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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/04/2020 in Posts

  1. 7 points
    So I do a lot of reading on this forum and occasionally ask questions. You all have been a big help to me in my blade making! So thank you for all your tips that helped me complete this project. So many first on this one! Thanks Jake Cleland and Alan for answers to parts of the build that were totally new to me! Blade is forged from the leaf springs of a 94 Chevy. Blade is 9 5/8“ long and 3/16 at the spine. Handle is Osage Orange from my fathers farm. So after 1 1/2 years I can call it finished!!
  2. 7 points
    52100 / 416 SS San Mai, stainless dovetailed bolster with maroon linen micarta scales.
  3. 6 points
    Antiquity and Early Middle Ages, axes. Four of the engravings are forged from old-welded iron.
  4. 5 points
    Here is one I just finished up from a farriers rasp. I was originally going for more of a stiff boning Blade but decided to grind it thinner and give it more of an upward sweep. It still is on the stiff side but has enough flex and edge retention. I put a buffalo horn end cap which I could have fitted better but decided to keep it a bit rough to fit with the rustic look. I am actually thinking of doing a full kitchen set like this.
  5. 5 points
    Chill, gentlemen. It's what Alec wanted, and if you watch the video he abuses the heck out of it and it survives. Sure it's expensive, it's made in USA and has a youtube influencer's name attached. Price one of Jymm Hoffman's H13 colonials or one of Holland Anvil's German patterns, they're in the same range per pound. If you don't want one don't buy one. If you want it cheaper, make one yourself. Call up a foundry and get a quote for a one-off in an anvil-worthy alloy. You'll think this one is cheap.
  6. 4 points
    Slabbed up a maple burl that's bit sitting around for years. I found this at one end.
  7. 4 points
    I started this last week while waiting for a shredded tyre to be replaced. It is inspired by the Carrigan Knife, though I've taken a few liberties. Blade is differentially hardened 1095, a little over 1/8th" thick. Handle frame is fileworked 1095. Scales are 6000 year old bog oak. It has a sculpted nickel silver blade collar and back strap, folded NS bolsters, brazed NS scabbard mounts, and NS pins. The only metal fittings which aren't Nickel silver are the frame itself, the Sam Browne which is turned from mild steel and soldered in place, and a 0.3mm sterling silver washer between the blade collar and handle frame. The sheath is made from laminated heavy card from the back of a sketch pad, covered with goatskin. It's a take down construction, and the blade is dismountable for cleaning/sharpening. This ended up being a fair bit more difficult than I'd anticipated, but I'm pretty pleased with the result... Anyway, pics: . let me know what you think.
  8. 3 points
    My son and I went to a nearby woodland a couple of weeks ago, hoping to photograph the local wildlife, We didn't even see a sparrow, the woodland was empty!, Got a couple of good sunset pictures though
  9. 3 points
    After a bit of sanding and etching in vinegar
  10. 3 points
    Sorry Chris, hope these dodgy pics help. next one Brian
  11. 3 points
    It was a little too hot to do any forging today but was a good day for checkering handles:
  12. 3 points
  13. 3 points
    This is my first adventure into the world of multi billet pattern welding, and I expect not my last. The layers are as follow, for the spine it is some wrought iron gifted to me by a friend for this specific project, the middle is about 10 layers of 15n20 and 1084 twist and the edge bar is some wonderful W2 gifted to me by Dave Stephens. The construction may be new to me but I picked a familiar style for the blade, that being the seax. With a rough idea of wanting to do a Frankish narrow seax I set to work, the photos follow the the basic outline of my steps. First getting all the pieces tig welded together then actually forge welding them, next the blade was roughed out (bottom) and lastly the most recent shot of a test etch done on it by my friend and collaborator Michael Bergstrom. The blade has already been handed off to him in preparation for him starting the handle. I hope y'll enjoy it! and I can't wait to be posting photos when they get in of the handle.
  14. 3 points
    Felt like something a little more artistic today
  15. 3 points
    Began on this one last Monday to see how fast I could make a decent piece. Originally thought I was going to make a french style long dagger but as I worked my mind wandered as is usual It's overall length is 72cm with a blade length of 56cm. I wanted a stiff thrusting blade so the distal taper is quite minimal and linear going from 7mm at the guard to 3mm near the tip. I did pay for that stiffness with almost 100grams more weight than I had aimed for at 746grams of total weight with the point of balance 5cm from the guard. It still feels so very light and nimble. Just recently found a place I could buy solid brass wire wheels and that was my main excuse for brassing the guard and pommel to add a little bling and I think it goes nicely with the red grip. The grip yes, my leather skills are still quite lacking as I prefer messers and their wood grips so far from perfect but it's getting better each time
  16. 3 points
    Post up a photo of the broken axe if you can.. It might be repairable. Also if you don't mind me asking what were the weather conditions when it broke? Winter perhaps? I made this ax for heavy felling work.. With this said. the blade as explained before is designed for wear and the top, tip is always the wearing point with bad swings and such when a tree is on the ground and one is tired. This leading cutting edge is super handy for limbing as it gives just a little extra lead so leads to a slicing action. For overall size it's pretty light at only 3.75lbs head weight and is designed to be sharpened then redressed at least 2 times over it's life span.. Something which was not done that often since most would just buy a new ax or would get an older one resteeled. here you can see both the Hatchax and the Felling axe have a leading edge.. The ax head is mounted square to the handle so it is actually the cutting edge that is pulled forwards some. You can see the smaller Hatchax doe not have a leading edge any longer.. This hatchax is in need of a forge redress and heat treatment.
  17. 3 points
    This won't be everyone's cup of tea, but I thought I would share my progress on this as I go along. My family spends the 4th of July holiday in Sheboygan every year, and we spend a lot of time walking along Lake Michigan. Each year I look at all the drift wood thinking it would be nice to make some kitchen knives for us all to use that have driftwood handles from our trip. However, drift wood looks cool as a piece of wood, but I've never thought it would look all the great as handle material. I've been doing a lot of wood stabilization lately, and thought I should bring back some really punky pieces and see what is inside. This is some of what I brought back sliced into 1/2" thick planks: (Toes left in the pic for scale ) It's not presentation grade ironwood burl, but I'll stabilize these, and then probably resin cast them to see what I get. I'm pretty hopeful that I get some scales for a family kitchen knife with some meaning. Stay tuned...
  18. 3 points
    I got my first real look at the pattern tonight. I decided to remove the ricasso from this one. I think it looks better without it. I'm still debating one what style of guard to give it. I have enough of the blade steel left to do either a guard or a butt cap. What do you think? Use it or make them from 416?
  19. 2 points
    52100 core with 416 SS Maroon linen micarta and dovetailed SS bolster
  20. 2 points
    Hello everyone! This is an 8" santoku I just finished. It was forged from 1084 with a buffalo horn bolster, a stabilized spalted beech handle, and a copper pin. This is my first time working with buffalo horn and stabilized wood and both are interesting to work with. I figured I'd share how I forge and finish since everyone does things a bit different. I started with 8" of 1/4" x 1-1/2" 1084. I start by setting the shoulder and drawing down the tang. I think it was about 1-1/2" from the end. Next, I put the point on the bar, keeping the blade at 1/4" thick. Starting with the tip, I use my cross peen to begin drawing the bevels down, working my way towards the heel. By starting in the middle, I ensure that the edge doesn't overheat. Using the cross peen, I'm able to get the width I want without adding any appreciable amount to the length. The final forging. There are some things I would do differently, but I'm over all happy with the way that it turned out. The rough grind. My new 2x72 grinder with a 24 grit belt makes things so much easier and faster! Hand finishing after hardening. I put the hole in the buffalo horn bolster and then polish the face of it. The green stuff is just buffing compound that I hadn't cleaned off yet. I didn't like the angle of the tang, so I ground the top down and shortened it a bit. The spalted beech glued on. I drew the tang on so I'd know where to drill the holes in the end of the handle. It has an added bonus of letting me know where to drill the hole for the copper pin. I roughed out the handled on the grinder with a 24 grit belt (those things are seriously amazing), then hand sanded to 600 grit to get a good polish on the buffalo horn.
  21. 2 points
    Well Billy, that’s a great question, any time I've attempted to influence my wife, in my favor, by the subtle use of wine, has not gone well. Sooo I’m thinking better to ask for forgiveness rather than permission and have the wine myself
  22. 2 points
    Your wife, whom I’m sure is an intelligent, supportive and understanding partner, is, well, simply wrong. I, on the other hand dabble in the dark art of bladesmithing for a couple of hours over the weekend in an 8x14 space with little to no opportunity for expansion. I could take over my twin 6 year old daughters play room however thinking my intelligent, supportive and understanding (at the minute) partner may have a differing version of “need”. Hmmm, power hammer. Maybe I might see how much clarity another glass of red may bring.
  23. 2 points
    This type of blade construction was rather common in early medieval in central and northern Europe during Viking age. The blade consists of three parts: high carbon steel on the cutting edge, a twisted pattern-welded bar in the middle, and a simple pattern-welded bar on the back of the knife. To forge it I used a scrap metal (as usual in my projects) but this time the scrap metal was very special. I used old bloomery iron and wrought iron nails/bolts/rivets which were found in the Dziwna River in Wolin in the place of the old shipyard/harbor during the building of the new marina (Wolin is the historical site (Viking age city)), every new investment must be supervised by archeologist. This was also the case here but they were not interested of nails :-), so I collected it.
  24. 2 points
    Enjoy the time off. Rest up. Heal quickly. Around here we call them sucker rods. Typically in the 4140-4160 range. Very useful for punches, chisels, drifts etc.
  25. 2 points
    its a rather old commercial way of doing it. While I weld the eye closed using the scarfs before inserting the steel which then leaving a gap for the steel to sit in in a separate welding heat. Using this method when perfected the steel and eye weld can be completed at the same time. thanks, You are right on the bevel and rounded out center section of the blade.. It does help to keep the blade from sticking and leverages out of a cut easier. I am often dismayed today that most axes and hatches made are flat bladed.. Not really great for deep cuts with little sticking. Its nice seeing someone else who understands this. I left his a little straighter along the cutting edge than I like with not as much Ovaling but she sure cuts nice.. This axe also has some extra material for wear.. It will take about 10 to 15 resharpenings and then it will be it's correct shape.. As it is now it has a leading top cutting edge which works well.
  26. 2 points
    I’m a little late to this but oh boy we have had a lot going on!! Because four out of the six in my family had a bad bout with pneumonia in February and March we decided to evacuate Ecuador and sit out the virus in rural Kentucky. So we put a garden in. We eat a lot of eggs so why not get a few chickens! Well buying chickens leads to needing a place to keep them so I built a chicken tractor. Also I have been working on furniture to make the house more comfortable. It helps when your dad has a pile of old barn wood!!
  27. 2 points
    Anyhow after finishing the rest of the bottle and halfway through the second one, this is the result. It all started from wanting a 10c rivet. I blame you all for fostering this obsession.
  28. 2 points
    So I know it’s been a couple of months but life has been crazy!! So I went with the Sil Fos and it has worked great!! Finally have the Dirk and scabbard all finished up!! Thank you for all your advice!! Aaron
  29. 1 point
    Thanks Rob, very nice spear head! Really well done socket
  30. 1 point
    This covid 19 is a real nightmare!, we were on lock down in the UK and I was off work for almost 3 months and loved it, Typically, 3 weeks ago I got the call on a Friday night to return to work on Monday ,... But I hadn't finished my latest blade project, 3 kitchen knives for my daughter, I didn't have any time to get back in the shop, until this evening, I got home after a typically manic and stressful Friday, I was in a foul mood, I sparked up the forge and heat treated the 3 blades, the middle sized one warped 4 times before I was happy with it, I got burnt by the charcoal sparks and quenching oil when I quenched the largest blade, and covered in charcoal soot........ It's happiest I've been for 3 weeks
  31. 1 point
    Well, here's the final product. I know two things that I need to work on (forging more to finished shape, distal taper). Would appreciate any suggestions to make the next on better. Specifics of the knife again are: 192 layers random 15N20 / 80CrV2 7 inches from tip to front of riches 7/64" thick at ricasso ~1.75 " wide at heel Handle is "Gerhard micarta", brass spacer, patagonian rosewood And as always, thank you for your time. A special thanks to Gerhard for the idea of the wrap micarta. Really good stuff. Made a second block just to test to destruction. Has a tang slot and everything. 10 good whacks with a 16 oz ball peen hammer on an anvil and not even a chip. Haven't destroyed it yet...
  32. 1 point
    Impressive first piece! You might find something helpful here http://matthewdwalker.com/damascus_notes.pdf Copy it if you want, for reference. The site may not be up a lot longer.
  33. 1 point
    I'll look forward to seeing that, Rob.
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    Not sure where but I think it was a youtube video by a participant that gave some insight about the behind the scenes stuff, including wardrobe, which I found kinda funny. They have to make a viable TV show at the end of the day, which obviously comes with challenges. My biggest gripe for the first seasons was tempering was never shown or even mentioned, I'm sure they didn't hear me complain so I guess a lot of people remarked on that. In later seasons they mentioned each time the blades had been tempered, and even better with the new show that step is included. My hair stands up when I get the impression that a contestant is building a persona that would make them more likely to be brought back, too showbiz for my liking but unavoidable as the show grows I guess. Also recently watched a Q&A by Alec Steele and Will where they said they were unlikely to ever take part, I find that sad because they are very skilled young smiths, and those are my favourite winners. I believe there's more good than bad to the show, and any person who gets to the point where they heat up a piece of steel and beat it with a hammer should know the basics well enough to look around the BS, at best learn something, or at least be inspired. By the time you end up here it's too late for you anyway
  36. 1 point
    Doooo eeet! Dooo eeet now!
  37. 1 point
    It was predicted to reach 112 degrees out today. So at 0630, I decided to fire up the forge for some welding work.
  38. 1 point
    I like it as well, they have plenty champions they can recycle and this improves the level of competition. My ambition of taking part in an international edition is dead, won't be able to make anything inside those time limits. @billyO I doubt you'd find a proper copy on youtube......and if you do it won't be up for long.
  39. 1 point
    I love it when I learn something from someone's post.
  40. 1 point
    I like the central ridge you've incorporated. A detail that is usually missed in making felling axes is that oval shape that have they have in cross section. I always believed that was done to act as a release so the head wouldn't get stuck in green wood. Your handle also looks nice and springy!
  41. 1 point
    That came out pretty dang nice Jennifer. I like those raised welding ribs. I hadn't seen that method or shape before.
  42. 1 point
    Seeing as you asked, I'm a fan of high contrast. So I would opt for a 416 Guard, backed by a PW spacer and crown that with a butt cap from the blade steel. If you can get one of those crosses onto the butt of the handle, that would seriously set this off. Oh and I would keep the cross theme going in the guard. double branch with crosses top and bottom.
  43. 1 point
    Thanks fellas, I cut a good long solid shaft. I am 6’ 4” and the tip of the spear is the height of the top of my fingers when held straight up. Feels like a formidable weapon. Anyhow some more fun at the forge today playing with sockets. Harpoon head and boning knife. Boning knife heat treated but I have yet to do final grind and clean up.
  44. 1 point
    Go man go...Shine on you crazy diamond!
  45. 1 point
    Shurap does good work...
  46. 1 point
    Oh I'm sure it will turn out more than OK Gary.
  47. 1 point
    Ok let's do this again. I had lost weight before from the mishap so I added a pound or so of W2. Calculating the estimated carbon of the puck and the new steel addition, the carbon was estimated to lower to a more workable 1.7ish. The new puck is 5 pounds. The surface I dendritic in places and the dirty ferric etch shows grain boundary cementite in most areas with pockets of heavier dendrites. I'm estimating carbon at 1.6-1.7% currently. It may change when I mix up some Nital again.
  48. 1 point
    I've been working on other projects recently but got time to forge this blade this evening after work:
  49. 1 point
    I'll let the others comment on how stable the wood will be. However I just pm'd you about stabilizing. Hit me up if you want.
  50. 1 point
    Geoff is so right. I remember the first request I turned down. Way back, in the late 80's I had no interest in making a sword. My wife, at that time, worked with a couple of women who, with their husbands, we're members of the SCA. ( medieval recreators). One of the husbands got all excited when he found out I had made a couple of knives. He insisted on coming over to talk about his "project" he wanted. This guy was making about minimum wage but he wanted a sword. I had the Museum Replicas catalog and told him to show me what kind he wanted. He pawed throughout it and came up with a design. I asked him what he wanted that was different than the one in the catalog? "Nothing really, I just thought you could make it cheaper". The one he wanted was $120. I was still young enough to be a tad insulted. My response was. " So, you think that I can compete with the labor costs of a whole company that has its work done in India, by a group of people who each get paid less per day than you or I spend on lunch?"......... It went downhill from there. The fact was that, at knifemaking, I was greener than spring grass but I did have a smidgeon of business sense. I loved approval for my work whether knifemaking or remodeling houses but I had taken the time to think about what it would take and had decided that around $400 ( circa 1989) was going to be the starting point for "negotiations". I never regretted not taking that on despite the wife's later advice that it would be "A foot in the door" with that whole group. If I did the best I could for so cheap they would all expect me to keep working that cheap. A "door...to...hell" is what I told her it was. Uhm, yes, that is the real point that drives most of us....being good at it and getting better constantly. There is little point to doing it otherwise. I wouldn't want to do anything if I didn't feel I was good and getting better at it. Despite your best business efforts there are times when all you walk away with is lunch money and a warm fuzzy feeling. We all dream about the day we are "discovered" like teenagers with a garage band, but until that day we had better be doing it because we love it and we are improving our "chops" every time. I still have a Fender Strat and A Gibson SG along with a Crate tube amp. Never made a dime with them. Yes there are people who make pretty good money making swords, from time to time, on this forum but for everyone who manages to just break even there are lots who want to start out at that level and end up with a lot more "want" than cash to show. It reminds me of an old story I heard in business circles about a guy during the great depression. He was on the side walk with a small box of apples and a sign that read " apples, $50 ea." Someone ask him " do you sell many apples at that price?" The guy replied "At that price I don't have to". Not a Sterling business model though. Reality in knifemaking is somewhere around selling enough apples to recoup expenses and trying to make more than a McDonald's burger flipper. Just something to think about. A member here was nice enough to post pictures of a knife he owns. The work of that maker was one of the biggest incentives for me. That 'Smith didn't have much more in equipment back then than a lot of weekend hobbiests have today yet I am willing to bet if someone would do this kind of work they could sell knives well above the price of flat stock removal knives. All they would need is the will to develop the skill.
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