/25/20) Chapter 6: Hrunting, The Sword That Failed (Dave Stephens) (01/27/20) Chapter 7: The Lyre of Lejre (J.Arthur Loose) (1/28/20) Chapter 8: Closing Discussion (1/30/20) Artist Profile: Peter Johnsson (FEB) Artist Profile: J. Arthur Loose (FEB) Artist Profile: Petr Florianek (FEB) Artist Profile: Owen Bush (FEB) Artisr Profile: Jake Powning (FEB) Creating "Undertow: Bloody Ripper of Tides" Documentary (TBD) Enjoy on YouTube on Wild Dog Creative channel where there is a custom playlist for Arctic Fire.
  5. 5 points
    I haven't forged san mai in ten years. This was a piece of nickel plated mild steel with 1085 core. Handle is fire hardened bamboo with raw hide wrap. Hand forged in coal. Will do a raw hide sheath tomorrow Thanks for looking.
  6. 5 points
    Alright, this is just the second knife I'm going to sell that wasn't a commission so I'm requesting your help for pricing . Blade is 2" wide at heel and just shy of 10" long. Finished to 1500. Handle is 416SS, G10 and cocobolo.
  7. 5 points
    Just finished these off... shame I have no gas for my forge. Was keen to give these a try. They are bolted together right now but once I can light the forge I'll use the bolt as a rivet. Any feed back?
  8. 5 points
    Got more work done on this 9.75" chef. The cocobolo appears clearer than last time I used it. It was from the same plank but shows different colors. I guess that's just how this wood is... Anyways, no tricky angled carving on this one, ergonomics first! And bolster was tricky enough
  9. 4 points
    Spent a couple of nights carving the handle of this one, and it's getting pretty close to what I originally envisioned when I started forging it:
  10. 4 points
    I finally got back to this project yesterday. The red bronze cast fittings on that small hunter had too many air bubbles when I sanded them down. I kept chasing voids. I recast them and had the same problem. So, I scrapped them and replaced them with 416 SS. Then I got the hardware for three more blades done. I had to redo a couple of the guards. (please don't ask why) I also got the frame handles laid out, profiled to 220 grit and ready to fit on the tangs. Just in time too. The mill's Z-axis broke and I still had two More pin holes in the Bowie frame to drill. I managed to redneck my way through those before I called it quits.
  11. 3 points
    Hi all! After a long time I signed there because I made new knife which is available. It is small knife overall lenght is 22,5 cm, blade 10 cm and handle 12,5. Welded blade is forged from old, broken springs of agriculture machine and from the bearings. These springs I found unders old oaks on Kovalovec meadows. Guard is from patinated bronze and on handle is small patch of cow bone, which I found on the way to the Skalica hills. Last part I bought from my friend and it is Palisander Honduras burl wood. Hand sewn scandinavian type sheath with leather inserts in the blade part. Leather, knitted lanyard with small decoration from same wood as on handle. Price 370 USD with shipping. Paypal accepted. Contact on me: jakubpetras.noze@gmail.com
  12. 3 points
    Little forged wood marking/kiridashi style knife for a fellow artisan. Completely forged to shape from a file end with forged finish edges. Smoothest forging I have ever done. Pretty amateur work for some of the people around here but I'm proud enough of it to give it away to a mates husband. Bevel was established with hammer then HT and tempered before grinding and polishing on king stones. Single bevel 8000grit edge. Shaves like a dream. Should be a small little handy tool.
  13. 3 points
    I find it varies for me on what I am trying to do.. If I have done the preform exactly 100% correct the metal is accounted for to get that crisp corner of the blade at the ricasso and choil. But I have also found it depends on the anvil I'm working on.. I have not figured out how to fully incorporate the side shelf.. Sadly in this video I have been having to preheat the anvil as it's so cold and I won't work on a cold anvil in fear of damaging it.. Not sure if you have seen the video on Tapers.. the 4lbs taper video shows a pulling motion and this can pull out this area really cleanly.. But, yes I am with you and usually teach using the peen for getting in there and doing a nice clean job. Thanks, I don't do many videos on knife making.. I was asked the direct question by another smith so this video ended up on the list. With this preform aspect and pre curves you could be all set with just a little bit of figuring out. Ooohh,, you are opening a whole discussion on keeping things centered on a blade profile.. that is a great subject.. Excellent, practice at applying this "preform " idea to your work.. You will find your forgings will go better with less finish work.. I forge my blade edges to nearly 1/16" but if you account for a little extra material you could stop shy of this, heat treat, temper and grind.. It would put you way ahead.. All of the videos I make are to teach a skill set.. they are all designed to be watched a couple of times. then go and forge something applying the information, then watch the video again. then forge again.. 3 or 4 of these watch and forge cycles and the person will have a very good grasp on the skill set.. All of the videos are designed to teach a skill. they are not really about the item made..
  14. 3 points
    Did a little horse trading- and now My shop-monster has her own anvil... a little 35 pounder Cliff Carroll to go with my new TFS -Now to get a stand built and her rocking the iron!
  15. 3 points
    Good evening, all. Here's the progress from this week. I've got everything plumbed in (except the propane tank), wired up and just now plugged it in and flipped the power switch on. No sparks! The main NC valve clicked open, the blower started, and when I turned the high flow switch to 'ON', that valve clicked open, and clicked shut when turned back to off. Nothing happened when I turned it to 'AUTO', but I'm not sure if that's something I need to worry about yet because I haven't done anything to program the PID.
  16. 3 points
    So, I have gotten to start playing with some methods that are outside my wheelhouse, lately, thanks to a new forge showing up under the Christmas tree. Initially, I just stuck a piece of O1 to a piece of mild, to see if I could, and it stuck really well, so I tried to make a little Sanmai sandwich of mild and 1095. That billet seemed to be pretty solid, so I figured I might as well make a test knife out of it, and see how it goes. I banged out a super simple drop-point blacksmith's knife and sanded it up to 330 grit before hitting it with some polishing paste and giving it a ferric chloride bath to see how it turned out. Overall, for my first ever attempt at a forge-welded blade, I would say it went pretty well. I'm guessing some carbon migration was going on to cause that dark cloudiness along the transition line? That, or maybe I just ground down too far? The only thing that really went wrong was a lovely *ting* in the quench--a hairline crack down the center of the spine. Surprisingly, in the middle of the 1095, not along a weld. To be fair, I was quenching in vegetable oil, not a proper quenching oil, but it's worked well for 1095, 5160, and O1 before now. Still, even with the crack, my girlfriend is going to use it around the house for light duty, so it shouldn't be a huge issue for that.
  17. 3 points
    I actually made this one back in October/November as a Yule gift for my girlfriend's Wiccan girlfriend, but realized I forgot to share it. We knew that she didn't have an athame (too expensive, she said, but she's the type to not feel like she NEEDS one, either), and figured it would be a nice gift. I'm not Wiccan, myself, but I tried to be considerate of her beliefs and intent, and my girlfriend provided me with input on that. The blade is recycled farrier's rasp (both the recycling and the connection to horses are good things for her particular beliefs), with a yew handle (apparently the best wood for magic conduction) and natural-death horsehide spacers (the horse connection again), and copper pins (also good for magic conduction). Since Wicca is big on 3's, doing a triple normalize/quench seemed appropriate, and I did it on the night of a Full Frost Moon. She was very excited to unwrap it, and I hope it serves her well, even if I don't totally get it
  18. 3 points
    A Leuku blade I bought (from Knivsmed Strømeng) on a trip to Norway several years ago. I started on the handle 2 years ago, and now finally got around to finishing it. Handle is Yew and Reindeer antler with brass. I also made a traditional sheath for it, but without the wooden core.
  19. 3 points
    Been a busy week. Got some hides, 2 full Nguni hides and 2 smaller antelope. Started with the antelope and processed into raw hide. Forged out some bearings And then made a frontier sheath
  20. 2 points
    I've been really getting into hammer making with my new power hammer and even before I got my hammer I was forging them by hand and using my homemade power hammer. This I believe is going to be my signature hammer along with my Japanese style bladesmiths hammers. Starting stock was a 4 lb chunk of forklift tine. punched a round hole under the power hammer. Bolster i made for driving out the "slug" here is the eye after punching. used a small fullering tool to start the fullers in front and behind the eye. then started to draw out the peen using the fullering tool. The peen ended up with too much material so I used a hot cut tool under the power hammer. This is what was cut off. Kinda a crappy picture but I never claimed to be a photographer. Now I proceeded to fuller out the peen and in front of the eye with a larger fuller. And start to drift the eye. Here is a picture of the fuller and the drift I use. The drift is made if stainless steel. Surprisingly holds up pretty good. I have one made from H13 I need to finish grind and will replace this one. I have a special bolster I made for drifting the eye from the underside. And here is the final forged hammer. Total weight after scale loss and cutting a bit off is 49.7 ounces or 3.1 lbs. I hope everyone enjoys this thread as much as I enjoyed making the hammer. Thank you Jeremy Blohm
  21. 2 points
    I think some of the 'anvils' are in fact drifts as you suggest. If you want to have a look at other finds, here is a search in the Norwegian finds database. Hammers: http://www.unimus.no/foto/?fbclid=IwAR2uQRcqng4jPq3ouSTCMVKKKFrQzDmXnI1s71C7Wa-5eDcEORAnJevwopg#/search?q=hammer vikingtid Tongs: http://www.unimus.no/foto/?fbclid=IwAR2RV_49sNPBLikxcKfikkfmngxhcjPGBHZwcW-ZzKp9V0VZmo4xNR5JQkM#/search?q=tang vikingtid Anvils: http://www.unimus.no/foto/?fbclid=IwAR1Ug_XRXyU4hC0PnW73OFmahse-47PDjx7wACnRwZASpCyEPEDXTfP4TGI#/search?q=ambolt vikingtid
  22. 2 points
    "If Mamma ain't happy, ain't nobody gonna be happy" Learned that over 50 years and 4 wives ago!
  23. 2 points
    These, and a burial context or three, are the only surviving ones I know of. Jim Austin makes good reproductions based on these finds. https://forgedaxes.com/classes/all-classes/viking-style-blacksmithing-hammer/ http://warehamforgeblog.blogspot.com/2014/02/viking-age-forging-hammers.html I asked because none of them have that short heavy fuller behind the face. There is a sway there for sure, though. Good forging, and good toolmaking regardless!
  24. 2 points
    Been working on the carving for this on for the past couple of days, and got the first side pretty much done:
  25. 2 points
    Columbians are great. If it's what it looks like I'd have dislocated my shoulder trying to get to my wallet by now...
  26. 2 points
    I finally had time to watch the second video, and I'm pinning this thread. There's just so much good info presented in both videos it's amazing! I especially liked the second video where you're filing and talking about filing. I LOVE filing and files. There's a couple of threads about that down in the fit and finish subforum, and as I'm always telling people to get the biggest file they can find for the first rough work, it made me deliriously happy to see you demonstrating just how quickly you can get the job done with the right file. Bravo!
  27. 2 points
    Looking better. I think this one will look very nice with a 600 grit satin finish on it.
  28. 2 points
    I managed to get into the shop today, the first time since November due to a reoccurring bout of pneumonia, While I was away from the shop I had an idea. to shape the bevels on my blades I have used a filing jig, although slow it enabled me to get the bevels symmetrical, I struggled with this on the belt grinder!. I drilled a hole in the grinder handle and inserted a length of stainless rod. For the guide rod, I then welded two washers on to a vine eye, for the front guide and drilled them out to accept the guide rod.......... Simple! It seems to work well although I haven't tried it properly, yet. But when tested on a scrap piece of 1075c a clean bevel was formed, I think that with a little practice this will be an invaluable tool in my workshop.
  29. 2 points
    And I took the chisel apart to give it a proper finish since originally I had to run when I was done at the video shoot.. Sadly the orginal washer got cracked when I tried to open it up some when it was cold to fit it a little better. so had to make a new washer.
  30. 2 points
    Hello. Not so long ago became the owner of this Viking spear. There are not many mentions of wolf teeth spears on the net. Perhaps this topic contains the largest number of images of such copies. And only thanks to this topic I understood what I'm dealing with. The spear was mechanically cleaned of oxides and etched pattern on the blade.
  31. 2 points
    Got more work done on this "little" thing. Next is glue and handle carving.
  32. 2 points
    Well, as promised, here is my first forged knife. It was forged at David Moonyham’s shop. He can correct me if I’m wrong, but I don’t think he physically hammered on the knife. I did all the work…………..with his verbal guidance, of course. Thanks to him for that because I could never have done it without his help. (and his forge, anvil, hammer and HT oven) It is made of 80 CRV2 and heat treated in his oven. (I don’t have all the equipment I need to be doing this yet.) First two pictures of the rough forged knife. I didn’t find out until later I’d forged hollows on both sides of the blade, so it ended up being a narrower blade from top to bottom by the time I got the bevels ground in. Third picture is of the design I planned, based on the forged shape. Fourth pictures is of the blade after I’d ground and skeletonized it. Fifth and Sixth are of the finished knife. So there you go. My first forged knife. I had a ton of “firsts” with this knife…………so many I won’t bore you with them all. Can’t begin to tell you how much I learned in the process. There are things I’m not terribly happy about, but like I told David………….”Hey, it’s my first forged knife!”. So now it’s time for me to pour a cup of coffee, sit down and ask all of you knife makers to honestly critique my work. I have a video of it but don't know how to post a vid on the forum.
  33. 2 points
    Okay, okay, I can take a hint! Here it is alongside the one Owen Bush made for me. With dual-scale ruler. The short heavy one weighs 3.5 lbs/1.6 Kg, and Owen's is about 2.2 lb / 1 Kg. You can really see how the short one tapers to put all the mass right behind the face. It's currently dressed like a rounding hammer, but I'm slowly flattening the face from time to time. Owen's is flat. The short one started life as a saw-doctor's hammer, used to tune big circular saw blades so they ran true. As such, it had a very domed face. I flatten it a little every time I use it, but I'm fairly happy with it in its current state. We'll see.
  34. 2 points
    1770s Smallsword I finished up recently. Forged and heat treated triangular blade with hand etching. Forge welded loop hilt and pineapple pommel hand filed with pure silver accents. Mahogany grip. 30.5 inch hollow triangular blade 37 overall Balance 1.25 from hilt 20.4 oz total weight
  35. 2 points
    Last week I stopped into my friend Tom Tasker's forge and we worked on this blade together. It's stretched out of a rail clip like the one next to it by hand which I've heat treated many times and it takes a pretty impressive hamon. They are higher carbon that the spikes and growing up with a railroad through the property was something I used to use a lot. The fuller was done pre beveling with the guillotine tool pictured, its offset 45' to its frame so it can be used to draw material lengthwise too. There is a little bar and tube on the post that can be swiveled to act as a backstop or guide to help stay in the groove. Its pictured here without the lower die or hardie peg on it yet. Will update with a complete pic of the tool later. Kind of stressful forging ha, would be very easy to make a big unfixable ding in the fuller groove but it worked out well. Dies are gapped about an 1/8th inch so the fuller is a uniform depth. Will be grinding and posting pictures of it as it progresses. No grinding has been done to the blade yet so that is all forge work shown. Tried to get as much blade as I could out of the hunk of steel
  36. 2 points
    Nice looking bars there @Joshua States sorry to hear about the equipment. I got strings on this thing! Still needs lots of work, but I got to hear its voice at least. I'm getting used to not having fret markers and getting used to the fat and wide neck. Managed to play just a short while before it was out of tune. I think the nut needs polished up or cut to a bigger size.
  37. 2 points
    Here are a few shots of that tool, the hardie peg is 1/4 flat bar and it fits diagonally into the hardie hole, and is slotted so you can beat a wedge into it to lock it to an anvil. The dies are gapped, but the bottom one takes spacers to make the gap smaller for thinner cross sections. The hole on the underside next to the hardie peg is for if dies or spacers get stuck. The tool takes different dies too, cutters, flatters, basically whatever fits. I made them out of leaf spring.
  38. 2 points
    Hello, Recently commissioned Yakutian blades. Multilayered damascus blade from carbon steel and wrought iron and the other two from bearing steel. All roughly the same size: total length 230mm, blade length 150mm, width 30mm, thickness 5mm Thank you for looking. Jacek
  39. 2 points
    I think the theme should be seasons. Pick a season you identify with or like the most, and create something that thrives in that element. For instance I am partial to Winter and would make something severe and cold. Perhaps a spring theme could be that of renewed life and warmth, and fall decay and darkening, and summer warmth and sun. I think it could be a great exercise to create something thematic that doesn't necessarily have to relate back to mythology or history, but can be influenced by them all the same.
  40. 2 points
    Almost done with this first bevel on the full flat bushcraft knife, we are 4-5 hours in and I’m very close to being done. Then I have to repeat it all on the other side..
  41. 2 points
    Thank you. Its not a very common style. Its one of my theory of how these blades could look like. I think they could have been made from splited bone in the past. If they would have shoulder at the tang they could break easily. the handle is mounted the same way as the other hidden tang blades. one of my first one yakut knife with this type of blade
  42. 1 point
    That's the video i just uploaded to him. Its the same as the one on the Arctic Fire playlist. His video is Chapter 2, the other chapters are on the Arctic Fire playlist above. Thanks for watching! Lots more coming!
  43. 1 point
    So back in late November I was asked by the Early American Industries Association member if I would be interested in doing a video for them. I could use his shop and he would get another member who is a photographer and older film maker.. Of course I said sure as I love to support organizations that fall in line with my blacksmithing alignments.. So the first week of December I had my buddy George Becker go over to the Moses Wilder Blacksmithing shop in Bolton, MA and he swung sledge to make up the story board out of 5/8" wrought iron. Weekend before last we met at the shop and I proceeded to forge at the chisel seen in the photo. I did not do the ferrules or the wood work. I basically forged the blade, heat treated it and put on the initial sharpening and split. Leaving the handle and handle work to the Owner of the blacksmithing shop. Here is a link to the video as well. Was fun.
  44. 1 point
    Try getting a copy of The Archaeology of Weapons by Ewart Oakeshott. It has plenty of drawings and black and white plates of swords of various ages. It's not an expensive book and is a good one for any library. Records of the Medieval Sword by the same author is filled with illustrations and appendix B deals with engraving and lettering. To my recollection from the reading that I've done swords from the "wording" is usually in Latin. The reason that I put wording in quotation marks is that some of the lettering was abbreviations for longer phrases. I don't know Latin but a sword could be engraved something like HMMOCPFMNAATHOMD, which is long enough by itself, standing for Holy Marry Mother of Christ pray for me now and at the hour of my death. The long version would not be impossible to engrave and enlay but the lettering would have to be small and very labor intensive to do. Or the blade could be engraved with something short like Homis Dei meaning man of God. Supposedly this was common on Templer blades. Doug
  45. 1 point
    Hello: Here is the first sword I finished in 2020...The blade is 1070..the Hamon.. well, I dunno what to call it... Togari Gunome maybe?? finished with temple lion motif fittings from my art foundry guys in Taiwan..They do a great job..yes they do!! Much better than an old ham handed reprobate like I could do..... Black samegawa under that black and gold Chevron Tsuka-ito that I adore.. This is another proto for book IV which is coming along splendidly even if I do say so myself.. The siya is black lacquer that I dripped/ "flicked" Testors model airplane paint (metallic gold) on and then sealed with 6 coats of hard, clear lac.. I got the idea from a siya that one of my friends down here showed me a while back...turned out non too shabby but there is still room to improve on that...I do know I need to find a better price on that stuff..it is $$$...Hope the photos work out... Note: This Hamon didn't turn out like I wanted.. I was going for more of a crashing/breaking ocean wave/surf sort of thing but that isn't what happened.. Like I have said before...Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted to.. Happy 2020... JPH
  46. 1 point
    I Forgot to say that I'm happy you are going to try folders this year!
  47. 1 point
    I've been using 1075 for my springs. I quench just like I do the blade, then temper the spring to 530F (276c). The spring usually gets tempered with the blade each cycle, and then one extra cycle at the higher temp, but I just do this for convenience and have no idea waht it does to the metallurgy. I've been using smaller pins than that, but I think it depends on the scale of the knife. Lately I have been using 1/16" (~1.5mm) pins to hold the scales on and the spring in place. I like using 1/8" (~3mm) pins for the pivot. My blades have been between 2.5" and 3". I literally use a 1.5oz hammer to peen the pins. Lots of light taps. I try to get the holes tighter than 0.1mm. Depending on the pin stock you are using, you may be able to get away with the exact drill size. Alternately, I use some 0.001" over-sized reamers.
  48. 1 point
    Dan P posted a great grinding video yesterday, and mentioned the same channel had a lot of good stuff. It does indeed. Most of us have seen this video of a Sheffield smith forging pocketknife blades: but I found one that shows what happens afterwards! If you have ever made a folder, you need to watch this. You will laugh, cry, curse, and finally give up. But it is inspirational to see just how easy it can look...
  49. 1 point
    This is the knife I made for the challenge project that @Joshua States put up in the Beginners Place forum. I just finished up the sheath this morning. It's made from reclaimed spring steel and has a 6" blade. The handle is African Blackwood scales with mild steel fittings. A family friends son is graduating from basic training in a couple of weeks and this will be on it's way to him. I want to say thank you again to Joshua for posting his challenge projects. There's a few firsts for me with this blade that I probably would not have done otherwise. As always comments and critiques are very welcome.
  50. 1 point
    I made the purchase of a lifetime!!! For a total of $7420.40 USD I bought the 40 kg/88 lb self contained power hammer this does not include duty fees/taxes at the border. I was going to start this thread when I go to pick it up but I'm too excited to hold off! So far if my wifes enhanced license comes in by June 28th were going to get it that weekend. The machine on the left is the one I'm getting. It stands 70 inches tall and weighs 2280 pounds.
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
  • Create New...