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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/26/2020 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Here's where I left this! Got some carving done today.
  2. 6 points
    5 of 6 are now done. One is on the injured/reserved list after a catastrophic bluing accident.
  3. 5 points
    Low layer Damascus, vinegar etched, wired wheeled and buffed. Thanks for looking
  4. 4 points
    This has been hanging around, waiting for the right handle to come along Damascus OL 9 1/4" BL 5" Mastodon and black fiber liners Pretty simple G
  5. 3 points
    This type of blade construction was rather common in early medieval in central and northern Europe during Viking age. The blade consists of three parts: high carbon steel on the cutting edge, a twisted pattern-welded bar in the middle, and a simple pattern-welded bar on the back of the knife. To forge it I used a scrap metal (as usual in my projects) but this time the scrap metal was very special. I used old bloomery iron and wrought iron nails/bolts/rivets which were found in the Dziwna River in Wolin in the place of the old shipyard/harbor during the building of the new marina (Wolin is the historical site (Viking age city)), every new investment must be supervised by archeologist. This was also the case here but they were not interested of nails :-), so I collected it.
  6. 3 points
    Not in the shed but had a good day in town. I went to the outlet where I get bearings and belts etc to get a slightly shorter belt for the hammer final drive They have drums of bearings that are to go for scrap and they gave me permission to scavenge any of it I wanted. I just got three smaller ones about 4 inches in dia but there were a couple of big ones that must have been 2 ft across.
  7. 3 points
    Fire striker "Drakkar". Fire strikers that are made with using forge welding.
  8. 3 points
    yeah, I dropped my decent camera and it died. And today I shredded my front tire, only to find out the spare was 3" too large, which made for an interesting 25 mile drive home... also my pizza dough didn't rise. It's been a day...
  9. 3 points
    Finished this today. 10.5 inch blade forged from a 7 layer billet of bandsaw blade, horseshoe rasp and center core of chainsaw bar that hardened nicely. Guard is a scrap of 300 layer, spacer blade material, and buttcap an endcut from a radial pattern billet I made forever ago. Handle African blackwood. Through tang construction with a nut welded underside the buttcap to squeeze it all together. Had to try fullers after seeing Jason Knight grind them into an apocalypse tanto in one of his recent youtube videos. Thanks for looking, Clint
  10. 2 points
    Hi all, Just finished another lockdown project, only a small piece but the biggest blade I can currently heat treat and a milestone project for a noob like me! This is a late 15th/early 16th century messer. I've always liked the little Breughal inspired peasant knives that a few people have made replicas of, and also the Wakefield hangers, so smash those two designs together and you get this. The dates are of course a little out but not by much so hopefully It looks like something historically plausable. I don't know if there's some weird perspective thing or what going on but to me it definitely looks bigger in the pictures, this is only 43cm long, but I think that is about right for the sort of knife in the 'peasant wedding' painting. Certainly civilian rather than battlefield weapon. The blade for this is forged from 1075+cr, with a distal taper going from 6mm at the guard to 3mmish around the tip. The fuller was roughed in with an angle grinder and then filed in. Hours of fun. I like shiny knives so this has been mirror polished, though I know this is not to everyone's tastes and maybe not how a real one would have looked. The hilt fittings are mild steel, and the handle scales are walnut. The sheath is double layered with an integrated belt. I am mostly a leatherworker really and it's always fun going against all of my instincts to make something that looks medieval. Goodbye tracing paper and measuring tools, freehand it is. Anyway I hope you like it! I have a photo of 9 year old me at a reenactment event holding one of these and it's stuck with me since. 15 years later and I finally have my own, so quite a special project for me, and a nice big tick on the bucket list. Any comments or critiques welcome. Cheers! Alex
  11. 2 points
    A knife like that, well made, should easily be worth $300. Fwiw, I see a few small fit and finish issues, but I don't think you are far off of that value now. If this is your 6th knife, you should be able to ask more than that soon. $9/hr is not a living wage, but you will also get faster as you get better. Welcome to the knife maker's paradox. Most of us can't afford to buy what we make
  12. 2 points
    Boy oh.. so this one is an odd duck for me. The blade is leftover bits I had from other projects past (3" blade 7 1/4" overall). It's a four bar construction. The spine is wrought iron, the second bar is 1095 and 15N20, and the edge is 1084. The ferrule a sandwich of wrought iron and brass silver soldered. The handle is stabilized quilted maple. The sheath is hand stitched tooled (I'm still getting this down) veg tan leather. It was a fun knife to put together and I pushed every comfort zone I could on it. It's up on Etsy if anyone is interested. Thanks for looking!
  13. 2 points
    I started on the forge today but didn't last long as the summer heat & humidity convinced me to do other things. I opted for handle work and got my ivory handle cut out, slotted and one side checkered before calling it a day.
  14. 2 points
    Zeb, and Faye: You decide what you are OK with in selling your wares. If I said I never sold a knife that I thought had a flaw, I would be a liar. Every knife I make has flaws that I can see. Some I'm OK with selling, others I'm not. Generally speaking, If any maker is questioning whether something should be changed, and is hesitant about selling it, that's a red flag in my book. I have given knives away rather than sell them. I have hidden knives away rather than give them away. The handle shape on this knife is fine considering the level of experience of the maker. She should be proud of the product and comfortable with the idea of selling it before she does so. However, if her discomfort with the end result is because she is comparing her work to the work of more experienced makers, and that causes a feeling of "it's not good enough", trash that idea right now. There will be makers better than you, or me, for many years to come. Always do the best you can, and be OK with that. Each one gets "better". Frankly, I disagree with this assessment. Maybe I should have said this earlier. It is a simple handle. The fit and finish look clean and the dimensions look proportional to the blade.
  15. 2 points
    Thank you. Damascus steel fire strikers .
  16. 2 points
  17. 2 points
    I got this one, peddinghaus 165 lbs. I haven't got to use it but for about 10 minutes but it seems to be very good. I appreciate all the advice.
  18. 2 points
    I like that Seax, it makes me want to make one. As soon as I finish up a couple on the bench, I will get back to a seax and an axe project.
  19. 2 points
    good results. I think the handle looks quite good, too. I have never etched anything electrically. I did buy a Chinese etching machine because the front was translated wrong so the knobs are called "tits." My etching machine has tits. Beat that.
  20. 2 points
    Just finished this up as a present for a friend. Heat blued and lacquered 1095 with a forged copper pommel: let me know what you think...
  21. 2 points
    A Safari knife with Acacia over brass with attached steel The purple dyed Pig Sticker The mini Bull Nose Skinner with fiddleback Tasmanian Blackwood over 3 pin CB paper micarta. I havent done a sheath for it yet but will do one with attached short steel next time I am doing leather work. (and yes I know there is a hair on the blue background sheet)
  22. 2 points
    A pair of mini skinnersFirst has a very nice set of Lacewood handles This one with its attached steel has Desert Ironwood
  23. 1 point
    Forged my first knife in 10 years a couple weeks ago. Went well and started cleaning it up on my craftsman 2x42 grinder. I use this sander for all kinds of projects and it works well cleaning up cuts and rounding corners. For knives, it didn’t go well, so I moved into hardware mode. I made the tracking mechanism years ago, with the idea I could adjust the grinder to use various belt lengths. In this case I can go from 36” to 72” belts. Basically it is two wheel design with a 8” sunray contact wheel on the bottom, tracking on top and platen. I went with a 1hp iron horse motor and pulleys for speed adjustment. The frame is 8020 extruded aluminum that I got from a previous employer that shut down. So the only cost was the wheels, drive train and motor, also $20 in bolts and such. It is such a pleasure to use after the craftsman and works like a dream. It fits my present needs well, and if I dive deep into knife making, I can always make a more traditional 4 wheel model. The pictures below are the grinder, which I will probably make a table for. The tracking adjustment and set up with a 42” belt for giggles. Just want to show off, wife just doesn’t get it.
  24. 1 point
    Though I said I would wait until HT, I think it will make it out alive. So, this is about a 24" bladed broadsax of the Norwegian flavor with a spine made of high P wrought, 2 twisted rods of 15n20, and 1080, and a cutting edge of 1080. The colag is in as simple of terms as I could put it, because I sent it to someone who asked me what I do, (the outcome of that; I was supposed to do a demo in May) so I avoided the word "welding" as much as I could. ...And here it is with an 80 grit rough sand. Now I need to track down copious amounts of canola oil in the middle of a beer plague. I'm thinking I can brave the dollar store if I keep distance, use my card, and sanitize good. I've done a good job so far dodging the rest of world. Also, I realized half of my sword quench tank was used to build my power hammer. To be continued!
  25. 1 point
    After searching here it seems there have been very few sources for bog oak posted in a number of years. When you find it at various supply sites it is either extremely expensive or sold out. Two places however, eBay and Etsy are flooded with quite affordable bog oak or Morta wood, most frequently all from the Ukraine. Has anyone had any experience with these sellers from the Ukraine?
  26. 1 point
    This is one of the hard aspects of what we do. You have to feel good about your skill, as it is right now. First, that is WAAAAAYYYYY better than my first 50 knives, so congrats. Second, where are you getting $120 in materials? The steel is a few $, the scales are whatever you paid for them, but even counting fuel and belts I'd guess $50-$70. What is your time really worth? Are you a guy who makes a few knives as a hobby, or are you a bladesmith? If this is hobby, don't charge for them, or charge what materials cost you and figure your time is your own. Some of the best art and craft in the world is done by "amateurs", they have the time to spend. If you are trying to be a pro maker, then you step right up and ask for a price that you feel is fair. For an early work, that is pretty good. If you'd like some tips on how to make it better, this is the right place. Geoff
  27. 1 point
    Carvings looking awesome Zeb
  28. 1 point
    Cool stuff Conner! In the unlikely case you guys have been wondering, I'm still alive . I'm taking a break from knifemaking. I've been reading a lot about loudspeaker making lately and decided to make myself a pair of floorstanders for a change. There's a lot of science to make it all sound good! In the end, ff they only sound as good as my Oberon7, I'll be pleased . Once I'm done with the speakers, I'll finish my KITH knife I promise hehe.
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    You are a lot tougher than me....I would have had to stop when it hit 90, and even then I would have questioned why I didn't stop at 85....
  31. 1 point
    I might explore that option Garry. Might give Corin a bell too
  32. 1 point
    Welcome! I particularly like the first one.
  33. 1 point
    Fire striker "Whale". Fire striker - buckle.
  34. 1 point
    Fire strikers "Troll cross". High carbon steel and mild steel. All parts joined together by soldering. Solder - brass. Damascus steel fire striker. Black stripe - high carbon steel.
  35. 1 point
    Love the red vinyl tape. Years ago I worked in a shop where we used miles of yellow vinyl tape as mask-out for abrasive "etching".
  36. 1 point
    hyper therm 45 will do 1 inch/26mm sever cuts 1/2 like butter all day and works on a smallish air compressor and is around $1900 if i recal the next step up is another $1000 and needs a bigger compressor i have the 45 and love it
  37. 1 point
    Alec Steele got a custom designed anvil that weighs 140, specifically so it meets the criteria for ground shipping. I can vouch for the alloy and heat treat on these. I have no idea what he is going to be charging when he starts to sell them. I have been waiting months to share this with you all!
  38. 1 point
    My kids and I recently hiked back in to a small lake in the woods near my house. As I sat in my float tube I started to feel some tugging on my stringer. The picture isn't the best, but if you look you can see the 18" snapper turtle that wanted my fish more than me.
  39. 1 point
    They are actually very strong when stitched together. Granted a power hammer is a different kind of force from what happens in an engine, but consider this. over ten years ago I fixed the heads on a Ford 6.0 liter diesel engine. Those heads had 18 cracks between the pair. They were in the combustion chamber, exposed to a lot of heat and other forces we just cannot imagine. A diesel engine runs off of detonation which can be a very destructive force in a gas engine, yet those pins hold up just fine. I talked to the owner of that engine just a few weeks ago and he said it's still running strong. I have yet to see one of these pins fail. The way the threads are shaped, they pull the parts together tight.There again, not sure about the whole power hammer thing, but I bet they would work as good as about anything else in this situation which isn't good no matter how you look at it.
  40. 1 point
    This has worked well for me when I want to replace those stupid Californicated "safety" gas can spouts. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/ez-pour-hi-flo-replacement-spout?solr=1&cm_vc=-10005&st=Gas Can Spout
  41. 1 point
    wicked, it almost looks like it could be a sci-fi blade. ive tried to draw up a few messers and cant ever get it right, nice job.
  42. 1 point
    Made it back to my shop for a half day and shaped the handle. I tweeked my handle shaping process, but still need to acquire some serious patience. Though I like the general look of the handle right now it lacks that simple elegance that makes it look right. It seems a bit too wide and blocky. I know if it looks wrong it probably is wrong, but I thought I'd see if you guys thought it could be fixed with the material thats left or if I should cut it off and start over.
  43. 1 point
    Today I found an old friend that I thought I had lost. It's probably been a decade since we travelled together. He was covered in muck and dust, but he cleaned up really well!
  44. 1 point
    I'd rather have this one for most of what I do: https://colemans.com/mortar-ammo-can-m120-m121
  45. 1 point
    Preparing for the final assembly.
  46. 1 point
    I'd agree with getting sharper tools. When they get dull they kinda just mush wood out of the way instead of carving through it. I really like that design. It's going to look great once it's finished.
  47. 1 point
    My guess is that "just above non-magnetic" was not hot enough to harden the thin part. 5160 will sort of harden kind of okay from 1475 (nonmagnetic is 1425-sh), but it really prefers to get to 1550 or so. If the tip was already falling from 1500 or so before it hit the oil it may not have had enough heat in it to fully harden, i.e. the crystal structure was not fully transformed and you didn't get martensite. Or what little martensite there was isn't enough.
  48. 1 point
    I suspect autocorrect changed that from dowel pin...
  49. 1 point
    I usually pour some epoxy in, and wait for it to settle a little. A piece of bailing wire is good for getting the air bubbles out. When it's about half-full I insert the tang and remove the excess. A neat trick that Matt P showed me with kitchen knives is to drill a 3/8" inch hole into the handle. Then broach and burn the tang in. Now take a 3/8" wood dowel and split it in half. Sand the flat sides down until they are the right size in the hole to fit snugly against the tang. Cut them about 2" long and superglue them into the hole. Cut them flush with the front of the handle. Now use a syringe to inject the epoxy into the hole. You can buy the syringes and pine and walnut dowels at most Home Depot and woodworking stores.
  50. 1 point
    Depending on the steel chemistry and how much stuff there is to see in the final finish, anything from 600 grit to 2000 grit works well. I have a Gunto that I am remounting and repolishing for my wife and a 2000 grit finish before the etch was awesome. I usually make a sanding block of gum eraser rubber and use that and cutting oil as a final finish. Slow, precise, full length strokes and I position my hand so that the block does not wander. I use the middle finger of my left hand to ride along the back of the blade so that all of the 2000 grit scratches are parallel and consistant. Then I spray the blade heavily with pressurized anhydrous isopropyl to flush any stray grit and oil off the blade. Followed by a running water bath with dish soap (cold water). I etched by making a solution of vinegar, filtered water, lemon juice, and dish soap in an aluminum deep pan heating to boiling, and then suspending the blade point down (held in left hand) so that I can dip and brush the boiling solution over both sides of the blade with a fresh paint brush. When the blade is black, it is washed with running water and dishsoap and clamped in a Panavise, and a solution of mineral oil and a little bit of Pikal was used to remove all of the black oxides. This made the whole sword frosty and hid any remaining little scratches. About 5 rounds of etch and polish. Then the back of the blade is burnished with a polished burnishing rod to increase the contrast and visual appeal of everything above the ridgeline. Then I masked the tip of the blade making a heavy line of masking tape at the yokote and counter polished the point with 1500 paper and oil on a rubber block. I don't have pix of the blade but it is very attractive and functional. It is a hand made gunto of monosteel and the edge is very hard and very attractive. On this particular blade, 2000 grit single direction followed by an etch looked very nice. Also, experiment with concentrations of various types of acids. Weaker acids, used hot or in multiple cycles work better on many blades than a single etch in ferric or whatever in my experience. But every blade, every different steel, and every different heat treat scenareo will make its own demands. Ya gott get jiggy with it and exeriment with an open mind and a full toolbox of alternative ideas.
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