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  1. 10 points
    It only took 5-6 years. The blade is a two-core interrupted twist. The handle is sea cow bone, the fittings are about 2lbs of silver with niello inlay, and there are two opals set into the sheath, which is the same from front to back. The stand is black walnut.
  2. 6 points
    Blade: W1 Handle scales: Ironwood Fittings: 416 Inlay: fine silver wire
  3. 5 points
    Howdy!! Here are a few of the latest from my front yard.. The Kard s 1095, L-6 and some meteoric iron with a red Bovine Ivory grip.. The white gripped dagger is in a maiden hair pattern with a blade of 1095, L-6 and meteoric iron with some pre-WWI white Bakelite. The sheath is set with a 12.78 ct star ruby The darker griped dagger is in a ladder pattern in 1095, L-6 and meteoric iron with some more Pre-WWI Bakelite . the sheath has a 14.56 ct star ruby set into it..These were going to RPFS in Irwindale, CA but that is canceled so up on the website these go! These didn't turn out too bad considering an old man made them out in his front yard.. Hope these come out properly.. JPH
  4. 5 points
    I got some forging time in this evening before the snow/hail mix started. Kept working on this little kiridashi style knife. I’m going to draw out the tang another inch or so and then work on Forging a story towards the tip. I don’t want to go any profile grinding on it, and a minimal amount filing on it.
  5. 5 points
    I often mention using alignment pins and a drywall screw to hold the handle piece together while finishing the handle off the blade. I just did a search and realized I never posted the technique on this forum. So here it is. My alignment pins are laid out in relation to the tang, and I purposely offset them in relation to both center lines so that there is only one way to assemble the spacer to the handle once it is made. (pretend this spacer is not shaped yet)Now, the drywall (DW) screw will not fit through that slot. So, you have to grind off the teeth on opposite sides of the screw to make it thin enough to pass through the slot.Hopefully, your slot in the handle is not much wider than the slot in the spacer, but if it is (like this one) you will need some wood shim material. I use thin pieces of cedar shims from Home Depot.Slide them down the handle slot (fat end first) and break them off. They should be loose in the hole, but wide enough to overlap center.Now put your spacers or spacers & guard in place using the alignment pins.Slip a couple of washers over the screw, (put a leather one against the guard face so not to scratch it up), slip the screw through the slot and in between the wood shims. Tap it down until it is tight against the face and give it a 1/4 turn. It will hold everything together tightly.
  6. 5 points
    I have changed horses and got back to a rifle stock I am doing so this morning I started with the action inlet I did a couple of weeks back Having done the preliminary channel with straight chisels cutting across the grain it is then time to start the long process of scraping the fit in so at that stage this is what I see when smoking the barrel and transfering the soot to the channel These are the two main scrapers for the work till I get down to sanding rather than scraping. They are just old files I have bent and re-shaped for the purpose then re heat treated to harden the edge. I got a little video of the process
  7. 5 points
    I'm working on adding enameling to my repertoire. This is a drinking horn called Hvetr-rafn, or the Winter Raven. It should be fun.
  8. 4 points
    I've never made a sword before or done any pattern welding, so this is me feeling my way in the dark. I'm having fun! I went with a simple 2-bar herringbone core. The core bars are 7 layers (1084 and 15N20). For the edges, I built a 7-layer stack alternating wrought, 15N20, wrought, and 1084 (etc). Welded up my core bars... Twisted them with my buddy's torch... And then moved and forgot about this project for 12 months So now that I'm shut in on quarantine-- I'll grind it tomorrow and see how the welds look. They all seemed solid while I was forging the profile so...we shall see. As a bonus, I ended up with about 12" of extra herringbone bar. I made way more than I needed! Bonus seax? My goal for this blade is an early Anglo-Saxon style: fullerless (double-lenticular profile), 70cm long x 4.5cm wide blade, and a 12cm tang. I forged in a subtle distal taper, and the dynamics feel about right. Still too heavy at 2.5lb, but I assume I'll knock a lot of that off when I grind the surface and finish the bevels? I've got an old army surplus ammo tube and 6 gallons of canola oil, so once I finish the rough grinding I'll need to get up my courage enough to harden it.
  9. 4 points
    So, I was approached 2 different times with the question about having a video on "Ax or hatchet" forging.. I don't currently have a hatchet or Ax video out. It takes 6 hr to make either.. Kind of funny since one is bigger then the other. Anyhow, I needed a new hatchax as my old one was in need of a redress so decided to film it and see what I could come up with for a "Free" youtube video. here are the photos.. Oh, the reason I call it a Hatchax is because it is a very light head on a small boys ax handle.. they cut amazingly well and serve both well for light and medium heavy work.. a 3+" oak limb is normal with one swing.. Some super course/loose wrought iron.. Pretty cool in the photos because you can see how the grain of the wrought iron was sheared and moved and also where the grain is compressed and stretched. This wrought iron was so loose that in order for it to stay together at all. I had to completely change how I would normally proceed and welded the eye first, then split the cutting edge back open to insert the steel.. the stuff was so back that there was no way it would stay together for a decent preform.. I had to shape it after the steel was welded in so the steel would hold it from shredding apart. Enough chit chat..
  10. 4 points
    OK. So this forum was an amazing place, going back now... how many years? Certainly before social media, and Facebook in particular took a lot of people's attention away, because it really became the new marketing space. It was hard to spend so much time and social energy on multiple platforms and the forum lost a lot of my attention. I could deal with Facebook so long as I could use the add-on Social Fixer, which blocked political posts & keywords... LOL. But I had to upgrade my laptop and now it's not available for my browser for whatever reason. That makes Facebook and all the incessant, divisive, BS I see ratcheting up on both sides of the equation a strict no-go for my morning coffee and psychological well-being. It is good to come home.
  11. 4 points
    Here's one I finished up pretty recently. It's hearth steel I made from a pile of old blades I was unhappy with for whatever reason. It's such a satisfying transformation. The handle is oosic, or 10,000 year old fossilized walrus dick bone. It's more difficult to find nice pieces of oosic these days, and I really like this one. I'm honestly torn on whether or not to sell it.
  12. 4 points
    Ba-dah dah-dum I’m sittin’ in a basement office Tryin’ hard to work from home I was the last in the family to work remote So there was nowhere in the house to roam. Ba-dah dah-dum Stumbling around with my mini-laptop Lookin’ for a nice place to sit But every time I entered a new room They’d say “Dad you’ve got to split!” Ba-dah dah-dum Finaly, down to the basement I retreated full of hope I was eyebalin’ my messy work bench Could hear my boss in my head sayin’ “Nope!” Ba-dah dah-dum I shoved a mess aside, and sat my bottom down Now I’m trying real hard to work with all my toys around! Ba-dah dah-dum
  13. 4 points
    Another one waiting for a sheath. Maple burl on a 3 inch EDC. Not the best pic but will get to that when all done and it goes in my various knives thread
  14. 3 points
    Have I ever mentioned how much I like using templates? So I have a variety of guard & spacer templates. Some are made from fiber/paper stock some are made from thin copper sheet. One of the two up front will be used to get the bottleneck shape. Maybe eve both of them. The first step is to isolate the perimeter of the spacer on the back of the guard. Blacken the back of the guard. BTW-anytime I talk about "blackening" a piece of hardware, you can use Sharpie pens or dykem, or any of the conventional layout fluids. Put the guard onto the blade and get it seated in the finished position. Add the spacer and make sure everything is snug. Put the whole thing point down in a vise. Scribe (lightly! no sense in scratching an otherwise finished piece) around the outside. You need just enough to remove the black and leave a shiny line. Take the spacer off and position the template to scribe around the part you want to keep. Do all 4 positions exactly the same. Remove the guard. Now this is not exactly what I want to end up with, so there's a little redrawing/fudging with various curve templates to get the final shape. Cut off the excess and grind the profile down to the line. Set the guard back on the knife with the spacer. Check to make sure the profiles are even and symmetrical side to side. If you are having trouble seeing how much guard is sticking out from the spacer, I find it helps to put a layer of blue painter's tape on the guard. Finish on the 2x72 to 220 or 320 and finish out by hand.
  15. 3 points
    You're missing the point, it is not and never was about deaths. The point was and remains trying to keep people healthy enough so as not to overwhelm whatever health care system they have. A friend of mine is a doctor in New York City. They are at the very edge of their ability to deal with patients. Not just CV patients, but ALL patients. Admittedly, there are going to be some who really don't belong in the hospital, but there are some who do. So, what is happening there and what will soon happen in New Orleans, all because people won't do what they're supposed to do to limit the spread of what is admittedly just an annoying virus for most people, is why we have these distancing orders. I am closing this thread, as it's off-topic and dangerously close to getting political. I let it go as long as I did because we do need a place to vent, but it's become apparent that this forum is not the place. Peace, gentlemen and ladies, and let's keep it on bladesmithing and related arts and crafts. Thanks.
  16. 3 points
    Got these done today. A PH EDC (4 5/8 1095 blade) and Hunter Skinner with 4 in 1084 blade) and both with paper micarta bolster and canvas micarta scales. Both going to Zimbabwe ( gifted) to a professional hunter and his wife who just passed her PH test.
  17. 3 points
    All: As some of you know, in my day job I run a mid-sized defense contracting company. As a result, I have some insight into what the US government is doing in response to this crisis. I can tell you that what I'm seeing is utterly unprecedented. I've been in this game for nearly 20 years, and I've never seen this type of response before. Many of the things I'm seeing will take a few weeks to become visible in the public eye, but I'm blown away. No one is holding anything back. I see sincere, focused, and tireless efforts to combat this crisis. Remember that the people you see on the television are mostly elected officials or their political appointees. The real power in the US government lies at the 3rd or 4th rung of the org chart. These are the non-political career professionals that stay on from election to election. They are the ones that really run things day to day, and they usually are doggedly non-partisan. Many of these people are incredibly impressive, but often get overridden by the political appointees above them when the news cameras are pointing in their direction. What I'm seeing is, for the first time, most of the political appointees deferring to the career folks. This is reason for hope. So, while I'm certainly not here to say: Don't worry, the Federal Gov. will fix it (believe me, I've worked with them for too long to have much faith in anything they attempt), I am letting you know that I feel a modest amount of hope and optimism. I see competent, hard-working people putting everything they have into fixing this thing, and they're doing it with nearly infinite financial backing. Getting out of this thing is not guaranteed, but I think we've got a solid shot at it. Have faith. The US and the World have endured worse. We will get through this. Dave
  18. 3 points
    Hello all. Here's what I just finished (minus final edge and sharpening). This is my second integral bolster and I was more focused on the damascus pattern than the blade shape, so this is what I ended up after forging. After grinding, I learned I had enough material that I could have turned this into a decent chef's knife. It looks like I need more practice forging to keep my billet centered. The last stack was 5 pieces (3 of 78 layer 1084/15N20 separated by pieces of 0.140" 15N20) and I was looking for bulls-eyes of layered steel on a background of 15N20 with a layered steel core/edge. I'm not sure what to do with this one, may turn it into an EDC for me and abuse it for some edge/HT testing.
  19. 3 points
    LOLZ. I had to pull an all-nighter to finish this guy in time for a gift presentation. That was like, maybe 3AM. Loopier than usual. I made this video that morning before driving off 3 hours to hand it off.
  20. 3 points
    I think I speak for all of us when I say that what we absolutely need in this time of crisis, are more videos of Jul singing at his workbench.
  21. 3 points
    I roughed out the guard, and the handle yesterday. I decided to go with a blued finish on the furniture rather than using stainless, so I made the guard out of a piece of 4140 I had lying around. (I'm assuming it will blue well, but am not sure) I'm also planning to put in some thin bronze/black/bronze spacer pieces. I've got the hole through the handle, but need to add a threaded rod to the tang, and figure out how I am going to do the pommel nut. I'm not making it as a take-down, but since I want to blue the hilt parts, I can't do the final shaping and sanding after I glue it up. I figured a threaded tang setup would allow me to pre-assemble everything nice and tight for shaping, sanding, and polishing.
  22. 2 points
    This is a close copy of a small Latvian seax that was meant to hang from a Viking woman's apron brooch. The knife is O1 tool steel. Handle is bone and Scandinavian Birch. Bronze bolster. Overall length is about 6 inches. The Sheath was made from veg-tan leather and 22 gauge sheet brass. Rivets were made from 10 gauge brass wire. The suspension chain was made from 12 gauge brass wire. Patina is Black Magic.
  23. 2 points
  24. 2 points
    I reground my H/T rhomboid puukko blade today to get it closer to final dimension.The taper toward the tip came out perfect. All four sides came right to the point. It is 100mm x 20mm x 3.5mm. It will soon be a new knife. 4 hours later and I am happy. I am still working with partial numbness, but I won't complain, I can now work again.
  25. 2 points
    Multi tasking... Wet molding two sheaths and gluing up a handle.
  26. 2 points
    Hi folks, Had this small bear claw design stuck in my head since a long time. Wanted to give it an antique look with the design. The overall length is 5.5 inches made from a leftover piece of leaf spring. The finger hole was cut with a dremel and then drifted with a round punch. Brass is from the body of an old brass water tap. It can be held in a reverse and forward grip. The wood pommel gives a really secure hold at all times. Would love to hear all your critiques on the design.
  27. 2 points
    I actually wouldn't be surprised if there was some martensite formed, even in a shallow hardening steel. When you plasma cut mild steel, the heat flow from the cut edge into the body of the piece can be enough to harden the edges (I got impatient cleaning up the super-hard edges of plasma cut parts and decided to look at some samples). The same thing can happen with MIG welding, etc. With the plates being big heat sinks and the force of the press making a good thermal contact, I wouldn't be surprised if a thin piece hardened. I've had the same happen to old spring steel (composition like 5170) with just an anvil and hammer (also god fed up with drilling holes in hard steel, so did some metallography). EDIT: Found the micrograph of that hardened mild steel. This is a cross section of the edge off of the plasma cutter. And this is from that spring steel normalized on the left, and after forging then air cooled on the right (pretty much hardened all the way through consisting of martensite and bainite)
  28. 2 points
    This, my friend, is a matter of taste
  29. 2 points
    https://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/italian-military-surplus-ee-8-field-phone-used?a=2184809 You'd need two of these, four D-cell batteries, and a roll of telephone wire. They have several other nationalities of field telephone, this was just the cheapest. And it's basically the U.S. Korean War issue version, but with Italian labels.
  30. 2 points
    With a bit of the day left I had a play at the forge this afternoon. I often get short pieces left from the bars I cut the blades from and have been giving them away to those who forge here in NZ but decided to have a go and see if my hand would stand the hammering. Have finger damage from lifetime of using hammers etc in the building industry and was surprised that it held out for this but I wouldn't want to do it every day. Neighbors cat has adopted me and is often in the shed and I know the grinder going dosent bother him but thought the hammering might. His camping up on one of the soft mats says it dosent.I managed to gain near 2 1/2 inches from the short end of steel so quite pleased although didn't get the tang step down as I would like it so may have to revisit that area. Fairly sure I can salvage something from this exercise. Have it normalised (3 times) and cooling in the vise till I get back to it
  31. 2 points
    Hello: Well..as mentioned in mt past post I have re-examined our position and it is not good.. I lost all of the trade shows/faires that I send my e-vile minions to due to their being canceled..This translates into no income..which is not a good thing...However I have made some moves that will lessen the negative impact a bit..hopefully to the point where we will make it on one piece.. Royalties do help bit as well... On the same subject of this damn panic..Seems that three nights past a couple of idiots tried breaking into our home through the back door off of our deck.. They were so focused on what they were doing that while my wife was on the phone to PCSO I slipped out the front door and well..they spent a while sitting down with their shoes off staring at the business end of my shotgun. The sheriff deputies were more than happy to put them up for the night..came out a day later that these two apparently have been breaking into places to get easy money.. Now I do not know if this is due to the present situation or if these two are just deadbeat burglars..All I do know is we are safe and they are off the street for a while... All in all...I am populating my website as much as I can and hopefully I can generate enough lucre to stay afloat..Going balls to the wall on this... JPH
  32. 2 points
    Finishing this up. Water quenched 1095 blade, copper guard plate, antler bolster with carved birds head cartouches , carved box burl handle, leather sheath: let me know what you think...
  33. 2 points
    Well worth the wait if you ask me, this turned out to be a stunning blade. I can't believe it has been 6 years since arctic fire already. And I agree, old fashioned forums are still my favourite. Social media is nice to share things quickly, but good tested information gets lost in the sea of nonsense too quickly.
  34. 2 points
    Heat treated just 2 hours ago, and first temper done. Two more tempers, and a bit of straightening in between and it will be a fine sax in the making and the coolest thing I've made I'd say. Earlier I hiked to some mines gotta sneak a pic in there. Test blade got heat treated afterwards. Funny how it worked out because I had to quench that one twice, and still got a hamon. (Not visible in pic) I'm leaving it!
  35. 2 points
    Follow up I finished the blown ribbon burner forge. It runs like a rocket engine at 1 to 2 p.s.i.
  36. 2 points
    Hi all! After a long time I signed there because I made new knife which is available. It is small knife overall lenght is 22,5 cm, blade 10 cm and handle 12,5. Welded blade is forged from old, broken springs of agriculture machine and from the bearings. These springs I found unders old oaks on Kovalovec meadows. Guard is from patinated bronze and on handle is small patch of cow bone, which I found on the way to the Skalica hills. Last part I bought from my friend and it is Palisander Honduras burl wood. Hand sewn scandinavian type sheath with leather inserts in the blade part. Leather, knitted lanyard with small decoration from same wood as on handle. Price 370 USD with shipping. Paypal accepted. Contact on me: jakubpetras.noze@gmail.com
  37. 2 points
    Happy to see this complete! The scabbard fittings kick a lot of ass. Hey, I think we're about to see a renaissance here guys. It's the apocalypse. Swordsmiths are going to be very, very popular! I'm bullish on bladesmithing! Grins, Dave
  38. 2 points
    Something tells me I'll be here a lot more often now. Plenty of camaraderie, solid focus, no politics. Back to the good old '00's days. I am done with most social media though posting to the biz page is a necessary evil. I just don't want to read any of it now.
  39. 2 points
    Ah, what's a few years between friends? Way to make a return entrance, sir!
  40. 2 points
    Sorry, he was a Chinese spammer operating out of a New Jersey server. Deleted with extreme prejudice. And I don't know what happened to the report spam button. But I got him as soon as I was back online.
  41. 1 point
    haven't been here lately. I miss it. That is a really lovely handle.
  42. 1 point
    I think it's a true blessing to have someone mentor you like that, Josh. I've appreciated the personal help you've extended to me behind the scenes and on the open forum. I mentor as many wood carvers and furniture builders as are interested. It's very rewarding. After all, the crafts must grow.
  43. 1 point
    Hard to believe how long this forum has been going, glad to see you are back. I have always read and looked, but not making any steel objects lately so not posting about that, but still reading and digging around old threads. I rebuilt my old saddle last year, making some leather for dogs and headstalls for horses.
  44. 1 point
    That's because we (the eagles and I) are in U.S. Eastern time zone, or GMT - 5. Pity poor Rob, he's 12 hours off and has to look in the middle of the night.
  45. 1 point
    Normally I log in and it’s dark but just had a look. It is daytime and there is a chick rooting around in there. Actually, looks like 2 (sheltering from the wind a bit). Yeah, 2 chicks now being fed some fish.
  46. 1 point
    What a nice way to start my Monday! Thanks for posting. Beautiful.
  47. 1 point
    Experimented with higher psi, 15-20 psi seems to do the trick, I was able to knock in the edge on a kiridashi I’m forging before the wind started picking up and the rain started. Thanks for all the help folks, I’ll be back when I have more questions.
  48. 1 point
    Thanks to Alex we salvaged a rookie over zealous filing session! We quenched this evening and he had a few of those walnut blanks stabilized. Here are a few photos of them after knocking down the resin with 120 grit. Any comments on best looking and best sides for the scales?
  49. 1 point
    Beautiful work and craftsmanship
  50. 1 point
    I'll have to look into that! In the past I've done research when I wasn't able to work on knives, but now I might be able to do both. I finished the leuku and it has been soaking up tones of linseed oil. I'll take better pictures at some point, but with so many knives in the works, I'll wait until a few more are done. I've tried it out a little bit, and the geometry is definitely an improvement over the last one. The fullering on the short Sakha knife and the pre-ht grind on the other. The forge-finish fuller that a lot of modern versions of these knives have seem to be somewhat a-historic, with old originals being either flat or hollow ground on the right side. In this case, the left side is flat ground and will have a secondary bevel with the right side being ground on an 8" wheel. The shorter one after being straightened and having the second groove chiseled in. Both the fuller and the groove need to be deeper that you would think they should because they were done onto an as-forged surface. It's tempting to grind the surface clean after bending, but if you do that it will be crowned when you straighten it (ask me how I know ). The geometry of the chisel is also important; if the included angle is too high, you end up with a groove that is too shallow and gets ground out. If it's too low the groove won't get wide enough and the chisel will dull faster. A generous radius is also important so you can "walk" the cut up the blade. The plan is to grind this one then do some file work on the spine and go to heat treat.
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