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  1. 6 points
    Recently finished this for a fella that laid out the specs and wanted it loosely based on other bowies I have made with a similar recurve. 10 inch blade forged from 80CRV2, coffee etch with mustard patina, stainless guard and buttcap, cocobollo handle. Thanks for looking, Clint
  2. 6 points
    Awesome! It would be cool if it was in the handle though........... Say you walk into a waffle house around 2am. The salty ol' waitress that didn't want to serve you throws your food down and says in a raspy new england accent "sorry sweetheart, we're out of syrup". So you narrow your eyes, spit a stream of tobacco juice on the floor, and rip a 7.5" knife from your hip without breaking eye contact, then remove a cap from the hilt dispensing maple syrup on your dried stack of bland food. Then you give it a lil twirl from the bucket hook and re-holster that bad boy in wild west fashion. Then, the Rob Halford doppelgangers tap your shoulder and.... Obviously just kidding btw
  3. 5 points
    Forging the Blade The raw material for this blade spent most of the last century on a former homestead. A large portion of the steel was used for another blade, this was the piece cut from half of the left side. Slowly drying the clay for yaki-ire over the embers in the charcoal forge. After yaki-ire, an #80 grit Sun Tiger stone reveals the approximate hamon as the geometry is set. Habaki Habaki forged to shape in preparation for silver soldering in the charcoal forge. The habaki is textured with files and patinated using a blend of copper salts similar to rokusho. Ireko Saya A two part black buffalo horn (ura) and blond cow horn (omote) lock keeps the two halves aligned when joined. The omote half contains the edge entirely and has an oil collecting reservoir at the tip. The ura half does not contain the edge, keeping it entirely in the omote half. Kataki Tsuka & Saya The hardwood block is split and carved out to fit the ireko saya and the tang and then rejoined using sokui (rice paste glue). This wood is very hard on tools and they require frequent sharpening. Nori-urushi, a mixture of natural urushi lacquer and sokui is used to reinforce certain areas, particularly the koiguchi where the wood is thinner. Mixing the urushi and sokui along with a bit of extra water to help it cure inside the joint. It can take at least a month to fully cure nori-urushi inside a wood joint, more time is better for strength. After the nori-urushi is fully cured the tsuka and saya are shaped with kanna and smoothed with fine rasps and the horn mekugi peg is fitted. An antler crown and tip are used to form a very organic kurikata (栗形, a cord loop) and obidome (帯留, “belt stop”), usually called kaerizuno (返角, “turn-back horn”). The antler kurikata is fit to the saya using a carved sliding dovetail, with no room to spare! The kurikata slides in from one side and then tightens as it reaches the final position. The obidome has a tenon that fits into a mortise carved in the saya, again carved right to the ireko saya. The obidome/kaerizuno will be attached with sokui after the saya is lacquered. In preparation for lacquering, the open grain is cleared of dust using a stiff brush. Ready for fukiurushi, the thin layer of wiped on urushi will preserve the interesting surface texture of the wood. After the lacquer has cured the surface has become a rich, glossy dark chocolate colour. Polishing Once all the parts are made and fitted the blade can be taken through the final polishing stages using Japanese waterstones. The natural #700 used to remove the last of the arato/kongo-do stone scratches. Several stones later, hazuya and jizuya fingerstones made from flakes of uchigumori-do and narutaki-do koppa attached to washi paper with natural urushi are used to even the surface and add depth. This stage is very time consuming as is the uchigumori-do before it. The fine surface grain of the steel brought out by the uchigumori stone throws multiple colours in sunlight. Final Assembly A look at all the koshirae parts before assembly Antler kurikata and obidome attached using sokui and tapped into place with a small mallet. Inserting the ireko saya into the koshirae. Completed aikuchi koshirae. Furusato tanto forged from reclaimed antique steel. View of the spine with peaked iori mune. Macro detail of the interesting texture of the Tshikalakala wood pores.
  4. 5 points
    This a copy of an original 19th century Dagger style Spontoon tomahawk I finished recently. Forged from rifle barrel and 1084 steel with pierce work, whitesmithed, and an aged patina. Handle is black Walnut with fire checkering, incise carving, paint and brass tacks. Raw hide quirt with wool and glass beads. Handle is 23in, head it 14in
  5. 5 points
    I got the guard sanded, polished & heat blued today. I stopped the bluing short of a dark blue. (determined by temperature) I like a little purple mixed in with the blue.
  6. 4 points
    A little more progress: The tang end sticking out will be penned over. There are some weld flaws there but I don’t think they extend to where it will be peened. I plan on doing all the engraving before I put it all together. Now we are too the blank canvas stage. I get really nervous because one cut could ruin a lot of work... Getting the design right and then getting over that inertia for the engraving is the hard part.
  7. 3 points
    Got this one finished up, bar for the sharpening this evening. I forged the blade last year, and it was not very pretty, left it too thick from the hammer, and its fought me right the way through as a consequence! - Core is not centered, but its servicable. The blade is from pre-laminated san mai, with stainless cheeks, and aogami super blue core - The handle is home stabalised spalted beech, and stabalised bog oak. Not sure if I like it yet, but that might be a consequence of it kicking around the shop for so long. I will put it away for a few days, and look at it with new eyes when I sharpen it! All feedback appreciated, as ever
  8. 3 points
    I got the action settled into the wood today and made a start on the bottom metal.
  9. 3 points
    Stage 2. You can now remove the spacer package as a complete unit and drill your pin holes. I typically use 1/16" pins, but 3/32" pins will also work. I cannot get 1/16" drill bits into my drill press, but my mini-mill can do 1/16" drill bits. It also drill much truer than my drill press. I generally drill through the back spacer to the front. I'll explain why later. Sometimes the superglue breaks during the drilling and you do not complete the holes. If this happens, put everything back on the tang and insert the pin or pins as far as you can, and glue them together again. I Take the spacer package apart and clean the glue off. First scraping with a razor blade and then lightly sanding with 320 grit. Now I put everything back on the tang with the pins in place. This makes sure that you have good pin alignment. Recheck the spacers for tight fit and get the spacers package superglued together again. Same as earlier. Now remove the pins and insert the tang into the handle material. As with the spacer package, this should be a tight flush fit that no light shows through. Glue the last spacer to the handle material at the joint. Now remove the blade and guard. The spacer package is held to the handle material and will work as a guide for you to drill the holes into the handle. These do not have to be too deep. I typically set them less than 1/8" into the handle.
  10. 3 points
    I changed horses today and made a start on a stock for an early (english) style stalking rifle for a friends rifle that came down from his father (recently deceased) It had a euro stock that didnt fit him so hence the new stock. A little different as he is in the US and sending the barreled action is not an option so parts from my 'spares' box come into play.
  11. 3 points
    Just a little bit of progress today. I have to tell you that the dagger has been taken off the bench for a long while. It will take more time than I have to devote to it right now. I did make another W2 blade. It will be an EDC take-down. I just realized that I failed to take any photos of the forging or HT process, which is a shame. Anyway, I drew down the tang and took that to 320 grit today. Then I took that big camp knife, fitted a new guard to it (third try is the charm I guess), Drilled the blind pins for the spacer package and got it indexed to the Amboyna block. (I drilled and fit the block to the tang Sunday) I also sanded the blade to 600 grit on the disc and it's ready for handle shaping.
  12. 3 points
    Not knife related, but camera related. I ground up a hotshoe cover protector for my camera. Couldn't find one that's cool on the internet so what do ya do? Make it yourself!
  13. 2 points
    My camera is not cooperating on the pictures of the edge, but I did get the profile finished: Theres a big part of me that wants to take a torch and crescent wrench, or fire the forge back up, and start tweaking the edge to center, but theres a little voice in the back of my head that keeps saying that I should bring it in to work tomorrow and use the height gauge to lay out the true center line before I do that. The really weird thing is that the voice sounds eerily like @Joshua States............ I think I'm going to listen to it and call it good for today.
  14. 2 points
    First dry fit-up: As you can see, I opted for a bold pattern in this blade.
  15. 2 points
  16. 2 points
    Germanic spears based on the Vimose finds. The longest with an octagonal sleeve is 48.5 cm and weighs 330 grams. The other two have rounded sleeves, 39.5 cm and 38.5 cm long, and each brew 300 grams. The knife is a Germanic standard with a Vimose pattern from a single-edged sword. Blade 19 cm long, whole knife 30 cm.
  17. 2 points
    I am his nephew and was not able to get any of his work before he passed. I would love to own something made by him. If you, or anyone you know, has a piece they would be willing to part with I will pay generously for it and be forever grateful. Thank you!
  18. 2 points
    Well, Chris got me thinking about doing a little demo of installing blind alignment pins. That Kyle Royer video does a good job showing how you do it with a single spacer (and make it look lie it's multiple spacers), but I like using multiple spacers of different materials and thicknesses. I think it just looks better, and gives me more to embellish. So I came home and shot some pics of the process. As is well established in other posts, I am a 3-element kind of guy. I like using 3 spacers, and I like to match the length of the ricasso to the thickness of the spacer package. It looks "balanced" on opposite sides of the guard that way. The first step is to get the guard and spacers mounted on the tang. At least one of them should be a snug fit with very little or no movement. I generally press set the first spacer that goes against the guard. The other two are close or snug. None of them should be so tight that you have to hammer them off. Stack everything up and get it so the spacers are smooth flush and there are no gaps between them. Hold it up to a bright light and look through from side to side and top to bottom. No light should be visible between any of the fittings. By this point, you should have each of these pieces "tagged" to tell you which one goes on in what order and what orientation. I like to number the upper right corner of the back side (away from the blade) with an up arrow. Lin Rhea uses a center punch and puts a different number of dimples just above the tang slot. Whatever you do, tag each piece so you can always put them back on in the correct orientation. With a 3-piece spacer, it's not too difficult to figure it out without the tags, but when you do a 6 piece spacer...... With everything together, squeeze the package tight and appliy a couple of drops of superglue to the seams between the spacers. Do NOT glue the front spacer to the guard. The guard should be so tight that you need to whack the tang to remove it. This will instantly break the superglue bond.
  19. 2 points
    rolling rolling rolling shes in transit !
  20. 2 points
    Bed on the wood. The smoker allows for tight fitting. As my action may be fractionally different to my friends he may do the recoil lug with Devcon (liquid steel) when he sets his own action in it but in any case I wont be able to get the barrel channel perfect as I only have a tracing of his barrel so will have to do a slightly undersize channel which will require minor fitting so he may bed the chamber area. I have an old barrel that I may get turned to as close to his pattern as I can manage and fitted tight should be a close start for him.
  21. 2 points
    Greetings All, This was my first attempt at a hamon, from January this year - a 1095 boner with stabilised Swamp Kauri scales. I was pretty happy with the outcome but will change things up a bit next time to hopefully get more activity.
  22. 2 points
    I forgot to take decent pics of these before they headed off this morning. The 7 1/2 in chef knives of 12C27 SS with oak handles and the box set (004) is a sample for my agent to show round various interested parties so will see what comes of them. The pic was taken before I had the inletted discs etched with the symbolic malon labe motif but it is the same one as on the box lid. Have also sent him portions of the colour options for the cloth lining.
  23. 2 points
    I ran out of junked antique barrels years ago, What I use is the material that most barrel makers make barrels from. DOM Pipe (drawn over mandrel) 1in OD, 1/2in ID in 4130 or similar alloy
  24. 2 points
    My take is a little different. I seldom make something simple like a hook or nail. I go for the WOW! effect. My most common demo piece is the wizard bottle opener* as shown in Mark Asperys book. I also interact with the crowd. With the talking and explaining the process, it takes about 45 minutes. And when I say explaining, I mean everything. I talk about the forge, the coal, the anvil, iron vs steel, how I made the tools, etc.... I've had people stay to watch a second time. I had one potter stay for 2 ½ hours. He didn't buy anything, said it was just so cool to watch. When I'm demonstrating, I'm there to SELL, but I've also made an agreement with everyone that comes to watch. And that agreement is that you will enjoy yourself and you will have gotten something by watching me. Which by doing so, increases my sales, so it's win/win for all of us :-) *Interestingly, the part that gets the biggest wow, is when I rub on the brass. If you're going with blades, then I would suggest story boards and several step by steps that folks can pick up and handle. Leaving last piece unsharpened of course :-) Because bladesmithing without forge welding is Booorrring. Look he's making a point on the end of the bar. Look he's making the point longer. Not real entertaining, unless they understand what's happening as it happens.
  25. 2 points
    Or maybe it's the other way round? I get those shakes too, from time to time. Well, it's always there a little bit, a thing called Essential Tremor. But if I'm tired while working it gets worse. Sometimes a hot water soak helps along with food and water.
  26. 2 points
    Like that Maple Burl and those knives, Garry. Shakes went away after I ate, Joel. Guess I just didn't eat enough today.
  27. 1 point
    There should be separate bars for the neutral and ground wires. If the two bars are bonded in the box, it doesn't matter which one you tie to. That's why I want to see the photo. So I can see if the two are bonded or not.
  28. 1 point
    This will work. I have a couple pieces of machinery wired like this.
  29. 1 point
    This afternoon, I got the guard and spacer package set on the take-down EDC. Got the handle block fitted and bedded the tang.
  30. 1 point
    It is, but looks like you're doing well.
  31. 1 point
    Hello everyone, I have wanted to write this tutorial for a while now, but never got around to actually forging and taking some pictures. I hope some people will find something of use in this tutorial, as I myself have found so much great info on this forum by tutorials posted by others. I have done a fair bit of traditional blacksmithing and have made a few different styles of tongs, most of them are not at all easy to forge, because they have multiple step-downs and other complexities and will simply suck when not forged properly. A few years ago, I set out to build a somewhat historical early medieval forge, and I wanted to forge some tongs based on historical finds to add to the display, to my great surprise the tongs I forged were not only simple and quick to forge, but also work very well! In fact, a pickup tong and a ‘’blade’’ tong in this style are the only tongs I use in forging knives anymore, and I own a lot of tongs, including commercial and antique tongs. Of course, everyone has the right to his own favourite style of tongs, and there are also times when a welded-on handle shines. I also in no way am trying to call this ‘’my’’ style of tongs as I have seen similar designs all over the world dating back 2000 years. The good things about this style of tongs are: 1. Easy to forge with no set-downs, twist or forge welds to get wrong. 2. Very light 3. A lot of gripping strength for such short tongs 4. Easy to index and twist the work. 5. Both halves are exactly the same. To forge these tongs, I start with 20 cm of 20x10mm (+-7/8’’x 3/8’’) mild steel, for big work I guess I’d start with heavier material, but for normal bladesmithing I do not see the need for anything heavier. (except axe making but that is a whole other topic.) I have no idea what available steel sizes are in imperial countries, but anything close to this size should work great. (note, I use a coal forge and like short reigns, when you are using a gas forge it might be nice to make the reigns a bit longer and start with longer material, to save your hands from the dragon’s breath.) I start with marking 25mm (1’’) for the actual gripping part, this can be flattened for pickup tongs, or split for blade/bolt tongs. 75mm (3’’) from the same end I make a mark where the taper of the jaw will end. I will then forge a step to about half the material thickness on the 1-inch mark, on a rounded corner of the anvil. From the 3-inch mark I will draw a straight taper to the stepdown Here is the only slightly tedious bit, from the 3-inch mark I will draw another taper to end of the bar on the opposite side. This will be the reign of the tong, I find that with a hammer with a rounded peen and a nice yellow heat this goes quick enough, and it is great practise for forging the taper on blades anyway When this is done I bevel the corners for a better feel in the hand, this can be done with a grinder if you want to save time. note: the taper of the reigns is forged to the wrong side in the picture below, however this is easy to correct. The jaws of the tongs will now need to be bent, I use a wooden mallet over the horn of the handle. The nubs at the ends are now bent back the other way to make it easier to cut the groove in the middle and bend the tongs later. You should now have two the same shape tong blanks, and now it is time to form the jaws. For bolt tongs I clamp the blanks in the vise and cut the groove in the middle with a chisel, an angle grinder works great too, and bend them roughly to the material you want to grip. With pickup tongs the nub is just hammered flat and ground straight when the tongs are assembled In the thickest and widest part of the tong half, about 10mm from the mark where the taper ends I now drill a small pilot hole and push a 10 mm drift through the pivot, the pilot hole makes it easier to get the drift in the middle. Below: pilot holes drilled, jaws slit with an angle grinder and corners rounded on the grinder. If you struggle with rivets like me it can be useful to drill the drifted hole again with a drill bit slightly smaller than the rivet diameter, this will make it easy to insert the hot rivet. Now rivet the tongs together, if you move the thongs while the rivet is still hot this will allow them to open and close. Obviously, the reigns and jaws are now not above each other, just heat them up, and clamp in a vise and with bending forks or tongs tweak them till they are. The more time you spend adjusting and straightening the nicer your tongs will grip and turn material, so I spend a bit of time here. Below: a few pictures of bending and tweaking the jaws to line up and close. And voila! Your tongs are done, and ready to grip everything your fingers can’t I hope I have inspired someone to give these tongs a try, and if there are any questions or requests for clarification please feel free to ask. -Pieter-Paul Derks-
  32. 1 point
    I agree with Alan. It's better now than before. Not that it wasn't going to be really good before.
  33. 1 point
    Successfully quenched my first straight razor (wrought iron/26c3 San Mai) and ground my first knife with a false edge.
  34. 1 point
    Now insert the pins and cut them off flush with the front spacer, or a little less so they do not interfere with the fit against the guard. You have now installed blind alignment pins. Now to shape the handle, I do this off the knife. I will soon demonstrate how this is done.
  35. 1 point
    I think that will be plenty strong. Eventually I'm confident that you will want to find other methods as tapping the holes is a PITA. lol
  36. 1 point
    I'm going to disagree to a point with the others here. A pin only adds a mechanical bond in one direction, either horizontally or vertically but not both (unless they are peened). So if you are thinking of pins going through the tang and only partially through the scales then they're not as strong. I prefer to have both a mechanical as well as a chemical bond on my handles. Just my $.02.
  37. 1 point
    Cool design, Joël, I like the forward curving bucket hook guard. That's a really neat touch. And also a syrup flask may be one of the best ideas I've heard in a long time!
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    Gotta hate when that happens, but gotta respect you for maintaining standards!
  40. 1 point
    I suspect, as with all things katana-related, there is some misinformation at work. The construction type referred to is Kobuse, or hot-dog-in-a-bun. As Geoff says, there is no "folding" involved, just a wrap and weld. This is done with a short fat billet to get the low carbon core/high carbon outer layer in a manageable size, which is then drawn out to the length required. The near-mythical "folding" associated with Japanese stuff is just refining the smelted bloom to get rid of the slag, nothing different than what any culture did to refine raw iron/steel. It is counterproductive with modern homogenous steels. Kobuse construction itself isn't particularly common, because it offers no advantage compared to an all-high carbon blade with hamon, and is in fact weaker, since the low carbon core steals carbon from the high carbon jacket with every welding heat. You get the hard edge/soft core either way, but one method is more difficult than the other. Japanese metalsmiths of all varieties tend to be masochists, though. If there is a more difficult way to do something, they'll do it. Not to say the results aren't very pretty, of course!
  41. 1 point
    Like Wayne said, let the castable refractory cure on top of the ceramic matting and you're good to go. I have castable refractory over my ceramic matting in my large forge (built out of a large mailbox) and I haven't had any problems. One other thing, the ridgidizer will compact the ceramic matting and decrease the insulating capacity. Doug
  42. 1 point
    I was wondering how you were going to finish the weave on the guard. Outstanding. Doug
  43. 1 point
    And re hardened, i normalized it once just to make sure it was absolutely soft before another quench, and only for a second or two I was able to see recalescence. I think this is the best heat treat I’ve ever done, the blade skates a file when I’m pushing hard into it.
  44. 1 point
    you can center punch a work hardened hole and that can help get the bit working again.
  45. 1 point
    More than one professional maker has told me that brass cheapens a blade. That it's too common, and people see it as inexpensive. I don't agree, but some people do feel that way. Plus it is what's included with all those kit knives.
  46. 1 point
    I'm fine now, Garry. Just didn't think I should be messing with spinning router bits and small pieces of wood used for handles on my wood carving knives. Heck, I couldn't even make my marks so I could set things up. I'll get back at it tomorrow when I'm normal............................if there is such a thing!
  47. 1 point
    Got a couple of nice pieces of maple burl in the post this morning and started the finish process on a pair of oak chef knife handles. Processed a bit more oak into blocks and have it in the drying oven for a week to finish it down to vacuum chamber dry for stabilising.
  48. 1 point
    Well, this didn’t turn out to be a wip but they’re all done. By far, the most challenging project I’ve ever done. Looking at it now I’m (mostly) happy with the result, but there are things that I would go back and change if I had a time machine. So much learned and still only scratched the surface. The handles are cocobolo with copper spacers and pins. The steel is ~180-190 layers of 1084 and 15n20 with the last stack having thicker pieces of 1084 to get that bold layer.
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    Well here it is all done, I am happy with how this turned out in the end esp since it is my first sheath of this type and also my first go at leather tooling (thanks Josh). I have a confession....I had become a bit stale and board with making knives and I feel this has lit a fire again and inspired me to delve into the artist within me. I am really looking forward to my next project which will be a sheath for my pattern welded broken back seax. I also got some 90cm lengths of 15n20 and 1075 so this year I hope to get creative with my blades too. Thank you to all who have come along for the ride and for those who have posted invaluable info throughout this forum esp in history. Anyhow it is Friday night in Australia and I am about to crack a beer and light the BBQ. looking forward to any feedback etc. Oh...one more thing. I would appreciate any info/suggestions on your preferred suspension for this type of sheath as it might very well see active service on my bow hunts.
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