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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/30/2020 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    So I do a lot of reading on this forum and occasionally ask questions. You all have been a big help to me in my blade making! So thank you for all your tips that helped me complete this project. So many first on this one! Thanks Jake Cleland and Alan for answers to parts of the build that were totally new to me! Blade is forged from the leaf springs of a 94 Chevy. Blade is 9 5/8“ long and 3/16 at the spine. Handle is Osage Orange from my fathers farm. So after 1 1/2 years I can call it finished!!
  2. 7 points
    52100 / 416 SS San Mai, stainless dovetailed bolster with maroon linen micarta scales.
  3. 4 points
    This type of blade construction was rather common in early medieval in central and northern Europe during Viking age. The blade consists of three parts: high carbon steel on the cutting edge, a twisted pattern-welded bar in the middle, and a simple pattern-welded bar on the back of the knife. To forge it I used a scrap metal (as usual in my projects) but this time the scrap metal was very special. I used old bloomery iron and wrought iron nails/bolts/rivets which were found in the Dziwna River in Wolin in the place of the old shipyard/harbor during the building of the new marina (Wolin is the historical site (Viking age city)), every new investment must be supervised by archeologist. This was also the case here but they were not interested of nails :-), so I collected it.
  4. 3 points
    Began on this one last Monday to see how fast I could make a decent piece. Originally thought I was going to make a french style long dagger but as I worked my mind wandered as is usual It's overall length is 72cm with a blade length of 56cm. I wanted a stiff thrusting blade so the distal taper is quite minimal and linear going from 7mm at the guard to 3mm near the tip. I did pay for that stiffness with almost 100grams more weight than I had aimed for at 746grams of total weight with the point of balance 5cm from the guard. It still feels so very light and nimble. Just recently found a place I could buy solid brass wire wheels and that was my main excuse for brassing the guard and pommel to add a little bling and I think it goes nicely with the red grip. The grip yes, my leather skills are still quite lacking as I prefer messers and their wood grips so far from perfect but it's getting better each time
  5. 3 points
    Not in the shed but had a good day in town. I went to the outlet where I get bearings and belts etc to get a slightly shorter belt for the hammer final drive They have drums of bearings that are to go for scrap and they gave me permission to scavenge any of it I wanted. I just got three smaller ones about 4 inches in dia but there were a couple of big ones that must have been 2 ft across.
  6. 2 points
    So back in 11/2018 I had a demonstration to do and I decided it was a Felling axe that my sights fell on. It was the last demo of the year and all ready had snow on the ground. My buddy Scott came around to help with sledge.. We got the mandrel done and 1/4 the way to a finished axe before he had to boogie. Fast forwards to 5 days ago and my desire to to finish the Axe.. I am about 96% happy with it.. I am not a fan of any hammer marks nor scale left on the work if it was designed in my mind. About 8hrs, all hand work.
  7. 2 points
    Your wife, whom I’m sure is an intelligent, supportive and understanding partner, is, well, simply wrong. I, on the other hand dabble in the dark art of bladesmithing for a couple of hours over the weekend in an 8x14 space with little to no opportunity for expansion. I could take over my twin 6 year old daughters play room however thinking my intelligent, supportive and understanding (at the minute) partner may have a differing version of “need”. Hmmm, power hammer. Maybe I might see how much clarity another glass of red may bring.
  8. 2 points
    This won't be everyone's cup of tea, but I thought I would share my progress on this as I go along. My family spends the 4th of July holiday in Sheboygan every year, and we spend a lot of time walking along Lake Michigan. Each year I look at all the drift wood thinking it would be nice to make some kitchen knives for us all to use that have driftwood handles from our trip. However, drift wood looks cool as a piece of wood, but I've never thought it would look all the great as handle material. I've been doing a lot of wood stabilization lately, and thought I should bring back some really punky pieces and see what is inside. This is some of what I brought back sliced into 1/2" thick planks: (Toes left in the pic for scale ) It's not presentation grade ironwood burl, but I'll stabilize these, and then probably resin cast them to see what I get. I'm pretty hopeful that I get some scales for a family kitchen knife with some meaning. Stay tuned...
  9. 2 points
    Enjoy the time off. Rest up. Heal quickly. Around here we call them sucker rods. Typically in the 4140-4160 range. Very useful for punches, chisels, drifts etc.
  10. 2 points
    its a rather old commercial way of doing it. While I weld the eye closed using the scarfs before inserting the steel which then leaving a gap for the steel to sit in in a separate welding heat. Using this method when perfected the steel and eye weld can be completed at the same time. thanks, You are right on the bevel and rounded out center section of the blade.. It does help to keep the blade from sticking and leverages out of a cut easier. I am often dismayed today that most axes and hatches made are flat bladed.. Not really great for deep cuts with little sticking. Its nice seeing someone else who understands this. I left his a little straighter along the cutting edge than I like with not as much Ovaling but she sure cuts nice.. This axe also has some extra material for wear.. It will take about 10 to 15 resharpenings and then it will be it's correct shape.. As it is now it has a leading top cutting edge which works well.
  11. 2 points
    It was a little too hot to do any forging today but was a good day for checkering handles:
  12. 2 points
    I’m a little late to this but oh boy we have had a lot going on!! Because four out of the six in my family had a bad bout with pneumonia in February and March we decided to evacuate Ecuador and sit out the virus in rural Kentucky. So we put a garden in. We eat a lot of eggs so why not get a few chickens! Well buying chickens leads to needing a place to keep them so I built a chicken tractor. Also I have been working on furniture to make the house more comfortable. It helps when your dad has a pile of old barn wood!!
  13. 2 points
    Anyhow after finishing the rest of the bottle and halfway through the second one, this is the result. It all started from wanting a 10c rivet. I blame you all for fostering this obsession.
  14. 2 points
    I got my first real look at the pattern tonight. I decided to remove the ricasso from this one. I think it looks better without it. I'm still debating one what style of guard to give it. I have enough of the blade steel left to do either a guard or a butt cap. What do you think? Use it or make them from 416?
  15. 2 points
    So I know it’s been a couple of months but life has been crazy!! So I went with the Sil Fos and it has worked great!! Finally have the Dirk and scabbard all finished up!! Thank you for all your advice!! Aaron
  16. 2 points
    Forged my first knife in 10 years a couple weeks ago. Went well and started cleaning it up on my craftsman 2x42 grinder. I use this sander for all kinds of projects and it works well cleaning up cuts and rounding corners. For knives, it didn’t go well, so I moved into hardware mode. I made the tracking mechanism years ago, with the idea I could adjust the grinder to use various belt lengths. In this case I can go from 36” to 72” belts. Basically it is two wheel design with a 8” sunray contact wheel on the bottom, tracking on top and platen. I went with a 1hp iron horse motor and pulleys for speed adjustment. The frame is 8020 extruded aluminum that I got from a previous employer that shut down. So the only cost was the wheels, drive train and motor, also $20 in bolts and such. It is such a pleasure to use after the craftsman and works like a dream. It fits my present needs well, and if I dive deep into knife making, I can always make a more traditional 4 wheel model. The pictures below are the grinder, which I will probably make a table for. The tracking adjustment and set up with a 42” belt for giggles. Just want to show off, wife just doesn’t get it.
  17. 2 points
    Hi all, Just finished another lockdown project, only a small piece but the biggest blade I can currently heat treat and a milestone project for a noob like me! This is a late 15th/early 16th century messer. I've always liked the little Breughal inspired peasant knives that a few people have made replicas of, and also the Wakefield hangers, so smash those two designs together and you get this. The dates are of course a little out but not by much so hopefully It looks like something historically plausable. I don't know if there's some weird perspective thing or what going on but to me it definitely looks bigger in the pictures, this is only 43cm long, but I think that is about right for the sort of knife in the 'peasant wedding' painting. Certainly civilian rather than battlefield weapon. The blade for this is forged from 1075+cr, with a distal taper going from 6mm at the guard to 3mmish around the tip. The fuller was roughed in with an angle grinder and then filed in. Hours of fun. I like shiny knives so this has been mirror polished, though I know this is not to everyone's tastes and maybe not how a real one would have looked. The hilt fittings are mild steel, and the handle scales are walnut. The sheath is double layered with an integrated belt. I am mostly a leatherworker really and it's always fun going against all of my instincts to make something that looks medieval. Goodbye tracing paper and measuring tools, freehand it is. Anyway I hope you like it! I have a photo of 9 year old me at a reenactment event holding one of these and it's stuck with me since. 15 years later and I finally have my own, so quite a special project for me, and a nice big tick on the bucket list. Any comments or critiques welcome. Cheers! Alex
  18. 2 points
    A knife like that, well made, should easily be worth $300. Fwiw, I see a few small fit and finish issues, but I don't think you are far off of that value now. If this is your 6th knife, you should be able to ask more than that soon. $9/hr is not a living wage, but you will also get faster as you get better. Welcome to the knife maker's paradox. Most of us can't afford to buy what we make
  19. 2 points
    Boy oh.. so this one is an odd duck for me. The blade is leftover bits I had from other projects past (3" blade 7 1/4" overall). It's a four bar construction. The spine is wrought iron, the second bar is 1095 and 15N20, and the edge is 1084. The ferrule a sandwich of wrought iron and brass silver soldered. The handle is stabilized quilted maple. The sheath is hand stitched tooled (I'm still getting this down) veg tan leather. It was a fun knife to put together and I pushed every comfort zone I could on it. It's up on Etsy if anyone is interested. Thanks for looking!
  20. 2 points
    Low layer Damascus, vinegar etched, wired wheeled and buffed. Thanks for looking
  21. 2 points
    I started on the forge today but didn't last long as the summer heat & humidity convinced me to do other things. I opted for handle work and got my ivory handle cut out, slotted and one side checkered before calling it a day.
  22. 2 points
    Here's where I left this! Got some carving done today.
  23. 1 point
    Post up a photo of the broken axe if you can.. It might be repairable. Also if you don't mind me asking what were the weather conditions when it broke? Winter perhaps? I made this ax for heavy felling work.. With this said. the blade as explained before is designed for wear and the top, tip is always the wearing point with bad swings and such when a tree is on the ground and one is tired. This leading cutting edge is super handy for limbing as it gives just a little extra lead so leads to a slicing action. For overall size it's pretty light at only 3.75lbs head weight and is designed to be sharpened then redressed at least 2 times over it's life span.. Something which was not done that often since most would just buy a new ax or would get an older one resteeled. here you can see both the Hatchax and the Felling axe have a leading edge.. The ax head is mounted square to the handle so it is actually the cutting edge that is pulled forwards some. You can see the smaller Hatchax doe not have a leading edge any longer.. This hatchax is in need of a forge redress and heat treatment.
  24. 1 point
    @Garry Keown Definitely rest up friend. @Joshua States i noticed it would probably be good for something other than a blade. It is, parond my french..... a total B word to forge. I had it at a very iridescent yellow and it refused to move much using my 5lb maul. Good/bad i have alot of it though. 4+ at home and probably more than 100+ft at my dads. Which is free and accessible. Is it blade worthy or should i do something in particular with it other than punches or tooling?
  25. 1 point
    I love it when I learn something from someone's post.
  26. 1 point
    Seeing as you asked, I'm a fan of high contrast. So I would opt for a 416 Guard, backed by a PW spacer and crown that with a butt cap from the blade steel. If you can get one of those crosses onto the butt of the handle, that would seriously set this off. Oh and I would keep the cross theme going in the guard. double branch with crosses top and bottom.
  27. 1 point
    Heck, I look forward to any of Josh's blades. I'm acquiring a list of guy's who's shops I'd love to just sit in for a week and watch work. So much talent on this forum. I've got several knife forums I started watching when starting this journey and this one is the only one I've stuck with. You guys are "something" else!
  28. 1 point
    I'm no one to make any suggestions as to what you should do. But I do figure I've enough credibility to say that's one beautiful pattern you've got there. I'm enjoying this build. (oh, and I'm counting the days until the Hammer-in in September!)
  29. 1 point
    Forged this one up from an oversized horse rasp our farrier uses on the heavy horses. by no means fancy but will serve its purpose. With a long handle it will stay in my boat.....just in case!!
  30. 1 point
    Very cool stuff Rob. 6'-4""? I'm glad we are friends...….
  31. 1 point
    Very nice. It seems sockets are in now LOL
  32. 1 point
    I'm looking forward to seeing this one!
  33. 1 point
    Thanks fellas, I cut a good long solid shaft. I am 6’ 4” and the tip of the spear is the height of the top of my fingers when held straight up. Feels like a formidable weapon. Anyhow some more fun at the forge today playing with sockets. Harpoon head and boning knife. Boning knife heat treated but I have yet to do final grind and clean up.
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    Ok let's do this again. I had lost weight before from the mishap so I added a pound or so of W2. Calculating the estimated carbon of the puck and the new steel addition, the carbon was estimated to lower to a more workable 1.7ish. The new puck is 5 pounds. The surface I dendritic in places and the dirty ferric etch shows grain boundary cementite in most areas with pockets of heavier dendrites. I'm estimating carbon at 1.6-1.7% currently. It may change when I mix up some Nital again.
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    I've been working on other projects recently but got time to forge this blade this evening after work:
  38. 1 point
    Thanks Alan. She doesn’t quite get the award either. Haha. I shouldn’t say that, She IS very supportive of my hobbies and far better than I deserve.
  39. 1 point
    And he got it from Tai Goo, who in turn got it from some tribe in the Phillipines, who got it from somewhere in Indonesia/Maylaysia and so on... . A good idea is always good.
  40. 1 point
    I like this too. I am working on a socket harpoon head/ knife as we speak. Surprising how comfortable in the hand a socket handle is. James Helm worked this one out ages ago haha
  41. 1 point
    Thanks guys! You're too nice! I might be able to get started on the other side tomorrow or some over the weekend.
  42. 1 point
    I'll let the others comment on how stable the wood will be. However I just pm'd you about stabilizing. Hit me up if you want.
  43. 1 point
    Looking good, I find that sculpting dies like this are wonderful. They are sort of the same idea and are crowned on the edges of the dies so that they have an effect like the peen of a ball peen hammer. You can pull in almost any direction with them. One small suggestion, flatten out the tops of your fullers just a bit. As these two curved surfaces will tend to want to pass each other once struck. I don't know if I ever used a pair under a hammer that did not start to have the upper die bend away. If your not afraid of cutting the upper arm of the spring about half way, and just bolting the rest of the arm on with the die, I understand that its pretty easy to redress the dies over time. I haven't done this myself, but I did make a set of spring dies like this to be stuck at the anvil that are bolted at the half way point. If you chose to do that, it does seem to take heavier material. To use that spring at the anvil it takes at least a 3lb hammer to get them to do much, depending on stock size.
  44. 1 point
    That's a nice little EDC. I think you have a pretty good handle on the leather tooling. That one looks good anyway.
  45. 1 point
    Steak knife/paring knife in the works. I forged the bevels on this one and it looks good considering it’s my first time doing that. I didn’t have to grind very much either, they are very even. Oh and yes I will sand out those scratches.
  46. 1 point
    Thank you. Damascus steel fire strikers .
  47. 1 point
    5 of 6 are now done. One is on the injured/reserved list after a catastrophic bluing accident.
  48. 1 point
    Finished this today. 10.5 inch blade forged from a 7 layer billet of bandsaw blade, horseshoe rasp and center core of chainsaw bar that hardened nicely. Guard is a scrap of 300 layer, spacer blade material, and buttcap an endcut from a radial pattern billet I made forever ago. Handle African blackwood. Through tang construction with a nut welded underside the buttcap to squeeze it all together. Had to try fullers after seeing Jason Knight grind them into an apocalypse tanto in one of his recent youtube videos. Thanks for looking, Clint
  49. 1 point
    I was thinking that same thing Alan said. Probably a handy thing to have around on your photography sessions.
  50. 1 point
    Geoff is so right. I remember the first request I turned down. Way back, in the late 80's I had no interest in making a sword. My wife, at that time, worked with a couple of women who, with their husbands, we're members of the SCA. ( medieval recreators). One of the husbands got all excited when he found out I had made a couple of knives. He insisted on coming over to talk about his "project" he wanted. This guy was making about minimum wage but he wanted a sword. I had the Museum Replicas catalog and told him to show me what kind he wanted. He pawed throughout it and came up with a design. I asked him what he wanted that was different than the one in the catalog? "Nothing really, I just thought you could make it cheaper". The one he wanted was $120. I was still young enough to be a tad insulted. My response was. " So, you think that I can compete with the labor costs of a whole company that has its work done in India, by a group of people who each get paid less per day than you or I spend on lunch?"......... It went downhill from there. The fact was that, at knifemaking, I was greener than spring grass but I did have a smidgeon of business sense. I loved approval for my work whether knifemaking or remodeling houses but I had taken the time to think about what it would take and had decided that around $400 ( circa 1989) was going to be the starting point for "negotiations". I never regretted not taking that on despite the wife's later advice that it would be "A foot in the door" with that whole group. If I did the best I could for so cheap they would all expect me to keep working that cheap. A "door...to...hell" is what I told her it was. Uhm, yes, that is the real point that drives most of us....being good at it and getting better constantly. There is little point to doing it otherwise. I wouldn't want to do anything if I didn't feel I was good and getting better at it. Despite your best business efforts there are times when all you walk away with is lunch money and a warm fuzzy feeling. We all dream about the day we are "discovered" like teenagers with a garage band, but until that day we had better be doing it because we love it and we are improving our "chops" every time. I still have a Fender Strat and A Gibson SG along with a Crate tube amp. Never made a dime with them. Yes there are people who make pretty good money making swords, from time to time, on this forum but for everyone who manages to just break even there are lots who want to start out at that level and end up with a lot more "want" than cash to show. It reminds me of an old story I heard in business circles about a guy during the great depression. He was on the side walk with a small box of apples and a sign that read " apples, $50 ea." Someone ask him " do you sell many apples at that price?" The guy replied "At that price I don't have to". Not a Sterling business model though. Reality in knifemaking is somewhere around selling enough apples to recoup expenses and trying to make more than a McDonald's burger flipper. Just something to think about. A member here was nice enough to post pictures of a knife he owns. The work of that maker was one of the biggest incentives for me. That 'Smith didn't have much more in equipment back then than a lot of weekend hobbiests have today yet I am willing to bet if someone would do this kind of work they could sell knives well above the price of flat stock removal knives. All they would need is the will to develop the skill.
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