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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/20/2020 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Hello everyone, The last month or so I have been working on a Damascus hunting knife with a stabilized beech handle. Since I am taking pictures for my Instagram account anyway, I figured it would be nice to post this on the ‘’old fashioned’’ forums as well. For this hunting knife I am going for a more traditional design than I would normally do, this is a ‘’simple’’ drop point hunter with a guard and hopefully a takedown handle. On this knife I really want to focus on my fit and finish, normally one of my weaker points in knifemaking. As I normally make historically inspired knives doing a modern knife comes with a lot of firsts and I have really enjoyed working on it so far. For instance: this is the first time I’m trying sweeping plunges, a takedown design or working with stabilized wood. I went through several different designs and did a lot of tweaking to get this knife exactly where I want it. Carbon tracing paper is a huge help in trying out different handle shapes. The blade material is 450 layer random pattern Damascus, the steels are O2 and 75Ni8. To test if the grind lines I’d drawn were actually possible I ground a test knife out of mild steel, the plunges turned out to not be as difficult as I had feared. The mild steel also made a great template to use when forging. Normally I would forge closer to shape, but I didn’t want to risk a stray hammer blow messing up my plunges. After a bit of grinding I heat treated the blade to +- 61 Hrc and tempered the spine and ricasso back with a torch, this gives extra toughness and also allows me to file in my tang shoulders very precisely. I tend to do most of my grinding post Heat treat, the O2 is deep hardening enough and with fresh belts there is not much risk involved. After the knife is ground, I start on the fittings, there is a guard and two spacers, the middle spacer is bronze I cast myself and the other is mild steel. The spacer assembly is held together with drilled and reamed pins, a bit of extra work, but it makes alignment very easy. A threaded piece is silver brazed to the tang, I made a bronze nut for it on my lathe to keep the entire assembly together. This allows me to pull the knife apart as many times as I want, when the knife is finished this will make re-finishing a lot easier also. The handle is made from spalted beech wood, this stabilized wood is very nice to work with, and just needs a buff to get to a nice shine. The only downside is that it really stinks when grinding. From here on it was a lot of boring polishing to get the surfaces good enough. The last thing is sharpening and making a leather sheath, and it is time to take some pictures with an actual camera.
  2. 6 points
    Been working on a blade for the past few days. It's a 9 1/4" 9 bar serpent core dagger - silver steel edges with a serpent of alternating 15n20 and 11 layer twist set in mild steel: I'm making it to fit this handle I've been working on, carved from sycamore: it's been pretty fun so far...
  3. 6 points
    A sad day. I finished this . . . no project to work on in quarantine now. So, the hell with this: I'm driving to Alaska. I start tomorrow. I just bought a 5th wheel camper and got diesel truck to tow her. Should take me 12 days. Wish me luck crossing the US/Canada border. They have closed it, but rumor has it they are letting Alaskan's through if they can prove they are residents. I'll post some photos. The handle on this one is copper, African Blackwood, moose antler, and more copper. Hope you guys like it. Dave
  4. 3 points
    Hello, my name is Maciej Tomaszczyk I am from Poland.This is my first post here but I registered in 2011. I am not a professional blacksmith. Blacksmithing is my passion. The most I like to forge ancient and early medieval replicas of spears and axes. Sometimes I use for it bloomery iron I smelting my own. In my works I try to use the same technics as ancient blacksmiths. Bellow same of my Viking age spears. If you have any questions about the technology I used, feel free to ask. pattern-welded spearheads based on the archeological finds (early medieval) from northern Poland. Replica of earlymedieval spearhead from Lutomiersk (Poland). Entirely forged from scrap metal, in the core i used T-55 tank cannon, old steel rail and wrought iron wagon axle. Pattern welded spearhead, based on the find of the spear from Ostrów Lednicki (Poland). The total length of the replica is 50 cm. max. width 4.5.
  5. 3 points
    Hi all, been a while since i was last here. been a difficult first half of the year and hope all are well. heres a picture dump of what ive been up to. recently, Ive been on a slipjoint craze. love making them, theres a whole other dimension with the fit and action. thanks for looking!
  6. 3 points
    I prefer the original Orange flavored tang, but the Grape and Mango are good too. (Sorry, it's one of those days...)
  7. 3 points
    Found yet another use for @JJ Simon monkey tail tongs. Perfect thing for reheating my lunch while waiting for a billet to come up to temp. Even this chain store pizza tasted better after being toasted over the dragon's breath. Ok, this is probably a terrible idea, but that pizza will probably kill me before some forge pollution.
  8. 3 points
    Hello.. Just got this one finished..this would of gone to RPFS out in California.. but since that is not running this year..on the website it goes... 22" long blade..hugs and kisses pattern in 1095, L-6 and some meteoric iron with full length fuller each side...forged and file worked phosphor bronze mounts and some of that bowling ball material that I happened to stumble upon a while back that I fluted for the grip.. Sheath is mounted in phosphor bronze and has a gem quality carnelian inset on the throat.. At least I am starting to get caught up on some things I got behind on thanks to this idiotic shutdown..but I am still dead for 2020 as far as shows go.. Sigh.. Hope the photos work.. JPH
  9. 3 points
    Hi just shearing this viking ship inspired axe.
  10. 3 points
    First a little clay.. then heat treat. Went without incident. Into the oven at 400 for a bit and then I’ll see if I can’t finish it up tomorrow.
  11. 2 points
    Here's the latest in my sheath making. On left is a saddle tan. On the right is chocolate, it almost looks black. Hand saddle stitched. Both have a nice welt sewed in as not to cut the threads. These turned out fairly well I think. Learning on each one! Need to make another knife to try stamping/ carving leather.
  12. 2 points
    I have done one already about how to forge pattern-welded spear. And i plan to make more.
  13. 2 points
    I'm on day 27 of not leaving my property. Thank god I've got a blade project to putter with. Here is a blade I just finished grinding/etching. I started it up in Alaska last Summer and mailed it down to FL for the post heat treat work. Standard 1095/15n20 mix. Twisted crushed W's make up the alternating bars under the fuller. Edge bar is a san-mai type w/ a 1000 layer core and 200 layer wrapping. Some highlight stripes between the bars. More when the fittings and grip are applied. I'm not going to rush, however. It's the only blade I have to work on, so once it's done I'm stuck w/ just mowing the lawn and pushups for entertainment. OAL is around 16" Anyone recognize this blade shape? It may seem familiar. Grins, Dave
  14. 2 points
    Alright, so I got tired of working with leather, and got tired of forging my new blade... so.. arrow-head! Figured I might need to forge some of these in the future if the apocalypse proves to be imminent... Just for fun. Chiao!
  15. 2 points
    Recently completed project - Germanic single edged sword Hand forged blade from EN45 steel, handle from yew. Total length 1620mm, blade length 486mm, width 50mm, thickness 5m. Thank you Jacek
  16. 2 points
    For me, it's can I put the tongs or bar between my legs and have it sit flat on the anvil.
  17. 2 points
    Well I have some more progress on this build. I sourced the wood from an old rifle stock and decided on copper fittings. Now on to some carving.
  18. 2 points
    Hey y'all, just finished the first knife that I've ever taken all the way to completion. I've had a couple others that broke, and I have a couple others that are almost done, but this is the first I've finished. I forged it from an old cold chisel, on an anvil made from a 12# sledgehammer head set into a stump It's and integral harpoon point, with a through tang. Not sure what the wood is, maybe cocobolo, it's been kicking around my shop for years. Copper and leather spacers, and a steel buttplate. I drew heavily on advice from you guys throughout the process, so thanks a lot! Learned a lot that I'm going to apply to my next blades. I'm gonna go back and sand it some more, there's some scratches and whatnot that I missed, but overall I'm reasonably happy with it.
  19. 2 points
  20. 2 points
    It took longer than I thought to finish this up, I had to source a big chunk of brass and then get the right stuff to darken the brass, and of course my bladesmith ADHD (LOOK! Shiny! OOH! LOOK, Rusty!) got in the way too. The overall dimension are close, within an 1/8th. The weight is nearly dead on at 1.52 lbs. The thing is a beast, it blasts through green Alder as thick as my arm without slowing down. Forged 5160, brass and Ipe. Mine is a bit stabbier and less choppy, but without an actual piece to compare to, I think it's pretty good.
  21. 2 points
    Well had some time to work on the Bowie today. First I layed out the leaf pattern for the handle,then did some final profiling on the guard. Then I started carving the guard here it is.
  22. 1 point
    In all its glory, 2006. You hit with the pointy end.
  23. 1 point
    Hmmm...if that's the case then can I make a suggestion. I hate for you to spend more money lol, but when I was first starting out I did a lot of my work on a 1x30 harbor freight belt grinder. It eventually formed a crack in the case, so to be safe I bought another one. But the original still worked...so I actually tipped it on its back so that the belt was running reverse of what I was used to. I did this to put edges on my blades and for stropping. I learned to do it on my 2x72 so I stopped, but if you just need it to do stropping, I would suggest doing that! No messing with your grinder, just an extra tool set off the the side.
  24. 1 point
    Maybe, never heard it said, but I don't get out much. For this to matter, you need to to have the need. I punch and drift a lot, so holding a bar between the legs is a common activity. To put it in perspective: The year I forge the 3000 +- RR spike bottle openers, I punched and drifted 1000 inches.
  25. 1 point
    Another possible way to look at this is to take a piece of hot steel, whack it on the anvil with a relatively flat faced hammer focusing on your upper body posture, and stance without worrying about any forging specific shape, and look at the dents in the piece. If the hammer blows are flat, the anvil's at the right height, if the anvil is too low, the edge of the hammer on the top (thumb) will hit first, if too high, the bottom (pinky) edge will hit first. In the interest of full disclosure, I didn't do this initially to set up my anvil height. After forging for a while when I started (before I started making knives), I noticed that I was having difficulty finish forging my work, having more dents to smooth out than I should, and after raising my anvil up about an inch, my forging got noticeably smoother.
  26. 1 point
    Me personally I prefer full tangs, I like the heft and feel. While I've made a few hidden tangs that ended up actually straight and inline, most have had some wonkiness that threw them off. Though recently Joshua showed me a way to reduce the frequency of that by making better shoulders so I can get the bolster and blade square to each other.
  27. 1 point
    There's a reason why its the original
  28. 1 point
    I wouldn't have either, just checking.
  29. 1 point
    @Alex Middleton came over and forged for a few hours about a month ago and he brought this 4140 die of some sort and left it behind....well today I started forging it into a BIG rounding hammer. I ran out of charcoal and I ran out of energy. This is by far the biggest piece if steel I've ever worked!!!!
  30. 1 point
    Really liking this knife, Rob. Anxious to see what you do in the way of carving.
  31. 1 point
    I know I'm REALLY late to the party here, but check out this cool tip by Neels van den Berg.
  32. 1 point
    I have a massive supply of curly maple. I use it for just about everything. Give me your address and I’ll send you a box full of blocks.
  33. 1 point
    Thanks everyone! I am quite pleased with this one myself, I hope i will get my hands on some more of this handle material. i ground the plunges by first doing normal plunge cuts about a half inch in front of where I wanted the plunges and then just very carefully feahtered them out on the grinder, by lifting the blade away from the belt slowly and cutting with the belt edge. I hope this makes a bit of sense. the most difficult thing was that the only belts I have that track perfectly are my 40 grits, so I had to start hand sanding at 60 grit any bit of belt wobble would mess up the swoopy plunges.
  34. 1 point
    One thing to be carefull of is the groove you have inside the stiching groove and in particular on the tan sheath at the tip of the sheath it shows two strokes with fading in both and the black one looks to have a blunt groover or a stop start stroke. When a knife is presented in the sheath these things do stand out and may disuade a potential buyer.
  35. 1 point
    Chris, I just got my Pheer 454 grinder a few weeks ago. I love it! We have a Wilton at work, but this Pheer is way better for less money. Belt changes literally take 10 seconds or less. The Wilton takes a couple minutes to change a belt, and then re-tracking the belt is a pain. The Pheer tracks very easy. I'm really glad I bought it. I mounted mine on one of the Harbor Freight welding tables that tilts 90°. I mounted the grinder on the right side of it and the table will tilt 90° to the left making it a horizontal grinder. Haven't needed to use it that way yet, but can if I need to. I got a surface grinder attachment for it too that works awesome. Going to be making some Damascus this weekend.
  36. 1 point
    And he no longer recommends JS applicants edge quench the test blade.
  37. 1 point
    Yeah. The test blade, as Geoff noted, is meant to do one very specific job, and is not meant to be the "ultimate" heat treatment for every knife. And our boy you mention is interested in the ultimate heat treatment.
  38. 1 point
    You can get a mixed structure, but the file biting after hardening is usually due to surface decarburization. After a couple of strokes the file should skate.
  39. 1 point
    That could be, but based on descriptions of his habit from my Aunt and cousin (who is in on the present), I tend to think he collects chef knives like some people collect bowies / swords / etc. He has a LOT ! I do know he has no Damascus blades, so this one will be his first.
  40. 1 point
    love the work. I especially like the filet knife.
  41. 1 point
    colour me wowed with that one. Love every aspect of it and there is a lot to study on.
  42. 1 point
    The video was brilliant. Working in show business is like working at a dog park. Everyone is peeing on trees.
  43. 1 point
    And here it is all done.. I guess it didn’t come out too badly. now I just gotta finish that big fighter.
  44. 1 point
    Have just done the hot waxing on these today so just have to put the final edge on the blade and they can go on the courier.A 7 1/2 in chef with paper micarta on 12C27 stainless Pocket Ranger with Leopardwood over curvebacked buff horn on the 1095 blade PH EDC with macrocarpa over curve back buff horn on the 1095 blade Pig Sticker with Desert ironwood over curve backed buff on the 1095 blade with both sheath options
  45. 1 point
    Way too many bevels!! But almost ready to heat treat
  46. 1 point
    I'm pretty sure that's a Jersey pattern Emerson & Steven's Co. Axe. Here is a video on how they were made.
  47. 1 point
    I worked on this thing today trying to get the museum fit set up, some detail shaping of the spacer package and getting rid of a gap between the spacer and guard. I'm going to try some carving for the first time on the guard and handle. I recently attended a class by Larry Fuegen he made it look easy it's not ,but what a great experience.
  48. 1 point
    Between online finals, my KITH knife, and a commission for a handful of knives, I kind of fell off of this project for the time being, but I did get the handle on the small Sakha knife shaped and treated with tar. I’m really happy with how this piece of wood turned out with the tar. I’m going to be away from my shop for at least three months, but I have a list of all the supplies I want to order and a reminder of the projects I’m working on. It may be in a while, but I do plan on coming back around to make sheaths for these knives and probably making a few more.
  49. 1 point
    A Safari Knife with brass and buffalo horn on the 1095 blade ready for an edge and shipping off to Missouri.
  50. 1 point
    At least four people per day still don't believe me, so one more time: NO NUMBERS. NO NICKNAMES. PERIOD.
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